Start: 1536
Stop: 1561.8
Today’s miles: 25.8
Total PCT miles: 1414
I couldnt sleep for the life of me last night. And it wasn’t because of bears, either. My right hip started hurting and just would not let up, no matter which way I turned. It sucked.
Around 5:30, Margot did hear a bear though. I didn’t, and kept trying to sleep until 6, when I relented and started packing. We were hiking by 6:30 and I was hurting. My right hip didn’t feel right, although my pack finally felt manageable with only todays food in it.
The trail was stunning as we hiked into Desolation Wilderness, an area known for its lakes and views. We had a pretty hefty climb up to Dick’s Pass, but we passed by so many little creeks on the way, and then were gobsmacked when we first came across Fontanillis Lake. It was just so pristine! The water was beyond clear, the mountains jutting up around it felt completely unreal.
We kept moving, knowing we had to get to Echo Chalet before nightfall, so we could hope for a ride into South Lake Tahoe tonight, where Margot had already booked us a room. It got pretty hot, and the trail was exposed, going around these beautiful mountains. I started to have some tummy issues early on in the day, and they definitely did not improve as I walked. In total I dug 5 catholes.. in very open areas because when you have to poop, you have to poop. I couldn’t exactly wait for a forest to appear.
That being said, as absolutely beautiful as today was, I was grouchy. My stomach hurt, constantly sounding like cartoon lava, my hip hurt, making me limp some, I was hot.. it just wasn’t fair. I tried so hard to just love the moment, but besides what I could actually see, I was miserable.
As the day progressed, we only passed more and more beautiful lakes. Margot stopped to swim in one, because OF COURSE you should-but y’all, TMI but here we are: my butt was too raw for me to want to get in water and then hike 7 more miles. I was so jealous of how much she was enjoying the water, and I don’t blame her for a second for soaking up every bit she could. I almost just went for it anyway, but with the bubbles my stomach was roiling with-I didn’t want to take the chance.
So, after hanging out with her while she swam awhile, I carried on. I was moving so slow anyway, I knew she’d catch me after she had time to dry out a bit and start hiking again. The descent from Aloha Lake where she swam down to Echo Lakes was a rough one. It was very rock filled, almost like trying to walk through a dump truck of gravel-just sometimes the rocks were the size of small dogs.
Eventually I made it to an area with a phone and a water taxi sign. No one answered the phone, and I’m here to tell you, if they did-I would have 100% rode in a boat to the Chalet instead of walking the last 2.6 miles to get there. When Margot caught up to me, she agreed she’d take the taxi, too. Alas, we had to walk.
It ended up being fine, the trail was gorgeous and Echo lake is apparently a pretty popular place to own property. I didn’t realize it was a lake people lived on. I got great service a mile from the Chalet, so I messaged a few friends, chatted with my buddy Brittany-who lifted my spirits tremendously.
When we made it to the Chalet (a general store basically for the lake, and the parking lot for the people who live and play on the lake too), it was just after 7:30 and already getting dark. We knew our hitch hiking chances were getting slimmer by the second. We looked for the numbers for trail angels, found 2-but no dice. Margot tried Uber. A lady paddle boarding said if we were still here when she got back, she’d take us-but she was just getting started and “would be awhile” because of the super moon.
I tried Lyft and after 20 or so minutes, I got our ride accepted, but the time for pick up just kept getting longer, so it wasn’t looking too good. Another hiker appeared, CliffJumper from the Netherlands, and asked if he could catch the same ride we get if it worked out. We said of course and we all sat around in the dark, getting cold, waiting for either my Lyft lady to appear or the paddle board lady to come back.
I was getting hangry, my stomach finally agreeing it was done being a brat and wanted some food now. Cool. Our Lyft lady ended up getting to us first. She was so nice and even dropped off CliffJumper at a trail angel’s house on the way to our motel. Once at the motel, now 9:30, we were exhausted, but the room was gorgeous! I ordered us McDonald’s (the fastest option) on DoorDash, Margot showered.
The food came before I could shower, so I ate and then showered, finally getting into the cushy bed by 10:30. Y’all. I am Worn. Out. I told Margot I’d be ok with taking a zero day tomorrow if she was. My hip really hurts. So we’ll see if this room is available in the morning. Sweet dreams.