Month: July 2023

Start: 141.9

Stop: 159

Today’s miles: 17.1

Total PCT miles: 346.8

Spectacular. That was today. Just, spectacular.

I got on trail just before 8am. There was some blow downs but otherwise the trail was beautiful pine needle ground and easy ups and downs, meandering around trees and moss covered river rocks the size of tables. Pretty early on, there was a water crossing with a bridge that was snapped in half but still standing. Margot and Marquis hadn’t caught up to me yet, so I decided to just try it out, see if it felt stable. Nothing moved as I inched downward towards the water on this broken bridge now shaped like a “V.” When I got to the middle, I ran up the other side, scared it might give out or something, like I weigh a thousand pounds.. I swear my brain thinks I’m huge.

Not far past that bridge, the trail started to climb. I was keeping an ok pace, feeling good overall. Marquis caught up to me, and then so did Margot. We continued together from here, up to exposed trail, surrounded by snow patches and water crossings. They weren’t bad, we were apparently in front of glacier peak and the sights were gorgeous. After crossing quite a few of the snow traverses that were simple but exhausting, and a few post holing into newly made streams, we decided to eat lunch out in the open on a dry patch of ground.

We had our shoes off and drying, eating and laughing, when A-Train and Drake came by! They left Stehekin on Wednesday, a day and a half after us, and they’ve already caught up to us! Haha-those few shorter days are the reason, but either way I was so happy to see them. We ended up following the two of them up to the top of the pass, sometimes skirting around the switchbacks that would make us traverse snow in 2-4 places, and sometimes just walking where we were supposed to.

At the top of the pass, we all 5 just gasped. It was simply gorgeous. The whole area we just crossed and climbed through now looks like a huge bowl with stripes of white snow and dark rock, making me think of zebras. The other side of the pass was lush and green and had mountain ranges on top of mountain ranges as far as the eye could see.

A-Train and Drake stayed at the top for a while as we continued around the corner to start our descent. I immediately yelped and came to a halt. There was a long, steep, snowy traverse with no way down and around. And when I say steep, I mean watching rock pebbles sail away from your feet down several hundred feet. The snow was slushy and I was petrified. Half way across there was some melted out ground, and then the snow continued on the other side, even steeper than here.

My fear was palpable. My heart racing, panic setting in. Margot said she’d go first. She started without her microspikes, because it was now almost 2pm and the snow was slushy.. she got to the half way point and yells back that we should wear our spikes.. while the top layer was slushy, what you sank into was ice. Cool cool. Excuse me while I die.

I put mine on and set out next, to reach her in the middle section where she was now putting on her spikes. I didn’t want to go last. I don’t know why, but going in the middle felt safer. I was shaking the whole way, Margot calling to me, calming me down, telling me to set my poles before moving one step at a time. When I got to the middle, I started off relieved, until I really saw how steep the next section was. I felt like I was going to throw up.

Margot coached Marquis across, and the three of us sat for a few minutes. Margot didn’t like the steps in the next section, because some of them had melted out to the icy ground below, and there would be no way around that part. She started making her way creating new steps. She went up in an arch and then down to meet the safe steps until getting to the other side. At one point her foot slipped-she caught herself, but I was so panicked I threw up in my mouth.

I was visibly scared. I was afraid I’d start to cry. I didn’t want to go up and then back down in the snow, because the down hill scares me so much.. so I went straight and then up to meet her steps where they came down. I went slow. About halfway across I froze, seeing where her foot slipped. I started to hyperventilate and tears welled up behind my sunglasses. Margot kept talking to me the whole time, encouraging me, telling me I was strong and doing just fine. I finally started to move again, my legs so shaky that I was certain I was about to fall-and fall a really long way. It would have probably been a survivable fall, broken bones maybe, but the greenery was so steep on the other side of the snow, I don’t know that I could have climbed back up to the trail.

When I finally made it to solid ground, I all but collapsed into a heap on the trail. I was still shaking, every limb, and all I could do was keep thanking Margot for coaching me across that mess. I wouldn’t have crossed that alone-not after my fall from Cutthroat Pass, and if she hadn’t been there-and been so wonderful, I kind of think I would have turned around. Sincerely. I was that scared.

Margot did the same thing for Marquis, and I think he was just as panicked as I was. He did wonderful though, all three of us sitting on solid ground, replaying the moments before. Margot being the badass that went first and got us across.. just WOW. And then, while still working up the nerve to continue and see what’s around the next bend, A-Train and Drake came across. They came one right behind the other, and Drake seemed to have a good grasp to keep them both from slipping. They definitely didn’t look as timid as im sure I did-they crossed pretty fast, especially compared to us.. but A-Train’s face looked like she was not enjoying this situation.

They continued on, past us.. and eventually we started moving again. We had 2 more crossings, but they weren’t quite as steep and they were definitely not as long. A man in mountaineering boots passed us before we got to those, and he said he stomped in good steps-and boy was he right. If I wasn’t still so skittish I would have walked across the traverses easily. I still took it slow though, we all did. Falling was not a risk we wanted to take.

We came to a snow crossing in a crevice of the mountainside-with fast rushing water underneath. We could see two places where people had been crossing, and the first 3 steps of the top crossing had given out and was now a giant hole. The water rushing looked deep, like the snow was way above the actual ground the water was gushing down. Margot started to panic here. Ice bridges are terrifying. If it decides to collapse, and they all do, on you.. you’re falling under the snow into the water and it’s carrying you away-with no way to lift yourself out. Cue my claustrophobia.

The bottom crossing hadn’t been broken, so Marquis decided he’d cross first, to test the safety of the snow. We told him to run across, quick feet, just in case. He did, and did fine. Then Margot, and myself. No issues at all. On we went, around some stunning mountaintops and past a pond. Marquis and Margot glissaded down a safe snow bank.. I was in my shorts and didn’t want to slice my butt, so I walked around it, lol.

From 3pm to 7pm, we hiked close to 9 miles. It was so gorgeous. Wildflowers blooming, perfect blue skies, easy climbs on the trail. We passed several non PCT hikers out for the weekend, many going to rock climb to Glacier Peak (they’re crazy). Around 7pm we hit a little bit of snow and then climbed a bit more to find the lake we were all aiming for. It was windy, and cold-the sky doesn’t get dark until close to 10pm, but this beautiful lake was definitely already in the shade.

A-Train and Drake were set up already, and so was another guy, hunkered down in his tent. We set up as quick as we could, Margot and I near each other and Marquis a little ways away. The wind was so strong, we were kind of worried about Margot’s tent.. to the point that I told her she could sleep in mine with me if she thought it would be safer. She ended up declining, but knew the offer stood if she changed her mind.

We ate dinner down by the lake, in all of our layers and still shivering. The second we were done, it was straight to bed and curl up to get warm. It is so cold and windy, even all bundled up, that I’m having to wait for the steam from my breath to evaporate off my phone to keep typing-and then every so often I have to warm my hands up before continuing. But today was too astonishing to wait to write this out. But now, I think I’m done! Sweet dreams, y’all!

Start: 159

Stop: 178.7

Today’s miles: 19.7

Total PCT miles: 366.5

I didn’t sleep that great, which sucked because it was a beautiful spot.. it was just windy, cold, and I was on a slight slant making me slide on my pad during the night. I got up to Margo already awake, her stuff all laid out to dry in the sun because the condensation from the lake came in hard. I started packing pretty quick, but we still didn’t get on trail until 7:45. It was sunny and pretty and we just laughed and had breakfast together.

The trail was smooth sailing for the first 4 miles, and somewhere in between the 3rd and 4th mile I got just enough service to call Mom, and hear her voice! I love these mountains and the simplicity and the remoteness, but I really don’t like not getting to talk to her whenever I want. We caught up and I told her about the sketchy snow situation yesterday and sent her on a mission to find us a room for tomorrow night. We’ll be getting to Steven’s Pass on July 3rd, meaning it could be booked up with the holiday and all.

Minutes after walking, I was back to my “no service” icon. Dammit. I had a big climb to distract me, so it was probably for the best, especially if we plan on making it almost 20 miles today. I turned on my garmin while hiking up that mountain, and mom messaged me saying she was able to find us beds, but it was in the next town over from Skykomish because everything else was booked up. I was worried that we’d have a hard time getting there or finding a ride, so I messaged a trail Angel whose number was listed in FarOut, and he promised to help us get there.

Mom saved the day! Once Marquis and Margot caught up I told them the news and Margot said she had tried to book a room when she had service but it was all sold out, so she was extra excited mom was able to snag us one! Heck yeah. It’s weird being in a bubble in the woods with no idea what’s happening in the world outside of that said bubble. We don’t even know how our friends only a couple miles in either direction are doing.

The hike was a beautiful one today. The ups and downs were tiring, and my feet ache like crazy, but none of it was sketchy, unsafe, overgrown, or irritating. It was mostly smooth trail with rocks here and there and only a few patches of snow that were easily just walked across. I even crossed a “Grizzly Peak” that was absolutely nothing like the one in Northern California that tried to kill me. It was pretty incredible, covered in wildflowers.

We got to a little lake around 2pm and soaked our feet a bit. We all walked out like we were going to swim.. but it was just too cold to manage it. Margot’s legs are sunburnt and the cold water was unbearable, and my sweat bumps are back (like I got on the AT) so I did get my legs all the way in to try to scrub my pores clean, but no idea if it helped any.

Starting about 5pm, the mosquitoes called out the troops and were ready to slaughter us. It was getting more annoying as we walked, but not unbearable. Around 7:30, Margot and I found Marquis at the camp trail in all of his rain gear and his bug net. Crap. Here we go. We had to rush to find a spot to set up and then quickly get in our rain gear and nets, too. They were horrible, but still not quite to the level of hell Andrea and I dealt with that day in Hat Creek.

We set up our tents, I shoved my whole pack inside and then went to talk to A-Train and Drake a minute before climbing in my tent and refusing to come back out. I even ate dinner in here. We’re all camped pretty close together, so we still talked and laughed and planned-just from our individual tents. It’s 9:46 now, the sky is almost dark, but not quite-and Marquis, set up closest to me, is apparently already asleep because I can hear him snoring just a little bit.

So, that’s my cue to roll over and do the same. We only have 8.7 miles in the morning to get to the Steven’s Pass lodge/outfitter. I’m praying they have a restaurant there too! I can’t wait for real food again. And I really can’t wait for my first bed since that crappy hotel in Seattle. Besides that one, I haven’t had a real bed since Ashland.. that feels like an entirely different trip! Whoa.

Goodnight, y’all. Let me find my earplugs 😉

Start: 178.7

Stop: 187

Today’s miles: 8.3

Total PCT miles: 374.8

I tossed and turned a lot, but overall slept well, I think. I woke up to a soaking wet tent though, and a very damp sleeping bag. Thanks a lot lake condensation. It didn’t matter, we all three packed super quick and got to hiking by 6:30am.

The trail was easy going, but the mosquitoes were out in full force. I had my headnet on by 8, and was mildly losing my mind. Thankfully, the trail was kind and I could move fast. I hit the side trail to get to the Skykomish Lodge at 10:15 and was at the lodge by 10:20. Marquis beat me there by 40 minutes, and we were both devastated to learn that there wasn’t food nearby. That should be illegal.

A-Train and Drake were there already, too. They decided to get off trail today, which makes me really sad.. but I totally get their reasoning for it. They aren’t enjoying it anymore, so why waste their time doing something thats making them miserable? Tashina and Romy are going back on 7/12.. so now I know at least 5 trail friends that have left or are leaving the trail early.

Margot got there not long after me. We sat around talking and decided to hitch to Skykomish to get our trail chores done, since the inn Mom found us doesn’t have a laundry service and also the town doesn’t have a laundromat. We didn’t want to sit around here until the afternoon when Anthony, the trail Angel would be able to drive us. Drake, A-Train, and a SOBO named Jack went to try to hitch first. They were out there for a good 15-20 minutes before the three of us decided to go hitch, too.

I walked to the road, stuck my thumb out, waved and smiled at a little red car.. and immediately the driver pulled over! It was seriously less than a minute of getting to the road! Everyone was shocked! Haha-good times-I think it’s the bright fuchsia pink hiking shirt I wear. The girl in the red car could only take 2, so I told Drake and A-Train to go with her. They were out there first and they needed to figure out a bus to Seattle today. We all said our goodbyes and off they went.

The next hitch took a little longer, maybe 10 whole minutes, and a man driving a U-Haul stopped. Jack and I went, even though I was willing to stay to try for the next one. I asked the man how he felt about putting 2 hikers in the back of the U-Haul and I got a very quick, “Absolutely Not!” Haha just kidding there buddy-unless you’d have done it..

Jack sat in the middle, what an Angel, and we talked with the driver about all things hiking. He likes to do trail magic at a lake near White’s Pass. We three got so involved talking that he passed our stopping point and I didn’t realize it for a good 5-10 minutes. He was kind enough to turn around and take us back, but I almost thought we were going to have to hitch again.

We walked into a deli and I got a Rueben sandwich, chips, a beer, and a butterfinger-because why not?! As I was ordering, Margot and Marquis had just got their ride and was on the way, too. I wish I could say I was a kind person and waited for them before ordering and then eating my food-but I 100% didn’t even consider it. Yikes. Sorry guys. I did however happily sit with them while they ate once they got there. Margot tried her first ever Dr. Pepper and hated it.. that was a hysterical experience!

We walked through town, located the laundromat, and then I went to the post office to mail some stuff home-my old charging bank, the pants I wore in the cold weather (honestly the idea of putting those pants on in this heat makes me think I’ll actually combust), and the thermarest pad inflater thing-I love it-but it uses the hell out of AAA batteries and it’s just not worth the effort. Sad times.

We all shared a washer and dryer and sat around in rain gear and undies while our clothes washed. Since I actually had on rain pants, I walked to the Inn in town to get my resupply box Mom sent me. I told the man that I was sorry we weren’t staying, but I was told they didn’t have rooms-he says, “we have plenty of rooms tonight.” WTF?! Seriously? When I followed up-apparently yesterday he chose to not answer the Inn phone line (when Mom was calling to book us a room) because the cafe was busy. Ah. Ok. I guess?

I went back to the laundromat and reorganized my stuff (thank you Mom for all my goodies), and got really frustrated with how large my pack is when it’s weighed down with food. Resupply days are both the best and also horrifying because of this. Marquis went and got us some drinks while we sat waiting-so Margot got to try her first ever Mountain Dew, too.. she liked this one! Hahaha what have we done?

Once laundry was done, we redressed our dirty bodies in our clean clothes and walked to the gas station.. because Marquis said is was absolutely disgusting and we needed to see it for ourselves. He was not wrong. Holy hell. There was layers of dust or rodent excrement or something gross on every shelf-every item-including skittles. There were flies everywhere. And, the best part: it smelled like raw sewage. BARF. The man working there was super nice though, and I felt bad for him, but maybe it’s one of those “if you’re around it long enough you get used to it” deals.

We walked across the 2 lane highway, to be facing the correct direction and started to attempt to get a hitch to our Inn in Index, Washington-20 minutes west of Skykomish. Again, roughly 10-15 minutes with thumbs out, waving, smiling and all that jazz, a lady in a minivan stopped for us. We must have stank because she rolled her windows down! She did, however, take us right to our place, the historic and absolutely charming Bush House Inn.

We thanked her profusely and then we headed inside. The woman at the counter checked us in. Mom actually booked us two rooms and won’t tell us how much it was so we can pay her back.. I swear, she’s way too good to me. Each room has a queen bed, so Margot and I shared the larger room and bed, and let Marquis have his own. There were communal showers, so we took our turns and my god the bathrooms were incredible. This is the first non quarter operated shower I’ve had in what feels like forever, so please believe I took my sweet time with the free toiletries we were given. I even shaved my crazy looking legs.

When we had all showered and ready, we met in our room and were discussing our game plan: go to the general store across the street, let Marquis resupply and I needed lunch food.. then we’d eat dinner at the Inn’s restaurant. During this time, our room door was open and a toddler boy ran into our room! We cheese and coo at him, he giggles showing us his sweet dimples, and then he darted off. Seconds later all I hear is tumbling down stairs and screaming wails.

I immediately spring from our room and down the stairs to find that sweet boy wrapped in his mom’s arms, both of them crying. Without thinking, I start looking him over, feeling his head for swelling, noting the bruising blossoming above his nose on his forehead, moving each limb and making sure everything seemed to move like normal.. I know nothing about babies, but I figured if something was terribly wrong I’d hopefully notice it and at the very least be able to talk them into calling 911 or something.

The dad appeared and the little boy went to him, still crying.. once he did, I hugged the mom and asked if she was ok.. she broke down a little more, causing me to tear up, too. She promised she was ok, and agreed that he looked ok too-and we all agreed that he shouldn’t nap incase he had a concussion. When I walked back up the stairs, Margot and Marquis were standing there, and Margot had tears down her face too. She said it was the mom’s shrill scream that hit her so hard, and I realized my brain never even heard the mom, all I heard was the baby. That was such a terrifying moment, almost more scary than my fall on Cutthroat Pass or that sketchy snow crossing the other day.

Once we all settled our nerves a bit, we headed out for the general store. On the way out the door, I saw the mom and baby, he was happy now-and I realized she worked there, at the Inn and restaurant! I asked her again how she was, and she promised they were both ok, she was just so scared in that moment because she watched it all happen.. she was grabbing his arm as his foot slipped off the top step of the staircase and she couldn’t grab him fast enough. How absolutely awful!

The general store was small and overpriced, but we made it work. Margot and Marquis started in on a gallon of ice cream at the picnic table outside while we planned out the next day. I messaged Anthony to see if he’d be willing to pick us up tomorrow from here to take us to trail-and when he text back he said he had just sat down at the bar of the restaurant at the Inn! No way! We put our groceries away and went to talk to him. He would help us get the few things we couldn’t find at the general store and pick us up tomorrow after 8:30am. Deal.

We got a table and the mom of the sweet boy was our waitress. Gotta love small towns. We shared some salmon cakes, Margot and I got Prime Rib with potatoes and Marquis got a chicken panini. My goodness that steak was heaven! So delicious, I cleared my entire plate! Perfectly cooked, some incredible sauce on top, excellent grilled or sautéed potatoes. Marquis liked his sandwich, too. He was just full from eating the ENTIRE GALLON of ice cream..Which he finished at the restaurant. Lol kids, ammirite..

When we went to pay, I asked our waitress about leaving a tip on my card because I don’t have enough cash-and she wouldn’t let me.. said it was for all my help during the accident earlier. I didn’t like that, she still deserved a tip, but she wasn’t going to let me. It was really sweet of her, but unnecessary for sure. We walked up to our rooms, talked a bit, shared our gear.. and now we’re all in bed, Margot is probably close to being asleep and it’s time to turn this light out. Our room is amazing, this inn is wonderful.. my Mom is the best 🙂 I love you, Mom. Sweet dreams, y’all.. goodnight!