Month: October 2023

Start: 1637.1

Stop: 1651.3

Today’s miles: 14.2

Total PCT miles: 1503.5

Sometime before 4am, I actually got cold! I sat up and got the fluffier blanket from the foot of my bed and was out like a light. It was great! I woke up before my 7:15 alarm.. like 6:50 ish maybe, and went to the bathroom.

When I came back, I laid for a few more minutes and then decided I was awake, so I took my medicine and Margot and I went downstairs to the store. We resupplied, she mostly had all she needed from a trail angel, Outdoor Jay that shipped her a full resupply in a bear canister! She just needed a few little things to supplement. He’s pretty incredible to do that. I was also really impressed with the food he found her, too.. especially since she shared some of it with me!

Anyway, we made our purchases and then went to the restaurant for breakfast. We got pancakes, eggs, hashbrowns, bacon, and biscuits and gravy.. and unlimited coffee.. and no berating. It may very well be my favorite breakfast on this whole trail so far. Everything was so flavorful and cooked perfectly, unlike the usual somewhat bland breakfasts we’ve had. We absolutely stuffed ourselves full. AND it was only $20 each for all of that! Crazy!

Afterwards, we packed our bags and sat in the lobby loving on their old pup, Gabby. She was precious, with grey around her sweet eyes. At 10am, a different driver drove 7 of us hikers up to Senora Pass and we began our climb. It was so beautiful up there today, that I’m once again at a loss for words. Steep climbs up to steep mountaintops covered in snow in places, small lakes around, just miles and miles of views in every direction.

When I had service, I FaceTimed my friend, Stacey, so I could see her pretty face and show her these outstanding views. Man I really am missing home and my people, but getting to see Stacey and talk a bit before I lost service helped give me some motivation. She also gave me a pep talk about knowing I’d be able to finish by the deadline I’ve given myself. Hearing her say that only gave me more motivation to make it happen.

We had a few snow crossings that weren’t too bad. And then we came around this corner and I could see a tiny dot going up a near vertical chunk of white snow. I wanted to panic, but Margot kept me in check. When we got close to it, she and I were the only 2 of our group of 7 left. We put on our spikes and she let me go first, so if I slid.. I’d slide back down to her and she’d tell me I was fine.. lol.

It was terrifying. It was steep, and each step felt like it was one ounce of pressure away from sending me back down hill. I kept my eyes directly in front of me. Just step, step, step.. no looking around and scaring the shit out of myself.

When I got to the top, I realized the steps went left, I slowly maneuvered my way that way before seeing that now I was headed in a down slope to the trail. My goodness, it’s just so terrifying. But, I never feared for my life.. I knew if I slipped I’d slide a long way back down, but it didn’t look like I’d be hurt unless I landed too hard or hit a hidden rock or something.

Margot came up after me, looking cool as a cucumber, her steps looking like normal walking steps, not “please don’t slip to my near death” steps like mine. She’s so good on snow. Maybe I’ll feel that way after the Sierra, but I doubt it. I don’t find this high risk business fun.

We had one or maybe two more small patches to cross, we didn’t have to put our spikes back on. Then we started a pretty massive descent. We decided to stop a little early, like 5:30, because it wouldn’t make much of a difference for the next few days either way, and Margot hiked her first day with her bear can, and while taking it like a complete champ, her back was hurting by the end of the day. We had already decided we wanted a shorter day before her back started to make its discomfort known, but I think she was relieved that I was happy to stop, too.

We got to camp and start setting up.. and I kid you not, by 5:45 there were 7 other people that we haven’t seen all damn day also setting up all around us. CliffJumper and Gazelle are 2 of the 7, but I didn’t catch the other’s names. They’re funny and kind and loud. Although, now it’s dark at 8:02 and everyone has pretty much respected the hiker midnight bedtime rule and all is quiet. I bet it won’t be so quiet come 6am. Ugh. I think the Sierras will be pretty crowded this year, too.. with all the flipping around.

Lord help us. Ok, that’s all I got. Time to fall asleep before someone starts snoring and I can hear them over my earplugs. Goodnight!

Start: 1651.3

Stop: 1674.2

Today’s miles: 22.9

Total PCT miles: 1526.4

Today was spectacular, and exactly what you’d expect on your first day walking in to Yosemite National Park, our 5th national park so far.. I was in awe all day.

We started hiking and it was a little chilly, but I quickly warmed up. It was a slow and gradual incline to the top of a pass with a beautiful alpine lake named Dorothy Lake. I ended up going the wrong way around the lake and didn’t even realize it until another hiker I had seen earlier started coming back towards me. He showed me on our app how off trail we were, so we walked back together-then skirted the lake and did a little bushwhacking and log crossing together.. instead of walking all the way back to the junction we both apparently missed.

As the trail started climbing up to the pass, around rocks and a tiny bit of snow, the other hiker got ahead of me. Just as I was wondering if Margot went the wrong way, too, or if she went the right way and was now ahead of me, I walked right into her! The other hiker passed her and let her know he and I went the wrong way and I wasn’t far behind, so she waited for me. We sat and had some snacks before moving on.

At the top of Dorothy Lake Pass, the views were simply incredible. Pictures just truly can’t capture that raw natural beauty, but they try. I was giddy and happy the whole day! The descent from the pass was also slow and gradual and easy. There was a ton of water everywhere, more lakes, some squishy areas in a meadow with a stream running beside the trail- and it was every bit as perfect as it sounds. The only thing that could have made it better would have been if my cabin was off to the side and my dogs were running out to greet me.

We stopped to eat lunch together somewhere on that downhill. While we were sitting there, talking and marveling at the beauty of this place, we both started to miss Marquis. I checked to see if I had service, and when I realized I didn’t I was bummed. Then I remembered my Garmin Inreach! I sent him a message telling him we missed him and hoped he was doing well-all while praying he wouldn’t be mad that I was using up his messages.

After lunch, Margot and I got stopped by our very first ranger! He made me show him my permit, which he thoroughly read, and my bear canister, too. Margot showed hers-and the three of us chatted for awhile about the park, the permits, weather, water crossings.. all the things. He was super nice and I was happy about having a kind interaction, so many have mentioned some rangers being kind of snippy and rude after dealing with so many people all the time, and probably not having the correct things.

Just after talking with him, we had a large stream to cross.. it wasn’t too deep, maybe mid calf high, but it was very wide.. so I took my socks and shoes off and walked across in my crocs. Margot opted for barefoot and we sat on the other bank of the stream to let our feet dry. It was starting to get late afternoon and we still had some climbing to do.. I was getting worried we wouldn’t make it to our planned site before dark.

I heard back from Marquis on the Inreach, he was doing well, made it through the Sierra and was now in Kennedy Meadows South, getting ready to start the desert. He said the sierras were cold and difficult but incredible. I’m now even more excited for the Sierra, and missing Marquis that much more. I wish we had caught up to each other!

The next river crossing had a huge log across it. I got to it first, and started across, but half way the limbs sticking up off the tree log started to snag my shorts and I got anxious that I’d fall if I continued, so I slowly backtracked and then took my socks and shoes off again and crossed in the crocs. Margot came through on the log while my feet were drying on the other side. She doesn’t wear loose shorts, so the limbs didn’t snag her as badly as they grabbed at me, and she’s way better balanced in general I think, haha.

After that last shoes off crossing, we started our first of two climbs, each one over a thousand feet of elevation gain in under two miles. It. Was. Tough. The second climb had slick rocks from waterfalls cascading down the trail, making it hard to move quick. On the descent of the second climb, there were tons of loose rocks and we ended up in our headlamps. Damn the sun for setting so early these days! And damn the rocks for slowing us down!

At the bottom of the descent, there was a valley with a fast moving creek running through it. Since it was dark already, we decided not to attempt the next climb to find our intended campsite. We’d only be a little short, and that was fine by me! We looked for campsites on the side of the creek we were on, but couldn’t see much. What I could see was that Margot’s headlamp is a hell of a lot better than mine! I thought I could see fine until she shows up and suddenly I can see another 50 or so feet! It’s nuts!

Not being able to find a suitable campsite on this side of the creek meant a very sketchy rock hop crossing of said creek to the other side to find camping. It was very sketchy, fast moving water with lots of slick rocks. I was able to make it across with dry feet somehow, and just barely.

Margot had to get her feet wet at last minute, with her legs being just a little shy of reaching the second to last rock on the rock hop. Actually “hopping” across rocks is beyond terrifying. This water wasn’t high consequence in the sense that it would sweep you away and you’d drown, but it was scary in a “it’s cold as hell, the water is even colder, and falling onto sharp, slick rocks in ice cold water would be awful” kind of way.

Across the creek, we looked for about 10 minutes for the supposed campsites. Yosemite has some serious camping rules-like you must be 25 feet away from the trail and 100 feet from water and yada yada yada.. welp, we couldn’t find any established sites like our app claimed we would. So, we did our best and found mostly flat spots on sandy gravel type ground. We’re both a little slanted. Oh well.

We set up camp, and just ate our dinner. It’s 9:45 now and the stars are outstanding. I can hear the creek rushing by and our bear canisters are stashed “far away” like they’re supposed to be. I’m a bit cold, so I think it’s bedtime. Goodnight y’all. YAY FOR MAKING IT INTO YOSEMITE!

Start: 1674.2

Stop: 1691.6

Today’s miles: 17.4

Total PCT miles: 1543.8

Let me tell you about the day I was supposed to do 25 miles, and instead only did 17. I swear, we plan, God AND this trail laugh. And boy oh boy do they laugh hard. Two days in a row of me falling short of my planned mileage, but I think it’ll be fine-food wise. Everything out here is measured and cared about in food: how much I have with me, how many days I can go with what I have, and-most importantly-when can I spend money on overpriced “cooked for me” food?! Haha

Anyway. I woke up late, smiling in my dreams as I turned off my vibrating watch not realizing what it was. I popped up at 6:38-which, in the grand scheme of things isn’t really late at all.. except I set an extra alarm last night, determined to get started earlier this morning, so I’d have a better chance at making my miles. Go ahead, laugh. Thankfully, Margot seemed just as motivated as me to get up.

I was packed and on trail just after 7:15, and I was met immediately with the not so gentle climb I was supposed to do half of yesterday. The whole way up, panting and pouring sweat, I was grateful we didn’t try to do this in the dark. With the tent sites having rules about being so many feet away from trail, it’s hard to spot them in the daylight-in the dark it’s practically useless.

The mosquitoes were out, which had me cussing. How in the hell are these bastards surviving in cooler temps? Are California mosquitoes seriously so adapted to the changing temperatures so well that they can survive to dive bomb my eyeballs to their death? Seems crazy to me. And it makes me absolutely crazy, too. Thankfully the picaridin lotion keeps them from biting-I just wish it created a foot wide forcefield around me so I didn’t have to hear them buzzing in my ears or feel them bounce off my face.

It was overcast and that worried me some. I was slow moving up the ascent, and somewhere around the top was several ponds and a stunning lake. There are so many beautiful lakes around here (I see why the mosquitoes are here, too) and it’s heartbreaking that it’s too chilly now for me to comfortably swim. I mean, I could get in-but then it would take forever to warm up and dry out. Temperatures seem to be hanging around the 55-65 degree range the last few days.

I stopped to emergently poop and on my way back to my pack, Margot caught up to me. We walked together for awhile, chatting and finally laughing for the first time today. The scenery was still just as stunning as it’s been: huge granite mountains jutting out of everywhere, their broken pieces crumbling to the bottoms. The bugs shouldn’t be enough to make me cranky in all this beauty. Having Margot to laugh with really helped me realize how silly I was being in my frustration.

I stopped to filter water, sitting on a rock, and I started to notice more dark clouds rolling in with the previous just regular overcast clouds. Margot stopped with me, and she decided if it started raining, she’d set up camp at the next site and wait it out, since she has a permit for half dome to get to in Yosemite valley, but it isn’t for a few more days. As we’re discussing all of this.. It. Starts. Raining. Son of a biscuit eating bulldog.

It’s only a sprinkle, and she starts off ahead of me. I quickly pack up my water stuff and put on my rain jacket and pack cover, then set off after her. Down the hill, at a junction, we hug and say goodbye for now, as she goes to set up her camp and I keep walking. I’m not going into Yosemite, so I don’t have the time or food to stop so short today. Dammit. I’m already missing the hell out of her.

From where we split, almost immediately I have a water crossing that I just barrel through, because my socks and shoes are already getting wet from the rain. Then, as I’m attempting to pick up my pace, it downpours. I start the second huge ascent of the day, that goes up, levels out, then goes up again to the top of Benson Pass, at just over 10,100 feet high.

The rain is ebbing and flowing, and it’s fine. I mean, it sucks but it’s keeping the massive amounts of bugs at bay, and it’s only raining-no thunder or lightening. Until I’m almost to the top of that first part of the climb, before the leveling out bit. Lightening flashes across the sky, 4 Mississippis pass by before the thunder rumbles the entire earth. I’m stopped dead still, looking for my safest reprieve when it starts hailing as well. Fun times!

I huddle in some branches of a few thick and very large trees, that are thankfully nowhere near the highest or only trees around. I’m saved from the pelting hail coming down in sheets of their own.. reminding me of that thunderstorm back in Washington. Dip n Dots iceballs all over the place, not melting.

A few more cracks of lightening accompanied with thunder later-the hail stopped and it was only lightly raining again. I eased out of my cover and started climbing again. I’d get so far, then seek cover from more hail, hike a little more, then hunch under more branches to let the rain ease up. It was slow going. Any chance I had at getting 25 miles done before dark left my mind pretty early on during that incline.

It finally relented enough that I felt safe going to the top of Benson Pass. The clouds were all over the place-dark and scary here, blue skies over there.. the sky was very bipolar. I passed a few other hikers out, making their miles in the storm. Two guys told me if it started up again, I’d want to get down fast, because while there are a few trees, it’s pretty exposed and on a lot of rock.

I picked up my pace, crested the top, and as I started going downhill, thinking my luck had changed and it would turn out to be a gorgeous day-I heard the Thunder before I saw the lightening pass by. It was practically right over my head! Seconds later, the sky fell out and sheets of hail poured down. The trail was a river, and I was following it downhill as quickly as I could without falling.

After a solid 30 minutes of chaos, the rain eased up and the skies started to clear. I saw no more lightening. The trail was all water and mush. There was absolutely no way to keep my feet dry, so I didn’t even try to pretend I could. I sloshed through, making my way. The trail leveled out at the bottom of Benson Pass. It was already 5:30 by the time I was half way down, so I decided to just camp at a spot before the next climb.

I knew I didn’t want to camp up on a ridge, in case it storms through the night, and I knew I wasn’t going to get 5 more miles out of myself to get to the bottom of the next climb before dark. Which completely sucked, because my feet for once felt fine. My back and left shoulder are sore, but I think that’s just par for the course with this bear can.

I found a tent site and set up around 6:45. I unpacked and got into my warm layers before cooking dinner. Now, I’ve eaten, moved my bear can, and I’m all huddled up in my quilt. I’m starting to hear some sprinkles hitting my tent, so it looks like I need to close the one open vestibule I have. Dammit. I was really hoping the rain was over.

I hope Margot is ok, and staying warm. She ordered a new tent, the newer version of mine (it has zippers AND magnets! If she loves it, I may want to upgrade for the CDT!).. BUT she doesn’t get it until she gets into Yosemite Valley. We were praying it wouldn’t rain again until she got her new tent at the very least, because the one she has completely failed her after we left South Lake Tahoe.. and if she set up in that rain I walked though, she might be sitting in her own little river right now-God I really hope not.

Ok, I think that’s all I can think of for now. Time to put in my earplugs and pray for a good night, since I’m camped all alone for the first time since that lightening storm before getting to Etna. Ha. Yikes. I’m seeing a pattern here, lol! Sweet dreams, y’all.