Month: October 2021

Start: Davenport Gap Shelter (AT mi 238). Stop: Peck’s Corner Shelter (AT mi 218.2). Today’s miles: 19.8 miles. Total AT mileage: 1974.9 miles.

I’m pretty sure I pissed everyone off this morning when I decided to get up. I wasnt the first one awake, as I woke up to hearing several people toss and turn around 6:45. I decided before they all fell back to sleep, I’d get up, use the bathroom, and then take my stuff outside of the shelter to pack.. an attempt to not be “as loud” packing since there’s really no way to avoid it.

When I got out of my sleeping bag, it was cold. And then I couldn’t easily open the fencing gate that locked us in this shelter and kept the bears out.. so, that endeavor was noisier than expected. Whoops. After all my racket, the others that were awake but trying not to be all decided to pee too, 3 men.. ha. Once I handled my business, I took my pack outside by the fire ring, then swiftly rolled my sleeping bag and mattress in my ground tarp and took it all outside to pack it into my pack with a bit more space. I circled back inside and snagged my water, shoes, and trekking pole, and was thankful I didn’t forget anything and didn’t have to use my headlamp but for one quick sweep of the space I was leaving empty.. just to make sure.

I said bye to the man that was outside making his coffee now, the dad to the little boy still sleeping inside.. and then headed up the hill with my red light on. It was only 7:15! I didn’t eat yet, or brush my teeth. I decided that I was too cold and wanted to keep moving for now, but I did pack some snacks in my hip belt. When I made it to the main trail, I switched my headlamp to a brighter light and after about 10-15 minutes of hiking slowly uphill, I grabbed my first snack and went to town eating while I hiked.

I finished everything I had packed, deciding this was better for today than sitting around freezing while eating my oatmeal. Then, to my surprise I was able to snag my tooth brush and toothpaste from the brain of my pack while walking-so I brushed my teeth while hiking and didn’t even have to take my pack off. Nice! I didn’t have service to figure out the temperature, but I was guessing it to be in the 40s. I never warmed up while hiking uphill-don’t get me wrong, I was sweating like I always do, but it was cold enough outside that the sweat immediately made me cold. So, at some point when I realized I wouldn’t be warming up any time soon, I stopped to put on my rain pants and jacket-and to put away the headlamp. The sun was creeping up in the far off distance, unseen and unfelt thanks to the mountains and trees blocking its warmth-but the sky was light enough to see without the headlamp on.

I didn’t pass anyone on trail until sometime after 9am, when I was coming down Mt Cammerer. And once I passed one person, I must have passed 50. There were SO MANY people out day hiking to the fire tower I had graciously walked right on by. It was 0.6 miles down a side trail, and I didn’t want any part of it. Plus, I had my own gorgeous views from a rock jutting out along the side of the mountain, clearing out the tree coverage where it stood. I climbed up and caught some stunning color popping out of the mountainsides around me. It seemed good enough to not hike an extra mile that wouldn’t get me anywhere closer to my destination.

It was smooth sailing down hill, even while avoiding and pausing for all of the people coming the opposite way. Then, I realized I was on what appeared to be ridgeline, still ascending and descending often, but not for nearly as long as I had climbed this morning. The views were just gorgeous. The tops of the climbs would have moss covering the ground, trees, and rocks. As I’d descent, the moss would disappear, only to reappear when I climbed up again.

I ended up stopping to chat with several different hikers that asked about my journey. One man said he had made his attempt this year and didn’t make it, so he was proud of me for sticking to it and getting it done. I’m close to hitting the two thousand mile mark! And when I do, I’ll officially be considered a thru hiker, not just someone attempting a thru hike. Man, it feels so surreal.

I ate my lunch sitting on a log along the side of the trail during one of my many climbs of the day. I was finally warm enough to take off the rain pants, but the jacket stayed on all day, and the gloves came and went many many times. I was hardly sitting for 15 minutes when I finished eating and was too cold to “relax” there anymore. I was actually grateful that I stopped in the middle of a climb so I’d have something to get my blood pumping again right away.

It continued on like this all day, up and down and little clips of mountains upon mountains through the wooded tree line I was walking along. I finally made it to the shelter I was aiming for at 5pm, shockingly earlier than I thought.. which made me really appreciate the fact that I got up and moving this morning when I did. Because of that success, I’ll be attempting the same thing tomorrow, except I’ll definitely be eating my oatmeal in my tent..

The shelter itself smells like charred wood, so I was happy to find a flat spot up the hill away from the shelter to set up my tent. I unpacked and headed back down to the shelter with my food bag, left it there while I went even farther downhill to collect my water to filter. I didn’t want to, but I did end up eating at the shelter, sitting on one of the little wooden benches. That charred wood smell gets to me sometimes, and it was super strong in there, but I didn’t want to eat any closer to my tent and potentially attract animals.

After water was filtered and dinner eaten (a chicken and dumplings mountain house meal), I hung my food bag on the provided bear cables, made a bathroom run, and then came and got in my tent. It’s almost 7:15 now, the sun is mostly gone although it’s not pitch black yet, and I’ve got my sleeping bag open like a quilt and covering me completely, head and all, so my hands can stay warm while I type this up. It’s pretty cold again tonight, which I knew it would be, and I’m thankful for this 2 pound sleeping bag I complain about carrying. Lol

I might try to read a bit before falling asleep, since it’s so early. I’m hoping I pass out quick so that I won’t be so shocked when my watch vibrates in the morning to wake me up. I wonder how this trip would go if I didn’t use an alarm at all.. I’m pretty sure I’d be sleeping until 10 or 11 everyday-and still be back in Virginia. Hahaha.. ok, that’s enough of that-goodnight y’all.

Start: Peck’s Corner Shelter (AT mi 218.2). Stop: Clingman’s Dome (AT mi 200). Today’s miles: 18.2 miles. Total AT mileage: 1993.1 miles.

I slept so good last night, at this campsite/shelter all alone. I was tucked in deep in my sleeping bag, and when my alarm on my watch started vibrating.. I quickly ignored it. I finally got up at 7:25, got out of my tent only long enough to pee and grab my food bag. I rushed to get back in the tent, back under my sleeping bag, for a few more minutes of warmth. I cooked my oatmeal and dumped in my packet of instant coffee. What a strange thing to love so much.

Eventually, I packed up and finally got hiking around 8:15, with the first half mile not counting towards my goal, since it was a side trail to the shelter. The views were beautiful from the very moment I started moving. It felt like I was walking along the thin spine of the mountains themselves, like each rock I stepped on was a vertebrae holding the mountains together. Each side of the trail had a sharp drop off.

I didn’t see a single soul on trail until I passed a sign for “Charlie’s Bunion”—6ish miles into the hike. And then they were everywhere! So many day hikers! It was overwhelming, and honestly, irritating. One guy made the comment, “you really need all that for a hike to Charlie’s Bunion?” Insert eye roll here. And then when I stopped to filter water at a piped spring crossing the trail, a lady whispered to her husband, “dear God, honey, she’s actually going to drink out of that thing..” Can I go back into the deep woods now?

About a mile before getting to Newfound Gap, SoFarSoGood came hiking my way. She met me on trail to do a little hiking with me! We got to the gap and I asked her if she’d be willing to drive me up the road to Clingman’s Dome, so I could hike back down to Newfound Gap. A friend of Tiedye’s offered to let me stay at his cabin tonight, in Gatlinburg, and it would be easier for him to get me from Newfound Gap or to hitchhike from there into Gatlinburg.. but not so easy from Clingman’s Dome.

She kindly drove me up the mountain and we talked the whole way. When she let me out at the top, I started hiking, and she drove down the mountain to a less crowded area to hike some more, too. I was going to go up to the observation deck at the top, but there were so many people absolutely everywhere, that the second I saw the sign for the AT I all but ran to it. I quickly got into the woods that surround the paved walkway to the top, and was back by myself. Not a single person was on the trails around the dome.. it was weird, but peaceful.

I started my descent back down to Newfound Gap. It was about 7 miles, mostly downhill-but there were a few little hills thrown in for good measure. When I crossed a boar bridge, I found a gift left for me by SoFarSoGood. She left me some hand warmers and an orange bandana-something I had been wanting, so hunters would be able to see me when I hike. It was so kind of her to leave me this present, in a spot she knew I’d be the only one (most likely anyway) to spot.
I made it to the gap parking lot just after 5pm.

Tiedye’s friend, Bill, asked if I could get a ride into town, and no worries if not, he was at a work commitment though, and it would take him a little bit before he could leave. So, I walked to the road and stuck my thumb out. It took about 10 minutes (an awkward 10 minutes, seeing how there were tons of people in this completely full parking lot). Then, a sweet couple in a Jeep Wrangler stopped for me. They were visiting the Smokies from Miami, to see the fall colors in the mountains.

We talked the whole way to Gatlinburg. Once we got to the first red light in town, I thanked them and hopped out of their Jeep. I called mom, to let her know I was staying in town, and then literally ran into Bill outside of the convention center in the middle of downtown. He was helping breakdown the craft show that had been going on in the convention center and still had an hour or so of work to do before he could leave. He let me put my pack inside, and while he went back to work, I walked around the corner to a BBQ place.

Y’all. I flat out demolished a pulled pork sandwich with coleslaw, baked beans, mac and cheese, AND an order of hush puppies. Oh, and a large sweet tea. It was just what I needed! While I was sitting there, a family came in and sat at the table near mine. They got me talking about the trail, asking the normal questions people ask hikers.. and being so excited knowing I only had 200 miles left of this thing, I was more than happy to chit chat and answer every question that came my way! They were so kind, asked if I needed anything, to resupply or if I was low on money. I declined, but thanked them for the sweet offer.

After we said our byes, I walked back over to the convention center and stretched a bit while I waited for Bill to finish up. When he did, we went back to his cabin in the Gatlinburg mountains.It was so delightful! And he had a hot tub, too! I was just too exhausted to take advantage of his offer to soak a bit. I did shower though, and enjoy a beer while we chatted about all things, like how he and TieDye met, their friendship and the crazy adventures they’ve been on together.. and he filled me in on the Braves!! I had no clue they were headed to the World Series! Bill pulled up some highlights for me. I’m thrilled!

Now, I’m laying in a comfortable bed, snuggled in with even more comfortable quilts. I’m so tired I’m struggling to get this written up. Looks like it’s bedtime for me. Sweet dreams!

Start: Clingman’s Dome (AT mi 200). Stop: Spence Field Shelter (AT mi 183.7). Today’s miles: 16.3 miles. Total AT mileage: 2009.4 miles.

I overslept this morning at Bill’s place.. but luckily only like 20 or so minutes and not the hours I used to oversleep. I jumped up, rushed to pack, and then met Bill in the kitchen to help bring the breakfast he had been making out to the screened in porch with gorgeous morning mountain views.

He made scrambled eggs with artichoke hearts, bacon, potatoes and coffee. It was delicious! I was surprised I could eat anything after all the food I crammed in my mouth at the BBQ place last night, but my stomach was growling at the smells in the kitchen before I even finished packing.

Bill drove me back to Clingman’s Dome so I could start southbound from the top. It was a beautiful, chilly morning, with clear skies so far. And-being 9:30am, there was way less people! I headed up the paved road to the observation deck, Bill took a side trail to his favorite spot. We’d end up meeting there later when I started going south.
The paved walk up to Clingman’s is a steep half mile, every tenth of a mile or so there’s a bench for people to sit and rest a bit before carrying on.

I was speed walking up that thing, weaving around the others.. and giggling when they’d say things to their spouses like, “how the hell is she walking up this so fast with that big ole pack on her back? I need to sit down, just watching her makes me tired!” Haha-if you ever need some validation that your hard physical work is paying off-go truck up to Clingman’s Dome!

Once I got some lovely pictures from the top (with only 4-5 people, compared to the droves of hundreds packed in shoulder to shoulder yesterday), I headed into the woods on the AT. I liked this part of the trail. It was moss covered and it felt like a hidden gem again, like the masses were clueless that this beautiful trail was snuck in just beside their paved walkway. About 10-15 minutes later, I met up with Bill and he showed me his favorite spot. A tiny ledge behind some trees had a view of mountains and sky for miles and miles. I was awestruck as he pointed out the names of the mountains, the ridge lines, Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge.

We took some pictures and when I felt the wind picking up, I said my goodbyes. Rain was in the forecast, and the way the sky was changing, I knew it would be here soon.. and I still had a long way to go. We hugged, and I was off. Within thirty minutes the sky was dark and I decided to go ahead and put on my rain pants.. I already had the jacket on. I passed view after view of vast vistas of mountains in their autumn best. With the dark clouds over top, it made the leaves pop that much more.. these views are what you expect to see in a calendar for October, peak fall color. As pretty as it was, I kept a quick pace, always waiting on that rain to come and slow me down.

Sometime before the rain I came across my 2000 mile marker.. someone made it out of sticks on the ground. Y’all. I cried. I can officially call myself a thru hiker now, not someone attempting a thru hike.. once you complete 2000 miles of a long trail, you’re considered a thru hiker.. and as silly as words and self proclaimed titles are-this one has been a dream of mine for years now, and I’ve made it happen! I’ve hiked through rain, Lyme’s Disease, rolled ankles and busted knees, treacherous mountains in the dark, and cowboy camped under a sky of stars.. I’m a thruhiker. And now I’m tearing up again, dammit.

Around 2pm the inevitable happened. The sky dropped. My rain gear was holding its own, but I was now freezing cold. It was probably in the mid 40s-not that I would pull my phone out to try to find out in that kind of downpour. Strangely, even with the lakes of wet leaves and slick muddy trail, I didn’t fall any. Part of me thought I should just flop down now, so karma would see I already fell once, no need to make me do it again later.. but I stood on my two feet the whole time. Shocking really.

I paused at a shelter, a quick reprieve to check my phone and see how much farther my destination was. I also needed water.. funny, needing water when I was getting pounded by it. The people at the shelter attempted to talk me into staying there, instead of moving on.. I declined their kind offer, but did accept a liter of the water one guy had already collected, so I wouldn’t have to walk half a mile downhill to get my own.

I trudged on, I had 6 more miles to get to the shelter I was aiming for. It was getting so cold, and the higher I climbed along these ridges only made that worse. The rain was a steady drenching until just after 4pm, and then, as quickly as it came, it stopped. But, since the leaves were all soaked, when the wind whipped through, the leaves showered me instead of the sky. And the wind did not seem to stop howling. My fingers and toes were numb.

I ended up taking my rain pants off as I hiked up Thunderhead Mountain. The climb wasn’t tough, but it was demanding, got my heart pumping and warmed me up. I was actually grateful for it, especially when I started to feel my fingers again. The views at the top weren’t phenomenal, but when I went down and back up to the top of Rocky Top-they were breathtaking. The sun was shining through the rain clouds off in the distance and it had a magical feel to it. It’s moments like these that have me feeling immense gratitude for the situation I’ve found myself in. Such a beautiful life and a profound feeling of being so small in a world so enormous.

I got to the shelter just after 6pm. There were 8 women on a guided backpacking trip from REI (2 of the 8 were guides, both of which did the AT!). There was also a guy on a section hike there. The women were so happy for me and my 2k mile crossing, they congratulated me and asked questions. Savage, one of the guides, completed the AT in 2019, and knows Lady Di! Such a small community of folks! We chatted a bit while I unpacked my stuff and set up on the bottom floor of the double decker shelter. The guides were sleeping on the top deck, the ladies were all camping. I knew more rain was coming overnight and tomorrow, so I didn’t set up my tent.

I ate dinner shivering, it was already down to the high 30s and the wind was harsh. I ended up wrapping my water filter and putting it with me in my sleeping bag when I finally snuggled into it. If it dropped to below freezing, the filter could break and be useless. I’ve made it this far without catching giardia, I don’t want to take any chances of ruining that streak.

It took a long time to get warm enough to stop shivering in my sleeping bag. I had it tented over my body and head, worrying that my hot breath might make me pass out if I stayed under there too long, and then thought maybe that would be ok.. haha. When my hands could be semi steady, I only typed out short, choppy reminders of the day, in list form. It’s technically 5 days later that I’m writing all the details out.. it’s been a mixture of making sure I write out that day’s journal and then being too tired or cold to come back and write up today’s journal. Sorry about that. Lately, with rushing to make it to camp before the sun sets, and then having the cold set in, it’s been difficult to get this done. But, I’m almost done with the trail, so, I’ll make it happen either way!

Thanks for following along! So very sorry for the delay. (Just know, as I’m typing this up, I’m toasty warm in a hotel room with my mom!)