Start: 69.4
Stop: 80.6
Today’s miles: 11.2
Total PCT miles: 268.4
I really loved today. I slept phenomenally, I got up and packed before 7, and the 4 of us all headed out at about the same time-all with the same mission: get to High Bridge Camp before 12:30. That’s when the bus to Stehekin comes and it doesn’t come back until 3pm.. which would have been fine, too. But earlier is better, right?
I hiked a bit with Heidi, trail name Silky, an Australian teacher who is quick witted, funny, insightful and very upbeat, and her hiking partner, Maddie, an Australian midwife who is potentially one of the most genuinely kind and compassionate people I’ve met-while also being very chill and fun to be around. The three of us walked across several swing bridges and then chatted about life off and on until the hills slowed me down and they got ahead of me.
That was ok, I love getting to know folks but trying to talk and walk up a mountain (even a small one today) is quite embarrassing lol.. so, for the rest of the time I listened to my audiobook. We had 11.2 miles to get done in 5 hours. Having a deadline meant not enjoying the beauty as much as I’d have liked, like the gorgeous water crossings and little lakes out of no where.. and a MASSIVE tree that looked biblical Maddie spotted. Even still, I soaked in what I could and loved every second.
I made it to the bridge at 11:58. A whole 32 minutes early! Apparently I was only a few minutes after the Aussies, and then Margot got there not long after me! Perfect! I checked out the Stehekin river passing below the bridge, the teals of that glacier looking water were simply gorgeous. We’re technically still in the North Cascades National Park, and y’all know I love a National park 😉
The bus got to us right on time, and as the passengers disembarked, mostly day hikers, it started to sprinkle. Once we got on the bus, it looked like real bad weather was coming.. I was very happy I made this bus and didn’t have to wait around in the rain for the 3pm one!
The bus stopped at the bakery for 15 minutes before continuing in to town. I got some kind of mushroom, pesto, heaven filled breaded thing and a pecan sticky bun. DE-LI-CIOUS. The four of us ate on the bus so we wouldn’t get left. Once in town, we had to figure out the lay of the land. Stehekin is only accessed by hiking in, like we did, boating in across a lake from Chelan, or flying in on a small plane. That’s it.
Because of its remoteness, the town has zero cell phone service. Like NADA, zip-none. The one lodge in town, connected to a general store and next to the post office, offers WiFi for $5 for 24 hours AND they only give out 30 a day because otherwise their system would get overloaded and everything would crash. Cool cool. Because of knowing all of that, I decided to enjoy my friends today, and then get the WiFi in the morning and do my best to get all the things done I need to. Like upload 9 posts, check out the snow coming up (there will be some), download an app that has more roads and trails apparently and works very well without service, download some audiobooks.. sheesh, that’s already sounding stressful.
We sat for a bit under the deck of the lodge, waiting to see what the weather would do. No one wants to set up a tent in a storm, and it was early still-plenty of time for it to pass. Thankfully, it never came. But while we were waiting I got myself a can of Pinot Noir. Yep, a can. Whatever.
We walked up to the campground and set up our tents. We talked awhile, laughing all around, at times with literal tears running down my face (this was probably the wine’s fault). Margot made the choice to wait for tomorrow to shower and do laundry so it’ll give herself something to occupy her time.. and I agreed to do the same. Eventually I made my way back to the lodge and sat on the deck charging my stuff. When everyone else got there, we waited for the restaurant to start serving dinner and then went inside to order.
I had fish and chips and it was fantastic. I’m just now realizing I obviously liked all my food and ate it too fast to remember to take a picture of it! Ha, maybe I’m getting a bit of hiker hunger? Or maybe it’s just the excitement of it not being ramen noodles or mashed potatoes. Either way, please know I thoroughly enjoyed my meals, even if they are pricey.
We hung around until our stuff was charged and the restaurant was cleaning up, and headed back to our tents. We noticed a line of people going into the visitor center, so we joined-because why not? I’m still not sure what they were celebrating, but they had food and a band set up, a little picture taking area and all sorts of National park stuff. I got my stamp and sticker for my national park book (another one I get to scratch off the poster Jennifer got me!) and the others talked with the ranger about trail conditions.
That was the topic of conversation once back at our tents, the ones that are now surrounded by loud non PCT hikers who are not currently in bed at 9:40pm like I wish they were. Apparently we have 50 good miles out of here south, and then we hit “sketchy snow” that caused one hiker to turn around and back track to Stehekin. They did say that they only hear from hikers when they don’t make it through, they never hear from the hikers that do-and I think quite a few people are ahead of us and must surely be making it, right?
Either way, it does no good to worry about it right now.. we don’t have service to verify anything and cross check with postholer and Facebook groups and all do that. Something tells me a good bit of tomorrow will be dealing with that. Oh, also, another hiker that I’ve leap frogged with a bit, Strider, came into town today and said she slipped right where I did before Cutthroat Pass and had to scramble around the scree and boulders and vertically climb back out, too. I think she did it alone though, and that makes me sad.. I know she had to be terrified. She did it yesterday too, and was already set up at Six Mile Camp when I got there last night-so she fell before I did! Crazy.
Anyway. I think it’s sounding real earplug time, if ya know what I mean. Group camping can be very annoying. And while I’m happy I’m with new friends and making connections, I do really wish I was in a motel, Lodge, hotel, something with a bed and no people when I closed the door. Hopefully, when I make it to Steven’s Pass in so 7 odd days (starting Monday or Tuesday, because I’m waiting for my resupply box), I can make that happen.. and decent service, too.
Okie dokie, goodnight y’all.
Eagerly awaiting your next post!!!!