I didn’t sleep too bad, on my first night on trail without my friends, my one complaint was that I was hot, all night, frequently kicking off my quilt completely, then missing it, covering back up only to kick it off again. I didn’t want to get up, and didn’t until 6:30. I knew today would be a hot one again, in this head wave, but I couldn’t make myself get up a second earlier.
As I was packing up my tent, a deer walked over followed by her baby. The mama started licking where I had gone to pee earlier, yikes, sorry girl. Then, another deer and baby came walking up and the two mamas got into a boxing and kicking match over my pee. For a minute I thought I was still asleep and dreaming because it was so comical and all less than 20 feet from where I was packing up.
The climb from camp was another 2000 feet of elevation gain, and I was glad I waited to do this today and not last night. It was much cooler in the shade of the mountain than it would have been last night, even though I was still pouring sweat at 7am. I felt slow and shocked that this is how horribly I’m doing after 1100 miles of hiking. This climb is kicking my ass!
At the top there was a side trail to water, and I desperately needed more. I left my pack and then realized more deer were around and one was creeping awfully close to my pack-probably to lick the salt from my sweat on the straps. I rushed with the water and scared them all away when I yelled at the one getting close.
The day only got hotter as I walked. After that first climb was finally over, it was up and down, across ridge lines and over rocks. It got more beautiful, scenery wise-being able to see far out into the distance, mountains upon mountains. Quite a bit of the trail was through burn zones, so even when there should have been shade, there wasn’t. I loved the views but I felt very slow and my sense of accomplishment was diminished every time I checked my phone and realized I hadn’t gone very far at all from the last time I looked.
I basically stayed under my sun umbrella for the majority of the day. When I decided I was hungry enough for lunch, I just flopped on the side of the trail, barely out of the way for the few northbound hikers that passed by. It was so hot and I was so frustrated. I tried to pep myself up, but the heat was just too draining.
Within the last 4 miles of trail, the wind started blowing and clouds covered the sun. The relief given to me from that temporary shade was immense. I was getting nervous though, high on ridge lines and burn zones with storm clouds rolling in. It was starting to get dark when I passed the first of two little lakes a quarter mile apart. No one was at this one, and I knew at least the two couples I met yesterday would be at the next one if not here.. since after the lakes, camping options were slim.
It was dusky dark and I didn’t know how many more people may be at the next lake, I quickly set up camp at this one. It wasn’t as high as I had been, but after I was set up, I worried that I made the wrong call-because of the wind and clouds rolling in. But, as I was having these thoughts it was already dark. So, too bad. I’m staying put. I unpacked inside my tent and actually had the vestibules closed tight, expecting rain but also hoping to limit some of the wind gushing through.
I ate my dinner in the dark, forcing myself to finish everything because I’m just so dang exhausted. And now, as I’m laying here typing this, there’s a ton of lightening going across the sky, but no thunder and no rain-yet. I feel like it’s coming and I’m a bit worried up here, this high by myself. I think I’ll put my earplugs in and try to sleep, that way I won’t know what all is going on out there. Just like an ostrich with its head in the sand! Ha! So, sweet dreams, y’all.
Ha. My ostrich plan did not work out so well after all. I was shocked awake at 1:46am by lightening so close that it felt like it ripped through my tent. It was so bright and electric, every hair on my body, arms, legs, head, seemed like it was standing at attention. I was lying flat on my back now, pressed into my sleeping pad, and before I could even think to start counting 1 Mississippi, the entire world around me rumbled from the thunder.
I was so afraid, strikes kept coming and the thunder, too.. I even had fears of the rocks around me coming crumbing down on top of me with the way the ground was shaking from it all. It was CLOSE. Then, I started to smell a damp smoky smell. My immediate thought was, oh shit, the lightening is catching the forest on fire! I was in a complete panic, trying to force myself to think rationally, which isn’t easy when you’re tired and scared. Within minutes, rain came. Big, fat drops now pounding my tent.
When I went to sleep, my tent was staked out nice and tight, expecting some rain or something with the way the sky looked, now, the pressure of the rain and the wind whipping through there like it had an axe to grind, my tent suddenly looked very flimsy, seconds away from blowing away in the storm. I felt very unsafe.
So, I started packing my things, in the dark because the lightening was so frequent and so bright, I didn’t need my headlamp. I kept smelling that damp burning wood smell, so when I did eventually turn on my headlamp, and realized there was indeed NO smoke inside my tent, I paused my packing. I looked outside my closed vestibule, crouching to look farther than I could see from inside, and I saw nothing that looked like it was burning. Maybe the rain was helping?
I kept my stuff packed, but laid out in my tent. I figured I was ok, enough right now-it would be worse to leave in an active storm and hike uphill into a burn zone with zero safety or coverage. I was almost 15 miles out from town and the majority of that appeared to be along ridge lines in burn zones. I decided to wait the storm out, once it passed I’d shove everything in my pack, and go. I debated pushing my SOS button just to have someone official tell me I wasn’t in a forest fire-but I thought better of it, I didn’t want to tie someone up responding to me if they had other people to worry with. I did turn the garmin on though, just in case I needed to push that SOS button in a hurry.
It rained and stormed for 2 more hours, and towards the end of it, I guess it lulled me to sleep. I woke up at 6 wondering if I dreamed it all.. then I saw my packed stuff next to me, nope. I put everything in my pack and and broke down my tent, barely still staked into the ground. It was calm outside, no wind, no evidence of any rain or any storm. The sky was sightly hazy, but nothing that made me think I was going to walk into a blazing forest fire when I turned the corner.
I started hiking, and a couple miles in I caught up to the couple from Washington I met the other day. They said they were freaked out last night too. That made me feel better. When they stopped for water I kept moving. I was smart to not leave last night, nothing but burn zones and exposed ridge lines and then back into burn zones, all the way to the road. It was beautiful though, in its own way.
I got to the road just before 1pm and a trail Angel was there waiting for me, along with another SOBO couple I’d never met before. I messaged the Angel when I was at the top of a climb, so I’d have a ride into Etna. That lady drove like a bat out of hell! I was actually scared I might die in her SUV after surviving that storm last night, how tragic. I swear it felt like she was taking those mountain curves on two wheels. I may have even squealed a bit.
When she safely delivered us to Dotty’s, a burger joint in Etna, California, I definitely let out an audible sigh of relief. We survived! I quickly ordered a mushroom and Swiss burger, and a large drink, with fries and all the dipping sauces. Margot had told me once that there are two types of people: people that eat dry food and people that eat wet food, and since I’m a dipper-god I love sauces-I’m a wet food person. I miss her.
I ate my food then walked next door to the dollar general. It was too overwhelming in there to think about my resupply. I just grabbed a drink and some laundry detergent, then walked next door from there to the laundromat. I changed into my rain gear in a little back office that was I unlocked and unoccupied. I was sweating so much already, but I had to do laundry before walking to the other end of town, where free camping and quarter showers were located.
I got my stuff washing, and then sat on the bench to look up stuff on my phone. 108 degrees. No flipping wonder I was so miserable! I saw that there was no end in sight today for the heat, so on a whim, sitting there with sweat now beaded up on my eyebrows and upper lip, running down my back, I called the motel down the street. The man said he just had a room cancel, so it was all mine if I could stay on the phone a minute while he unblocked it in his computer and then he’d book me in it! I took it as a sign!
I finished my laundry, dressed in the office again, and went back to dollar general. This time, I got shampoo and conditioner, more drinks, and walked to the motel. He checked me in quick, telling me he had already turned the air on for me, and I quickly made my way down to my door and completely unloaded in that room. It was GLORIOUS! And only 3pm, so I still had plenty of time to get my chores done.
I showered and relaxed on the bed. Close to 5:30, I walked back to Dotty’s, and ordered chicken tenders to go, with all the sauces of course. While I waited for my order, I walked over to dollar general, for the 3rd time today, and resupplied. I finally had relaxed my brain enough to focus on what I needed to buy. My food was ready by the time I got back. Perfect!
Back in my room, I relaxed in the cool air, worked on posting my blog entries, and watched Law and Order: SVU, naturally. I caught up with mom, and planned out my next few days. That is, until I get a message from Margot. She was camped 8 miles from the California/Oregon border, and had just gotten a notification on her phone about being close to a wild fire.
I start researching: the wildfire was from the storm I was in early this morning. It’s called the Head Fire, and because of how quickly it’s growing, they’re closing the roads and issuing a mandatory evacuation of Seiad Valley! Omg! Margot could smell smoke, and it seemed closer to her than me now, since I was driven down into Etna. She was asking me if she should hike back.
I was terrified for her. I reached out to BigMama, who is home from her trip and knows the area so well. She said Margot should definitely try to get back to Callahans Lodge as soon as she can. I relayed the info, and Margot packed up and started to night hike back the way she came.
During all of this, we were coming up with a plan. BigMama was planning to go to Fish Lake tomorrow to get my box and mail it to Andrea, who Id be seeing again in Truckee, in 2 weeks.. now, she’d go get my box, then pick up Margot and some other hikers bailing the fire, and bring them all to Etna! Then, Margot and I would spent the night again in Etna, decide if it’s safe to go south from here the following day, or take the bus and some trail Angel rides to Old Station where Andrea and I left off.
So much is happening so fast! It’s crazy how quickly things change. I’ll be up talking with Margot and praying she stays safe while she hikes, I’m grateful she has service! I think that’s it for today though. I’m so worn out. Looks like I get an unexpected zero tho, so that’s still a win. Goodnight!
I slept in until 10am! I loved every second of it, too. I still had sleep voice when I called Derek, the motel owner, and asked for another night. He said right now the motel was booked because of the fires.. but if I’d wait a bit, he’d call to verify if the CalFire guys needed all of the rooms they
reserved, and then he’r let me know for sure. I got up and started packing, assuming my luck had run out and Margot and I would be camping in the free campsites in town later tonight. Around 10:30, Derek called back and said he could rent me my room again! I was so happy I flopped back on my bed and laid there for another 15 minutes.
Eventually, I decided I was hungry and walked to the cafe in town. It was smoky outside. I got a breakfast burrito and talked with other hikers. I went to the post office, the new socks mom sent didn’t arrive yet, crap. And then I went back to my room to relax. I decided I didn’t want to hike south from Etna in all of the smoke, several hikers I talked to said they turned back because it was so thick and difficult to tell where it was coming from. Yeah-no thank you.
I reached out to Mark, the trail angel that helped me out of the snow in Dunsmuir. The bus would take us to Dunsmuir tomorrow, but then we’d need to get a ride to Old Station. Mark said he was at Dotty’s! No way!? I walked over and we talked. He was doing some shuttling with other angels to get hikers out of the fire. He was coordinating with BigMama today too! Who was on her way with Margot and my box! Yay!
Mark introduced me to Noelle, who had helped me figure out how to get to Seiad Valley back in June. She would pick up Margot and I tomorrow in Mount Shasta, at the bus drop off area, and take us halfway to old station, where another angel, Dennis, would take us the rest of the way. This network of people so willing to help hikers is truly unbelievable. I’m so very thankful to them all.
I walked back to my room, worked on the blog until 3:30, then went back to the post office to see if my socks arrived. They didn’t. BUT, the outfitter in town did exchange my hole ridden socks through the warranty exchange they offer, so I got a brand new pair of socks anyway. And the ladies working there were so kind! Actually, everyone in this town has been beyond nice, including stopping their cars to ask about my hike, and to wish me good luck on my journey as I walk down the road. Pretty neat.
On the way back to the room, Margot and BigMama arrived! Along with 4 other hikers. We all hugged and took pictures before they departed and Margot and I walked into the sweet bliss of the cold cold air conditioner. She showered and unpacked, then we went to Dotty’s for dinner. My 4th time there was just as good as the first two! (I didn’t eat anything when I came over to talk to Mark, I just got a soda). This time I got the
western bacon burger, and I have ZERO regrets! We made it back to our room and laid out on the beds, talking over the last couple days apart and the plans going forward. Marquis got to Fish Lake today, but not early enough for BigMama to snag him and bring him to us. His legs are both hurting pretty significantly, so he’s planning to get to Ashland and then revisit the physical therapist. I’m really praying he gets better soon!
Ok, that’s all I got. We get to sleep in again, the bus to Mount Shasta leaves at 11:45, and I have to run by the post office again to see about my socks. Otherwise, sleep sleep sleep! Haha! Goodnight!
