Category: Pacific Crest Trail 2023

Start: 1758.1

Stop: 1775.3

Today’s miles: 17.2

Total PCT miles: 1627.5

Man, I really need Marquis here to keep me on budget. All it took was one cold boat ride to VVR and I’m paying for a cabin for the night! WHEN THERES FREE CAMPING. Send help.

There was definitely more lightening last night, but it must have been on the other side of the mountains from where I was. It never rained, and if it did thunder, I couldn’t hear or feel it over the sound of the rushing creek nearby. Which, I don’t mind for a second. It was windy enough to keep the condensation from settling, so I was happy to wake up to a dry tent-inside and out! AND the wind didn’t knock down my tent, so it was a successful night!

I was not thrilled as to how I woke up.. at 5:45am someone or someone’s alarm did such a loud “cock a doodle doooo!” That a man in a tent also nearby screamed.. like it scared him so much he literally screamed! I think a normal person would be annoyed and then realize they’re awake and start packing. *I* was so annoyed that I refused to wake up to someone else’s alarm, even if mine also vibrated on my wrist at the same time. I didn’t actually start packing until 6:30, leaving camp around 7.. and there was still a tent left behind! I wasn’t last!! (I think it was the screamer lol).

My morning started with a climb, of course. Same song and dance here people. But, it wasn’t too bad. It was like two rounded off humps, I’d climb awhile, it would sort of level out, then go down, repeat x1. The sun was shining way up higher than where I was walking, clearly not high enough to shine over the massive mountains surrounding me. My one new glove (thank you random stranger & mamoo) kept my right hand nice and warm, so it held my trekking poles and my left hand just had to deal with it.

The views were fantastic, as they’ve been.. in between the two humps were lakes, which were breathtaking. And plenty of water crossings. One that got my feet wet. There I passed a couple putting on camp shoes to cross in and I just plowed through.. no one has time for shoe swapping when there’s a ferry to catch this afternoon! Haha I could tell on their faces they thought I was nuts.

They passed me at some point on the second downhill, and then I caught them again at the bottom, before the big ascent of the day. They were taking a break and I assumed they’d catch me again on the uphill. As I climbed, I passed 3 people before getting half way up. That same couple passed me again when I stopped to filter water. They made a comment about how I just seem to keep going and going without breaking, and she called me the energizer bunny.. I found this hysterical, because I never pass people, especially climbing mountains.

I did pass them again when they stopped for a break about a mile before the top of Silver Pass (10,778 feet, but the high point we crossed over was 10,934 feet), when they stopped for a break. At almost the very top of the high point, there was a chunk of snow to climb. It would have sucked to slip on it, but it didn’t seem overtly dangerous. I didn’t put on microspikes and felt steady. I ate my lunch at the top, and then passed 3 women on the start of the way down.. I’m really liking all these JMT hikers out here making me feel fast! Haha

The descent started off gorgeous, with multiple lakes and shockingly beautiful views. It eventually turned into rock and sand switchbacks which hurt my feet and slowed me down, each step down feeling like a shock to my kneecaps. The couple ended up passing me around here. There were a few waterfalls and a couple creek crossings-water was everywhere. When I finally spotted a good place to pee, without being near any of the water sources, a band of men on horseback came through. I stood up so fast! I don’t think they noticed what I was about to do!

There were at least 6 men and about 8 horses.. the horses without humans on them had some gear packed on their backs. They were headed my same direction, so I waited for them all to get 2-3 switchbacks down, and I finally got to pee in the corner of one of the switchbacks-in full view of anyone coming or going. I just prayed I was fast enough to not put on a show.

At a junction at the bottom of the switchbacks, a side trail split off to take you to Vermillion Valley Ranch. A mile and a half down that side trail, there’s a little sign for the ferry. I met up with the couple again and we walked that last bit together. There were tons of people sitting out on the rocks waiting for the ferry! It was 4pm and the ferry comes around 4:45.. so, I had some sitting to do, and I was quite happy about it!

I even had some service! I was chatting with my friend, Victoria, updating her on my adventure and whatnot-and she sent me money to buy the WiFi at VVR! How freaking sweet! I was so pumped. When the ferry appeared across the glassy blue water, I got to meet Paint, the driver. He was super kind, loaded us all on, packs in the middle.. and said he was going to give the late ones five extra minutes, just in case they’re close by.

It was a 30 ish minute ride across a massive Lake Edison. Mountains surround the lake and my God, it’s just gorgeous. I sat beside a man named Gary, who comes here with his buddies every year to fish up in the mountains.. they were the ones on horseback that passed me earlier! The guys leading the horses dropped the men off at the ferry, and they rode the horses the 7 miles back to VVR. How neat.

When we got off the boat, we had a little welcome by a sweet lady calling herself the greeter. She explained how the resort worked and then lead us up to the store. We each got one free drink, beer or soda or whatever. They create a tab for each person and you pay for everything when leaving. I was able to snag this cabin, the last bed available.

I asked the details of the WiFi: $25, only works at the store/restaurant (so not at my cabin or the laundry house), and all power shuts off from 10pm to 7am regardless, WiFi router included. It was already almost 6! I still had all my chores to do, eat dinner.. there was just no way I was going to pay that and basically only get to use it for maybe an hour, two at best. Dammit. So, I decided I’ll venmo Victoria her money back, since I didn’t use it for what she intended me to. The gesture is seriously so damn kind though.

Anyway, I ordered my food: a double cheeseburger and fries. They didn’t have many options. But it was delicious all the same. I ate quick, then went to my cabin, plugged in my power bank: if power shuts off at 10pm, I need that baby full! I’m about to walk into 7 full days of hiking and no bail out spots-I need power!

I showered, and loved every single second of it. I think I’ll take another one in the morning before I leave. I put on my puffy jacket and my leggings and headed off to do laundry. Luckily, a washer was open so I didn’t have to wait. While everything was washing, I did my resupply, but as I’m here thinking about it, I’m pretty sure I didn’t buy any lunch food.. I’ll have to rectify that in the morning. I put everything in the cabin, then went to put all my clothes in the dryer. While clothes were drying, I sat around the bonfire outside and chatted with some other hikers and folks just visiting the area.

I kid you not, the second my clothes were dry, I was saying goodnight and walking to my cabin. It’s right on the water and it’s beautiful and rustic. It’s 9:05 and Im barely able to keep my eyes open anymore. The bed is super comfy and the top cover feels maybe like a weighted blanket. Im pooped, but overall today was a great day!

Tomorrow, I plan to get up and shower again, pack all my stuff up-figure out the lunch situation, eat breakfast at the restaurant, and catch the 9am ferry back to the ferry dock. I’ll have to rehike the 1.5 miles to the junction, then continue south..
I’ll go over Selden Pass tomorrow and I want to get as close to the river crossing as I can before camping-so I can do it first thing in the morning. It’ll be cold as hell then, BUT it’ll also be the lowest it will be all day, so hopefully it won’t come up to my stomach like a girl at the bonfire said it did on her.. YIKES. She’s got a couple inches on me too. I’m nervous, y’all. But that’s a day after tomorrow problem, so no reason to worry about it now I guess. Ok, goodnight!

Start: 1738.1

Stop: 1758.1

Today’s miles: 20

Total PCT miles: 1610.3

Ok, trying to make myself type this up when I’m cold is tricky.. but it’s just 9pm and I know I can make it happen, plus I kinda want to stay awake a little longer to see if those flashes I saw were lightening, and if it’s about to storm. It doesn’t seem like it could be anything else, but I literally see stars shining above me from all sides of my tent-soooo-I’m confused. Ha, nothing new there, huh?

I was the last awake out of all the campers there this morning, that’s also not shocking. I left camp around 7:15, just after the couple that I chatted with yesterday going up Donohue Pass. Everyone camped with me is going into Mammoth Lakes, a town they’ll have to hitch into from Red’s Meadow Resort. I think Strider is planning to come back to trail today though, so maybe I’ll see her again within the next few days.

The hike down to the broken bridge was an easy one. Five miles of mostly downhill, wooded terrain. I passed a couple parking lots for other trailheads and for other pack ranches with horses. The horse poop is real! But it’s sort of nice, because if you’re seeing horse poop, the trail is pretty tame and easily passable.

I told myself when I got to the broken bridge, if my feet were already wet, I’d ford the river.. and then get to do laundry and shower today at Red’s Meadow. If I got there with dry feet, I could take the road walk alternate, but I shouldn’t do laundry today and I can wait until tomorrow. I was shocked when I got to the broken bridge, because 1. I had dry feet even though I rock hopped over several creeks and 2. It popped up way faster than I expected it to.

So, I road walked. Two miles into it, I was regretting it. The inside of my heels hurt, and hurt all night last night, although I can’t spot anything wrong with them. It had to be from 3 days of walking in wet socks and shoes. But, they were tender and the asphalt is way less forgiving than the soft pine duff. Oh well. I was happy my feet were dry.

I got to Red’s Meadow at 10:45 to realize the restaurant doesn’t open until noon for lunch. I was slightly sad, but I did want to eat their lunch and not their breakfast, so I figured that was fine. The resort has everything right in a little area: restaurant, store, shower and laundry house, bathrooms.. and in the middle are picnic tables. I used the bathroom, put my stuff to charge at the outlets by the showers, and went into the store.

It looked so bare! There was hardly anything in there! Apparently the resort has to close early, September 18, because of road construction. So, they’re trying to get rid of everything without replenishing anything else. I grabbed some skittles, and AlpineAire freeze dried meal, and 2 poptarts, for my resupply, and the a Gatorade and a Dr. Pepper plus a cookie for now. I’m glad I was already planning to go to Vermillion Valley Ranch (VVR) tomorrow, otherwise I’d be sticking my thumb out and trying to hitch into Mammoth myself.

I sat at a picnic table and ate my cookie while paying bills and checking out my finances and whatnot. I talked to Mom and generally counted down until noon. I had 1 bar of service, but it was handling more than I thought it would. Now that I’m thinking about it, I should have tried to get a post up. Whoops! Missed opportunity for sure!

At 12:02 I ordered a double cheeseburger and macaroni salad with an Arnold Palmer.. I wished it was a John Daley, but hey-it was still delicious. I devoured that burger like my life depended on it.. and the macaroni salad was wonderful too. It had chunks of celery and carrot in it, which really set it off nicely. There were tons of JMT hikers about, very few PCTers, and several day hikers around. One JMTer joked around with me about how fast I put that burger down, saying he couldn’t have captured it on camera it was gone so fast. Lol. What can I say? I like cooked for me food!

Around 1pm, I packed my stuff, got my charging things, and headed up trail. I checked in with Aunt Kathy for a bit before I lost service. I was telling her how my hands are so dang cold in the mornings that it takes like 2 hours before I can feel them. I need better gloves. Maybe VVR will sell some, or have some in a hiker box. When we were talking, it made me think of her mom, who I consider my grandmother. She always had gloves on her hands because she was so cold, and I know she’d whip me up some nice gloves if she were still alive and knew my hands were cold out here. I really miss her, so very very much.

Whew-ok-anywho, the trail was uphill after Red’s Meadow, the first mile or so in exposed burned area, but from several years ago. And then it went, still uphill, into some woods. It switchbacked its way up on loose sand and dirt with the standing trees more sporadic than the ones fallen all over the ground: however, as many downed trees as there were, most were not blocking the trail. They have some serious trail maintenance folks in this area.

Eventually the trail came up to a height that, even through the trees, you could tell you were up there. The mountains all around were stunning and snow peaked, while this one was shaded from the trees. It got a little rocky and then descended some into a gap between mountains with a creek running through it.

I passed two men camped right by the creek, then log walked across the creek and went to look for a campsite. There were several people already set up, and I knew others were coming behind me more than likely, so I was anxious to get a spot. I found one. Probably the most precarious one yet. Right under a tree, hardly wide enough for my tent, surrounded by buried or embedded rocks-so much so that one of my tent stakes is just wrapped around 3 rocks.

I made it work, and hopefully there’s no storm tonight. I haven’t seen anymore of what I thought was lightening.. so maybe there won’t be. I ate my dinner sitting on a patch of grass by my tent, not wanting to over do getting in and out of it, incase the whole thing collapses. While I was setting up, I found a smart wool glove! Just one, but it’s clean and fits! TRAIL MAGIC! I manifested it, or Mammo, Aunt Kathy’s mom heard me complaining about my cold hands! Although, I do plan to see if anyone is missing it, maybe I’ll find its match in a hiker box at VVR or Muir Trail Ranch. If so, I’ll leave a comment on FarOut and offer to mail the pair back-but until then, I’m wearing the one! Lol

I’ve worked out my Sierra plan.. if I can manage it, it’ll be 7 days starting the morning I leave VVR. There’s a big mountain pass every day, some days 2 passes, and one day will also have a sketchy river crossing because of another bridge that broke over the winter with the excessive snow. Mount Whitney is factored into this too. I think I’ll have to really start making myself get up early early, like 4-5am on some of these hard days, and maybe 2:30am on Whitney day, but if I do it, I’ll be grateful at the end of the day, because while it’s cold in the mornings and nights, there’s a higher risk of storms in the afternoons-and you do not want to be on exposed mountain tops in a storm. Also, that being said, I pray everything goes smoothly. One bad storm can throw a wrench into this plan so fast. Ugh.

Ok, thinking about all of that is stressing me out. Time to catch some ZZZs and hope I can manage to wake up decently early tomorrow! Goodnight!

Start: 1719.8

Stop: 1738.1

Today’s miles: 18.3

Total PCT miles: 1590.3

I woke up to a very damp tent and quilt, like I knew I would.. I was also freezing! I was so cold packing up my tent that I had to stop and take breaks, breathing hot breath into my cupped hands to get some feeling back in them. I didn’t leave camp until 7:25, which was late for my first big big climb of the Sierra, but I was just too dang cold to get moving.

I was in the shade of the mountain for the first two or so miles. I had my gloves on, but they weren’t doing much. My hands were so cold that they physically hurt. I need to get some better ones, although I wish I had them now, when I need them most.

I was slow moving up that mountain to the top of Donohue Pass, at 11,073 feet. The first two miles of switchbacks were cold and steep. I kept getting passed by folks. When the trail finally came up out of the forest to exposed rocks and meadows with a large stream running down the middle, I was blown away! The views were outstanding! It was like standing in the middle of a bowl, everything above was sharp and steep and snowy, but right under my feet was lush and green and soft. Two huge contrasts, right there together. Amazing.

I had to rock hop across the stream to and then follow the trail up higher with more rocky switchbacks. There were two patches of snow but they were so easy to walk on that I didn’t even slow my pace any.. not that my pace was fast by any means. Then, I was at the top! Surrounded by 360 degree views of WOW. I was ecstatic! There was a small snowmelt pond, once I skirted around it, I got service! I took that time to rest and call mom to check in.

I was so winded from the climb, and talking with mom I realized I must have also been struggling with the altitude some, because I was spacey and had trouble keeping up with the conversation, even though I was the one trying to have the conversation to begin with. She noticed, of course, because moms notice everything.. so I downplayed it and then decided I probably needed to get moving.

We said our byes and then I went a little further before deciding to sit a little longer. I was still at the top, but in the sun, and I was just too exhausted to keep moving. And then, thankfully, Strider showed up! She sat with me and we talked a while, she started to eat a snack and I figured I needed to get a move on, when two pack ranchers came up the mountain pass with 3 horses and mules each.. like the guy was on the first horse, had 2 more behind him, and then the gal, with 2 more connected to her.. it’s always so fascinating to see these ranchers! True cowboys and cowgirls.

I asked if I could take their picture as they passed, because they looked cool as hell. They said of course, and then the woman offered me trail magic! She gave me a Shepards pie burrito! I was so thrilled! Happily taking the burrito and parking my butt right back next to Strider to eat it! It was delicious, even cold! It was by no means as good as the Shepards pie my friend, Tracy, makes-but I don’t think that’s possible to beat. (Now my stomach is growling for her Shepards pie and I reeeeeeaaaaaallllllllly wish I could have some!)

While Strider and I hung out, we watched the perfect blue bird sky start to fill with angry looking clouds. Once I realized they were heading in our direction, I finally started heading down. The back side of the pass was gorgeous, alpine creeks and streams and grassy patches all around. I was constantly swiveling my head in every direction, trying not to miss anything. The flowers were blooming and it felt like a scene from Avatar. Just unbelievable beauty.

The clouds rolling in were threatening rain my whole way down, and then finally started sprinkling on the next ascent up Island Pass, 10,226 feet. It wasn’t a hard climb, and thankfully it wasn’t as high as everything else surrounding me, because eventually the sprinkle turned into a downpour and I could see the lightening cracking across the sky towards the massive peaks nearby. It was scary, in an exhilarating “how cool! But stay over there” Kind of way.

One of the massive peaks is Ritter Mountain, which stands over Thousand Island Lake.. it is gorgeous and happens to share its name with my Andrea, so that’s pretty awesome! I screen shot her mountain with my PeakFinder app that Margot showed me, so when I get service again I can show Andrea.. and then I tucked my phone away, fearing water damage. Time to keep on trucking. I had plenty more miles to hike, and now I had someone to camp with tonight: Strider, who was already probably so far ahead of me I knew I wouldn’t see her until I get to camp!

There was a ton of water, and lots of crossings-one in which I got half way across and realized I was too short to reach the other side, so I took a step back and leapt forward with all my strength! When I landed on the other side, an older man had just walked up, and he says with wide eyes, “hell no, I’m not doing that!” Ha-I don’t blame him a bit! He trudged through the mid thigh freezing water, and I was quite thankful I made the leap successfully! Not that it really mattered, not long after that crossing I was soaked through and freezing cold from all the rain!

My hands were taking it the worst. I couldn’t even hold my trekking poles my fingers were so painfully numb.. the numb that throbs instead of loses all feeling. They were bright red and hurt, causing me to once again walk and blow my hot breath over them, attempting to warm them back up some.

I passed the stunning lake at the bottom of Andrea’s mountain, and saw many other hikers, mostly all JMTers. It was like 3pm and everyone was starting to set up camp. I wasn’t even close to where I needed to be, so I just continued trudging through the rain and occasional hail. The other side of Island Pass went down into Agnew Meadow. Literally, the second I passed the sign with the arrow pointing the direction of the meadow, the rain stopped and the sun came out!

The rest of the afternoon, everyone I passed was completely dry and looking at me sideways for looking like a drowned rat. My hair was plastered to my head, my fingers were still throbbing, I was soaked completely through, and these people all said it hadn’t rained on them all day! How temper-mental these mountains are! It was unbelievable! The trail was dry, the sun was starting to warm me up.. I was shocked!

Somewhere in that meadow, I got service again and heard from Margot! She got into Yosemite Valley yesterday! She’s dry and doing well, the day we separated she didn’t stay where she planned for long because the whole area was turning into a lake under her feet, so she actually only camped 3 miles away from me! I wish we would have just stayed together one last night. Anyway, she’s got her new tent now, and is super excited about it, plus she gets to do Half Dome! I’m so happy she’s ok.

I finally made it to camp, and got lucky to find a spot to set up my tent. There’s 7 other people with 5 other tents, and Strider is one of them. She came over and ate dinner with me after I set my tent up to dry out from last night. She cold soaks like Marquis, and she also dehydrates most of her own meals because she’s vegetarian and gluten free, making it hard to find good stuff to eat while resupplying in small towns.

Tomorrow we all plan to get to Red’s Meadow Resort. Strider has to hitch down to the town of Mammoth Lakes, so she’ll probably get an early start.. I think she plans to come back to trail tomorrow though, so hopefully we’ll meet back up. My plan is to get there in the morning and just eat at their restaurant and get a resupply, then hike out.. although, I sort of want to shower and do laundry too, since it’s all right there, and then hike out. I just don’t want to pay $28 to camp there. And I’ll be at Vermillion Valley Ranch the following day, and I can definitely do laundry there-which I’ll have a longer stretch without laundry and showers after leaving VVR, so that makes way more sense-but I’m also wet and gross-so who knows? I’ll just decide when I get there I guess! Ok, time to get warm and fall sleep! Sooner I get to sleep the sooner I get to hit food! Sweet dreams!