Category: Appalachian Trail 2021

Start: Max Patch Road (AT mi 254.7). Stop: Hot Springs, NC (AT mi 274.9). Today’s miles: 20.6 miles. Total AT mileage: 1938.8 miles.

I slept wonderfully at Happy Gnomads, once I put my earplugs in. The mattress is soft and like dipping into a cloud. Getting out of that cloud completely sucked.. I didn’t get up when I was supposed to, causing Lizard and I to be a little late for our scheduled shuttle. Luckily, Jumangi didn’t mind. He drove us to Max Patch Road laughing and talking the whole way. He has such a good natured demeanor, I can’t picture him ever being angry.

We started northbound from the road crossing and had a mile to go before getting to the top of Max Patch, a gorgeous, grassy summit with nothing but 360 views of the mountains surrounding us. On the way up that mile climb, I got service and called mom to tell her happy birthday. I hate not being there on her day, but she didn’t seem to mind and was happy to hear from me.

On that summit with the views all around, one side had clouds covering but the sun was shining through them, the other side was obviously rain.. and it looked to be dumping buckets. Before we even got off the grassy patch, the sprinkles started to pelt us. Both of us quickly dropped our day packs and got out our rain jackets. A few days ago, the weather called for rain today, which was why I asked Lizard if she wanted to slack pack with me.. then it cleared up, saying no rain-clearly, it was raining now. And it was cold!

We trucked downhill into the tree canopy and kept hiking and talking and making the best of it. At some point, I started chatting and turned to realize Lizard wasn’t there when she didn’t respond. I stood a minute, then deciding she probably paused to use the bathroom or something, I kept going. Overall it was mostly downhill, but there were a few climbs thrown in, and when they appeared they were steep.

I ate my lunch on a rock at a campsite half way up one of those climbs, hoping Lizard would catch up to me before I finished. But when she didn’t, I guessed she stopped to eat around the same time I did. Our paces are so similar. I kept my jacket on most of the day, thanks to the random downpours catching me off guard. The rain did make the leaves color seem to shimmer like they were covered in glitter. It’s easy to see the beauty all around in nature, even when that nature is making things difficult.

I got to town around 4:30 and walked right to the brewery we ate at last night. I got a beer and an order of chips with cheese dip plus a burrito the size of my arm. The lady at the counter also offered me 2 beef empanadas, said they were extra and if I denied them they’d get thrown away.. not happening ma’am. I ate those and almost all of the chips and cheese dip before my burrito was even ready. I had downed my beer and was getting my second one when Lizard walked through. She ordered her food and beer, and we caught up on the day while she ate. Today’s climbs were tough for her, too.

We got picked up by Sunshine around 6:30. I quickly showered the second I got inside the house, hoping for better hot water today. Last night a guy that got there before us apparently filled up the big soaking tub in the other bathroom just before I showered, so the water was lukewarm. Today’s shower: scalding hot just like I wanted it to be! I let it heat up every inch of me before getting out.

Lizard and I put our clothes in to wash and then I laid out on my bed to work on this.. and then I got sucked into the comments section on Instagram.. about nursing no less-I was in tears laughing! When I remembered the laundry, I went out to the living area and saw that Lizard had already swapped it over to dry, and she was on the couch. She said one of the other people in the bunk room was coughing a lot so she felt safer sleeping out here.

I wished my bed wasn’t a full size and that I could have offered to let her share mine. Sharing a bed is always uncomfortable for me-like I’m afraid to breathe or move a muscle because I don’t want to disturb the other person.. so I can’t really relax. Hopefully she sleeps better there than she would in the bunk room. I hope I sleep good tonight too. As I’m typing this, my right hip and low back is aching some. Maybe this cloud is a little too soft after all. Oh well. I pray it’s nothing and it goes away by morning. There’s always something aching while hiking the AT apparently.

Sweet dreams, y’all.

Start: Spring Mountain Shelter (AT mi 285.9). Stop: Hot Springs, NC (AT mi 274.9). Today’s miles: 11 miles. Total AT mileage: 1918.2 miles.

All throughout the night, chestnuts fell from the trees above and pelted my tent. Before I put the earplugs in, it would make me jump every time one made contact. Once the earplugs were in, I slept so good.. I actually got up at 7 and got going by 8. Everyone else was still asleep, except for one of the sectioners in the shelter, who waved bye to me as I passed him.

The terrain was mostly easy going, a few small climbs but overall downhill all the way to Hot Springs, North Carolina. The trail had some pretty views, visible barely through the thick trees. There were a couple of spots to get a good view, including “Lovers Leap” and switch backs down the mountain until eventually walking along the French Broad River. The river was stunning and wider than I expected.

When I got to the road before climbing up a set of stone stairs to the bridge, a cat darted out to me and practically forced me to pet it, pick it up, and scratch its belly. I mean, I’ve never been a cat person a day in my life-but it is really starting to happen without my consent. Apparently being single in your 30s just attracts cats, regardless of your personal preference for them. They are starting to grow on me.. lord help me!

I walked through town and stopped in at an outfitter to resupply. I got my goodies and then met back up with Lizard across the street at a restaurant.. I ordered so much food and came no where near able to eat it all. Lizard struggled to finish hers too. We shared some appetizers, which didn’t make it easy for our entrees. We had jalapeño poppers, cheese sticks (homemade with meat in them), and tater tots with my hot fingers and her burger. And a beer or two, of course.

After lunch we walked over to the Hot Springs Resort and Spa. I booked a mineral spring soak in a hot tub at the spa, so we checked in and got taken back to our “spa location.” It was along the river and really serene. Our hour soak seemed to fly by, my muscles the happiest they’ve been-well, since the bachelorette weekend in the jacuzzi.. haha. It was fantastic! I was a prune by the time the guy knocked and told us our time was up. We got out and found some picnic tables to sit at and dry off-the resort doesn’t offer towels, and naturally we don’t carry one, due to the weight.

We dried out before getting our clothes back on, and then walking back to the little downtown area and going to the brewery, Big Pillow. They had live music starting soon! We got our beers and at some point got more food-tacos this time. Then enjoyed the singing and apparently stand up.. one guy got up there and started telling Halloween jokes.. him laughing at himself was far more funny than the actual jokes. It was a good time.

At 7:30, Sunshine from Happy Gnomad’s Hiker Hostel came and picked us up. We wound through the mountains for 15 minutes before getting there, to this perfect hiker haven. I got a private room, unpacked and showered, happy to be warm and dry in a cozy bed. I’m quite content here. Alright, it’s bedtime. Sweet dreams, y’all.

Start: Stealth Site (AT mi 305.3). Stop: Spring Mountain Shelter (AT mi 285.9). Today’s miles: 19.4 miles. Total AT mileage: 1907.2 miles.

Those distant coyotes from last night ended up coming a whole lot closer. At one point it sounded like they were getting butchered within 100 yard of my tent. I attempted to google “will coyotes attack a hiker in a tent” but didn’t have the service for the search to work, my screen was just blank. I had been texting Lauren, so I asked her to google it for me. Basically, I wanted to know if a pack of them found my tent, would they surround me and attack.. haha.. Thankfully, Lauren said they shouldn’t. That was all the confirmation I needed to put in my earplugs and drift off into a deep sleep!

I did, too. I didn’t wake up with any of my watch alarms. I slept until 7:30 and only woke up because of my pesky bladder reminding me I had been in my tent for almost 12 whole hours without getting up to pee. This getting dark earlier in the evening and staying dark later in the morning is really messing with my head. I’m usually a heavy sleeper regardless, but when it’s dark-I really sleep. Waking up is always a struggle, even when it’s bright outside, but attempting to get up before the sun is such an absolute struggle.

Either way, I was happy I slept well and didn’t get mauled by angry coyotes during the night. I got up, got my food bag and ate my breakfast back in my tent, sleeping bag wrapped around me, still warm. I was tempted to just lay back and close my eyes again, but instead I released the air from the mattress to make myself get moving. I packed and left camp just before 8:30. Later than planned for a long day, but not as late as it could have been if I had fallen back to sleep!

The sun was gorgeously shining through the trees just far enough away for me to see the brightness, but not feel any of it. The leaves seemed to change even more overnight, it officially feels like winter is coming.. although I hope it takes its time. When I hiked through a field on the way to the top of Big Butt Mountain, there was frost on the grass.

Speaking of Big Butt Mountain-what a name.. and a lack of exciting views. There were actually none, I even took the side trail and did a little rock scrambling to get to the actual top, and only saw the trees surrounding the rock slab I was standing on. Welp, no time to fuss over extra work with no reward.. I had some mileage to make!

From there I seemed to stay on a ridge line for a while. I had stunning views off to my left, and then came across Harold’s Rock early afternoon. Harold was a trail maintainer and active hiker, over many years he talked the others into agreeing to put “his rock” on top of this ridge line so people would have a nice place to sit while eating a snack or their lunch. While there was a sign telling me this, there was also an older man there telling me this, too. He had met Harold once, hiking past this very spot.

We both ended up eating our lunch in a different spot down off the top and in the shade. I forget his name but he was sweet and so was his dog. We chatted during my whole lunch, as I pet his pupper (that was sad I wouldn’t share said lunch with it). There was a group of 13 men (appearing to be in their late 30s or early 40s) that came through our lunch spot 1-2 at a time.. this sweet man told each one of them that I’m a thru hiker and almost done with the whole trail. He was bragging on me like we were family, and it was so very precious to be a part of. I bet his grandkids adore him.

After eating, he carried on his way and I went mine. My way ended up being a long downhill stretch that was covered by the green tunnel. It was refreshing, easy, and all around good hiking. However, that eventually came to an abrupt end.. and the climbing began.

I had 3.8 miles of hellaciously steep uphill climbing to do.. every mile or so of that 3.8 would briefly saunter off flat or slightly downhill before absolutely crushing my calves in its next ascent. It was brutal. I had to take several breathing breaks and several more “Jesus Christ, are you kidding me?!” cursing breaks. Eventually, just after 5:30, I made it to the shelter I was aiming for. If I had crossed any water before then, I think I would have stopped early, I was beat up!

The second I scoped out the camping options around the shelter, I put my tent up on a flat spot on a hill away from the shelter itself. I could see at least 3 men down at the shelter and knew it would be loud down there. I unpacked before taking my food and heading to the shelter’s picnic area. I met 3 section hikers, 2 of which are brothers and who were building a fire. It was nice to have since the temperatures were already starting to get chilly and the sun wasn’t even down yet. I had already put on my puffy jacket, wool headband and my gloves.

I walked down to the stream and got my water to filter, then cooked my dinner while chatting with the guys. Another man appeared shortly after me and joined for dinner and fire conversation.. it’s usually the same stuff with section hikers-who has hiked what and how far and how long, how much packs weigh and what gear you like.. bla bla. I stayed and chatted until I finished devouring my food- thoroughly enjoying myself and the company but I felt wiped out from the day. I got good and toasty by the fire, thanked the guys profusely for creating it.. then I retreated to my haven on the hill after hanging my food bag on the provided bear cables. I actually like the bear cables and wish they were at every shelter. It takes the stress away for sure.

I had planned on typing all of this up once I got tucked into my sleeping bag, but I’ll be honest, I hardly typed out the notes for today before passing out, phone in hand. I woke up a little before midnight and decided I’d just have to wait and type up my thoughts some other time.. sleep won in the battle of importance. I’m here to tell you, it’s getting so hard to stay awake to get this done! I love the journaling every night, having these memories to reflect on in “detail” even if it is simple detail-but dang, my body is fighting me to sleep, and some times, it just gets to win. Today was a tough one, those killer climbs at the end being so unexpectedly difficult. So, with that, I’ll try to do better.. hopefully! Goodnight, y’all