Day 65: Moose Mountain Shelter

Start: Hanover, New Hampshire (AT mi 1751). Stop: Moose Mountain Shelter (AT mi 1761.9). Today’s miles: 10.9 miles. Total AT mileage: 737.2 miles


I had very busy dreams all night, although I couldn’t tell you anything about them, except the feeling busy part. They weren’t nightmares, every time I’d suddenly wake, it would be with a smile on my face.. but they definitely left me feeling tired.


I snoozed until 9am. That bed, busy dreams or not, was too comfortable to get out of. When I finally did, the headache was still there, lingering in the background, but slightly more dull than it had been. Maybe things are starting to look up! I packed and got ready to leave with surprising quickness, literally all packed by 9:23. But I took my time eating my cold pizza, plopped another 3 pieces on top of my food bag, with a container of ranch.. hoping my way of packing it would keep it intact throughout the day.


I left the hotel at 10am and the trail was literally one street over. That made life easy. The first bit of the morning was a road walk through that gorgeous college town, and then the trail turned back into actual trail right behind the baseball field. Pretty neat, really. I got winded a few times on minor hills.. but I didn’t let it get me down. I knew today would feel tough regardless of the terrain, and any miles made today would get me closer to where I need to be. My body would have probably liked another day of rest, but knowing I’ll have another zero in a few short days, along with 3 nights in a hotel helped motivate me to head out this morning.


I took my time and actually enjoyed my hike today. I wasn’t nearly as slow as I had been the few days prior to getting to Hanover, and I smiled to myself at one point thinking that I’m actually starting to feel.. dare I say it.. good. I mean, my joints-especially my hips and knees still ached all day, but my ankles didn’t feel like they were going to snap off and my hips only really started hurting after I loaded my pack with 3 liters of water for a climb up a mountain to camp.


I did take a fall to my butt sometime before noon. The trail is wet and slippery thanks to all the recent rain. I thought it was going to pour down today, per the weather app.. but it just stayed cloudy and threatening all day. I was still sweat soaked of course, but with the sun hiding behind the clouds, I was never worried about my skin exposure because of the antibiotics I’m on. So, honestly, I was grateful. The bugs were a little annoying, but not as bad as they had been, or maybe I’m just in a happier mood that I’m hiking and not laid out in a bed feeling awful that I didn’t care as much about the bugs. Who knows?


I ate some pizza at a creek crossing sometime around 1:30, and I honestly wasn’t hungry for it, but knew I needed to eat to have the energy for my last uphill. It was over 900ft of elevation gain over a mile and half, which is like a daily thing really, but knowing how I’ve been feeling I knew I’d better be cautious. Plus, toting the extra water up that incline just makes it more challenging.


I was mostly in the woods, covered with moss and pine needles. One shelter I passed was named “Velvet Rocks Shelter” and that’s exactly what all this moss covered forest looks like. Thick emerald green crushed velvet. I may end up having to crochet something with green velvet when this is done lol (man, I am so weird). When I wasn’t in lush forest, I was walking through overgrown fields. Part of me started to get anxious about ticks in this overgrown grass, but then I remembered these antibiotics will keep me safe from any new ticks for now-so this is the best time to get exposed to them.

My lunch spot


I made it to the top of Moose Mountain (South) and then down to the shelter before 4:30. It felt weird being at camp so early! Jola is a NOBO that was in the shelter when I came around. He knew my name and said Lizard had came through and mentioned I’d be coming. She had pushed on ahead of course, being that she got here to early (according to Jola lol). I really wish I had it in me to chase that girl down so we could camp together tonight. But as good as I feel, I’m also spent.


I set my tent up in a nice flat spot, and hung my wet clothes out to dry some. If it rains over night then they’ll be just as wet as they were when I took them off, but maybe smell a little less sweaty. Lol it’s only a 10% chance of rain overnight, but we all know how that goes. After setting everything up, washing my legs down, and changing clothes, I headed back to the shelter and chatted with Jola awhile. He’s so close to finishing his hike that he says he’s slowing down his mileage because he’s not ready for it to end. It’s funny that in the beginning it felt like 200 miles took FOREVER to reach, and now hundreds of miles just seem to slip by without realizing it.


I ate the rest of my pizza and drank an electrolyte drink. A couple solo people showed up throughout the hour, one set up a tent so far away I can’t see her, one set up his hammock on the other side of the shelter. I went to use the privy, a funky one that has a roof but no sides. When I came back I decided I just couldn’t socialize anymore. I said my goodnights and came to get into my tent.


My water is filtered for tomorrow and I’m laying in my tent completely content and ready for bed. I know I should wait to see if I need to pee again, but I’ll just have to get up later and handle that when the time comes. I’m going to try to see if I can push some decent miles tomorrow to stay on track to meet Andrea on time, but if I need to cut it short there’s a couple places I can do so at-although my app has them sounding very unappealing. Hopefully I wake up feeling that much better than today and can knock it out without issue. I’m going to attempt to get up earlier than I have been since I’m going to bed so early tonight.


We’ll see. I might be snoozing that watch alarm when it goes off. Haha— sweet dreams 🙂

Day 66: Jacobs Brook

Start: Moose Mountain Shelter (AT mi 1761.9). Stop: Jacobs Brook Stealth Site (AT mi 1778.1). Today’s miles: 16.2 miles Total AT mileage: 753.4 miles


I’ve really been on a “good sleep” kick the last week or so, and I am 100% not complaining! I slept soundly all night until the sun peaking through my tent woke me up after 5am. I went back to sleep, but ended up getting up at 6:30 to pee. I handled that, then changed clothes and packed. They weren’t any dryer hanging outside than they were when I took them off my body yesterday, but I’m going to pretend they smelled better because of the whole airing out deal.


I was on the trail by 7:15am and had originally planned to go 17.7 miles to a shelter. I had 2 big ascents today, one was over 1000ft of elevation gain, the other was over 2000. Ha. Good times. Surprisingly, I actually felt good though! Don’t get me wrong, my hips are still bugging me, almost like I need to be adjusted by my chiropractor.. that type of ache, and my knees hurt on the downhills, but overall, I’d say today was a win.

On the first uphill I was happily chugging along. Over half way up I got great cell service and there was a beautiful look out equipped with the perfect sitting rock, so I sat down and worked on uploading yesterday’s blog. It was a glorious 20 minute break that I was thrilled I took the time for. The rest of the way up wasn’t too bad either, shockingly. I cruise along, hardly having to stop for breathers. The sun was shining and I just couldn’t believe my luck, that I’m feeling this much better already. Thank God and science for antibiotics!


I did however fall twice. In mud. One of the times it caused both feet to be completely submerged in thick mud up passed my ankles. Awesome. I also landed on my right butt cheek, so that was also soaked in watery mud. All of this happened well before noon, and I was so annoyed with myself for tripping up, stubbing my toes, and for the falls that the second I found a semi decent rock I stopped and ate my lunch. I was barely 11am. But whatever, clearly my body needed some fuel.


The trail also went through more overgrown grass and boggy areas where almost all of the wooden planks were broken. Thankfully I didn’t fall in the thickest of the overgrown mess. It truly would have been full body and pack soaked if I did. Not to mention what I did fall in stinks pretty bad.. like I purposefully walked through a creek to attempt to rid myself of the foul smell-to no luck.


The second ascent started out great. The way the trail went up Smarts Mountain was straight up, then a little flat winding for half a mile or so (maybe more) and then back straight up until you got to the top. So, the first part really wasn’t bad. I actually passed people.. like 6 people! I didn’t know any of them and a few looked like day hikers but some definitely had the bigger packs and were either section or thru hikers. I think I was riding a high knowing I was passing folks.


It was steep trail with lots of rocks and roots. Then, out of no where, it turned into those huge rock slabs. I was cautious because parts were slick and this is the type of terrain I rolled my ankle on in New York. Also, for some reason at that point on the climb, bees took notice to me.. some type of yellowish looking bee, it didn’t look like a yellow jacket or a hornet, but whatever they were I was careful not to piss them off. I literally had 2-3 doing zoomies around my head for almost 35 minutes, and I didn’t want to swat at them for fear of being stung (one of the women I passed even made mention, “those sure do love you!” Yeah.. I noticed..). There was no water to high tail it to and jump in like in “My Girl” so I had to keep my cool.


Once I hit the halfway mark and the climb stopped for a bit, the crazy bees left me. As sunny and pretty as it was, I didn’t stay and look out at the sites much at all, mainly because of the antibiotic warning to avoid sun exposure. I was a little sad by this, as it was gorgeous enough to just sit and stare at all the mountains surrounding me. Such is life.


I started the second part of the ascent and immediately wanted to turn around and go back. It was so muddy and slippery and nothing like the well maintained first half. Some sections were steep enough to require some serious effort to push up on.. and all of it was unnerving because of the slickness. It felt like it just kept going up and up and up to nowhere. The never ending climb through mud. Sheesh.


When I finally did make it to the top, I saw signs pointing to tent sites, and then I saw the firetower. It was a stunning day, and I suspect the view from up there was mesmerizing, but I was too tired and still had over 4 miles to go, so I skipped the fire tower. A few hundred feet past there was a cabin where Jola and another hiker were. He told me I should stay, but I knew if I did I wouldn’t make it to town the day I need to in order to get the rental car to pick up Andrea. I’m on a tight schedule here, sort of.. at least tighter than feeling ok with stopping there. Lol


The rest of the day was downhill. Literally. And it hurt. It always hurts the toes and knees. And parts were still super muddy. It was sometime around the beginning of this downhill that I decided to read the comments about the shelter I was heading to, as a distraction to my pain. Literally comment after comment mentioned how bad the tenting was..Shit. I don’t want to sleep in a shelter if I don’t have to, and I won’t have to until the day after my tent gets soaked by rain.. which would mean not today!

I looked at the comments around the creeks I’d be crossing, starting from the shelter and working my way back. The one big creek had a comment about “stealth sites along the water” before and after the wooden bridge. Ok, new goal: get to a decent site before anyone else that reads this app does!


I crossed the bridge and turned left through the woods.. there wasn’t a trail, so I just pushed through the brush and limbs. Low and behold: a small campsite! Right by the water! It’s got a fire ring and space for 2-3 tents, although all of the spots are pretty root filled. I put my tent up in the most flat area I could find, and my pad will be over a root or two tonight, so I just need to be cautious when turning, that I don’t somehow cause my ground cloth, tent, and/or pad to rip. Haha-honestly, I’ve slept on worse.


After setting up, I went down to the creek, washed off and got water to filter. I soaked my feet for a while and then came back up to make dinner. My clothes are hanging out “to dry” again, and I’m about ready to head to bed. Another early night.. and another early morning, too. Because I shorted myself a mile and half, I have to tack that on to tomorrow’s hike.. so now that will be a longer day than today. But to be fair, the climbs don’t look as daunting tomorrow as they were today, so maybe this was for the best anyway.


I haven’t camped out completely alone since the beginning of this trek. It feels almost strange. But, I’ll be sleeping to the sound of the creek rushing by down below, so I think it’s going to be another night of great sleep. I hope so anyway 🙂

Day 67: Hikers Welcome Hostel

Start: Jacobs Brook Stealth Site (AT mi 1778.1). Stop: Hikers Welcome Hostel (AT mi 1794.2). Today’s miles: 16.1 miles. Total AT mileage: 769.5 miles


I didn’t sleep as well as I thought I should have..I had a couple nightmares about snakes which made no sense. I got up at 6:30 because I thought I heard rain drops. I packed so fast so my tent would stay dry, and then when I realized it wasn’t going to rain, I took my time eating breakfast. I some how didn’t leave camp until almost 7:30! Not sure how that happened, even now as I’m recounting what I did. Haha


The trail went right up immediately after leaving the brook. Mount Cube was the first ascent and it wasn’t terrible. Jola and a couple other hikers passed me early on, so much for yesterday’s success in that department lol. I met up with them on a gorgeous rocky out look half way up. They pointed out the fire tower on Smarts Mountain that we crossed yesterday. It was an impressive mountain from this view. An impressive mountain that I have already conquered. Boom.


The rest of the way up was more of the same, rocks and mud but also pine needles and moss. Stunning mixed with “what in the hell?” Before reaching the rock summit, I ended up walking back through the moss covered ground to dig a hole. Sorry Mother Nature, I couldn’t wait for a better place! Ya gotta go when ya gotta go!


At the top, I took pictures for a lady day hiking with her perfect golden retriever. Then I slowly made my way down the slippery slopes that are what we call the trail. Some how I did manage to keep my socks out of the mess today, but the ones from yesterday still stink. My shoes reek, too, FYI.

What I trampled through to poo


I crossed more boggy wetlands in between mountain, all with broken wooden planks.. and then more ups and downs but they were dramatically less daunting. I do remember thinking how sick of rock hopping over mud I am though.. and the sad thing is, I don’t think that changes any time soon. I ate lunch in one of the low spots today, after a road crossing, and knew it was a bad idea because once I stopped moving I was swarmed by bugs (it was definitely a bug net kinda day). I didn’t even finish eating because I was so annoyed with them.


I made it to a road crossing with 2 couples set up under a canopy.. giving out TRAIL MAGIC! It has been so long! Man, it was great. I sat down and they made me an excellent PB&J and I had a Mountain Dew, too! This totally made up for the crappy lunch I had. While I was chatting them up, they mentioned tomorrow’s “full rain” forecast. As they said it, I decided I was going to a hostel tonight instead of camping at the shelter I was originally aiming for. The hostel was only a mile before the shelter, and I could now slack pack tomorrow in the rain instead of hoofing over the “first mountain of the White’s” with all my gear.


I saw on the trail angel’s roster that a lot of my friends came through today.. Lizard, TBird, TownLegs, Smiles, DoubleDecker, and TieDye. So I sent out some texts to see if any of them were going to the hostel: they were ALL at the shelter I had originally been going for! Dang it! I already made my mind up to go to the hostel and be inside when the rain hits, but I did see if any of them were slackpacking.. TBird and TownLegs are! And.. one of my favorite people is doing their shuttling: Cholula! I messaged her, and she’s going to pick me up, too! Heck. Yes.


I made it to the hostel, and it’s super cute. I took a shower in the outdoor shower, and promptly picked a bottom bunk on the upstairs section of the “barn.” Then I hung out with everyone for awhile, mostly people I don’t know.. a SOBO, Doppler, gave me all the ins and outs of the whites and she looked over Andrea and my itinerary and agrees that it’s “more than doable.” She also seemed super impressed with our John Muir hike, especially when I told her how much weight we had to have been carrying back then.. we were backpacking babies. Oh, the things we learned!


Some of us got shuttled to a deli and I got stuff to eat for dinner tonight and then to carry tomorrow. Nice and easy. When we got back, I ate, paid for my stay, and retired upstairs to my bunk. It’s almost 10:30 now and it feels like 2am! Getting pictures to load is a task that requires patience.. something I seriously lack.


Now that I have yesterday’s post uploaded, I’ll save today’s post for some time tomorrow. Cholula is going to pick me up bright and early, And then I’ll get to slack pack southbound over Mount Moosilauke.. which should be an adventure in its own right, especially if it rains like they say it will. But-and this is the highlight here- I’ll be in a hotel tomorrow night!


Alright, phone is charged, lights are out, so it’s time for me to roll over and do the same. Goodnight y’all!

Doppler, SOBO thru hiker