Category: Long Distance Trails

Start: 1719.8

Stop: 1738.1

Today’s miles: 18.3

Total PCT miles: 1590.3

I woke up to a very damp tent and quilt, like I knew I would.. I was also freezing! I was so cold packing up my tent that I had to stop and take breaks, breathing hot breath into my cupped hands to get some feeling back in them. I didn’t leave camp until 7:25, which was late for my first big big climb of the Sierra, but I was just too dang cold to get moving.

I was in the shade of the mountain for the first two or so miles. I had my gloves on, but they weren’t doing much. My hands were so cold that they physically hurt. I need to get some better ones, although I wish I had them now, when I need them most.

I was slow moving up that mountain to the top of Donohue Pass, at 11,073 feet. The first two miles of switchbacks were cold and steep. I kept getting passed by folks. When the trail finally came up out of the forest to exposed rocks and meadows with a large stream running down the middle, I was blown away! The views were outstanding! It was like standing in the middle of a bowl, everything above was sharp and steep and snowy, but right under my feet was lush and green and soft. Two huge contrasts, right there together. Amazing.

I had to rock hop across the stream to and then follow the trail up higher with more rocky switchbacks. There were two patches of snow but they were so easy to walk on that I didn’t even slow my pace any.. not that my pace was fast by any means. Then, I was at the top! Surrounded by 360 degree views of WOW. I was ecstatic! There was a small snowmelt pond, once I skirted around it, I got service! I took that time to rest and call mom to check in.

I was so winded from the climb, and talking with mom I realized I must have also been struggling with the altitude some, because I was spacey and had trouble keeping up with the conversation, even though I was the one trying to have the conversation to begin with. She noticed, of course, because moms notice everything.. so I downplayed it and then decided I probably needed to get moving.

We said our byes and then I went a little further before deciding to sit a little longer. I was still at the top, but in the sun, and I was just too exhausted to keep moving. And then, thankfully, Strider showed up! She sat with me and we talked a while, she started to eat a snack and I figured I needed to get a move on, when two pack ranchers came up the mountain pass with 3 horses and mules each.. like the guy was on the first horse, had 2 more behind him, and then the gal, with 2 more connected to her.. it’s always so fascinating to see these ranchers! True cowboys and cowgirls.

I asked if I could take their picture as they passed, because they looked cool as hell. They said of course, and then the woman offered me trail magic! She gave me a Shepards pie burrito! I was so thrilled! Happily taking the burrito and parking my butt right back next to Strider to eat it! It was delicious, even cold! It was by no means as good as the Shepards pie my friend, Tracy, makes-but I don’t think that’s possible to beat. (Now my stomach is growling for her Shepards pie and I reeeeeeaaaaaallllllllly wish I could have some!)

While Strider and I hung out, we watched the perfect blue bird sky start to fill with angry looking clouds. Once I realized they were heading in our direction, I finally started heading down. The back side of the pass was gorgeous, alpine creeks and streams and grassy patches all around. I was constantly swiveling my head in every direction, trying not to miss anything. The flowers were blooming and it felt like a scene from Avatar. Just unbelievable beauty.

The clouds rolling in were threatening rain my whole way down, and then finally started sprinkling on the next ascent up Island Pass, 10,226 feet. It wasn’t a hard climb, and thankfully it wasn’t as high as everything else surrounding me, because eventually the sprinkle turned into a downpour and I could see the lightening cracking across the sky towards the massive peaks nearby. It was scary, in an exhilarating “how cool! But stay over there” Kind of way.

One of the massive peaks is Ritter Mountain, which stands over Thousand Island Lake.. it is gorgeous and happens to share its name with my Andrea, so that’s pretty awesome! I screen shot her mountain with my PeakFinder app that Margot showed me, so when I get service again I can show Andrea.. and then I tucked my phone away, fearing water damage. Time to keep on trucking. I had plenty more miles to hike, and now I had someone to camp with tonight: Strider, who was already probably so far ahead of me I knew I wouldn’t see her until I get to camp!

There was a ton of water, and lots of crossings-one in which I got half way across and realized I was too short to reach the other side, so I took a step back and leapt forward with all my strength! When I landed on the other side, an older man had just walked up, and he says with wide eyes, “hell no, I’m not doing that!” Ha-I don’t blame him a bit! He trudged through the mid thigh freezing water, and I was quite thankful I made the leap successfully! Not that it really mattered, not long after that crossing I was soaked through and freezing cold from all the rain!

My hands were taking it the worst. I couldn’t even hold my trekking poles my fingers were so painfully numb.. the numb that throbs instead of loses all feeling. They were bright red and hurt, causing me to once again walk and blow my hot breath over them, attempting to warm them back up some.

I passed the stunning lake at the bottom of Andrea’s mountain, and saw many other hikers, mostly all JMTers. It was like 3pm and everyone was starting to set up camp. I wasn’t even close to where I needed to be, so I just continued trudging through the rain and occasional hail. The other side of Island Pass went down into Agnew Meadow. Literally, the second I passed the sign with the arrow pointing the direction of the meadow, the rain stopped and the sun came out!

The rest of the afternoon, everyone I passed was completely dry and looking at me sideways for looking like a drowned rat. My hair was plastered to my head, my fingers were still throbbing, I was soaked completely through, and these people all said it hadn’t rained on them all day! How temper-mental these mountains are! It was unbelievable! The trail was dry, the sun was starting to warm me up.. I was shocked!

Somewhere in that meadow, I got service again and heard from Margot! She got into Yosemite Valley yesterday! She’s dry and doing well, the day we separated she didn’t stay where she planned for long because the whole area was turning into a lake under her feet, so she actually only camped 3 miles away from me! I wish we would have just stayed together one last night. Anyway, she’s got her new tent now, and is super excited about it, plus she gets to do Half Dome! I’m so happy she’s ok.

I finally made it to camp, and got lucky to find a spot to set up my tent. There’s 7 other people with 5 other tents, and Strider is one of them. She came over and ate dinner with me after I set my tent up to dry out from last night. She cold soaks like Marquis, and she also dehydrates most of her own meals because she’s vegetarian and gluten free, making it hard to find good stuff to eat while resupplying in small towns.

Tomorrow we all plan to get to Red’s Meadow Resort. Strider has to hitch down to the town of Mammoth Lakes, so she’ll probably get an early start.. I think she plans to come back to trail tomorrow though, so hopefully we’ll meet back up. My plan is to get there in the morning and just eat at their restaurant and get a resupply, then hike out.. although, I sort of want to shower and do laundry too, since it’s all right there, and then hike out. I just don’t want to pay $28 to camp there. And I’ll be at Vermillion Valley Ranch the following day, and I can definitely do laundry there-which I’ll have a longer stretch without laundry and showers after leaving VVR, so that makes way more sense-but I’m also wet and gross-so who knows? I’ll just decide when I get there I guess! Ok, time to get warm and fall sleep! Sooner I get to sleep the sooner I get to hit food! Sweet dreams!

Start: 1691.6

Stop: 1719.8

Today’s miles: 28.2

Total PCT miles: 1572

I am beside myself right now! I actually did it! I actually set a goal and then somehow passed it! I told myself I had to get at least 25 miles today-no matter what, and I went 3 miles more.. I don’t think that’s going to happen often, but I’m taking the win!

I tried my hardest to get up early, but managed to finally leave camp at 6:50. I guess 20 minutes is 20 minutes, but maybe tomorrow I’ll be able to leave between 6:15-6:30. That’s the hope, anyway.

The morning started off with a climb, which is why I camped where I did last night. It wasn’t a bad one, although it definitely had my heart pumping and me pausing to catch my breath a few times. On the way up, Strider passed me! We chatted a minute or two about the storm yesterday and our plans for today, and she kept cruising up the hill. She’s fast.

It was so pretty, looking out between the trees at the massive mountains I’ve already walked through some how. When I see it, it doesn’t seem possible. At the top of the climb there was a beautiful little lake and a guy packing up his stuff. For the first time I got a good glimpse of the sky.. for the forecast to be zero percent chance of rain and 100% sunny-it sure doesn’t look like it. It’s overcast and moody clouds were rolling through. I was praying it wouldn’t rain again.

I was doing great on the downhill, although it was a little more uneven than normal because of yesterday’s rain carving tiny streams down the trail. I crossed through two creeks without even attempting to rock hop-the cold water coming to just below my knees in both. The third one I was able to keep from walking through-I would say I was able to stay dry-but my feet were already soaked from the other ones.

I started the second climb and saw Strider again, she was hanging out her stuff to dry while we had a patch of sun. I was thinking I’d do the same thing at lunch-there was a little more sun poking through the clouds, maybe my prayers were heard! I kept moving and around noon, right when I was wanting to sit and lay out my stuff, it started to sprinkle.

Instead of stopping to eat, I plopped off my pack, got my pack cover on and my lunch food out, and walked and ate in the rain. Maybe that’s how I made it so far today! Haha. I think because of the cold water crossings, my feet weren’t hurting like they normally start to by this time. I felt good and the terrain for several miles was a slow descent that felt more level than anything.. so, why not make the miles while everything (besides the rain) was working in my favor?

The trail opened up to a gorgeous meadow with a river coming down the middle of it. I saw something running up ahead, and the first thought was, “wow, that’s a hefty rabbit,” before I realized it was a coyote! I recorded it and watched it awhile before continuing on.

Before too long, the rain came down in sheets again. Right when I was reaching for my umbrella-thunder boomed through the valley. I’m sure it would have been fine, but I didn’t want to chance it. It steady rained off and on the rest of the day. I kept catching myself worrying about how Margot was holding up through it all. We have no service, so I have no way to check on her. I really pray she’s warm and dry.

I powered through. The trail went by a gorgeous waterfall, Toulumne Falls, and then up the side of it to where it begins, winding to and away from the water the whole time. It was stunning. somewhere up river, where I assumed the falls excitement was over, I went to filter water. The view from there was so gorgeous I walked back to my pack to get my phone for a picture. It was surreal. The sun was trying to shine through the rain.. the different branches of the river all converged through the rocks in the same spot-I was blown away!

Praying the rain would quit, but knowing it wouldn’t, I finally broke down and put on my rain jacket. I was getting cold now. The trail went around and through some slabs of rock and then eventually down to Soda Springs and Toulumne Meadows. I had my umbrella out now, seeing how low I was compared to the giants surrounding the valley. There was simply too much rain to not cover my head better since I had the means to do so.

Soda Springs is a little spot in Yosemite National Park that has a tiny wooden “cabin” built around some of the natural cold water springs there that randomly and without explanation, bubble. I would tell you more, but I didn’t read more than that. I saw the bubbles, and kept it moving-right over to the public pit toilet bathroom that I forced myself to use, and to my delight, my body obliged! Success!

I walked to the road crossing that takes you into Yosemite Valley and then to the Yosemite Wilderness Center in a parking lot not far from the junction. I kept all my stuff on, umbrella included, and popped my head inside to ask a ranger if they happened to have PCT hang tags for my pack. When I realized there were 4 rangers just hanging out there and one of them said, “we sure do!” I squealed, dropped my stuff outside and went in to get it!

They were all so nice! We chatted about the trail for maybe 5 minutes before someone with a real need came in. I happily said bye to them and hung my tag on my pack, excited as hell to finally have one. Then, as I have all day-I started moving.
The trail merged with the John Muir Trail (JMT) here, so all the junctions and signs made me do a double take to make sure I was going the right way. I walked the next 8 or so miles along the meadow floor beside Lyell Fork River. It was so absolutely beautiful. I saw so many deer, I couldn’t keep count. I snagged a picture of one judging me for catching it peeing. It was pretty funny.

I passed tons of tents already set up and as the sun started setting, I started to panic. The site I was going to go to as a last resort was still half a mile away, but as I was coming along I saw this spot that I grabbed before the sky turned black on me. I just don’t like setting up in the dark, especially when it’s hard to find the campsites to begin with. This one seems like it’s going to be a damp one again, and it was definitely already dark by the time I started setting up everything. Sheesh.

The rain quit around 6, but my tent was still wet from last night and this morning’s condensation-which hasn’t happened in awhile. I wiped out the inside as best I could, but I think it was futile-the inside already looks wet again. Luckily it isn’t really dripping on me, so I just have to try to keep my stuff from touching the sides.

Alright, it’s almost 9 and I’m ready to close my eyes! Pray I stay warm and dry too, and send some good vibes to Margot! Goodnight!

Start: 1674.2

Stop: 1691.6

Today’s miles: 17.4

Total PCT miles: 1543.8

Let me tell you about the day I was supposed to do 25 miles, and instead only did 17. I swear, we plan, God AND this trail laugh. And boy oh boy do they laugh hard. Two days in a row of me falling short of my planned mileage, but I think it’ll be fine-food wise. Everything out here is measured and cared about in food: how much I have with me, how many days I can go with what I have, and-most importantly-when can I spend money on overpriced “cooked for me” food?! Haha

Anyway. I woke up late, smiling in my dreams as I turned off my vibrating watch not realizing what it was. I popped up at 6:38-which, in the grand scheme of things isn’t really late at all.. except I set an extra alarm last night, determined to get started earlier this morning, so I’d have a better chance at making my miles. Go ahead, laugh. Thankfully, Margot seemed just as motivated as me to get up.

I was packed and on trail just after 7:15, and I was met immediately with the not so gentle climb I was supposed to do half of yesterday. The whole way up, panting and pouring sweat, I was grateful we didn’t try to do this in the dark. With the tent sites having rules about being so many feet away from trail, it’s hard to spot them in the daylight-in the dark it’s practically useless.

The mosquitoes were out, which had me cussing. How in the hell are these bastards surviving in cooler temps? Are California mosquitoes seriously so adapted to the changing temperatures so well that they can survive to dive bomb my eyeballs to their death? Seems crazy to me. And it makes me absolutely crazy, too. Thankfully the picaridin lotion keeps them from biting-I just wish it created a foot wide forcefield around me so I didn’t have to hear them buzzing in my ears or feel them bounce off my face.

It was overcast and that worried me some. I was slow moving up the ascent, and somewhere around the top was several ponds and a stunning lake. There are so many beautiful lakes around here (I see why the mosquitoes are here, too) and it’s heartbreaking that it’s too chilly now for me to comfortably swim. I mean, I could get in-but then it would take forever to warm up and dry out. Temperatures seem to be hanging around the 55-65 degree range the last few days.

I stopped to emergently poop and on my way back to my pack, Margot caught up to me. We walked together for awhile, chatting and finally laughing for the first time today. The scenery was still just as stunning as it’s been: huge granite mountains jutting out of everywhere, their broken pieces crumbling to the bottoms. The bugs shouldn’t be enough to make me cranky in all this beauty. Having Margot to laugh with really helped me realize how silly I was being in my frustration.

I stopped to filter water, sitting on a rock, and I started to notice more dark clouds rolling in with the previous just regular overcast clouds. Margot stopped with me, and she decided if it started raining, she’d set up camp at the next site and wait it out, since she has a permit for half dome to get to in Yosemite valley, but it isn’t for a few more days. As we’re discussing all of this.. It. Starts. Raining. Son of a biscuit eating bulldog.

It’s only a sprinkle, and she starts off ahead of me. I quickly pack up my water stuff and put on my rain jacket and pack cover, then set off after her. Down the hill, at a junction, we hug and say goodbye for now, as she goes to set up her camp and I keep walking. I’m not going into Yosemite, so I don’t have the time or food to stop so short today. Dammit. I’m already missing the hell out of her.

From where we split, almost immediately I have a water crossing that I just barrel through, because my socks and shoes are already getting wet from the rain. Then, as I’m attempting to pick up my pace, it downpours. I start the second huge ascent of the day, that goes up, levels out, then goes up again to the top of Benson Pass, at just over 10,100 feet high.

The rain is ebbing and flowing, and it’s fine. I mean, it sucks but it’s keeping the massive amounts of bugs at bay, and it’s only raining-no thunder or lightening. Until I’m almost to the top of that first part of the climb, before the leveling out bit. Lightening flashes across the sky, 4 Mississippis pass by before the thunder rumbles the entire earth. I’m stopped dead still, looking for my safest reprieve when it starts hailing as well. Fun times!

I huddle in some branches of a few thick and very large trees, that are thankfully nowhere near the highest or only trees around. I’m saved from the pelting hail coming down in sheets of their own.. reminding me of that thunderstorm back in Washington. Dip n Dots iceballs all over the place, not melting.

A few more cracks of lightening accompanied with thunder later-the hail stopped and it was only lightly raining again. I eased out of my cover and started climbing again. I’d get so far, then seek cover from more hail, hike a little more, then hunch under more branches to let the rain ease up. It was slow going. Any chance I had at getting 25 miles done before dark left my mind pretty early on during that incline.

It finally relented enough that I felt safe going to the top of Benson Pass. The clouds were all over the place-dark and scary here, blue skies over there.. the sky was very bipolar. I passed a few other hikers out, making their miles in the storm. Two guys told me if it started up again, I’d want to get down fast, because while there are a few trees, it’s pretty exposed and on a lot of rock.

I picked up my pace, crested the top, and as I started going downhill, thinking my luck had changed and it would turn out to be a gorgeous day-I heard the Thunder before I saw the lightening pass by. It was practically right over my head! Seconds later, the sky fell out and sheets of hail poured down. The trail was a river, and I was following it downhill as quickly as I could without falling.

After a solid 30 minutes of chaos, the rain eased up and the skies started to clear. I saw no more lightening. The trail was all water and mush. There was absolutely no way to keep my feet dry, so I didn’t even try to pretend I could. I sloshed through, making my way. The trail leveled out at the bottom of Benson Pass. It was already 5:30 by the time I was half way down, so I decided to just camp at a spot before the next climb.

I knew I didn’t want to camp up on a ridge, in case it storms through the night, and I knew I wasn’t going to get 5 more miles out of myself to get to the bottom of the next climb before dark. Which completely sucked, because my feet for once felt fine. My back and left shoulder are sore, but I think that’s just par for the course with this bear can.

I found a tent site and set up around 6:45. I unpacked and got into my warm layers before cooking dinner. Now, I’ve eaten, moved my bear can, and I’m all huddled up in my quilt. I’m starting to hear some sprinkles hitting my tent, so it looks like I need to close the one open vestibule I have. Dammit. I was really hoping the rain was over.

I hope Margot is ok, and staying warm. She ordered a new tent, the newer version of mine (it has zippers AND magnets! If she loves it, I may want to upgrade for the CDT!).. BUT she doesn’t get it until she gets into Yosemite Valley. We were praying it wouldn’t rain again until she got her new tent at the very least, because the one she has completely failed her after we left South Lake Tahoe.. and if she set up in that rain I walked though, she might be sitting in her own little river right now-God I really hope not.

Ok, I think that’s all I can think of for now. Time to put in my earplugs and pray for a good night, since I’m camped all alone for the first time since that lightening storm before getting to Etna. Ha. Yikes. I’m seeing a pattern here, lol! Sweet dreams, y’all.