Day 98: The Maine Roadhouse

Start: Stealth Site (AT mi 1996.5). Stop: The Maine Roadhouse Hostel (AT mi 2004.9). Today’s miles: 8.4 miles Total AT mileage: 980.2 miles


I got up at 6:35 and set to work packing. I felt this urgency, knowing I had two huge mountains to cross before I could get to town. I love the trail, but man, knowing a nice shower awaits you is more motivating than one would think. When I got out of my tent (I pack the inside first when I don’t have to rush out to pee first thing), Steak and Scout were already packed and eating their breakfast. By the time I got my tent down, they were headed out. I knew I wouldn’t see them again until I got to the hostel lol


I ate my breakfast and then headed out too, telling Mr. Shakedown man bye and good luck. He was just getting up and admitted he didn’t sleep well, guaranteed he won’t forget earplugs on his big trip!


The trail was uphill but not bad for the first mile, until I passed the original campsite I was aiming for yesterday. Then it was straight up South Crocker Mountain. It had rock steps and nothing was technically “too” steep, but it felt like it just kept going forever. Apparently this is the steepest and longest on the trail so far, people just don’t hype it up.


At the top, the trail leveled out a bit before heading down 300 feet into a valley between the two mountains. And then.. you guessed it, right back up North Crocker Mountain. That one didn’t seem as strenuous, although it too was steep. I had it in my head that once I got to the top of this mountain it was 5.2 down hill miles to town. I was just praying the downhill wasn’t as steep as the two uphills I’d conquered already.


The tops were anticlimactic. But also it was threatening rain, so naturally my views were nothing but white misty skies. That’s ok, it was so muggy I was actually hoping it would rain, just enough to cool me off some. It only sprinkled for a minute, long enough to take my pack off and put the rain cover on, get it back on and start walking again. Haha, oh well. If I hadn’t stopped, it would have down-poured.


The last 5.2 miles were mild! I was so happy and cruising down that mountain. Some spots I could actually jog a little. The chaffing rash I have started to flare up along my panty line with only 2 miles to go. I got to where I was walking bowlegged and trying to pull my undies away from my skin. It wasn’t my thighs rubbing, it didn’t feel like anything was actually rubbing at all, it was the material simply touching my skin. So, with 1.7 to go, I stopped and swapped my undies and shorts for my sleep leggings. It was instant relief.


I got to the parking lot and called The Maine Roadhouse. Jen said she was heading to come get me. About 3 minutes before she got there, the sky dropped.. and I was happy as hell for my umbrella. I huddled under it with my pack and waited.. and then a lady in a SUV whipped through that parking lot so quick! Lol She said she stepped on it when the rain started.


I’m in love with this hostel. Two friends started it, and this Jen (they’re both Jen) is from Georgia. She felt like home. I got a private room, and the bed is perfection in every way. The loaner clothes (what we wear after we shower but before our clothes are washed) are so damn comfy, too. I almost want to zero here just to keep wearing these pj pants. After my shower, Jen took me to the general store and post office. I sent some stuff home, got a pizza and drinks.


The rest of the afternoon and evening was spent sitting at a big table eating and talking. Runway, Sling, and Tinman were there, along with Steak, Scout, Luau, Proton, and their friends. Then Spaceman and NoRush appeared, too. Spaceman is thinking our rash is more of a chemical burn.. his hips look like mine, but like they did the first day, swollen and angry as hell. DirtyPasta told Hopper about the detergent, so hopefully they get a different brand.


I came up to my room around 7:30 and fell in love all over again with this bed. I tried to order me a duplex tent like David’s, but the camo color isn’t currently an option, so I emailed them to see if it will become one again or if I can special order it. The other colors seem more see through or too bright, and in a tent I prefer to leave the onlooker thinking it’s a dude inside and not me by myself. Camo does just that. While I have his and I’m grateful, eventually I will need my own.


I talked to my mom for a while and laughed and laughed. I’m so happy she’s coming to see me soon! It’s what’s motivating me to not move into this hostel and never leave. I miss her like crazy and she and I giggling on the phone like little school girls just makes my heart so much happier. I get sad thinking that not everyone has this type of closeness with their mom.. she’s literally my number one in all things. The thought of not having that relationship is heartbreaking.


Anyway, it’s off to sleep for me.. although I kind of want to stay awake to relish every second of this bed.. but that’s silly. My head seems to be swimming with thoughts today, so I have a feeling it’s going to take some time to shut it down. Hopefully not too much time. Sweet dreams, y’all.

Day 99: Bigelow Col Campsite

Start: The Maine Roadhouse Hostel (AT mi 2004.9). Stop: Bigelow Col Campsite (AT mi 2012.9). Today’s miles: 8 miles. Total AT mileage: 988.2 miles


I slept so incredibly well. The mattress on the bed I slept on was phenomenal. I should have looked at it now that I think about it. I may just have to call Jen and find out what brand it is. Anywho, I got up at 6:45 and used the bathroom before heading downstairs to breakfast.


It was a feast! Eggs, bacon, toast, fresh fruit, pancakes, and hash browns. I’m shocked I’ve lost any weight with the way these ladies at the last two hostels have fed me! Man, it’s been good. After breakfast I paid Jen for my stay and my resupply, then headed upstairs to pack. Since they have to take several trips to the trailhead because of all the hikers, I took my time. I wasn’t ready to go either way.. those pj pants almost had me tell them I wanted to zero.. I came sooooo close!


I packed, but before I changed or stripped the bed, I laid back down to work on yesterday’s blog. Why rush? Lol.. I loved every second spent horizontal! When I finally couldn’t justify laying around any more, I stripped the bed and changed my clothes. Ugh. It was so sad.


Downstairs, while waiting for others to get ready for the shuttle, I got my picture taken for their hostel wall. They just opened this season and they are doing so incredibly well. I’m excited I got to be on their wall.. and I saw SO MANY of my friends on there too! Sauce & FarOut, Lilo, Killer, Wizard, TBird, TownLegs, DoubleDecker, Smiles, Flamingo, Lost&Found, Spring, Trippin.. omg. So. Many. Friends.


Once we got a group ready, we went to the trailhead. Flow is a SOBO hiker I met last night, he’s an ER nurse, so we talked shop a bit. I don’t miss work, but I do miss the people I work with.. he was telling me with covid getting worse again, he may come off trail to do a crisis contract. I did enough of that last year and the first few months of this year. If covid somehow stops my trail, I’m sitting my butt on my couch for the rest of this year regardless.


He and another SOBO hiker set out southbound and Luau, Proton and I started north. I was technically in the lead while they stretched and got ready.. they both passed me within the first hour, Proton within like 15 minutes.. haha, the kid is quick.


It was super muggy today. I hit the trail by 9:30 and was completely soaked through like I jumped in a lake (just way less refreshing) by 10. I ended up chugging 2 liters of water before 11 and refilling both bottles. And we were just climbing to a peak with no name. Cool. It was close to 4 miles uphill to get to this viewpoint, which I actually took the side trail to. Then, a mile or so later I came to the junction that had the shelter down one path and a pond down the other. I chose the pond route for my lunch.


Once down there, Scout, Spaceman, and NoRush were there doing the same thing. Everyone had taken off the super wet with sweat clothes to let them dry out some while eating lunch. I did the same, I also got into the pond (the water looked clear) and used a bandana to splash myself and cool off a bit while my shorts and shirt air dried. I sat on a rock and ate leftover pizza from yesterday while chatting with everyone. It was a glorious lunch. And beautiful day. Hot, but better now.


Originally, my goal was to only get to this pond/shelter for the night. But, after spending an hour there, even after the others left, I decided I had it in me to hike on. They were all going at least another 10, I was considering doing 3.. and if that went by fast-maybe 6 total.. but I was 100% not aiming for the 10. It was already 2pm and that would get me coming in to a full shelter and trying to set up my tent late. No thank you.


So. From there, I had to go up and over the horn (another horn, you’d think they’d give it a different name). It was another steep climb, but not really technical at all. It was just so humid again. On the way up Bigelow West Peak, I could sense that rain was coming. Something about it suddenly feeling that much muggier and clouds rolling by that you just know the sky will break soon. I decided to pick up my pace and huff it out so I could get over the peak before the rain hit.. initially concerned only with slick rocks on the downside.


I was literally 0.2 miles from the exposed rock summit when I heard a crackle of thunder and saw the flash of lightening. I stop dead in my tracks and hunched down in the middle of the trail. Then, immediately as my knees bent to hunch, the sky dropped buckets on me. I turned and headed as quick as my feet would carry me back down to bigger tree coverage. I was literally at the sign saying to stay on trail and not trample the fragile alpine flowers when all this happened.. aka: right in the danger zone.


I was standing off trail amongst the bigger trees when I see the water turn the trail in front of me into a river. About 10 minutes later, as quickly as it came, it just stopped. And the sun was shining. I came out of hiding and started back up, cautiously. I made it just a bit further than before, right by a high rock cairn, when just ahead two lightening bolts cracked across the sky at the same time. The thunder came before I could get the one out for one Mississippi. I turned around and sat in the trail, as it felt like the lowest point I could get to in that second. I waited a minute, and then took my pack off, set it and my poles beside the cairn-covered them with the rain cover, and darted back down trail to the safety of those bigger trees.


I had my phone with me, TownLegs had messaged me checking in on my lovely detergent rash. I chatted with her a while and she unknowingly calmed me a bit and confirmed I made the right choice to wait out the storm where I was. I then called and talked to my mom for awhile. When ya got service, you take advantage.. even in a thunderstorm apparently.


I waited there for almost a full hour before creeping slowly back to my pack. The weather app said more storms will come later, but there will be an hour or so lull in between. But to be mindful of wind gusts up to 50 miles per hour. Hmmmm. So, at 5:45pm I treaded lightly to my pack, put it on.. stared a bit, then made a dash for it. I was 0.1 miles from the rock summit here, and only 0.4 miles from the campsite between the 2 Bigelow Mountain peaks.


Between where I was standing and the summit, the wind was coming in huge waves attempting to blow me off. I almost lost my rain cover, I snatched it as it went to go flying.. as I tucked it into my waist belt, I realized during it’s almost departure off West Bigelow, one of my empty 1L smart water bottles was blown off into the abyss. I stopped and tried finding it, but it was a lost cause.. it could be in Canada by now lol


I strapped the only other water bottle I have in a little tighter, then carried on.. quickly as possible while crouching low to not get blown off myself. I snapped a quick picture of the summit sign then darted down the trail to the tree line. Apparently I am capable of moving quicker than I thought on wet slippery surfaces. Who knew? Lol I let TownLegs and my mom know I made it safely to the other side and to camp.


I found a flat spot for my tent back behind a caretakers building that’s all boarded and locked up. Technically im supposed to be set up on a tent platform, but with the storms coming through tonight, I decided I’d risk a magical person appearing to make me move in order to have my tension on the tent safely staked down.
I then made the trek to get water, with my one water bottle.. lol. It was uphill on trail 0.2 from where I set up camp. It’s annoying to know I’ll have to do that same uphill tomorrow morning, and it’s a lot of boulder scrambling, too. Lovely.

Once I got back, I filtered my water and took my food down to a tent platform to sit and eat my food a little more comfortably than on the wet ground or in my tent. While in the process of making that move, a man showed up. I showed him where the tent platforms were and we chatted while I ate and he set up. He was coming up the other Bigelow when the storm hit, just father down.. haha. How fun has today been?


Now I’m all set up in my tent, he’s just down the way a bit and we’re the only ones here between the Bigelows listening to the rain and wind whip through here like we’re teenagers in trouble. The tent is holding up steady and I’m nice and warm. I was so hot earlier today, and then after getting soaked through with the rain, I got chilly. Now there’s a chill in the air with the wind.. which is all perfect for me because I sleep better when it’s just a little cool.


Speaking of, that’s exactly what I plan to do now.. goodnight y’all.

Day 100: Flagstaff Campsite

Start: Bigelow Col Campsite (AT mi 2012.9). Stop: Flagstaff Campsite (AT mi 2022.8). Today’s miles: 9.9 miles. Total AT mileage: 998.1 miles


Today was, in a word: incredible. And it being my 100th day on trail makes it all the sweeter. The wind whipped all night, but it only lightly sprinkled until about 10pm. With all the wind, the outside of the tent was dry by the time I woke up.. which wasn’t until a little after 7:30am. It still felt cool outside of my sleeping quilt, so I stayed put until I was sure the sun was up and going to be beaming on me. My clothes were still soaked, and the thing about having one pair of shorts and one sports bra: if they’re wet, you’re wet, too.


I got out to pee, then got back in to eat breakfast in my cocoon. Then slowly packed everything I could before having to take off my camp clothes and get into the wet ones. I’ve decided I don’t like my short sleeved shirt. It bunches under my arms and annoys me throughout the day. So, I did wear my long sleeves, but everything else was the wet stuff from yesterday.. including my socks. I have a few more days before town, so no point in making both pair of socks wet.. yet.


I finally left camp at 8:35, and moved slowly up to the peak of Bigelow Avery Peak. It felt like an incredibly short climb, and I had to remind myself that it was only this easy and short because I slept in between the two peaks. When I got to the top, it was stunning views all around. Ski mountains one way. The mountains I had crossed another way, and lakes upon lakes the other way. 360 degrees of gorgeous no matter which way I turned my head. It was so pretty, in fact, when I realized I had service I sat on a rock wall and worked on uploading yesterday’s blog.


When I posted it and soaked up a bit more views, I forced myself to get my pack on and continue walking. I now had a decent descent to maneuver, and then climb up and over Little Bigelow Mountain.. which in comparison looked small but wide on the elevation map. I had started this day 3 miles ahead of my initial plan anyway, so I really had no actual goal in mind for where to stop. I could go 8 miles total and get a bunk at a hostel in town, I could go almost 10 to a lake, 15 to a shelter.. today’s options were endless. I decided I’d just see how I felt when I got somewhere. But one thing was certain, I had to get off this mountain.


I started the downhill and it had moments of slick, hold onto the trees to not slide down a rock face, brace for dear life.. but they were short sections surrounded by beautiful, thick wooded forest with huge moss covered rock boulders. It was serene.. and for a Friday, I really didn’t pass or get passed by many people. At some point mid morning I started listening to an audiobook. I’m enjoying it.


On the uphill of Little Bigelow, I decided the second I found a semi decent rock or stump or fallen tree log, I’d stop for lunch. I was maybe 0.1 from the summit when it came, and I didn’t even care to wait to see the summit sign first. I stopped and ate my peanut butter tortilla.. it gave me a little heartburn, but not as bad as in the beginning.. so maybe the weight loss is helping me in that department.


After lunch I continued on, at a “can’t be bothered” pace, listening to my book. I snapped pictures when the views came, I meandered, I enjoyed. At some point at a shelter, the one everyone stopped at yesterday except me, I got water from a fresh spring that was super cold and even more refreshing. It’s a little annoying to only have one bottle.. I chug and then have to filter again instead of having one filtering while I’m catching up on my water intake. Even so, I took my shoes off and sat a while, aired out my toes from my wet and very disgusting socks.


Once I crossed the road that the hostel picks up at, I saw that I didn’t have service. That makes that choice an easy one.. plus I really don’t need another town stay at this point. All I’d want to do is get another water bottle and wash my socks.. haha. I just kept walking. I came across the “pond” that looks as big as a lake. The water is crystal clear and so gorgeous. There was a sandy beach, but I continued on the trail, excitement brewing.. I decided after seeing that water that I’d go to the campsite listed on my app, find a tent spot, and go for a swim!


Which is exactly what ended up happening. I walked around the pond on trail for maybe half a mile before I came across some tent sites. Dirt pads down in the woods. I continued, just in case something else was better up ahead-but then ran into a couple tenting.. so I turned back, wanting to make sure I got my spot early, especially on a Friday afternoon. It was 4:30 when I found my spot. It was down a hill a bit more than the original I saw, slightly out of view from the passerby’s on trail, more flat, and closer to the water. After I set up the tent, I walked down to the water with my camp clothes, food, and water bottle in hand.


I had an entire beach to myself! It was absolutely beautiful! I laid out my shorts and long sleeve hiking shirt to air dry, then promptly got in the water. I was nervous about leeches, but this water is super clear so I decided it was a small risk. I had my lighter in my food bag if it came down to that. Another hiker told me that you hold a flame to the leech it releases itself. I swam, floated, and washed my body. It felt so freeing! Then, I sat out on a big rock on shore to dry.


When I started getting hot, I took off my undies and bra (to lay them out to air dry) and got into my camp clothes. I continued listening to my audiobook, gazing off along the waters, watching birds fly and ducks squawk. I cooked and ate my dinner sitting on a piece of what appears to be driftwood. Once done, I went back to camp to throw my bear line, seeing how I’m the only one nearby and there’s water so close.. and unpacked the rest of my gear so when I come back for bed, it’s all set and ready to go.


I brought my headlamp with me and decided that I’d sit on the beach and watch the sunset. It’s already darker back at the tent than it is down here, but I don’t want to leave this serenity just yet. Even if I am tired. So, I’ll sit here a while longer, listen to my audiobook, then gather up my clothes and go to bed. Today has been just one of the best of days. The terrain looks pretty smooth sailing from here, too. A couple minor blips on the elevation profile, but nothing major.


I hope y’all have a Goodnight, and the sweetest of dreams.