Author: Courtney

Start: 1691.6

Stop: 1719.8

Today’s miles: 28.2

Total PCT miles: 1572

I am beside myself right now! I actually did it! I actually set a goal and then somehow passed it! I told myself I had to get at least 25 miles today-no matter what, and I went 3 miles more.. I don’t think that’s going to happen often, but I’m taking the win!

I tried my hardest to get up early, but managed to finally leave camp at 6:50. I guess 20 minutes is 20 minutes, but maybe tomorrow I’ll be able to leave between 6:15-6:30. That’s the hope, anyway.

The morning started off with a climb, which is why I camped where I did last night. It wasn’t a bad one, although it definitely had my heart pumping and me pausing to catch my breath a few times. On the way up, Strider passed me! We chatted a minute or two about the storm yesterday and our plans for today, and she kept cruising up the hill. She’s fast.

It was so pretty, looking out between the trees at the massive mountains I’ve already walked through some how. When I see it, it doesn’t seem possible. At the top of the climb there was a beautiful little lake and a guy packing up his stuff. For the first time I got a good glimpse of the sky.. for the forecast to be zero percent chance of rain and 100% sunny-it sure doesn’t look like it. It’s overcast and moody clouds were rolling through. I was praying it wouldn’t rain again.

I was doing great on the downhill, although it was a little more uneven than normal because of yesterday’s rain carving tiny streams down the trail. I crossed through two creeks without even attempting to rock hop-the cold water coming to just below my knees in both. The third one I was able to keep from walking through-I would say I was able to stay dry-but my feet were already soaked from the other ones.

I started the second climb and saw Strider again, she was hanging out her stuff to dry while we had a patch of sun. I was thinking I’d do the same thing at lunch-there was a little more sun poking through the clouds, maybe my prayers were heard! I kept moving and around noon, right when I was wanting to sit and lay out my stuff, it started to sprinkle.

Instead of stopping to eat, I plopped off my pack, got my pack cover on and my lunch food out, and walked and ate in the rain. Maybe that’s how I made it so far today! Haha. I think because of the cold water crossings, my feet weren’t hurting like they normally start to by this time. I felt good and the terrain for several miles was a slow descent that felt more level than anything.. so, why not make the miles while everything (besides the rain) was working in my favor?

The trail opened up to a gorgeous meadow with a river coming down the middle of it. I saw something running up ahead, and the first thought was, “wow, that’s a hefty rabbit,” before I realized it was a coyote! I recorded it and watched it awhile before continuing on.

Before too long, the rain came down in sheets again. Right when I was reaching for my umbrella-thunder boomed through the valley. I’m sure it would have been fine, but I didn’t want to chance it. It steady rained off and on the rest of the day. I kept catching myself worrying about how Margot was holding up through it all. We have no service, so I have no way to check on her. I really pray she’s warm and dry.

I powered through. The trail went by a gorgeous waterfall, Toulumne Falls, and then up the side of it to where it begins, winding to and away from the water the whole time. It was stunning. somewhere up river, where I assumed the falls excitement was over, I went to filter water. The view from there was so gorgeous I walked back to my pack to get my phone for a picture. It was surreal. The sun was trying to shine through the rain.. the different branches of the river all converged through the rocks in the same spot-I was blown away!

Praying the rain would quit, but knowing it wouldn’t, I finally broke down and put on my rain jacket. I was getting cold now. The trail went around and through some slabs of rock and then eventually down to Soda Springs and Toulumne Meadows. I had my umbrella out now, seeing how low I was compared to the giants surrounding the valley. There was simply too much rain to not cover my head better since I had the means to do so.

Soda Springs is a little spot in Yosemite National Park that has a tiny wooden “cabin” built around some of the natural cold water springs there that randomly and without explanation, bubble. I would tell you more, but I didn’t read more than that. I saw the bubbles, and kept it moving-right over to the public pit toilet bathroom that I forced myself to use, and to my delight, my body obliged! Success!

I walked to the road crossing that takes you into Yosemite Valley and then to the Yosemite Wilderness Center in a parking lot not far from the junction. I kept all my stuff on, umbrella included, and popped my head inside to ask a ranger if they happened to have PCT hang tags for my pack. When I realized there were 4 rangers just hanging out there and one of them said, “we sure do!” I squealed, dropped my stuff outside and went in to get it!

They were all so nice! We chatted about the trail for maybe 5 minutes before someone with a real need came in. I happily said bye to them and hung my tag on my pack, excited as hell to finally have one. Then, as I have all day-I started moving.
The trail merged with the John Muir Trail (JMT) here, so all the junctions and signs made me do a double take to make sure I was going the right way. I walked the next 8 or so miles along the meadow floor beside Lyell Fork River. It was so absolutely beautiful. I saw so many deer, I couldn’t keep count. I snagged a picture of one judging me for catching it peeing. It was pretty funny.

I passed tons of tents already set up and as the sun started setting, I started to panic. The site I was going to go to as a last resort was still half a mile away, but as I was coming along I saw this spot that I grabbed before the sky turned black on me. I just don’t like setting up in the dark, especially when it’s hard to find the campsites to begin with. This one seems like it’s going to be a damp one again, and it was definitely already dark by the time I started setting up everything. Sheesh.

The rain quit around 6, but my tent was still wet from last night and this morning’s condensation-which hasn’t happened in awhile. I wiped out the inside as best I could, but I think it was futile-the inside already looks wet again. Luckily it isn’t really dripping on me, so I just have to try to keep my stuff from touching the sides.

Alright, it’s almost 9 and I’m ready to close my eyes! Pray I stay warm and dry too, and send some good vibes to Margot! Goodnight!

Start: 1674.2

Stop: 1691.6

Today’s miles: 17.4

Total PCT miles: 1543.8

Let me tell you about the day I was supposed to do 25 miles, and instead only did 17. I swear, we plan, God AND this trail laugh. And boy oh boy do they laugh hard. Two days in a row of me falling short of my planned mileage, but I think it’ll be fine-food wise. Everything out here is measured and cared about in food: how much I have with me, how many days I can go with what I have, and-most importantly-when can I spend money on overpriced “cooked for me” food?! Haha

Anyway. I woke up late, smiling in my dreams as I turned off my vibrating watch not realizing what it was. I popped up at 6:38-which, in the grand scheme of things isn’t really late at all.. except I set an extra alarm last night, determined to get started earlier this morning, so I’d have a better chance at making my miles. Go ahead, laugh. Thankfully, Margot seemed just as motivated as me to get up.

I was packed and on trail just after 7:15, and I was met immediately with the not so gentle climb I was supposed to do half of yesterday. The whole way up, panting and pouring sweat, I was grateful we didn’t try to do this in the dark. With the tent sites having rules about being so many feet away from trail, it’s hard to spot them in the daylight-in the dark it’s practically useless.

The mosquitoes were out, which had me cussing. How in the hell are these bastards surviving in cooler temps? Are California mosquitoes seriously so adapted to the changing temperatures so well that they can survive to dive bomb my eyeballs to their death? Seems crazy to me. And it makes me absolutely crazy, too. Thankfully the picaridin lotion keeps them from biting-I just wish it created a foot wide forcefield around me so I didn’t have to hear them buzzing in my ears or feel them bounce off my face.

It was overcast and that worried me some. I was slow moving up the ascent, and somewhere around the top was several ponds and a stunning lake. There are so many beautiful lakes around here (I see why the mosquitoes are here, too) and it’s heartbreaking that it’s too chilly now for me to comfortably swim. I mean, I could get in-but then it would take forever to warm up and dry out. Temperatures seem to be hanging around the 55-65 degree range the last few days.

I stopped to emergently poop and on my way back to my pack, Margot caught up to me. We walked together for awhile, chatting and finally laughing for the first time today. The scenery was still just as stunning as it’s been: huge granite mountains jutting out of everywhere, their broken pieces crumbling to the bottoms. The bugs shouldn’t be enough to make me cranky in all this beauty. Having Margot to laugh with really helped me realize how silly I was being in my frustration.

I stopped to filter water, sitting on a rock, and I started to notice more dark clouds rolling in with the previous just regular overcast clouds. Margot stopped with me, and she decided if it started raining, she’d set up camp at the next site and wait it out, since she has a permit for half dome to get to in Yosemite valley, but it isn’t for a few more days. As we’re discussing all of this.. It. Starts. Raining. Son of a biscuit eating bulldog.

It’s only a sprinkle, and she starts off ahead of me. I quickly pack up my water stuff and put on my rain jacket and pack cover, then set off after her. Down the hill, at a junction, we hug and say goodbye for now, as she goes to set up her camp and I keep walking. I’m not going into Yosemite, so I don’t have the time or food to stop so short today. Dammit. I’m already missing the hell out of her.

From where we split, almost immediately I have a water crossing that I just barrel through, because my socks and shoes are already getting wet from the rain. Then, as I’m attempting to pick up my pace, it downpours. I start the second huge ascent of the day, that goes up, levels out, then goes up again to the top of Benson Pass, at just over 10,100 feet high.

The rain is ebbing and flowing, and it’s fine. I mean, it sucks but it’s keeping the massive amounts of bugs at bay, and it’s only raining-no thunder or lightening. Until I’m almost to the top of that first part of the climb, before the leveling out bit. Lightening flashes across the sky, 4 Mississippis pass by before the thunder rumbles the entire earth. I’m stopped dead still, looking for my safest reprieve when it starts hailing as well. Fun times!

I huddle in some branches of a few thick and very large trees, that are thankfully nowhere near the highest or only trees around. I’m saved from the pelting hail coming down in sheets of their own.. reminding me of that thunderstorm back in Washington. Dip n Dots iceballs all over the place, not melting.

A few more cracks of lightening accompanied with thunder later-the hail stopped and it was only lightly raining again. I eased out of my cover and started climbing again. I’d get so far, then seek cover from more hail, hike a little more, then hunch under more branches to let the rain ease up. It was slow going. Any chance I had at getting 25 miles done before dark left my mind pretty early on during that incline.

It finally relented enough that I felt safe going to the top of Benson Pass. The clouds were all over the place-dark and scary here, blue skies over there.. the sky was very bipolar. I passed a few other hikers out, making their miles in the storm. Two guys told me if it started up again, I’d want to get down fast, because while there are a few trees, it’s pretty exposed and on a lot of rock.

I picked up my pace, crested the top, and as I started going downhill, thinking my luck had changed and it would turn out to be a gorgeous day-I heard the Thunder before I saw the lightening pass by. It was practically right over my head! Seconds later, the sky fell out and sheets of hail poured down. The trail was a river, and I was following it downhill as quickly as I could without falling.

After a solid 30 minutes of chaos, the rain eased up and the skies started to clear. I saw no more lightening. The trail was all water and mush. There was absolutely no way to keep my feet dry, so I didn’t even try to pretend I could. I sloshed through, making my way. The trail leveled out at the bottom of Benson Pass. It was already 5:30 by the time I was half way down, so I decided to just camp at a spot before the next climb.

I knew I didn’t want to camp up on a ridge, in case it storms through the night, and I knew I wasn’t going to get 5 more miles out of myself to get to the bottom of the next climb before dark. Which completely sucked, because my feet for once felt fine. My back and left shoulder are sore, but I think that’s just par for the course with this bear can.

I found a tent site and set up around 6:45. I unpacked and got into my warm layers before cooking dinner. Now, I’ve eaten, moved my bear can, and I’m all huddled up in my quilt. I’m starting to hear some sprinkles hitting my tent, so it looks like I need to close the one open vestibule I have. Dammit. I was really hoping the rain was over.

I hope Margot is ok, and staying warm. She ordered a new tent, the newer version of mine (it has zippers AND magnets! If she loves it, I may want to upgrade for the CDT!).. BUT she doesn’t get it until she gets into Yosemite Valley. We were praying it wouldn’t rain again until she got her new tent at the very least, because the one she has completely failed her after we left South Lake Tahoe.. and if she set up in that rain I walked though, she might be sitting in her own little river right now-God I really hope not.

Ok, I think that’s all I can think of for now. Time to put in my earplugs and pray for a good night, since I’m camped all alone for the first time since that lightening storm before getting to Etna. Ha. Yikes. I’m seeing a pattern here, lol! Sweet dreams, y’all.

Start: 1651.3

Stop: 1674.2

Today’s miles: 22.9

Total PCT miles: 1526.4

Today was spectacular, and exactly what you’d expect on your first day walking in to Yosemite National Park, our 5th national park so far.. I was in awe all day.

We started hiking and it was a little chilly, but I quickly warmed up. It was a slow and gradual incline to the top of a pass with a beautiful alpine lake named Dorothy Lake. I ended up going the wrong way around the lake and didn’t even realize it until another hiker I had seen earlier started coming back towards me. He showed me on our app how off trail we were, so we walked back together-then skirted the lake and did a little bushwhacking and log crossing together.. instead of walking all the way back to the junction we both apparently missed.

As the trail started climbing up to the pass, around rocks and a tiny bit of snow, the other hiker got ahead of me. Just as I was wondering if Margot went the wrong way, too, or if she went the right way and was now ahead of me, I walked right into her! The other hiker passed her and let her know he and I went the wrong way and I wasn’t far behind, so she waited for me. We sat and had some snacks before moving on.

At the top of Dorothy Lake Pass, the views were simply incredible. Pictures just truly can’t capture that raw natural beauty, but they try. I was giddy and happy the whole day! The descent from the pass was also slow and gradual and easy. There was a ton of water everywhere, more lakes, some squishy areas in a meadow with a stream running beside the trail- and it was every bit as perfect as it sounds. The only thing that could have made it better would have been if my cabin was off to the side and my dogs were running out to greet me.

We stopped to eat lunch together somewhere on that downhill. While we were sitting there, talking and marveling at the beauty of this place, we both started to miss Marquis. I checked to see if I had service, and when I realized I didn’t I was bummed. Then I remembered my Garmin Inreach! I sent him a message telling him we missed him and hoped he was doing well-all while praying he wouldn’t be mad that I was using up his messages.

After lunch, Margot and I got stopped by our very first ranger! He made me show him my permit, which he thoroughly read, and my bear canister, too. Margot showed hers-and the three of us chatted for awhile about the park, the permits, weather, water crossings.. all the things. He was super nice and I was happy about having a kind interaction, so many have mentioned some rangers being kind of snippy and rude after dealing with so many people all the time, and probably not having the correct things.

Just after talking with him, we had a large stream to cross.. it wasn’t too deep, maybe mid calf high, but it was very wide.. so I took my socks and shoes off and walked across in my crocs. Margot opted for barefoot and we sat on the other bank of the stream to let our feet dry. It was starting to get late afternoon and we still had some climbing to do.. I was getting worried we wouldn’t make it to our planned site before dark.

I heard back from Marquis on the Inreach, he was doing well, made it through the Sierra and was now in Kennedy Meadows South, getting ready to start the desert. He said the sierras were cold and difficult but incredible. I’m now even more excited for the Sierra, and missing Marquis that much more. I wish we had caught up to each other!

The next river crossing had a huge log across it. I got to it first, and started across, but half way the limbs sticking up off the tree log started to snag my shorts and I got anxious that I’d fall if I continued, so I slowly backtracked and then took my socks and shoes off again and crossed in the crocs. Margot came through on the log while my feet were drying on the other side. She doesn’t wear loose shorts, so the limbs didn’t snag her as badly as they grabbed at me, and she’s way better balanced in general I think, haha.

After that last shoes off crossing, we started our first of two climbs, each one over a thousand feet of elevation gain in under two miles. It. Was. Tough. The second climb had slick rocks from waterfalls cascading down the trail, making it hard to move quick. On the descent of the second climb, there were tons of loose rocks and we ended up in our headlamps. Damn the sun for setting so early these days! And damn the rocks for slowing us down!

At the bottom of the descent, there was a valley with a fast moving creek running through it. Since it was dark already, we decided not to attempt the next climb to find our intended campsite. We’d only be a little short, and that was fine by me! We looked for campsites on the side of the creek we were on, but couldn’t see much. What I could see was that Margot’s headlamp is a hell of a lot better than mine! I thought I could see fine until she shows up and suddenly I can see another 50 or so feet! It’s nuts!

Not being able to find a suitable campsite on this side of the creek meant a very sketchy rock hop crossing of said creek to the other side to find camping. It was very sketchy, fast moving water with lots of slick rocks. I was able to make it across with dry feet somehow, and just barely.

Margot had to get her feet wet at last minute, with her legs being just a little shy of reaching the second to last rock on the rock hop. Actually “hopping” across rocks is beyond terrifying. This water wasn’t high consequence in the sense that it would sweep you away and you’d drown, but it was scary in a “it’s cold as hell, the water is even colder, and falling onto sharp, slick rocks in ice cold water would be awful” kind of way.

Across the creek, we looked for about 10 minutes for the supposed campsites. Yosemite has some serious camping rules-like you must be 25 feet away from the trail and 100 feet from water and yada yada yada.. welp, we couldn’t find any established sites like our app claimed we would. So, we did our best and found mostly flat spots on sandy gravel type ground. We’re both a little slanted. Oh well.

We set up camp, and just ate our dinner. It’s 9:45 now and the stars are outstanding. I can hear the creek rushing by and our bear canisters are stashed “far away” like they’re supposed to be. I’m a bit cold, so I think it’s bedtime. Goodnight y’all. YAY FOR MAKING IT INTO YOSEMITE!