Day 157: The Best Zero

I woke up just after 8am feeling refreshed and well rested. Mom and I got ready and met Uncle Keith and Aunt Kathy across the way at their cabin to go to breakfast. Their cabin had the best views of Lake Watauga.. the mountains jutting up around the crystal blue water with trees dazzling us with all of their fall colors. Our cabin had views of the houseboats on the marina, beautiful in their own way.. like the painted ladies of the lake.


We all piled into the SUV and Uncle Keith drove us to the only restaurant that seemed to be open in the tiny town of Hampton, Tennessee. It was named “Amber’s Country Cooking” and it was exactly that-perfectly made country breakfasts with portions bigger than our heads! I actually couldn’t eat all my food this time.. I don’t know if my body realized we weren’t hiking today or if it truly was just that much food. Either way, it was very good! Biscuits and gravy, fried eggs, hash browns, bacon, cheese grits, and a huge glass of orange juice. Whew buddy!


After breakfast, we drove into Elizabethon right on the outskirts of Johnson City and found an actual Ingles grocery store for me to resupply at. It was nice to have so many options without the crowded chaos of Walmart. While this was a chore I didn’t want to have to do, it had to be done and the vehicle made it so much easier!
When we left the grocery store we headed back towards Hampton and followed the signs through the countryside to the Wilber and Watauga dams.. I crossed the Watauga dam on the way into Boots Off 2 days ago and I knew it was gorgeous, so I was excited to see the signs and to know it’s apparently easy to drive to so they could see it’s beauty in person, too.


The countryside was just as stunning as the dams themselves. The mountains speckled with farmhouses and barns, cows and Christmas tree farms. The water only added to the magic of it all. Such a simpler life out here, away from all the cars and city life. We stopped at the top of the Wilber dam first.. the water being clear in some spots all the way to the bottom. When we got to close to the Watauga dam we had to park and walk.. and ended up connecting with the AT and walking the exact part of the trail I had. It was surreal to have my favorite people there, literally walking in my footsteps.


We took the hike down to the waterway and over the dam, enjoying the breeze and dreading the return up the hill we just hiked down. I showed Aunt Kathy the app FarOut introduced me to, Seek, that allows you to point your camera at just about anything in nature-animals and insects along with plants, trees, and flowers, and it will tell you what it is. We took pictures and simply enjoyed each other’s company.


I’ve known that I miss my family, I’ve known that I love being around them-but being with them today has made me want to hurry home even more than I already have.. it’s a strange feeling, to absolutely love the challenge I’m in, love the serenity of the trail, the people I encounter, meet, become friends with, and then to also be day dreaming about life after the trail already, about being finished.. so I can be around my family and friends and see and do the things I’ve missed. I don’t want to come across as unsatisfied or unhappy, because I’m far from both of those things-but I miss my people a whole lot.


Anyway-we hiked back to the car and then drove back down the mountain. Back at Wilber Dam, mom noticed a side road that went down to access the water. We decided to go that way and explore the creek. Water was spilling through the “overflow” thing-mom knew that’s what it was-and as we were exploring and using Seek to identify the wildflowers, the generators turned on and released some water, making the creek quickly rise within minutes. One second my foot was on dry creek bed, the next my pantslegs we’re getting soaked! It wasn’t the lift of a gate and a flood of water like I was imagining, but still pretty dang cool.


We left there and did some site seeing around the creek and the pastures nearby, fantasizing about owning land on the water with a cute little cabin or a even a hostel somewhere. When we started getting hungry for lunch, we went back into town and got Zaxbys-and took it to go eat at a picnic table in a park we had passed. Laughing and talking non stop, we ate and people watched and loved life. The sun was shining, the wind was blowing lazily, the skies were perfectly blue. I couldn’t have been happier.


We eventually made our way back to the cabins and explored around there.. down to the docks on the lake, over to the marina side, to a bench with a view. We ended on Uncle Keith and Aunt Kathys cabin porch, never quite catching up with all we had to talk about. This day couldn’t have turned out to be more perfect.


I got a call from Poptart around 4:30. I was expecting her call, knowing that if I missed her today, I’d miss her completely. When I started southbound from Harper’s Ferry, she started northbound from Springer Mountain in Georgia. We knew we’d eventually cross paths, but had we not been in contact, she’d have passed me while I was zeroing today! So, we made a plan to get dinner together tonight, as long as my family didn’t mind-which of course they didn’t!


Uncle Keith and I picked her up from the Dollar General in town that she walked to from the trail.. crazy girl could have called sooner and we’d have happily picked her up from the trailhead. I was so happy to see her! We hugged before getting all her goodies in the trunk. Because she was staying at Boots Off hostel, we stopped by there to let her check in and set her stuff up so her laundry would be done by the time she got back and her spot claimed since it would be dark after dinner.

We got back to the cabins and I introduced her to mom and Aunt Kathy, then she finally got to go shower-with moms nice toiletry stuff brought from home. While she showered, I painted my toenails while sitting on the porch of Uncle Keith and Aunt Kathys cabin talking with them and mom. I’m shocked we were still yammering on so much, not even so much as a pause in our chatter. When Poptart got finished, she joined us. She fit right in! There’s never a dull moment with this family.


We decided on Mexican for dinner, and loaded up to head back into the bigger city, as absolutely everything in Hampton was closed. The restaurant was the size of a football field, I’m pretty sure it used to be a Kmart or something.. it was ginormous! We all enjoyed our food, especially the cheese dip-the margaritas were subpar but it didn’t matter. Stuffed and wobbling out, we made our way back to Boots Off to drop off Poptart and then head home. We spent even more time on that porch before going to bed.

When mom and I finally did go to our cabin and get ready for bed, all I could think about is how I don’t want this to end. I don’t want it to already be the end of the night and time to sleep. But sadly, it is. We were all worn out from our sightseeing, good food, laughing and fun. I’m laying here now and mom is already sound asleep and my eyelids are drooping, but I miss them all and this family time so much already. I have a feeling tomorrow is going to be a tough one for me.. but this day has truly been incredible.


Sweet dreams.

Day 158: Mountain Harbour

Start: Walnut Mountain Road (AT mi 405.8). Stop: Mountain Harbour B&B (AT mi 395.3). Today’s miles: 10.5 miles. Total AT mileage: 1797.8 miles.


I slept so good! It was just after 8 when I got up and hopped in the shower.. mom had just started stirring. By the time I was out, she was almost ready and had her coffee made. Minutes later we were walking over to Uncle Keith and Aunt Kathy’s cabin. They were already up, ready, and watching the mist evaporate off of the water on the lake. It really was gorgeous out there.


We went back to the restaurant from yesterday and changed up our orders. Man, it was just as good as it was the day before, if not better. I got bacon, egg, and cheese biscuit, plus 3 pancakes. I ate all but just a few bites. So so yummy. After eating, we headed back to the cabins so we could all pack up. Mom brought me my warmer sleeping bag, and it absolutely sucks that it takes up so much space in the bottom of my pack. I end up having to cram everything else in where it’s supposed to fit easily.. now it bulges at the top. I also sent some stuff home with mom that I haven’t needed and random things I’ve collected over the last month that I want to keep but don’t want to tote.


Once the SUV was loaded down with all of our things, Uncle Keith started the 30 minute drive to the gravel road in the mountains to drop me off, Aunt Kathy riding shotgun and mom sitting beside me. I caught myself getting increasingly sad as we drove. Then, they joked that they could just drive home with me in the car, since I had all my belongings with me-but as nice as it sounded, I knew I’d never forgive myself if I bailed this close to finishing this accomplishment. The idea of it did sound way too enticing!


When we pulled up to the AT crossing on Walnut Mountain Road, Finch was sitting there eating a snack. It worked perfectly to ease moms eeriness of me walking off into the woods alone, never mind the fact that I’ve been doing it for more than 5 months now. I introduced him to everyone and then set to telling them each bye with hugs all around. The one thing making me smile was knowing the next time I’d see them, I should be crossing under the arch at Amicalola State Park. For now, that will have to do, and it’ll motivate me to get my butt there.. sooner rather than later.

Jones falls

I waved bye again, then I followed after Finch, letting him stay ahead since he’d already been hiking a few hours by now. He was all warmed up, I was most definitely not. I ended up turning on an audiobook and cruised along. Around 3pm, I stopped at a road crossing and ate my lunch.. more out of not wanting to carry the weight of it any longer than hunger.

I passed a waterfall and some pretty creeks, then
I eventually made it to Mountain Harbour B&B. I checked in, got a beer and a Mountain Dew, then went to set up my tent along the creek that runs through the property. Once unpacked, I headed back to the main building, got another beer and ordered dinner: Philly cheesesteak sandwich with parmesan fries. Lizard and Finch ended up camping, too. The creek makes for a pretty backdrop to camp next to. While we all ate dinner, along with Roundhouse, a hiker we’ve previously split a shuttle with out of Damascus to slack pack.. the 4 of us decided to slack pack tomorrow, after the huge breakfast they serve here..


I’m looking forward to that breakfast in the morning. It’s apparently AT award worthy, the best breakfast on the trail. I’m ready to test that for myself! I’m worried I won’t fall asleep easy tonight, since I drank that Mountain Dew so late. I’m going to give it my best effort anyway.. so, goodnight, y’all!

Day 159: Roan Highlands SlackPack

Start: Hughes Gap Road (374.1). Stop: Mountain Harbour B&B (AT mi 395.3). Today’s miles: 21.2 miles. Total AT mileage: 1819 miles.


Today was incredible in all ways it could be. Incredibly gorgeous views, incredibly long climbs in the morning, incredibly tired body at the end of it. I loved every moment of it though.


I didn’t sleep well, I’m blaming the Mountain Dew I drank yesterday when I got here.. but I was wide awake for a large portion of the night. Try as I might to sleep, I lay there with my eyes closed and mind going a mile a minute. I even made a “rough” plan for the rest of the hike, which is absolutely unrealistic-but it gives me something to plan better off of. I finally dosed off sometime after 1am, after my 3rd or 4th bathroom break. Sheesh.

7:20am came real fast and I forced myself to get up and pack for the slack pack. I didn’t have to pack up my sleep stuff or tent, since I’d be back here tonight, but I had to make sure I did pack everything I’d need for the day: water, filter, jacket, food and snacks.. earphones and the Garmin Inreach. Before I knew it, it was almost 8am and I walked up the hill to the main house where they serve breakfast.


Now I know what all the fuss is about. Holy macaroni-these people made a SPREAD! Biscuits and gravy, 5 cheese and egg casserole, French toast with several homemade jams to go on top, including one with honey and pecans, tomato pie, some other kind of casserole I can’t remember, bagels with chive cream cheese, a lemon strudel (homemade that morning), yogurt with granola, muffins, potatoes, and more things I can’t recall at the moment.. along with coffee and an entire bar of different creamers, sweeteners, syrups to put in it.. orange and apple juice.


After eating enough to feed a small country, we all reconvened down at the other building to get ready for the shuttle. There were tons of other people here, going for section hikes, day hikes, trail maintenance.. eventually the 4 of us loaded into an SUV and began the journey to Hugh’s Gap. Once out and on our way, we had a 4+ mile uphill climb to the top of Roan Mountain. From there it would be steady ups and downs from one mountain bald to the next with stunning views of the Roan Highlands.


I saw Bones, Zebra, and Smash early in the climb, they were all headed the opposite direction, staying a day ahead of me. Maybe I’ll catch them before Lauren’s bachelorette weekend, but probably not. I even saw Wobby at a campsite half way up Roan Mountain, it was good to see her again, it’s been since Waynesboro! The rest of the way up transformed from regular woods to moss covered ground and some rocky spots. It felt like I was transported back to Vermont at times. I was loving the switchbacks, too. They made what was still a difficult climb more bearable.


I ended up going up and over Roan Mountain, Round Bald, Grassy Ridge Bald, Jane Bald, Little Hump Mountain, and finally, Hump Mountain. The last two lacked switchbacks and were steep, calf crushing climbs. The views from all of these climbs were just breathtaking though. Miles and miles of mountains and vistas off in the distance and right in front of you. The pops of color demanding your eye’s attention. It was almost as majestic as the Grayson Highlands form me.. with both of these locations being in my top 5 for the whole trail. I was mesmerized.


I ate lunch around 3, sitting on a rock on one of the balds. It took this long to get hungry after that huge breakfast! It was quick, knowing the longer I sat the more likely I’d be getting back after sunset. From here, the trail got very muddy on its descent, right up until the climb of the next bald. So muddy that I almost gave up attempting to keep the tops of my shoes from being submerged. Thankfully, they never quite went all the way under the muck. They did come very close though.


All day today the trail wound across the border of Tennessee and North Carolina. I never knew when I was in which state. The trail will continue to zig zag over the border for about 95 more miles, before staying in North Carolina for good. I think it’s pretty neat that the trail is able to ride the border line as long as it does. There was a sign while hiking down Hump Mountain that confirmed I was back in Tennessee for the night.

Once I got to the hostel, sometime just after 6pm, I quickly took my stuff to my tent, reattached my hiking pole to the tent so it would be standing again, and not the dilapidated mess I left this morning, used the bathroom, put my crocs on, and then got 3 beers from the general store at the hostel. I walked back up to the trail crossing and sat on a rock to wait for Lizard and Finch. I knew today was hard on me, I figured it was hard on them, too.. and, honestly, I didn’t want Lizard walking down a busy highway in the dark alone. Two headlamps stand to be seen better by drivers compared to one.. in my opinion anyway.


Finch came up first, after only 5-10 minutes of me sitting there sipping my beer. He sat to rest a minute and sip his. Within only a couple minutes, Lizard came walking up the trail! They were so close for a good bit of the afternoon and didn’t even know it! Lizard happily took her beer, too.

Once they caught their breath, we all three headed back to the hostel. They each did their required “chores” before we all met at the food truck and general store to order dinner. I went with a bacon cheeseburger and fries today. Even better than the philly, if you can believe it. Roundhouse joined us, too. He’s also from Georgia and works at a garden nursery, I think after all of this is done, me and aunt Kathy may go visit him.. she has a green thumb and always keeps her yard beautiful, and mine, too.


We hung out, chatted, and slowly one by one we peeled away to retreat to our tents, hammock, or bunk. I laid in bed only a short while before passing out attempting to write this.. apparently not sleeping well the night before plus a 21 mile day really takes it out of ya! Lol whoops!