Author: Courtney

Start: 128

Stop: 141.9

Today’s miles: 13.9

Total PCT miles: 329.7

I slept pretty dang hard.. and that 6am wake up call came way too fast. We were all up, packed, and on trail by 7, although I was really trying for 6:30. I just like my sleep! That being said, today started with a big climb again, and I wanted to be up it faster than yesterday.. because the last 2 miles of this climb is said to have sketchy snow.

The first half mile was nothing but overgrown greenery, soaking wet with dew. I was drenched within minutes, and babying my right leg so the scabs wouldn’t get reopened. It was a lot of switchbacks and once we got above the overgrowth it wasn’t too bad. There were blowdowns but they didn’t seem crazy like yesterday.

We got to a beautiful campsite and sat awhile admiring the scenery: huge mountain peaks with scattered snow and lots of waterfalls, pristine, untouched snow in patches all around. It really was something. The views from there only got better. We climbed to an alpine lake that was mostly frozen over, except around the edges. Silky went for a quick dip! Her polar plunge had me shivering so I skipped and kept hiking.

The next curve of the mountain had a downward sloped snow traverse.. nothing too crazy, but me being me: I walked and climbed down and around and up to the other side of the trail. I probably expended triple the amount of energy to go that way, but I didn’t care. There’s something about solid ground I have more trust in. DownUnda and Silky came my way, Pebbles went around too, but it a shorter distance because his long legs could reach rocks ours couldn’t.

From there we continued on to a snowfield with water rushing under it from all the melt. I was a little nervous, thinking I’d break through-but thankfully none of us did. It was pretty easy and smooth going, even for snow travel. We started up the exposed switchbacks that would lead us to the final ascent to Fire Creek Pass. Parts of all of the switchbacks were covered in snow.. and a good portion of it I was able to skirt around by climbing up the brush on the sides, between the switchbacks. They were so steep-but I felt way more safe than I would on the snow, potentially slipping to my death.. ok-dramatic, slipping to a broken bone. Lol

There was one section where DownUnda and I took the brush route and Pebbles and Silky took the snow-they got there before us, and then DownUnda slid right before reaching the trail, because it was so steep. I tried backtracking to her, the others jumped to her rescue too, and they were able to pull her up and then assist me back up as well. Fun times. From there, we walked across two traverses, one that was sort of steep, and then the highest one which didn’t feel steep at all. Thank goodness.

The other side of the mountain was also mostly snow free. We laughed and cut up the whole way from the ridge to a shady spot maybe a mile or so downhill, through some snow and then some beautiful green hillsides. The three of them glissaded down a safe hill, I did not-I slid on snow enough on accident to sit down and do it on purpose.

We had lunch together, marveling at our good fortune for passing this section when we did-10 days ago during the snow storm we had, another hiker went over this and almost the whole thing was covered completely and his videos looked terrifying. I have been so anxious over this section since first learning about it back in Stehekin! And now, we conquered it.. without even putting on microspikes!

The rest of the day was up then lots of downhill. Pretty stream crossings that were fine, and then one huge mama that about took us out at the bottom of the valley floor. We had to cross raging water to get to the trail, and there was no way around it. They scoped out the safest place to go, first Silky, then Pebbles. When he realized the river bed dipped kind of deep like 3/4 of the way across, he planted himself firmly and helped DownUnda through it, and then me, too. The water was so strong during that dip that my leg almost got swept away from me-I was so so grateful I wasn’t doing this alone. I probably would have slipped and gone for a very unfortunate swim.

The trail on the other side was a mess. Rocks and tons of overgrowth for almost a full mile. We made it to the new destination, 13 miles instead of 15, because we were all so wiped out. Silky had already started setting up her tent near 3 guys that passed us at the river bank. The sites were covered by blowdowns and one guy was basically set up on trail.. so the 3 of us made sure Silky was fine with it and we hiked on another mile to a creek with some nicer sites.

Pebbles, DownUnda and I set up near each other and left space to make a fire. We did our chores then ate dinner at the fire and had the best time. These two really make me happy, I’m glad I found them.

Now, laying in bed, im taking stock of my injuries. My left shoulder is purple from my dolphin fall yesterday. My legs are getting covered in those same sweat bumps I had on the AT, even on my knees. My scrapes hurt but are trying to heal as much as they can with me constantly getting smacked by something. My feet ache. All in all, I’m still having the time of my life though. It’s incredible out here, and I can’t believe that split second choice to jump to the northern border has worked out so well.

I still would like a hotel night soon though. This may be the longest I’ve gone without one-I’ve slept in a tent every single night since Saturday June 17. WHOA! I’m just now realizing these numbers.. that’s 13 days on my air mattress in my tent. I think it’ll be 16 before I get to town, and who knows if they’ll have a room. God, please let them have a room! And on that thought, I’m off to sleep! Goodnight!

Start: 141.9

Stop: 159

Today’s miles: 17.1

Total PCT miles: 346.8

Spectacular. That was today. Just, spectacular.

I got on trail just before 8am. There was some blow downs but otherwise the trail was beautiful pine needle ground and easy ups and downs, meandering around trees and moss covered river rocks the size of tables. Pretty early on, there was a water crossing with a bridge that was snapped in half but still standing. Margot and Marquis hadn’t caught up to me yet, so I decided to just try it out, see if it felt stable. Nothing moved as I inched downward towards the water on this broken bridge now shaped like a “V.” When I got to the middle, I ran up the other side, scared it might give out or something, like I weigh a thousand pounds.. I swear my brain thinks I’m huge.

Not far past that bridge, the trail started to climb. I was keeping an ok pace, feeling good overall. Marquis caught up to me, and then so did Margot. We continued together from here, up to exposed trail, surrounded by snow patches and water crossings. They weren’t bad, we were apparently in front of glacier peak and the sights were gorgeous. After crossing quite a few of the snow traverses that were simple but exhausting, and a few post holing into newly made streams, we decided to eat lunch out in the open on a dry patch of ground.

We had our shoes off and drying, eating and laughing, when A-Train and Drake came by! They left Stehekin on Wednesday, a day and a half after us, and they’ve already caught up to us! Haha-those few shorter days are the reason, but either way I was so happy to see them. We ended up following the two of them up to the top of the pass, sometimes skirting around the switchbacks that would make us traverse snow in 2-4 places, and sometimes just walking where we were supposed to.

At the top of the pass, we all 5 just gasped. It was simply gorgeous. The whole area we just crossed and climbed through now looks like a huge bowl with stripes of white snow and dark rock, making me think of zebras. The other side of the pass was lush and green and had mountain ranges on top of mountain ranges as far as the eye could see.

A-Train and Drake stayed at the top for a while as we continued around the corner to start our descent. I immediately yelped and came to a halt. There was a long, steep, snowy traverse with no way down and around. And when I say steep, I mean watching rock pebbles sail away from your feet down several hundred feet. The snow was slushy and I was petrified. Half way across there was some melted out ground, and then the snow continued on the other side, even steeper than here.

My fear was palpable. My heart racing, panic setting in. Margot said she’d go first. She started without her microspikes, because it was now almost 2pm and the snow was slushy.. she got to the half way point and yells back that we should wear our spikes.. while the top layer was slushy, what you sank into was ice. Cool cool. Excuse me while I die.

I put mine on and set out next, to reach her in the middle section where she was now putting on her spikes. I didn’t want to go last. I don’t know why, but going in the middle felt safer. I was shaking the whole way, Margot calling to me, calming me down, telling me to set my poles before moving one step at a time. When I got to the middle, I started off relieved, until I really saw how steep the next section was. I felt like I was going to throw up.

Margot coached Marquis across, and the three of us sat for a few minutes. Margot didn’t like the steps in the next section, because some of them had melted out to the icy ground below, and there would be no way around that part. She started making her way creating new steps. She went up in an arch and then down to meet the safe steps until getting to the other side. At one point her foot slipped-she caught herself, but I was so panicked I threw up in my mouth.

I was visibly scared. I was afraid I’d start to cry. I didn’t want to go up and then back down in the snow, because the down hill scares me so much.. so I went straight and then up to meet her steps where they came down. I went slow. About halfway across I froze, seeing where her foot slipped. I started to hyperventilate and tears welled up behind my sunglasses. Margot kept talking to me the whole time, encouraging me, telling me I was strong and doing just fine. I finally started to move again, my legs so shaky that I was certain I was about to fall-and fall a really long way. It would have probably been a survivable fall, broken bones maybe, but the greenery was so steep on the other side of the snow, I don’t know that I could have climbed back up to the trail.

When I finally made it to solid ground, I all but collapsed into a heap on the trail. I was still shaking, every limb, and all I could do was keep thanking Margot for coaching me across that mess. I wouldn’t have crossed that alone-not after my fall from Cutthroat Pass, and if she hadn’t been there-and been so wonderful, I kind of think I would have turned around. Sincerely. I was that scared.

Margot did the same thing for Marquis, and I think he was just as panicked as I was. He did wonderful though, all three of us sitting on solid ground, replaying the moments before. Margot being the badass that went first and got us across.. just WOW. And then, while still working up the nerve to continue and see what’s around the next bend, A-Train and Drake came across. They came one right behind the other, and Drake seemed to have a good grasp to keep them both from slipping. They definitely didn’t look as timid as im sure I did-they crossed pretty fast, especially compared to us.. but A-Train’s face looked like she was not enjoying this situation.

They continued on, past us.. and eventually we started moving again. We had 2 more crossings, but they weren’t quite as steep and they were definitely not as long. A man in mountaineering boots passed us before we got to those, and he said he stomped in good steps-and boy was he right. If I wasn’t still so skittish I would have walked across the traverses easily. I still took it slow though, we all did. Falling was not a risk we wanted to take.

We came to a snow crossing in a crevice of the mountainside-with fast rushing water underneath. We could see two places where people had been crossing, and the first 3 steps of the top crossing had given out and was now a giant hole. The water rushing looked deep, like the snow was way above the actual ground the water was gushing down. Margot started to panic here. Ice bridges are terrifying. If it decides to collapse, and they all do, on you.. you’re falling under the snow into the water and it’s carrying you away-with no way to lift yourself out. Cue my claustrophobia.

The bottom crossing hadn’t been broken, so Marquis decided he’d cross first, to test the safety of the snow. We told him to run across, quick feet, just in case. He did, and did fine. Then Margot, and myself. No issues at all. On we went, around some stunning mountaintops and past a pond. Marquis and Margot glissaded down a safe snow bank.. I was in my shorts and didn’t want to slice my butt, so I walked around it, lol.

From 3pm to 7pm, we hiked close to 9 miles. It was so gorgeous. Wildflowers blooming, perfect blue skies, easy climbs on the trail. We passed several non PCT hikers out for the weekend, many going to rock climb to Glacier Peak (they’re crazy). Around 7pm we hit a little bit of snow and then climbed a bit more to find the lake we were all aiming for. It was windy, and cold-the sky doesn’t get dark until close to 10pm, but this beautiful lake was definitely already in the shade.

A-Train and Drake were set up already, and so was another guy, hunkered down in his tent. We set up as quick as we could, Margot and I near each other and Marquis a little ways away. The wind was so strong, we were kind of worried about Margot’s tent.. to the point that I told her she could sleep in mine with me if she thought it would be safer. She ended up declining, but knew the offer stood if she changed her mind.

We ate dinner down by the lake, in all of our layers and still shivering. The second we were done, it was straight to bed and curl up to get warm. It is so cold and windy, even all bundled up, that I’m having to wait for the steam from my breath to evaporate off my phone to keep typing-and then every so often I have to warm my hands up before continuing. But today was too astonishing to wait to write this out. But now, I think I’m done! Sweet dreams, y’all!

Start: 159

Stop: 178.7

Today’s miles: 19.7

Total PCT miles: 366.5

I didn’t sleep that great, which sucked because it was a beautiful spot.. it was just windy, cold, and I was on a slight slant making me slide on my pad during the night. I got up to Margo already awake, her stuff all laid out to dry in the sun because the condensation from the lake came in hard. I started packing pretty quick, but we still didn’t get on trail until 7:45. It was sunny and pretty and we just laughed and had breakfast together.

The trail was smooth sailing for the first 4 miles, and somewhere in between the 3rd and 4th mile I got just enough service to call Mom, and hear her voice! I love these mountains and the simplicity and the remoteness, but I really don’t like not getting to talk to her whenever I want. We caught up and I told her about the sketchy snow situation yesterday and sent her on a mission to find us a room for tomorrow night. We’ll be getting to Steven’s Pass on July 3rd, meaning it could be booked up with the holiday and all.

Minutes after walking, I was back to my “no service” icon. Dammit. I had a big climb to distract me, so it was probably for the best, especially if we plan on making it almost 20 miles today. I turned on my garmin while hiking up that mountain, and mom messaged me saying she was able to find us beds, but it was in the next town over from Skykomish because everything else was booked up. I was worried that we’d have a hard time getting there or finding a ride, so I messaged a trail Angel whose number was listed in FarOut, and he promised to help us get there.

Mom saved the day! Once Marquis and Margot caught up I told them the news and Margot said she had tried to book a room when she had service but it was all sold out, so she was extra excited mom was able to snag us one! Heck yeah. It’s weird being in a bubble in the woods with no idea what’s happening in the world outside of that said bubble. We don’t even know how our friends only a couple miles in either direction are doing.

The hike was a beautiful one today. The ups and downs were tiring, and my feet ache like crazy, but none of it was sketchy, unsafe, overgrown, or irritating. It was mostly smooth trail with rocks here and there and only a few patches of snow that were easily just walked across. I even crossed a “Grizzly Peak” that was absolutely nothing like the one in Northern California that tried to kill me. It was pretty incredible, covered in wildflowers.

We got to a little lake around 2pm and soaked our feet a bit. We all walked out like we were going to swim.. but it was just too cold to manage it. Margot’s legs are sunburnt and the cold water was unbearable, and my sweat bumps are back (like I got on the AT) so I did get my legs all the way in to try to scrub my pores clean, but no idea if it helped any.

Starting about 5pm, the mosquitoes called out the troops and were ready to slaughter us. It was getting more annoying as we walked, but not unbearable. Around 7:30, Margot and I found Marquis at the camp trail in all of his rain gear and his bug net. Crap. Here we go. We had to rush to find a spot to set up and then quickly get in our rain gear and nets, too. They were horrible, but still not quite to the level of hell Andrea and I dealt with that day in Hat Creek.

We set up our tents, I shoved my whole pack inside and then went to talk to A-Train and Drake a minute before climbing in my tent and refusing to come back out. I even ate dinner in here. We’re all camped pretty close together, so we still talked and laughed and planned-just from our individual tents. It’s 9:46 now, the sky is almost dark, but not quite-and Marquis, set up closest to me, is apparently already asleep because I can hear him snoring just a little bit.

So, that’s my cue to roll over and do the same. We only have 8.7 miles in the morning to get to the Steven’s Pass lodge/outfitter. I’m praying they have a restaurant there too! I can’t wait for real food again. And I really can’t wait for my first bed since that crappy hotel in Seattle. Besides that one, I haven’t had a real bed since Ashland.. that feels like an entirely different trip! Whoa.

Goodnight, y’all. Let me find my earplugs 😉