Day 172: Trail Angel in Gatlinburg, Tennessee

Start: Peck’s Corner Shelter (AT mi 218.2). Stop: Clingman’s Dome (AT mi 200). Today’s miles: 18.2 miles. Total AT mileage: 1993.1 miles.

I slept so good last night, at this campsite/shelter all alone. I was tucked in deep in my sleeping bag, and when my alarm on my watch started vibrating.. I quickly ignored it. I finally got up at 7:25, got out of my tent only long enough to pee and grab my food bag. I rushed to get back in the tent, back under my sleeping bag, for a few more minutes of warmth. I cooked my oatmeal and dumped in my packet of instant coffee. What a strange thing to love so much.

Eventually, I packed up and finally got hiking around 8:15, with the first half mile not counting towards my goal, since it was a side trail to the shelter. The views were beautiful from the very moment I started moving. It felt like I was walking along the thin spine of the mountains themselves, like each rock I stepped on was a vertebrae holding the mountains together. Each side of the trail had a sharp drop off.

I didn’t see a single soul on trail until I passed a sign for “Charlie’s Bunion”—6ish miles into the hike. And then they were everywhere! So many day hikers! It was overwhelming, and honestly, irritating. One guy made the comment, “you really need all that for a hike to Charlie’s Bunion?” Insert eye roll here. And then when I stopped to filter water at a piped spring crossing the trail, a lady whispered to her husband, “dear God, honey, she’s actually going to drink out of that thing..” Can I go back into the deep woods now?

About a mile before getting to Newfound Gap, SoFarSoGood came hiking my way. She met me on trail to do a little hiking with me! We got to the gap and I asked her if she’d be willing to drive me up the road to Clingman’s Dome, so I could hike back down to Newfound Gap. A friend of Tiedye’s offered to let me stay at his cabin tonight, in Gatlinburg, and it would be easier for him to get me from Newfound Gap or to hitchhike from there into Gatlinburg.. but not so easy from Clingman’s Dome.

She kindly drove me up the mountain and we talked the whole way. When she let me out at the top, I started hiking, and she drove down the mountain to a less crowded area to hike some more, too. I was going to go up to the observation deck at the top, but there were so many people absolutely everywhere, that the second I saw the sign for the AT I all but ran to it. I quickly got into the woods that surround the paved walkway to the top, and was back by myself. Not a single person was on the trails around the dome.. it was weird, but peaceful.

I started my descent back down to Newfound Gap. It was about 7 miles, mostly downhill-but there were a few little hills thrown in for good measure. When I crossed a boar bridge, I found a gift left for me by SoFarSoGood. She left me some hand warmers and an orange bandana-something I had been wanting, so hunters would be able to see me when I hike. It was so kind of her to leave me this present, in a spot she knew I’d be the only one (most likely anyway) to spot.
I made it to the gap parking lot just after 5pm.

Tiedye’s friend, Bill, asked if I could get a ride into town, and no worries if not, he was at a work commitment though, and it would take him a little bit before he could leave. So, I walked to the road and stuck my thumb out. It took about 10 minutes (an awkward 10 minutes, seeing how there were tons of people in this completely full parking lot). Then, a sweet couple in a Jeep Wrangler stopped for me. They were visiting the Smokies from Miami, to see the fall colors in the mountains.

We talked the whole way to Gatlinburg. Once we got to the first red light in town, I thanked them and hopped out of their Jeep. I called mom, to let her know I was staying in town, and then literally ran into Bill outside of the convention center in the middle of downtown. He was helping breakdown the craft show that had been going on in the convention center and still had an hour or so of work to do before he could leave. He let me put my pack inside, and while he went back to work, I walked around the corner to a BBQ place.

Y’all. I flat out demolished a pulled pork sandwich with coleslaw, baked beans, mac and cheese, AND an order of hush puppies. Oh, and a large sweet tea. It was just what I needed! While I was sitting there, a family came in and sat at the table near mine. They got me talking about the trail, asking the normal questions people ask hikers.. and being so excited knowing I only had 200 miles left of this thing, I was more than happy to chit chat and answer every question that came my way! They were so kind, asked if I needed anything, to resupply or if I was low on money. I declined, but thanked them for the sweet offer.

After we said our byes, I walked back over to the convention center and stretched a bit while I waited for Bill to finish up. When he did, we went back to his cabin in the Gatlinburg mountains.It was so delightful! And he had a hot tub, too! I was just too exhausted to take advantage of his offer to soak a bit. I did shower though, and enjoy a beer while we chatted about all things, like how he and TieDye met, their friendship and the crazy adventures they’ve been on together.. and he filled me in on the Braves!! I had no clue they were headed to the World Series! Bill pulled up some highlights for me. I’m thrilled!

Now, I’m laying in a comfortable bed, snuggled in with even more comfortable quilts. I’m so tired I’m struggling to get this written up. Looks like it’s bedtime for me. Sweet dreams!