Category: Long Distance Trails

Start: 459.5

Stop: 485.2

Today’s miles: 25.7

Total PCT miles: 673.1

What a day, what a day. I slept really good, for the first time in several days, maybe? I don’t know, it almost feels like good sleep is hard to come by on an air mattress on the ground, because my arms will go numb and cause me to need to roll. I got up at 6:30 and quickly packed, then headed over to get water down the side trail. Some guy parked his tent and poles right beside the log we have to step over to get to the water.. you know, the last water for like 11 miles.. and had the audacity to “huff” because we were walking by his tent. Sorry, dude, you should have picked literally any other spot in the area, and people wouldn’t be passing close to your tent all morning.

I feel like I cruised pretty well the first half of the day. There weren’t any bugs bothering me, I was listening to the end of an audiobook (The Hotel Nantucket), and things were just going well. There wasn’t really any climbing yet, besides right at the beginning and it was over before I had a chance to lose my breath over it. I was still in deep woods, and now there weren’t any lakes either.. just tall tall trees and hillside.

Around 12:30 I stopped for lunch at a road crossing, basically just somewhere flat to lay out and much and rest my feet. I relaxed and as the time inched towards 1pm, I packed up and got my pack on my back. I started to feel a little woozy, and at the same I saw Margot heading my way. We talked a minute as I tried to ignore the way I was feeling, and then she asked if I was ok, saying I looked a little pale. As she said it, I was starting to get that black tunnel vision and feel all the color drain from my face.

I plopped down, my pack still on, and laid back.. spacing a little bit but not blacking out. Once I was on the ground I immediately started feeling better. Margot was worried, of course, and dropped her pack. She quickly walked off to go to the bathroom but then came back a minute or so later and sat with me until I started feeling better. Today is hot, so I’m guessing it was just dehydration. But it was odd because I had literally been sitting for over thirty minutes, I ate and drank and felt perfect, until I stood up.

When I started feeling better we continued hiking together, Margot insisting on being behind me in case something happened. Within a mile or two we came across a swimming hole and decided to get in, hoping the cold water would help cool me down, if it was the heat causing my issues. The creek water was incredible and we ended up staying there until 3pm, swimming awhile before laying out to dry off. Again-zero bugs bothering us! It was the most glorious time, and the best part of the day.

Afterwards, I felt totally normal again! Like the almost black out business had never happened at all. We were cruising, we still had a long way to go to get to camp, but we made a plan to stop 5 miles before camp, eat dinner, and then hike there regardless of the sunlight.. and we were doing great, until suddenly I see Margot ahead of me drop her trekking poles, scream, and start hauling ass back to me. Oh shit! Snake?

Nope. Apparently only I panic like that over snakes.. she had just been stung 3 times by a hornet. She was in tears, and in a complete panic, because there were more flying about, following her. We quickly backtracked to a dirt road we had just passed, and as she was telling me what happened, tears streaming down her face, her leg on fire from the stings, I ended up fighting off 2 more hornets.. I was afraid my swatting them off her was going to make them sting one of us, thankfully I was able to smash both of them before that happened.

We had to figure out what to do, we didn’t want to go back where the hornet’s nest was, which had to be somewhere close to where she got stung and left her poles. We were on a dirt road, so we checked our maps to figure out where it went and if we could reconnect with the trail. We thought it would, so that was the plan.. road walk around and reconnect up the trail a bit, away from the angry hornets. The problem? Her poles.

She looked like she was about to lose it all over again when she thought about going to get them. I said I’d get them, and the relief visibly washed over her. I took off my pack and put on my rain gear, zipped myself in all the way, and quickly darted down the trail to grab her poles and get back to her, praying none followed me. The spot where she dropped her poles had pink tape off to the right side of the trail.. it makes me wonder if someone marked the nest.

I didn’t have any problems and none followed me back that we saw.. although we were both still a little shaken up. I took off my gear and put my pack back on. We made our way down the dirt road pretty quick-fear of the hornets returning and all. As we walked, I could see Margot’s leg getting patchy red in places and starting to swell. Shit. That’s not good. I knew it hurt, she was hyped up on adrenaline but could feel the throbbing pain down that leg so much she was starting to compensate on her other foot to relieve some pressure.

We got maybe a quarter way down the dirt road, only to come to a huge fence and gate, locked, that said no trespassing. Margot was not thrilled. I told her it would be fine and talked her into climbing around the broken fence wire off to the side in the woods.. reluctantly she agreed and we continued walking down the road, now dotted with weird buildings, a couple houses, wide fields and lots of dirt roads. It was eerie, but I wasn’t too worried. Margot was afraid someone would show up with a gun or “release their dogs,” nahhhh. I told her if anyone appeared, just start crying and we’d tell them about the hornets.

It was fine. We got to the back gate and climbed through the fencing wires in the woods, then quickly saw where the trail was and rejoined it. There was another creek and it was beautiful, but we kept moving. It was a hellacious climb, especially after I almost passed out earlier and now Margot has a swollen, throbbing leg that was just attacked. We had to climb almost 2 thousand feet in elevation gain in just over 4 miles. It. Kicked. My. Ass.

When we got to the dirt road crossing close to the top, we stopped for dinner. We went back and forth about camping there or continuing on the entire time we sat, cooked, and ate our food. Once we finished eating and cleaned up, we decided to push the 5.1 miles to where Marquis should be camping. It was already 7:50 by the time we headed back on trail, so we had out headlamps easily accessible and started moving.

We finally rolled into camp just before 10pm, that we only saw in the pitch black, because Marquis saw our headlamps and turned his on, so we could follow the glow onto the side trail to the campsites. We all three shared our day, and then completely exhausted, Margot and I got our tents up. I’ll be honest, the only reason I’m typing this all up right now is because my phone needs to charge and this keeps me awake long enough to make sure I disconnect the cords.. so I don’t drain my battery.

But even still, it’s 11:11 (I miss you, Andrea), I’m wiped the hell out, and my battery is only up to 71% so I think I’ll just risk it and disconnect the cord if I wake up when I roll over in the night. We have 20 miles to go tomorrow to the to Cascade Locks and the Bridge of the Gods.. we’ll officially be DONE with Washington state! And hopefully Curmy and Cholula will be able to come get us, but if not, we can camp at the marina and see them on Sunday. We did this section way faster than we thought we would. Originally we didn’t think we’d get there til Monday.. well, assuming Margot and I can walk tomorrow, we should be able to make it by late afternoon at the latest.
Ok, that’s all I got. Love y’all, goodnight!

Start: 485.2

Stop: 505.9

Today’s miles: 20.7

Total PCT miles: 693.8

Some mornings I catch myself wondering how “bad” it would be to just refuse to get up and hike.. I was sleeping so good, I just did NOT want to wake up! But, I could hear Margot and Marquis packing and the fear of being left behind kicked in. We did get to sleep in though, since we got in so late last night.. I got on trail around 8:30.. it was glorious!

Well, except for the fact that it was already hot. It felt muggy, which normally it’s more of a dry heat. The first few miles were rolling and strolling through greenery and along a small river bed. Marquis was finding and picking berries and teaching me about them.. salmon berries, huckleberries, and some others, one that looked like a raspberry.

Before too long, we started the climb of the day. It was hot and brutal, but mostly bug free. At one point a man told me I was cruising, so that felt nice.. but once he was out of my line of sight I was paused and sucking air like my life depended on it (because it most definitely did). There was a stretch without water, and naturally, me being the weirdo I am.. I accidentally chugged all of my water before starting the downhill. Yikes.

I was sweating like crazy, parched like I was in the Sahara desert, and there were people everywhere. Yep, it’s a town day, and a Saturday. I figured I’d cruise for real on the descent, but it was actually more difficult than the climb.. lots of rocks and exposed mountainside, blaring sun and all the sweat. Good times. When I finally got to the water source, a small stream that Marquis was at, I chugged the first liter I filtered, then filtered two more to carry with me.

I didn’t end up getting to the main road until just after 6pm. That 20 miles took forever today! I passed an older man really struggling with his gear, a way overloaded pack, and he was moving very slow.. I stopped to talk to him a second and he admitted he was out of water, so I gave him half a liter of mine, knowing one way or another, if I needed more water I’d be getting to it quicker than him. I was pretty concerned for him, but he said that was all he needed and he’d be getting back to town tonight to go through his gear and unload what he could.

Just past the road before the Bridge of the Gods, Lizard’s dad set up a trail magic area! Lizard, her dad, Pamela and Henry, Marquis and a couple I didn’t know were all hanging out and sipping some cold sodas and eating some fruit! How awesome! Since we needed to wait for Margot before crossing the bridge, I happily took a seat and had a 7Up. I haven’t had one of those in forever!

We chatted a bit and they started packing up, Marquis and I got Margot a little “to go” goodie bag and then she came around the corner! Good timing. We said bye to everyone piling up in the truck and headed towards the bridge that separates Washington from Oregon with the massive Columbia River flowing underneath. We passed a guy and a woman in front of the bridge, we get to talking a little bit-and he’s Outside Jay! One of the very very helpful trail angels that helped facilitate my Facebook post back in Northern California when I was questioning the safety of continuing in the snow or backtracking!
NO WAY!?!

We chatted a few minutes and then he took some pictures with and of us! He’s such an incredible human. He said bye to us and we went onto the bridge-that lack’s a pedestrian sidewalk or protection in any way from oncoming traffic. Across the middle it turns into grating and it hurt on my crocs lol.. oh well, it was BEAUTIFUL! Across the other side, we walked a bit further to be met by Curmudgeon and his doggie, Doc. We hugged and caught up a few minutes, chugging a Gatorade, and then piled in the car to head towards Portland.

Curmy told us Cholula was in Europe, and I was instantly sad, I was so hoping to catch up with her, too, although I assumed she wasn’t coming to pick us up with Curmy and Doc because of work or some other commitment.. I guess being in Greece is a pretty good reason for not coming though, I wish I was back in Greece, too!

Curmy gave us a tour of their home and we unloaded our stuff and started our chores. After 20+ miles of tough terrain, I was personally beat. We showered and did laundry, sat outside on the patio and took in the beauty of their gorgeous backyard.. a garden, blackberries, and a hot tub! Not to mention the best pupperoni running around, keeping us all happily entertained.

For dinner, Curmy made us bacon burgers and potatoes with a fresh salad-umm.. can we say heaven?? I never order salads at home, but something about the veggies and greenery is just so dang delicious on trail. I need to try to eat more salads in my future! His meal was immediately demolished by us hiker trash, eating every last bite-and it left me feeling like a whale afterwards, a full and happy whale.

Margot and I are sharing the bed in the spare bedroom, and Marquis is sharing the couch with Doc. Tomorrow we’re going to zero and get our resupply boxes made for some more difficult to deal with towns in Oregon, and hopefully there will be a lot of being lazy, too. I know I’m exhausted, I’m pretty sure they have to be as well. So, with that, goodnight 🙂

I was woken up by the brightness of the sun, and when I looked over, Margot was already gone. It was close to 8am. I really wanted to sleep longer than that, but I guess my body had other ideas.
In the living room, Marquis and Margot were chatting and I sleepily joined. We figured out what all we needed to get done today, happy that laundry was already checked off the list. Once Curmy was awake and ready, too, he chauffeured us around Porland.. starting with McDonald’s for breakfast. Something about it’s quick and easy fix for hunger on trail that just can’t be beat.

Next, we went to Walmart, Margot’s first time ever being in one. To all of our surprise, after being on trail this long, it was wildly overwhelming. Frequently each of us had to just stop and let the noises and crowds of people chill out a bit before continuing on. We resupplied our food for 3 stretches, one for now, and 2 to mail ahead. It’s more difficult that you know to think about what you may or may not want to eat in several weeks.

From there we ventured on to REI. I got some Peak Refuel meals and some new socks (my darn tough socks have holes now, they have a lifetime warranty, but I have to mail the clean hole ridden socks in to their company to get a voucher for a free pair.. it’s totally fine, I’ll wear them on future trips either way, so buying more now doesn’t bother me any, and I love supporting a great company. I find their socks to be amazing, last pretty long for socks worn every single day and in ridiculous conditions, and very comfortable, too. I’d honestly buy them even if they didn’t have the warranty.

I got a couple other odds and ends, including more picaridin. One thing that makes me nutty is the bugs-I have to have plenty of bug deterrent and killing options. Marquis and Margot got their fair share of things, too. Overall, our outing was successful. We went back to the house and all of us hung out on the patio outside, enjoying the nice weather and eventually organizing all of our stuff. Mid afternoon I ordered Taco Bell to be delivered, because why not?

We laid around and dozed here and there, with nighttime rolling in too quick it seemed. Curmy made us a delicious dinner of Asian lettuce wraps and noodles.. seriously delicious! Like, I want the recipe so I can have it at home, too. He really is such a good cook. I don’t know if y’all remember, but on the AT, Curmy and Cholula created the majority of their dehydrated meals. They’re quite talented in the kitchen.

We had ice cream for dessert and then relaxed in the hot tub before bed. We knew we’d have to be up early and I was already dreading it. These days pass way too fast. Way way way too fast.