Day 154: Slack Back to Lady Di’s

Start: Cross Mountain/TN 91 (AT mi 449.2). Stop: Damascus, Virginia (AT mi 470.7). Today’s miles: 21.5 miles. Total AT mileage: 1743.9 miles. States Completed: Maryland, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine, West Virginia, Virginia


I slept poorly, but I’m blaming it on room temperature more than anything. Everything else was comfortable, but man-I like to sleep with it cool. Oh well. It can’t always be perfect. In a month or so when this thing is finished, I can have my room temperature be what ever I so choose. Ha.


We all got up, got packed and downstairs for breakfast by 7:30. Lady Di made quiche, homemade blueberry scones, sausage patties, potatoes, and smoothies. It was really good and just what I needed to fuel me for the morning. By 8:15, Lone Wolf was there to pick us up and drive us to the road crossing we planned to hike back from. Once we all loaded up in his SUV, he took us 30 minutes south of Damascus.


We started our slack pack at 8:45, in Tennessee, and hiked northbound through cow pastures. The rain that had been dumping all night and most of the morning had ceased by the time we really got going. I think the fields are some of my favorite scenery, I don’t know if it’s because I know there will probably be animals or if it’s because it’s so open that I can see farther, but I really like it.


Once out of the pastures, it was back into uneventful woods. They were slick and wet, with multiple ups and downs, but the colors weren’t as vibrant as they had been in the Grayson Highlands. Instead of intense reds and bright yellows, the leaves were more muted browns and dull oranges. Still pretty, but not exciting to report on. Although, really, I feel like all of this sounds repetitive and mundane for you readers. I’m shocked y’all are still around!


I did get to pass quite a few recent friends.. Zebra, Smash, and MashedPotato were the first people I saw, a bit spaced out from each other. I was happy Lizard was hiking with me each time we passed one of them, because I got to introduce her to them. No one else probably cared, but I had talked to them about trying to catch her, and I’ve told her stories about them.. Zebra told me about their plan to be at a certain hostel/brewery on Friday and that they’re doing karaoke there. I let her know that I definitely wouldn’t be that far by Friday, but since my mom is coming to visit, maybe she’d want to go to karaoke, too, and therefore be able to drive there (and probably Lizard and Finch, too, if they want to go). This suddenly got me very excited!


Lizard and I ate lunch at a shelter with some day hikers. I recently started eating cheese and hard salami on a bagel with spicy mustard. So far, I’m not sick of that yet. I wonder how long it’ll last. We talked with them while eating and answered all the typical questions about thruhiking. This area we’re slack packing is also an “aggressive bear” area.. 3 shelters in this stretch are technically closed, as well as the campsites between the shelters, because of recent aggressive bears coming to steal food. This was the main reason for wanting to slack pack through here, to make sure we’re safely out of this area before needing to camp. It just made sense. And the fact that northbound is mostly downhill compared to the mostly uphill of southbound through this section only helped solidify the choice to not carry a full pack out of Damascus.


I got ahead of Lizard after lunch. I passed PinePole and then Bones, too. Sometime around 3, I crossed the state line for Virginia and Tennessee. Since I was hiking northbound, I couldn’t claim to be done with Virginia until I hit the downtown Dollar General I got my drinks at yesterday. I was happy as hell when I did about an hour after crossing paths with that sign! I even went inside and bought a Gatorade to drink during the short walk back to Lady Di’s place.

Immediately after walking in the door, I grabbed what I needed and hopped in the shower. I used the other shower in the house, continuing my tradition of trying each shower in a hostel if I stay more than one night. I liked this one better than the one yesterday, although it didn’t have a window so it got hot in there. When I was clean, dressed and organized, I walked outside to sit on the porch. Lizard was already there!


When she went inside to shower, she ended up finding a dress in the loaner clothes. I said I wanted to wear a dress too, so we got to searching for another one.. and actually found one! So we both wore dresses to dinner, which I wished we would have done yesterday, too! Lol it would have felt nice to look semi presentable (I still had crocks on and the dress was ill fitting, Lizard’s looked adorable on her). Oh well.


I ended up walking to subway while she showered and then met Lizard and Finch at the diner in town once I had my lunch for tomorrow secured in my little day pack. It was a busy little restaurant. We sat outside at the sidewalk table. I ended up ordering the bbq platter, and was sadly underwhelmed by it.. but I ate it all anyway. This hiker hunger is no joke! I managed to eat all of the pulled pork, collards, corn, and baked beans! It’s going to be difficult to not eat like that when this is over.


The three of us walked back to the B&B together. I sat on the porch a little while, waiting for an appropriate time to get in bed. I didn’t want to lay down too early and be too awake.. we got 2 more roommates in our room tonight, so all 5 beds are taken. The room was hot and stuffy and the fan was over the window of the guy in the middle bed, and he had turned it off and was already asleep when I got up here. Dear God. It’s going to be a long night. More than just the stuffiness, I hate the quiet of the room.. no air circulating means hearing every little noise anyone or I make. Ugh.


Let’s pray this night goes by fast! One can only hope. Sweet dreams, y’all.

Day 155: Boots Off Hostel

Start: Cross Mountain/TN 91 (AT mi 449.2). Stop: Boots Off Hostel (AT mi 428.4). Today’s miles: 20.8 miles. Total AT mileage: 1764.7 miles.


I knew last night was going to suck, and boy did it. It was hot and eerily quiet except for other people breathing and occasionally snoring. I think I’m missing sleeping outside in my tent. Sadly, tonight I’m going to another hostel, and it’s been pouring rain all night again, so I have at least one more night in a bunk room.. then a couple nights with my mom (which I’m really looking forward to), and then maybe by Sunday night I can be in my tent.


Much like yesterday, everyone was up and at breakfast by 7:30. Lady Di outdid herself by making French toast casserole with baked apple slices, plus quiche, bacon, fresh orange juice and coffee. I had seconds on the French toast casserole. I don’t think I’ve ever had that before, and.. just.. wow. I’m in love! She also freshly baked from scratch the sourdough bread she put in it. I’m blown away by her culinary skills.


Sam picked us up this morning, instead of Lone Wolf, although I did get to see him, too! There were two other hikers getting shuttled elsewhere this morning, so both drivers came for us all about the same time. I liked Sam. He seems like a good natured country guy, living off the grid in a home he built. He rides his Harley and hangs out at his house when he’s not helping Lone Wolf shuttle around hikers and cyclists. His grandkids call him Papaw, and honestly, I just liked hearing him talk.

He dropped us off at the same spot we went to yesterday morning. The difference today, is that it was still dumping buckets this morning and it didn’t let up until after 11am. I started off in my rain jacket and with my umbrella hooked in on my chest strap. It was nice to have the water off my face, but that’s about all it kept semi dry. The trail immediately went into the woods and was a complete river from the downpours. At first I attempted to side step the deep water, then I realized it was pointless and just started sloshing through.


Finch and I leapfrogged a bit early in the day, and then Lizard and I caught each other around lunch time. We didn’t end up eating together though.I ate sitting on a rock because I couldn’t wait the extra mile to get to the shelter. When I got to the shelter she had just caught me, but hadn’t eaten yet. I considered stopping with her anyway, but my feet were so soaked and all I could think about was getting to the hostel and taking these wet socks off. My toes were feeling like prunes, and each step was starting to feel real tender.

I pushed on and had several minor ups and downs. I at some point took off my jacket and took down the umbrella, probably well before lunch, but I don’t remember exactly when. I had great views from the woods of Watauga Lake. This is the lake mom and I have a cabin on for the weekend! Since I’m getting to the hostel a day earlier than planned, I’m going to slack pack back to Boots Off tomorrow and get picked up from there when mom gets in town. I figured it would be silly to waste a day on her driving in since I wouldn’t get to spend any extra time with her.. and I don’t really need the double zero. I’m thrilled that this lake is so beautiful and that I happen to be at such a scenic spot when she could come to visit. It’s perfect!


I walked over the dam, which had amazing views, and then around the perimeter of the lake. Eventually it brought me to a road crossing and then up a driveway to Boots Off Hostel and Campground. It’s such a nice place! They have separate buildings for the bunkhouse, bathhouse, bathrooms, main hangout area with tables, chairs, picnic tables, a little store for drinks and light resupply..


I checked in, ate 2 donuts and drank a soda. I don’t know what came over me, but I was starved even though I ate a Subway sandwich AND chips for lunch! Ridiculous, really. The guy showed me around. Once I picked a bottom bunk, I unpacked and went to shower. It’s an outdoor shower with a bucket shower head that made a rainwater feel to it. It was pretty cool. I realized in the shower that my hips were rubbed raw from the rain today, and my goodness it burned like crazy in the water. I’m hoping it all clears up soon.. the slack pack tomorrow will help and the zero the following day will be even more beneficial.


I talked to mom a little today, since I finally had some decent service. I think I have her excited about the Karaoke place for tomorrow night.. I mentioned maybe being able to pick up a few friends, too, and she seems ok with that! It sounds like it would be so fun! Like a mini hiker reunion.

Anywho, Lizard arrived shortly after, and once she was settled in a bit, the guy from upfront drove us plus 2 other guys into town. I got another sub sandwich for lunch tomorrow, and then McDonald’s for dinner. Not my first choice, but I won’t lie-I enjoyed the hell out of that Big Mac meal.


When we arrived back at the hostel, Finch was there! He didn’t want us to get him anything from the stores we went to, so he did his own thing for dinner. He played a little guitar down at the main house, and he’s really good. I’m always fascinated by the musically inclined. I want to be able to play an instrument well, but I don’t have the patience to learn it. Im sure I could, but I think I prefer to stay fascinated by the others that play in front of me instead.


It’s almost 10pm and Im in my bunk, praying for better sleeping temperatures. It was perfect, until the other person (none of the 3 of us) came in and turned the heater on. Lord have mercy. I really need to quit staying in so many hostels. I enjoy them and I despise the shared sleeping space and lack of control. All in due time. I’m sure I’ll miss this someday.


Anyway, I think I’m off to sleep before I realize I’m hot! I get to slack pack 23 miles tomorrow and then SEE MY MAMA! I’m so excited 🙂 Goodnight yall!

Day 156: Surprises & Karaoke

Start: Walnut Mountain Road (AT mi 405.8). Stop: Boots Off Hostel (AT mi 428.4). Today’s miles: 22.6 miles. Total AT mileage: 1787.3 miles.


Today was tough. Even for a slack pack. I think I was in a foul mood to start with, since I didn’t sleep very well. By midnight I was down to my undies in my little bunk (thank God each bunk had its own privacy curtains) because I was so flippin hot! When I decided to put a shirt on to go to the bathroom, I also decided I was turning that dang heater down too. The man that turned it on in the first place set it to 76 degrees. SEVENTY-SIX. Y’all, the only way the thermostat at home hits 76 is if it’s broken.. I promptly dropped it to 72, still way too hot for my preference, but would hopefully be more manageable than the sauna I was baking in.


I did eventually drift off to sleep after that.. but it wasn’t very restful. When 7 am rolled around I was cranky and didn’t want to get up to get ready for the long day ahead. I did though, knowing that my mom would be getting here when I got done. I packed my stuff up into 2 packs, my day pack stuff and then everything else in my regular pack that I was leaving at the hostel. I wasn’t going to sleep at the hostel, so I didn’t want to take up a bunk or leave my stuff laid out to get moved around while I was gone.


I ate “breakfast” aka: 2 donuts and a banana.. and got ready to leave by 7:45 with another hiker. He got dropped off before me, and at 8:30 I was starting my almost 23 miles back to the hostel. I don’t know if it was my irritation or the actual trail, but it felt tougher today. My legs were tired and it felt more uphill than the elevation profile showed it to be. My hips are also rashy and raw from the rain yesterday chaffing them, so they would randomly sting if a scab opened any. It did make me happy to slack pack instead of hike out with my full pack today.

Home is getting SO CLOSE


It had rained overnight and some this morning, but it wasn’t raining when I got moving.. it was pretty saturated though, making some steps a bit slippery. Even still, I kept an ok pace. I’m still shocked I was able to do that 27 mile day recently, because today took longer than that to complete, and today was significantly shorter. Every little thing matters.. and my body is clearly telling me I need a zero. Luckily, I’d be doing that tomorrow with my mom!

Hardcore Cascades


I had some pretty scenery, mostly damp leaves and a few flowing creeks. I passed the Hardcore Cascades and the Laurel Fork Falls, which were stunning. Right after Laurel Fork Falls I had a gorgeous walk by the creek the falls created, rocky but beautiful.. followed by the climb up 1700 ish foot of elevation gain to the top of the Pond Mountain Wilderness, and then back down the other side. It did have switchbacks, for which I was eternally grateful.


I made it back to Boots Off sometime after 5pm-probably closer to 6, with the sky dumping rain the last 20 or 30 minutes of my hike. I organized my things and then showered quickly, so I’d be ready when mom showed up. She was originally thinking she’d be there to get me by 6pm, but then she hit quite a bit of rain on the way up, slowing her progress. Now it was looking closer to 7pm before she’d get there, it was already pouring and starting to get dark. I was hungry, but mom had agreed to Karaoke, so I knew we’d be heading to dinner soon enough.


Lizard and I hung out while I waited for mom and Lizard waited for her pizza. She had decided she would pass on Karaoke since it was a 25 minute drive, it was already getting late, and she had to hike out in the morning. I completed understood her reservations.. being without a car and far from “home” for the night is stressful and she’d have probably gotten back pretty late, especially by hiker standards.


Around 7, I saw a familiar SUV drive up the driveway and start the process of turning around.. I wasn’t completely sure if that was who I thought it was or if it was Lizard’s pizza, but in my excitement I ran out to the driveway anyway! Turns out, my mom surprised me by coming with my Aunt Kathy and Uncle Keith!! AND it was Aunt Kathy’s birthday!! I was SHOCKED! She and I had recently been texting and I had no clue she was on her way to see me! What a happy happy day this turned out to be!


I introduced Lizard to my family after I gave hugs all around. Finally after a little chit chatting, I put my stuff in the SUV and we said our byes to Lizard to head to Karaoke. I wasn’t sure that they’d be interested, I wasn’t even sure if mom had told them about it.. but she had and they all wanted to go! It ended up being an absolute blast! The Station at 19E was a bar, restaurant, and hostel just outside of Roan, Tennessee. It had an old honky tonk feel to it. Inside, after we ordered our food and we found a high top bar to sit at, I went and said hi to Zebra, Smash, and MashedPotato.. Sunshine was onstage singing when we came in!

Laurel Fork Falls


Everyone met my family, we ate our food while my friends and the locals all took turns singing on stage.. it was fantastic! There was also a Great Dane doggo that I harassed a bit, too. I couldn’t help myself, he was too big to not hug.. and I swear he liked it. Mom fed him some chicken (after getting permission) and he stayed around quite a bit after that. Bribery at its finest.

Sunshine singing, Zebra to the left


I didn’t do any singing on stage, but I did get on the dance floor and cut loose with my friends. It was hysterical and so so much fun. Looking over and seeing my mom, aunt, and uncle smiling and singing along just made it that much more incredible. We all even ended up singing happy birthday to Aunt Kathy (and apparently to the other 2 birthday people there..). I hope they all had as much fun as I did.. because it probably was one of the most fun nights on trail. Definitely one for the books!

Poor pup


When we finally left, I was a bit tipsy and I’m pretty sure I talked and giggled the whole way to our cabins. We told Uncle Keith the wrong entrance and he almost drove up a golf cart path.. along the lake.. I found it hysterical, I’m pretty sure he found it less so. Eventually we located the correct place that housed our keys, and then we found the actual appropriate cabins..


We unloaded our stuff and within minutes of walking in the door, I was asleep on the fold out couch. Haha, play hard sleep hard I guess! I finally got good, cool sleep! And, better yet, my 3 favorite people are with me! Life is good.