Start: 1040.1
Stop: 1054.4
Today’s miles: 14.3
Total PCT miles: 1124.9
Ha. My ostrich plan did not work out so well after all. I was shocked awake at 1:46am by lightening so close that it felt like it ripped through my tent. It was so bright and electric, every hair on my body, arms, legs, head, seemed like it was standing at attention. I was lying flat on my back now, pressed into my sleeping pad, and before I could even think to start counting 1 Mississippi, the entire world around me rumbled from the thunder.
I was so afraid, strikes kept coming and the thunder, too.. I even had fears of the rocks around me coming crumbing down on top of me with the way the ground was shaking from it all. It was CLOSE. Then, I started to smell a damp smoky smell. My immediate thought was, oh shit, the lightening is catching the forest on fire! I was in a complete panic, trying to force myself to think rationally, which isn’t easy when you’re tired and scared. Within minutes, rain came. Big, fat drops now pounding my tent.
When I went to sleep, my tent was staked out nice and tight, expecting some rain or something with the way the sky looked, now, the pressure of the rain and the wind whipping through there like it had an axe to grind, my tent suddenly looked very flimsy, seconds away from blowing away in the storm. I felt very unsafe.
So, I started packing my things, in the dark because the lightening was so frequent and so bright, I didn’t need my headlamp. I kept smelling that damp burning wood smell, so when I did eventually turn on my headlamp, and realized there was indeed NO smoke inside my tent, I paused my packing. I looked outside my closed vestibule, crouching to look farther than I could see from inside, and I saw nothing that looked like it was burning. Maybe the rain was helping?
I kept my stuff packed, but laid out in my tent. I figured I was ok, enough right now-it would be worse to leave in an active storm and hike uphill into a burn zone with zero safety or coverage. I was almost 15 miles out from town and the majority of that appeared to be along ridge lines in burn zones. I decided to wait the storm out, once it passed I’d shove everything in my pack, and go. I debated pushing my SOS button just to have someone official tell me I wasn’t in a forest fire-but I thought better of it, I didn’t want to tie someone up responding to me if they had other people to worry with. I did turn the garmin on though, just in case I needed to push that SOS button in a hurry.
It rained and stormed for 2 more hours, and towards the end of it, I guess it lulled me to sleep. I woke up at 6 wondering if I dreamed it all.. then I saw my packed stuff next to me, nope. I put everything in my pack and and broke down my tent, barely still staked into the ground. It was calm outside, no wind, no evidence of any rain or any storm. The sky was sightly hazy, but nothing that made me think I was going to walk into a blazing forest fire when I turned the corner.
I started hiking, and a couple miles in I caught up to the couple from Washington I met the other day. They said they were freaked out last night too. That made me feel better. When they stopped for water I kept moving. I was smart to not leave last night, nothing but burn zones and exposed ridge lines and then back into burn zones, all the way to the road. It was beautiful though, in its own way.
I got to the road just before 1pm and a trail Angel was there waiting for me, along with another SOBO couple I’d never met before. I messaged the Angel when I was at the top of a climb, so I’d have a ride into Etna. That lady drove like a bat out of hell! I was actually scared I might die in her SUV after surviving that storm last night, how tragic. I swear it felt like she was taking those mountain curves on two wheels. I may have even squealed a bit.
When she safely delivered us to Dotty’s, a burger joint in Etna, California, I definitely let out an audible sigh of relief. We survived! I quickly ordered a mushroom and Swiss burger, and a large drink, with fries and all the dipping sauces. Margot had told me once that there are two types of people: people that eat dry food and people that eat wet food, and since I’m a dipper-god I love sauces-I’m a wet food person. I miss her.
I ate my food then walked next door to the dollar general. It was too overwhelming in there to think about my resupply. I just grabbed a drink and some laundry detergent, then walked next door from there to the laundromat. I changed into my rain gear in a little back office that was I unlocked and unoccupied. I was sweating so much already, but I had to do laundry before walking to the other end of town, where free camping and quarter showers were located.
I got my stuff washing, and then sat on the bench to look up stuff on my phone. 108 degrees. No flipping wonder I was so miserable! I saw that there was no end in sight today for the heat, so on a whim, sitting there with sweat now beaded up on my eyebrows and upper lip, running down my back, I called the motel down the street. The man said he just had a room cancel, so it was all mine if I could stay on the phone a minute while he unblocked it in his computer and then he’d book me in it! I took it as a sign!
I finished my laundry, dressed in the office again, and went back to dollar general. This time, I got shampoo and conditioner, more drinks, and walked to the motel. He checked me in quick, telling me he had already turned the air on for me, and I quickly made my way down to my door and completely unloaded in that room. It was GLORIOUS! And only 3pm, so I still had plenty of time to get my chores done.
I showered and relaxed on the bed. Close to 5:30, I walked back to Dotty’s, and ordered chicken tenders to go, with all the sauces of course. While I waited for my order, I walked over to dollar general, for the 3rd time today, and resupplied. I finally had relaxed my brain enough to focus on what I needed to buy. My food was ready by the time I got back. Perfect!
Back in my room, I relaxed in the cool air, worked on posting my blog entries, and watched Law and Order: SVU, naturally. I caught up with mom, and planned out my next few days. That is, until I get a message from Margot. She was camped 8 miles from the California/Oregon border, and had just gotten a notification on her phone about being close to a wild fire.
I start researching: the wildfire was from the storm I was in early this morning. It’s called the Head Fire, and because of how quickly it’s growing, they’re closing the roads and issuing a mandatory evacuation of Seiad Valley! Omg! Margot could smell smoke, and it seemed closer to her than me now, since I was driven down into Etna. She was asking me if she should hike back.
I was terrified for her. I reached out to BigMama, who is home from her trip and knows the area so well. She said Margot should definitely try to get back to Callahans Lodge as soon as she can. I relayed the info, and Margot packed up and started to night hike back the way she came.
During all of this, we were coming up with a plan. BigMama was planning to go to Fish Lake tomorrow to get my box and mail it to Andrea, who Id be seeing again in Truckee, in 2 weeks.. now, she’d go get my box, then pick up Margot and some other hikers bailing the fire, and bring them all to Etna! Then, Margot and I would spent the night again in Etna, decide if it’s safe to go south from here the following day, or take the bus and some trail Angel rides to Old Station where Andrea and I left off.
So much is happening so fast! It’s crazy how quickly things change. I’ll be up talking with Margot and praying she stays safe while she hikes, I’m grateful she has service! I think that’s it for today though. I’m so worn out. Looks like I get an unexpected zero tho, so that’s still a win. Goodnight!