Month: August 2023

Start: 998.2

Stop: 1015.3

Today’s miles: 17.1

Total PCT miles: 1085.8

Whew, today was a tough one, but I sort of knew coming south out of Seiad Valley would be. Andrea and I got up around 7am. I slept so incredibly well in that cushy hotel bed. My feet would still wake me up, throbbing or sharp shooting pain through my soles.. but I’d change position and fall right back into sweet oblivion. The pillows were so plush I got lost in them a few times. I moved around so much, Andrea thought I slept bad.. I definitely had my best night of sleep since starting this thing, so, whoops. Sorry, buddy..

We left around 7:35 and swung through a McDonalds for breakfast on the way out to Seiad. It was an hour and a half drive, and it took us down the same two lane road along the Klamath River I hitched down back in early June. I showed Andrea some of the same things that sweet man, Bill I believe, showed me. I was and still am so incredibly grateful for her friendship. If she didn’t come to get me, I would still be at Fish Lake, not one step closer to getting to Mexico.

Along the way we saw a hiker walking that two lane road. We stopped to pick him up, he was literally going to road walk over 50 some miles. Yikes. He didn’t talk a whole lot, and I think that was just fine by both of us up front. Andrea dropped me off at the store parking lot around 9:30. We hugged and she started her 5 hour drive home. I went into the store, which was actually open although everything online said it wouldn’t be.. and got a Dr. Pepper.

I drank it in the parking lot, filled my water bottles, and began the 6 mile road walk to the trail. I would have asked Andrea to drop me off at the trailhead, but this 6 miles is part of the PCT, so it didn’t feel right to skip that whole section. Well. That’s what I thought when I told her where to drop me off, I changed that tune about 2 miles into that 6 mile road walk. It was HOT. It had hardly any shade, and I was breaking in my new shoes. Fun times.

When I made it to the campground at the top of the road walk, I used the pit toilet and then laid on a picnic table for a bit. I wasn’t hungry for lunch yet, but I was pouring sweat and couldn’t seem to get enough water. Thankfully there was water all along the trail today, every 2 miles for most of it. But this is where the climbing got tough. From the campground, to where I’m camped at now, it was 4,000 feet of elevation gain in 11 miles. It wasn’t an up and down situation, it was mostly just UP.

The trail followed along Grider Creek.. it was overgrown in many parts, there were huge blow downs that took some effort to get over and around.. I was praising God and Andrea for my new shoes almost the entire day. My legs got pretty scraped up from the overgrowth, and maybe a little rashy, too. They’re burning now. I also saw a snake in the overgrowth, which only made me more anxious pushing my way through the bushes.

I had my umbrella out for the majority of the climb. And I sat and soaked my feet in one of the creek crossings for a solid 35 minutes. I would also soak my bandana at every water crossing to put on the back of my neck to try to help me cool down. It helped, some, but my god it was brutal. Now that I’m thinking on it, I wonder if this is the heat wave everyone was mentioning? HipBone and MountainGoat were saying southern Oregon would be in the 100s.. this feels a lot like that..

I passed a man coming northbound later in the afternoon. He stopped to talk to me, and he’s apparently the guy that gives out the awards when you submit your claim for the triple crown. So, after you hike the Appalachian Trail, the Pacific Crest Trail, and the Continental Divide Trail, you submit a form to a committee saying you did all three and they congratulate you and give you a certificate saying you got your Triple Crown and I’m assuming your name goes down on record for doing so. He said you only either hike 1 of the 3, or all 3, so he’d be seeing my name soon enough, ha!

We talked a good 5-10 minutes.. he’s done 3 different caminos and gave me his email so I can get some info from him about the Porto Way. Andrea was just talking about that this morning, I think it’s a sign that we’re supposed to do it together. We took a selfie and then headed in our opposite directions.. me being very jealous of his continuous downhill to my continuous climb.

I filled up with water at the last water spot before 6-7 miles of more climbing to the next source. I was originally planning to just eat dinner at this campsite I’m at-but once I took my pack off, I decided to stay. I’ll still get to Etna on the same day whether I camp here or torture myself for 4 more miles. I also hope that maybe the rest of the 2,000 feet of elevation gain will be easier in the morning in the cool air, before the sun scorches the earth again. One can only pray.

After I got my camp set up and cooked my dinner, a couple came by and decided to camp here, too. They’re German, Rudy and Rebecca, and they follow Drake and A-Train’s YouTube channel! They were so excited to know I met them and hung out with them for a few days! Such a small world. Their trail names are R&R. They came and ate their dinner at a log close to my tent (since I was eating in my tent-because bugs), and we “had dinner” together and talked. They’re super friendly and I’m happy they’re camping close by.

Since I got to camp at 6, I had planned to catch up on my writing and get a few things planned and organized for the days to come-but yall. I’m exhausted. It’s 8:40, the sun is gone but the sky still has just a little light left in it-and I think I’m going to have to close my eyes and get some sleep. The heat today completely zapped me. So, off to dreamland I go. Im already missing that hotel bed, and my west coast bestie. Sweet dreams!

Start: 1015.3

Stop: 1040.1

Today’s miles: 24.8

Total PCT miles: 1110

I didn’t sleep too bad, on my first night on trail without my friends, my one complaint was that I was hot, all night, frequently kicking off my quilt completely, then missing it, covering back up only to kick it off again. I didn’t want to get up, and didn’t until 6:30. I knew today would be a hot one again, in this head wave, but I couldn’t make myself get up a second earlier.

As I was packing up my tent, a deer walked over followed by her baby. The mama started licking where I had gone to pee earlier, yikes, sorry girl. Then, another deer and baby came walking up and the two mamas got into a boxing and kicking match over my pee. For a minute I thought I was still asleep and dreaming because it was so comical and all less than 20 feet from where I was packing up.

The climb from camp was another 2000 feet of elevation gain, and I was glad I waited to do this today and not last night. It was much cooler in the shade of the mountain than it would have been last night, even though I was still pouring sweat at 7am. I felt slow and shocked that this is how horribly I’m doing after 1100 miles of hiking. This climb is kicking my ass!

At the top there was a side trail to water, and I desperately needed more. I left my pack and then realized more deer were around and one was creeping awfully close to my pack-probably to lick the salt from my sweat on the straps. I rushed with the water and scared them all away when I yelled at the one getting close.

The day only got hotter as I walked. After that first climb was finally over, it was up and down, across ridge lines and over rocks. It got more beautiful, scenery wise-being able to see far out into the distance, mountains upon mountains. Quite a bit of the trail was through burn zones, so even when there should have been shade, there wasn’t. I loved the views but I felt very slow and my sense of accomplishment was diminished every time I checked my phone and realized I hadn’t gone very far at all from the last time I looked.

I basically stayed under my sun umbrella for the majority of the day. When I decided I was hungry enough for lunch, I just flopped on the side of the trail, barely out of the way for the few northbound hikers that passed by. It was so hot and I was so frustrated. I tried to pep myself up, but the heat was just too draining.

Within the last 4 miles of trail, the wind started blowing and clouds covered the sun. The relief given to me from that temporary shade was immense. I was getting nervous though, high on ridge lines and burn zones with storm clouds rolling in. It was starting to get dark when I passed the first of two little lakes a quarter mile apart. No one was at this one, and I knew at least the two couples I met yesterday would be at the next one if not here.. since after the lakes, camping options were slim.

It was dusky dark and I didn’t know how many more people may be at the next lake, I quickly set up camp at this one. It wasn’t as high as I had been, but after I was set up, I worried that I made the wrong call-because of the wind and clouds rolling in. But, as I was having these thoughts it was already dark. So, too bad. I’m staying put.
I unpacked inside my tent and actually had the vestibules closed tight, expecting rain but also hoping to limit some of the wind gushing through.

I ate my dinner in the dark, forcing myself to finish everything because I’m just so dang exhausted. And now, as I’m laying here typing this, there’s a ton of lightening going across the sky, but no thunder and no rain-yet. I feel like it’s coming and I’m a bit worried up here, this high by myself. I think I’ll put my earplugs in and try to sleep, that way I won’t know what all is going on out there. Just like an ostrich with its head in the sand! Ha! So, sweet dreams, y’all.

Start: 1040.1

Stop: 1054.4

Today’s miles: 14.3

Total PCT miles: 1124.9

Ha. My ostrich plan did not work out so well after all. I was shocked awake at 1:46am by lightening so close that it felt like it ripped through my tent. It was so bright and electric, every hair on my body, arms, legs, head, seemed like it was standing at attention. I was lying flat on my back now, pressed into my sleeping pad, and before I could even think to start counting 1 Mississippi, the entire world around me rumbled from the thunder.

I was so afraid, strikes kept coming and the thunder, too.. I even had fears of the rocks around me coming crumbing down on top of me with the way the ground was shaking from it all. It was CLOSE. Then, I started to smell a damp smoky smell. My immediate thought was, oh shit, the lightening is catching the forest on fire! I was in a complete panic, trying to force myself to think rationally, which isn’t easy when you’re tired and scared. Within minutes, rain came. Big, fat drops now pounding my tent.

When I went to sleep, my tent was staked out nice and tight, expecting some rain or something with the way the sky looked, now, the pressure of the rain and the wind whipping through there like it had an axe to grind, my tent suddenly looked very flimsy, seconds away from blowing away in the storm. I felt very unsafe.

So, I started packing my things, in the dark because the lightening was so frequent and so bright, I didn’t need my headlamp. I kept smelling that damp burning wood smell, so when I did eventually turn on my headlamp, and realized there was indeed NO smoke inside my tent, I paused my packing. I looked outside my closed vestibule, crouching to look farther than I could see from inside, and I saw nothing that looked like it was burning. Maybe the rain was helping?

I kept my stuff packed, but laid out in my tent. I figured I was ok, enough right now-it would be worse to leave in an active storm and hike uphill into a burn zone with zero safety or coverage. I was almost 15 miles out from town and the majority of that appeared to be along ridge lines in burn zones. I decided to wait the storm out, once it passed I’d shove everything in my pack, and go. I debated pushing my SOS button just to have someone official tell me I wasn’t in a forest fire-but I thought better of it, I didn’t want to tie someone up responding to me if they had other people to worry with. I did turn the garmin on though, just in case I needed to push that SOS button in a hurry.

It rained and stormed for 2 more hours, and towards the end of it, I guess it lulled me to sleep. I woke up at 6 wondering if I dreamed it all.. then I saw my packed stuff next to me, nope. I put everything in my pack and and broke down my tent, barely still staked into the ground. It was calm outside, no wind, no evidence of any rain or any storm. The sky was sightly hazy, but nothing that made me think I was going to walk into a blazing forest fire when I turned the corner.

I started hiking, and a couple miles in I caught up to the couple from Washington I met the other day. They said they were freaked out last night too. That made me feel better. When they stopped for water I kept moving. I was smart to not leave last night, nothing but burn zones and exposed ridge lines and then back into burn zones, all the way to the road. It was beautiful though, in its own way.

I got to the road just before 1pm and a trail Angel was there waiting for me, along with another SOBO couple I’d never met before. I messaged the Angel when I was at the top of a climb, so I’d have a ride into Etna. That lady drove like a bat out of hell! I was actually scared I might die in her SUV after surviving that storm last night, how tragic. I swear it felt like she was taking those mountain curves on two wheels. I may have even squealed a bit.

When she safely delivered us to Dotty’s, a burger joint in Etna, California, I definitely let out an audible sigh of relief. We survived! I quickly ordered a mushroom and Swiss burger, and a large drink, with fries and all the dipping sauces. Margot had told me once that there are two types of people: people that eat dry food and people that eat wet food, and since I’m a dipper-god I love sauces-I’m a wet food person. I miss her.

I ate my food then walked next door to the dollar general. It was too overwhelming in there to think about my resupply. I just grabbed a drink and some laundry detergent, then walked next door from there to the laundromat. I changed into my rain gear in a little back office that was I unlocked and unoccupied. I was sweating so much already, but I had to do laundry before walking to the other end of town, where free camping and quarter showers were located.

I got my stuff washing, and then sat on the bench to look up stuff on my phone. 108 degrees. No flipping wonder I was so miserable! I saw that there was no end in sight today for the heat, so on a whim, sitting there with sweat now beaded up on my eyebrows and upper lip, running down my back, I called the motel down the street. The man said he just had a room cancel, so it was all mine if I could stay on the phone a minute while he unblocked it in his computer and then he’d book me in it! I took it as a sign!

I finished my laundry, dressed in the office again, and went back to dollar general. This time, I got shampoo and conditioner, more drinks, and walked to the motel. He checked me in quick, telling me he had already turned the air on for me, and I quickly made my way down to my door and completely unloaded in that room. It was GLORIOUS! And only 3pm, so I still had plenty of time to get my chores done.

I showered and relaxed on the bed. Close to 5:30, I walked back to Dotty’s, and ordered chicken tenders to go, with all the sauces of course. While I waited for my order, I walked over to dollar general, for the 3rd time today, and resupplied. I finally had relaxed my brain enough to focus on what I needed to buy. My food was ready by the time I got back. Perfect!

Back in my room, I relaxed in the cool air, worked on posting my blog entries, and watched Law and Order: SVU, naturally. I caught up with mom, and planned out my next few days. That is, until I get a message from Margot. She was camped 8 miles from the California/Oregon border, and had just gotten a notification on her phone about being close to a wild fire.

I start researching: the wildfire was from the storm I was in early this morning. It’s called the Head Fire, and because of how quickly it’s growing, they’re closing the roads and issuing a mandatory evacuation of Seiad Valley! Omg! Margot could smell smoke, and it seemed closer to her than me now, since I was driven down into Etna. She was asking me if she should hike back.

I was terrified for her. I reached out to BigMama, who is home from her trip and knows the area so well. She said Margot should definitely try to get back to Callahans Lodge as soon as she can. I relayed the info, and Margot packed up and started to night hike back the way she came.

During all of this, we were coming up with a plan. BigMama was planning to go to Fish Lake tomorrow to get my box and mail it to Andrea, who Id be seeing again in Truckee, in 2 weeks.. now, she’d go get my box, then pick up Margot and some other hikers bailing the fire, and bring them all to Etna! Then, Margot and I would spent the night again in Etna, decide if it’s safe to go south from here the following day, or take the bus and some trail Angel rides to Old Station where Andrea and I left off.

So much is happening so fast! It’s crazy how quickly things change. I’ll be up talking with Margot and praying she stays safe while she hikes, I’m grateful she has service! I think that’s it for today though. I’m so worn out. Looks like I get an unexpected zero tho, so that’s still a win. Goodnight!