The Unpolished Princess

Start: Gravel Springs Hut (AT mi 958.7). Stop: Stealth Site near Pinnacle Picnic Area (AT mi 938.8). Today’s miles: 19.9 miles Total AT mileage: 1254.3 miles

I slept so good last night that I was startled when my watch started vibrating at 6:30 this morning.. I definitely turned it off and waited until 7 to get moving. I packed up as quietly as I could and walked to the shelter to get my food and eat breakfast. Section Hiker Matt didn’t appear to even stir with my racket, so I was happy I didn’t wake him.

I left a little before 8, and started the day off with my bug net on. The plan was to just wear it until someone passed me.. from either direction, really, so they’d be the home destroyers and I’d be spared the sticky webs. The only problem with that plan was that I saw not ONE SINGLE SOUL on the trail today. I mean, I saw people.. at the restaurant I got lunch at, on the side trail to get to it, at road crossings and a picnic area.. but literally not a soul hiking on the AT.

Normally, that would be the highlight of my day! No peopling! However, I was a spider web removal service of one for 19.9 miles of the AT today. It was beyond irritating. And I kid you not, I’d hit one about every 20-30 seconds. At one point, to cure my boredom I actually counted the seconds.. 29 was the highest I got to before having to start over. It felt like I played that little game for eternity.. but I’m sure we’re talking like 5-10 minutes, tops. Lol

Anyway, the trail itself was gorgeous. I’m loving the terrain so much (minus all the charlottes and their webs). It’s actual TRAIL. I’m still mesmerized by it, really. That I can walk and the only reason I “have” to stop is to catch my breath or pull of webs from my fingers.. not because I have to figure out how the hell I’m supposed to climb up that. Going uphill I just charge forward, occasionally pause to catch my breath or take a swig of water, and then keep it moving! It’s phenomenal.

Around 10:30 I got to Elkwallow Wayside, which is a camp store with Shenandoah National Park souvenirs, camping supplies, and a little convenient store/grill. The grill didn’t open until 11am, and I was wanting something hot for lunch, so I hung out at the picnic tables outside in the sun for the 30 minutes. It was so nice! I even laid out on the grass for awhile and stretched, too.

I ended up ordering a pulled pork sandwich with coleslaw, and a side of fries with a soda for some caffeine. The sandwich was most definitely no where near the best I’ve ever had, but ya know what? I didn’t care, it was hot and it was decent enough for me to eat every single bite. It did have me thinking about wanting to visit Memphis, TN and trying their BBQ. My friend Dominique is from there and mentioned how good their BBQ is before. Might be time to try it out when I finish this thing..

After I finished devouring my food like a bear was going to snatch it from me at any second, I cleaned up my mess and headed back to the trail. I somehow picked the wrong side trail and ended up bushwhacking to the actual AT. Whoops. Back on trail, and with a few new scrapes from briars, I was on my way. A little after 1pm I had to stop to dig a hole, and when I got back to my pack, I realized I had service, so I sat on a rock and uploaded yesterday’s blog entry. Other than that, I practically didn’t stop moving for the rest of the day.. and my feet are currently fussing at me because of it.

I passed the shelter I was aiming for at 4pm. The comments mention that the water supply is down a steep side trail over a quarter mile. I decided if I was going to huff and puff anymore today, it would be over the next mountain and not for something that doesn’t even count towards my mileage. Plus, I still had some water to get over that beast. On the other side of The Pinnacle, there was a picnic area with tables, bathrooms, and running water. It was 2.3 miles away, and then the comments section said that there was a great stealth spot 0.1 past that area. That was my goal now.

So, I pushed forward, and snapped some pictures. When I finally got to the campground around 5:30 I almost had a limp because of how sore my feet were. I used the bathroom, delighted in washing my hands with proper soap and water, and then filled up my water bottles. I sat for a minute at a picnic table, then decided to leave my stuff and go check out the stealth site before toting everything that way. I was worried that either it would be a crappy site, some person magically appeared to take it, or it would be too open to set up right now, since technically the picnic area is a no camping zone.

As I walked down the AT though, the trail passed a “backcountry” sign, telling me that I could only camp if I had a permit, which I do-so that alleviated the worry that a random ranger would appear and make me take down my tent. I eventually found the spot, a perfect grassy area with great bear hang tree limbs nearby. So, I walked back and grabbed my stuff. I set up the tent, hung my bear line, and ate dinner.

Mom called while I was eating, so I chatted with her awhile. She went with Uncle Keith, Aunt Kathy, and her side of the family to Fort Morgan to spend a week at the beach. Talk about making a girl jealous! I wish I had the time to just hop on a plane and show up. But sadly, these miles won’t get completed if I keep taking time away from them.. lol

After dinner, I cleaned up, hung my food, and got changed into my sleep clothes before unpacking everything else. I’m actually pretty cold right now as I watch the sun setting in a huge orange glow. Through the trees I can see the sun, a row of pink sky, and the blueness of the mountains in shadows. It’s crazy how green trees can look blue from a distance. I’m assuming that’s how the Blue Ridge Parkway got its name.. the hills in the distance fade from shades of green to shades of blue and grey. It’s stunning. Too bad it doesn’t show up as beautifully in pictures as it does with the naked eye.

It’s not even 8pm yet and I’m ready for sleep. I think I’m turning in early tonight, and maybe I’ll wake up earlier tomorrow.. doubtful, but, I guess if I don’t then my body must need the sleep. Goodnight y’all. Maybe I’ll dream of being at the beach and hearing the waves crashing.. maybe you will, too.

Start: Stealth Site near Pinnacle Picnic Area (AT mi 938.8). Stop: Lewis Campground (AT mi 918). Today’s miles: 20.8 miles. Total AT mileage: 1275.1 miles

The wind howled all night long, whipping and swirling around my tent, occasionally so loud it would wake me up through the earplugs. I didn’t mind it though. David’s tent is a beast in the wind-not one part going slack with the beating or coming loose.. if anything it was the tension cords smacking into the tent I heard. I remember waking to the chaos at one point and just smiling as I rolled the other way, knowing I was safe right there in that glorious tent. The one I ordered for myself still hasn’t shipped, which is fine.. I just pray nothing happens to his while I’m using it, or he’ll be getting my new one.. lol

I got up at 7, even though I tried to force myself to get up earlier, since I knew it would be another long day, but I just couldn’t do it. The sun getting up at 6:45 is both a blessing and a curse, because clearly I’m incapable of getting up without it, if there’s not a big ole Katahdin to get to.

I packed and ate my Poptart breakfast. Then hit the trail by 7:45, again with my bug net on. I had a sinking feeling today would be another day of spider home wrecking with no reprieve. Luckily and completely unexpectedly, I ran into people hiking the opposite direction by 9:15! A trio! Heck YES!! And, even more exciting than this, I realized at this moment that I was close enough to make it to the Skyland Resort Restaurant with time to sit down for second breakfast!

I start practically running, well-not really running, but this odd speed walk that had a slight bounce to it that meant I was in a hurry. The ground was smooth and so well maintained that I even glanced at the maps a little on my app WHILE doing my awkward speed hike. The app comments say they quit seating customers for breakfast at 9:30, it was 9:29 when I halted to a stop at the hostess stand.. sweating, my pack outside, only my wallet and my cellphone in hand-mask on my face.

The lady didn’t come up to me until 9:33 and I knew for a fact I’d probably lose my mind if they didn’t seat me.. simply because I rushed and I made it, they just chose to ignore me for 4 solid minutes while I caught my breath and panted like a COPD patient about to lose a battle to the disease. Thankfully, for everyone involved, but mostly for me, she sweetly sat me at the window with a gorgeous view of the mountains.

I ordered coffee, orange juice, water, blackberry French toast, bacon, and cheese grits. Im here to tell you I scraped every last dish clean. I considered licking the rest of the syrup off of the plate, too, but then remembered I am in a public restaurant and that would be slightly embarrassing. I used their bathroom, twice, and got the sweet lady to fill up my water bottle for me. I also sat at that window and uploaded yesterday’s blog.

Around 10:15, I finally left my glorious breakfast haven and started walking again. I expected to have to put the bug net back on, but there were people everywhere today! I didn’t use it again all day long! The trail was gentle, even when climbing over mountains. The views were gorgeous and I took every small side trail to every single one. I saw some great stealth spots on the tops of some of those mountains, too.. what a pretty place to fall asleep!

Not far from the restaurant I passed by a barn with horses in a large fenced in “pen.” I was going to just keep walked by, but one of the horses met my eye and walked to the fence, so I backtracked to meet the sweet fella and pet his beautiful face. Horses are such incredible creatures, I’m usually quite nervous around them, because of their size and strength being so obvious, their muscles on display for anyone with eyes to see. But this horse just seemed kind, and like he needed his snout rubbed and to be called a good boy. So, he got it. It was harder to pull away from him than I expected.. he didn’t seem too mad that I left without giving him a snack, either, which was probably the only reason he walked up to me to begin with.. see, the goodest boy!

Just after 1:30 I came to the Big Meadows Campground and Resort area. I thought they were in the same building, so I just got a soda from a venting machine and sat at a picnic table to eat some of my lunch I’ve been carrying: a tortilla PB&J.. those things are heavy to tote, so I was glad I didn’t realize they had an actual restaurant, too, that I could have ordered a hot lunch at.

As I ate, I saw a deer in the field, caring not even a little bit about all of the cars and people around. I emptied my trash and headed out again.. then passing the actual restaurant and refusing to let myself go inside, because I knew I’d find something to buy. The trail stayed perfect all day long! There were some parts with rocks that made my almost 20 mile day feet hurt, but again, I think they’d have hurt at that point either way.

I walked and listened to an audiobook, snapped pictures and just thought about how incredible this life is that I’m living. I’m in the woods, enjoying my hard earned mileage, and I’m happy. I’m not crying because I couldn’t save the life of someone younger than me, or the mother of someone my age, or someone’s grandpa. I’m not so stressed out that my anxiety causes tunnel vision and makes me feel like I’m going to pass out at times because people “just don’t get it” and can’t relate to what I do for a living, and the personal toll it takes on your heart and soul on any given day.

My most irritating or infuriating or inconvenient thing to happen at all in the last few days has been getting smacked in the face with sticky spider webs-and now-THERE AREN’T EVEN ANY OF THOSE! It’s surreal. It’s beyond my wildest dreams that this is my life currently, while simultaneously being the one thing I always knew I’d eventually be doing.

Anyway, as I was less than 2 miles from the campground I was aiming for, I saw a man hiking ahead of me. I picked up my pace to catch him, hoping it was Jerzy, and luckily IT WAS!! I was so happy to see him! He was aiming for the shelter, just before the campground and I talked him into coming to the campground instead. I was getting a site either way, so he might as well come stay with me!

We hiked together and chatted about any and everything, and then we passed a huge black snack that naturally had me freaking out. Jerzy even did the “they aren’t dangerous..” speech. Don’t care, they’re way too damn big! A little bit later we found the campground and set out to find an open spot that would house his hammock and my tent.. a little tricky in a drive up campground. Finally, after maybe 15-20 minutes of searching, we found the perfect spot for him to hang his hammock and for my tent to be in flat grass.

I went to the kiosk and paid for our spot, then walked up a hill to the camp store. I knew it would be closed at 5 and it was just after 6 now. I just wanted to peek in the windows and see if there was anything in there that I’d want to stick around for in the morning when they reopened at 9am. There were two gentleman drinking a beer and rocking in rocking chairs on the porch. I politely said my “hi” to them and told them what I was doing. One of the guys said, “well if you’re wanting anything right now, I’ll let you in to buy it.. I don’t mind..” OMG!

So naturally, I got 2 beers, a Gatorade, and a soda! The beer for now, the soda for the caffeine in the morning, the Gatorade to pour into my water bottle to sip on tomorrow. When I got back to the campsite, Jerzy was already set up and was chatting to a guy that was quizzing him about the AT. I started setting up my stuff, so then the questions were turned to me. We all 3 chatted and worked on chores.

The guy left us when Jerzy and I started making dinner. Then, a while later he came back by and gave us some trail magic! Chicken and tuna and some protein bars! We split the bars but I let Jerzy have the packaged meat, since even looking at the packaging was making my stomach turn. Once we cleaned up our dinner stuff and put everything in a bear box down the way, another camper came over and gave us his homemade Venison Jerky!! We did split that evenly, because holy hell, it’s good!

There’s a bathroom house close to our campsite and it has a plug in with power, so, I’m using that to charge my phone before bed and I’m going to leave my power bank to charge here over night. I’m actually sitting on the bathroom floor (in an unused corner.. lol) to write all of this out, so when my phone hits 100% I can just go to bed instead of then having to write this out, too.
Also, there’s a story board outside of the bathrooms with the history of this campground.

This campground was originally created for “coloreds only.” Harold Ickles, secretary of the interior first brought up the issue of race with the national park service, since this park is in Virginia and was then part of the “Jim Crow” era. They made this campground for black visitors, recognizing that they should also be allowed to enjoy the natural beauty of the area, even if they had to still conform to the areas ridiculous laws of keeping whites and blacks separated.

Not shocking to me, they eventually let whites come to the dinning hall here at the blacks only area because, well-the food was awesome. Then, in 1950, the Pinnacle Picnic Area (that I camped near yesterday) was the first ever area that didn’t require separation by race. That’s 14 years before the civil rights act making it illegal to force segregation.

This history blows my mind in so many ways, but mostly that this wasn’t that long ago. It was before my time, obviously, but it wasn’t before some y’all’s time, it wasn’t before my grandparents time.. it was literally happening during their prime! How on earth could something like keeping people separated based off of the color of their skin-something quite literally NO ONE ON THIS EARTH had a choice in making a decision on-have been a normal way of life for our grandparents, or parents, or ourselves? It’s wild. And while we’ve made so many changes for the better, so much progress in equality, we still have so much farther to go.

Anywho-I would say I’ll get off my soapbox now, but it’s more like I’ll get off the bathroom floor now instead.. lol Thanks for following along.. and be kind to one another. We all have the ability to do that, at the very least for each other. We’re all the same in some way or another.
Goodnight y’all, sweet dreams!

Start: Lewis Campground (AT mi 918). Stop: Pinefield Hut (AT mi 898.2). Today’s miles: 19.8 miles. Total AT mileage: 1294.9 miles

I slept pretty good at the campground, eventually. I struggled falling asleep at first because of the noise and the lights from the bath house shining through my tent. After trying and failing for about 30 minutes to fall asleep, I decided I’d put my face mask on and wear it over my eyes. I was asleep in minutes.

I woke up through the night to hearing the rain starting to coming down. I stayed cozy and dry in my tent, so cozy that I didn’t want to get up at 7 when I knew I had to. I had another long day ahead, and if it was going to continue raining, it would probably make things slower going for me. When I finally let the air out of my mattress and took off my “eye” mask, Jerzy had already brought me my food bag!

I got up and went to the bathroom, brushed my teeth and my hair. My battery bank was fully charged too, and right where I left it. I went back to the tent and crawled back in, glad I let the air out of the mattress or I’d be tempted to get back in my sleeping bag and take a nap. Lol instead I packed everything inside the tent, ate my breakfast, and finally got all the way out to pack the tent itself. Nothing sucks more than packing a wet tent, but it’s really not too bad with this Duplex. At least I knew it would dry out fast later.

I hit the trail at 8, thinking Jerzy would catch me within a few minutes. I never saw him, he was going to a hostel in town, so maybe he’ll catch me in the coming days. Since it was raining, I thought I’d leave off the bug net, but I still ended up wearing it a lot of the day anyway. I listened to an audiobook and walked in the rain.

I went up and over some mountains, the viewpoints didn’t tease me today, since the skies were white with mist and clouds. I only saw 4 other hikers, relatively back to back sometime before noon. I heard a few more around then, too.. but that’s it. I saw a ton of deer though, darting about, actually skittish for once.

I ate lunch on a wet rock, and because my butt was cold, I didn’t stay seated for long. I only filled up water once, and then didn’t even drink what I got for some reason. I just didn’t feel thirsty.. which overall wasn’t a bad thing, since there wasn’t many places to get water today.

The sun came out this afternoon, but because I was in the canopy of trees and forest, I didn’t get to feel it, or dry my stuff out quicker because of it. I made it to the shelter I was aiming for by 4:15, too beat to consider pushing forward. My feet were aching, not only from the mileage, but also from the wetness of my socks and shoes.

I laid out my tent to dry some while I scoped the place out. I picked the flattest tentsite and left my trekking poles there to claim in, just in case a Boy Scout troop showed up or something else equally as unlikely happened. I washed off and filtered water, changed clothes and put up my tent. It was mostly dry on the inside, so I even unpacked everything too.

I ate dinner at the picnic table and then sat there and worked out my plan for the next few days. I put my food in the bear box and headed back to my tent to get warm and get away from the mosquitos. Now that I’m laying here typing all of this up, I hear a man on a radio/walkie talkie down at the shelter.. I’m assuming it’s probably a ridge runner or a ranger, but I’m not sure. Part of me wants to walk down there so he realizes I’m here, and doesn’t think the shelter and camping area are empty and take my food bag-but the other part of me is just now getting warm and doesn’t plan on ruining that.

Pray my food is there in the morning! Haha I’m sure it will be. I’ll get to another wayside camp store tomorrow morning, and get a light resupply that will get me through the next couple days until I can get into town. I’m hoping they have service there and I can sit a while and upload yesterday’s and today’s blogs.. I haven’t had hardly a bar of 4g all day!

Anyway, I think that’s all I know for now! Goodnight y’all!