The Unpolished Princess

Start: Rock Point (AT mi 848.7) Stop: The Priest Shelter (AT mi 829.7). Today’s miles: 19 miles. Total AT mileage: 1363.4 miles

Dear God-What. A. DAY. Whew.. now that thats out of the way-I’ll start from the beginning.
I got up sometime just after 7. I hate that I’m back in my “refuse to wake up” mode-I had mostly kicked that habit in Maine.. anyway, I sleepily got up and slowly got moving, and then was packed, breakfast eaten, and ready to go by 8am exactly. I headed off down trail, keeping my eyes peeled for the water source, since I only had a swallow left. I ended up coming across it less than 20 minutes later, but because it was such a slow trickle, it took me close to 30 minutes to filter a liter and a half of water. Ugh.

I put my pack back on, now heavier with the water, and within 10 minutes found another trickling “stream” but with a slightly better drop from the trickle, so I would have been able to fill up faster from this spot. I was seriously irked. It felt like the birds were laughing at me, with all their chitter chatter going on around me, and then the squirrels chimed in, too. I may or may not have held out loud conversations with them, I may or may not have used a bit of profanity when I told them where they could shove their squawky laughs. Don’t judge me.

Anyway, after that slight hiccup, my mood shifted upwards and I continued to have a pretty good, although grueling day. The trail was a downhill meandering deal for a good bit of the morning, before I entered the three ridges wilderness. Then, it was a climb up and over a mountain, I guess with three ridges, lol.. it was long and irritating-mostly because it was rocky and hot and had bees everywhere. I actually put my bug net on for bugs.. ha. Luckily I was smart enough to eat my lunch at the shelter right before that climb, and get more water, so at least I wasn’t hangry AND getting swarmed with bees and mosquitoes while I ate.

The “views” on three ridges were obscured by overgrown trees and bushes, so while I could see the mightiness of the mountains surrounding me, they didn’t show up in pictures. But they were gorgeous either way. I kept moving forward and started the descent that led to almost painful knees. There were a few steps that caused a twinge here and there, but overall it was just annoying with the rocks and not too bad.

I got to a shelter at the bottom and filled up both of my water bottles. I liked this area, but I hadn’t hit 15 miles yet, and that’s sort of my goal, to hit a 15 minimum unless it’s a “get to town” day. So, I pushed forward. There was a river with a suspension bridge at the bottom of the three ridges wilderness, with perfect campsites.. but it’s close to a road and there was a lady there laying out in the sun that clearly just walked over.. I get a little unsettled about camping close to roads when I’m alone. You never know if a crazy person might try to come see who’s camping there.

Not to mention, this was only at 14.2 miles for the day.. so I needed to get a bit farther. At 4pm, as I passed this bridge, I realized that the top of The Priest mountain is 5.1 miles away. I had thought it was only 4, but realized where my mistake was made when I was planning. I was rounding instead of actually calculating, so I was off. I decided that I was going to push myself and get to the top of that behemoth today. I knew I’d probably be setting up camp in the dark, but so be it. I didn’t want to do it tomorrow morning.
In that 5.1 miles, I had over 3 thousand feet of elevation gain. It was most definitely the most difficult part of the trail I’ve done since being up north.. but even still, it wasn’t “hard” per say, there was no obstacle courses or pulling my body with my 30 pound pack up and over a rock face.. it was just normal hiking-combined with sucking a whole lot of air.

It took me until 6:25 to reach the “top” and then it leveled out as it winded across the summit to the side with beautiful ledges, which I paused at to take pictures of the sun setting. I wished I had enough water to camp right there, it was so perfect. But, with all my wind sucking I also drank almost all of my 2 liters of water.. whoops. Plus, I was absolutely soaked with sweat and really needed to wash off in a stream, and the shelter ahead promised to have that available.

So, I kept going. I was 0.2 miles away from the shelter, hiking slightly downhill, when a bear darted across my path and continued down the trail in the direction I was going! OH MY GOD. NOOOOO. He was fast too! Like, it kind of scared me how fast he was. I started yelling out “hey bear!” And “I’m still coming this way bear!” And “go away bear!” I never saw it again, but I’d hear it thrashing about ahead of me, or off to the left ahead..

When I got to the side trail with the shelter, I saw that the AT went right, the side trail went left, and the camping area was straight ahead. I set up my tent still loudly yelling, I even threw in some “anybody else here!?” “People would be nice!” “Hello out there!” With my bear chants. I never heard anything or got a response. Since the sun was going down, I quickly unpacked and got my food, water bottles and filter, anything smelly, and clothes to change into-then hightailed it to the shelter-still yelling-so I could get water, wash off, change, eat dinner, and leave my food down there somewhere, in attempts to keep the bear far away from me.

When I got to the shelter, 2 hikers were there! They never saw the bear and never heard me yelling. That’s a little unsettling. I started knocking out my chores. I ate dinner while chatting with them, they’ve thru hiked the AT twice and are currently out on a section hike. They informed me that there was no bear box or pole, but did say I could just leave my food with them in the shelter.. they were keeping theirs with them. I ended up hanging mine in a tree nearby, and told them that way if the bear eats them during the night, they couldn’t blame my food for attracting it to them lol. They laughed.

I finally gathered the stuff to come back to the tent, my clothes and headlamp.. I also carried a good “hitting rock” with me too. They told me to have a rock to hit it with or throw at it to scare it away if I end up startling it on my way back to camp. They had several throwing rocks in the shelter with them by the time I headed out. I have 2 in my tent with me now, and, also at their recommendation, I have my bug spray next to me too, just in case something goes real bad, I can spray it’s eyes with it-haha, I don’t think it’ll help me at that point, but whatever, it’s close by anyway.

I can tell I’m slap worn out, because while the bear scares the shit out of me, I’m so tired that I really just want to go to sleep and I hope if it comes sniffing around it just leaves me be and doesn’t do anything loud enough to wake me up. I’ll definitely put my earplugs in tonight! I don’t want anything, mice or rabbits hopping around, to make me think that big ole booger is back to eat me. I even have my dirty socks propped up on top of my other gear-along with my shoes, hoping the stench deters any and everything roaming around out there.

Overall, I’m pretty damn proud of me today. I can’t believe I knocked out 19 miles, with the last 5 being going uphill to the top of The Priest. I was giving myself bailout points along the way, “well if you get to the river after 4:30, it’s ok to just camp there..” things like that. But I did what I originally set out to do. It’s a good feeling.

Anyway, I’m going to try to sleep.. and pray I don’t have anymore scary encounters tonight. I literally just heard an owl hoot over me, so maybe it’ll keep the other creatures away. It also just confirmed that I’m not getting back out of my tent until morning, unless absolutely necessary.

Sheesh. Goodnight y’all! Praying for sweet dreams for all of us!

Start: Waynesboro, VA (AT mi 864.2) Stop: Rock Point (AT mi 848.7) Today’s miles: 15.5 miles Total AT mileage: 1344.4 miles

I decided to sleep in a little this morning, since I slept horribly.. it was stuffy and hot and sticky.. and I didn’t get a top sheet, just a thick cover that was too much most of the time. So, I didn’t get up until 7:30. I felt so gross from sweating in my sleep, that I took another shower before packing everything up.

Once packed, I took everything downstairs and then walked down the street to Burger King for an egg and cheese biscuit, or two. I got it to go and then ate it at the kitchen table at the hostel. The girls ended up being awake by the time I got back, and invited me to breakfast, before realizing I already got mine. Whoops! I snagged a Gatorade to pour into my water bottle, and then got my shuttle to the trail head.

It was windy at Rockfish Gap, but sunny and so comfortable temperature wise. I sat in the grass and put my shoes on, then loaded up my heavy, food full pack onto my back and started down the trail. It’s definitely got the feeling of less trail maintenance than while in the Shenandoahs, but it was still quite nice. Being a Sunday meant lots of day hikers and trail runners taking care of my spider web wreckage for me. I was grateful.

I basically climbed most of the day, slow uphills with switchbacks and smooth trail. There wasn’t anything treacherous or that had me huffing and puffing so hard I couldn’t breathe. I did stop for lunch at a perfect sitting rock with a blocked view, but it was more about the food than the view. I had issues with water this afternoon.. the streams are slow slow moving, little trickles that I had to finagle leaves in to make them “pour” into my water bag. It was a 15 minute ordeal to get water at one point.

I got to the top of Humpback Mountain without much struggle. The rest of the terrain was a rocky downward slope that meandered into deep woods and then out to rocky view points and back again. Originally I was aiming for a stream ahead less than a mile from where I decided to camp. I had already passed one rocky outcropped area with tentsites that were gorgeous, but since it technically was in a “no camping” zone, I didn’t push my luck and carried on. When I saw this spot, with its gorgeous view point and perfect campsite-and no signs saying not to, I claimed it for my own before anyone else could show up!

I did end up having a stand off with a huge black snake.. I lost, of course. Half of its body was in the middle of the trail, the half with its head! Obviously, I did my scream and jump routine.. that thing just looked at me. Didn’t budge. I’m not brave enough to touch a snake, even with my trekking pole, so after talking to it for 2-3 minutes in a panic, hoping it would hear me out and move.. I ended up going through briars, probably more than necessary, to give it a very wide birth.

Back to now, I technically need more water, but I have enough to drink a small bit in the morning to get my breakfast down.. and then I’ll just have to fill up at the steam within the mile. I couldn’t pass up a sunset at these views. I would say “and sunrise” but, we all know if I see it, it’ll be through the tent because I probably won’t get up to watch from the rocky point. Ha. I had a feeling the stream would be deeply wooded and less spectacular to watch the sunset at any rate, so, I’m ok with missing the water a little bit.

Once I got my tent up, stuff unpacked, and bear line thrown (this proved to be quite the annoying challenge tonight), I ate dinner while watching the sunset from a perfect sitting rock on a beautiful ledge. It was stunning! The sun was a big orange ball that I got to see sink down below the mountains ahead of me. Man, it was special.

While sitting there, after I ate, I started working on a little itinerary for the next couple of weeks. I don’t know how realistic it is, but mom wants to drive up to bring me some stuff and swap out gear, now that she’s roughly 6-7 hours away, and only getting closer the farther south I get.. so I attempted to make a “plan” to give a rough estimate of where I should be on a weekend she might be able to make the drive up. She knows it’s a guess and she may be having to pick me up at a random road crossing way off from expected, but I don’t think she minds that any. I’m not planning on taking a zero until then.

Tomorrow, my goal is to hike the 19 miles to the Priest Shelter, which is located at the top of Priest mountain.. so the last 4 miles of my hike will be straight up a steep ascent. Usually I prefer knocking out behemoths first thing in the morning, but to keep my mileage goals in check, it looks like that booger should happen tomorrow.. if I don’t make it to the top, there’s a place to camp at the bottom before the climb.. so, it could work out that way anyway. But I’m going to sleep with intentions of summiting that thing tomorrow.

Speaking of sleep, I think that’s what my plan is now.. to get some and catch up on my lack there of from last night. The wind is whipping through here pretty strong, I’m slightly concerned with the tree limbs around.. but I think I’ll be fine. I’m sure I’ll fall asleep soon and won’t care what happens around me tonight! Lol- Sweet dreams, y’all!

Start: Stealth Site (AT 879.2). Stop: Waynesboro, VA (AT mi 864.2) Today’s miles: 15 miles. Total AT mileage: 1328.9 miles

As I have all week, I got up at 7. It just seems like a good time these days, although I did have to fight myself to not push the dismiss button on my watch and roll the other way. I packed and ate breakfast. While doing so, I saw 2 hikers and a trail runner go by! I was giddy thinking about the possibility of no spider webs this early in the day!

I started hiking a little before 8, and immediately turned on the audiobook I had been listening to. If anyone has any recommendations for books to read or listen to, I’m all ears. I clearly like all genres. The terrain being so much more gentle had me thinking maybe I should be doing something a bit more educational while hiking, like somehow working on my Spanish or start back up with Italian.. but I’m a visual learner, so I’m afraid id break an ankle or something if it wasn’t just something to listen to.

With all this “ease” I’m sure the trail will smack me in the face with some humbling difficulty soon anyway! Haha. Anywho-the trail was-dare I say it-easy today. I listened to my book, I waved and smiled and said “hi” to passers by.. I thanked the heavens for the sunshine. At 10 I called to reserve a bunk at the hostel and was told when to call for the shuttle. Before I even realized it, it was almost 2pm and time to call them.

I was sitting at the road junction, outside of Shenandoah National Park, awaiting my ride by 2:15. I hiked 15 miles in 6 and a half hours. For someone usually on par for 2 miles an hour, this was pretty good! Not to mention I did stop for a hole digging experience, to get water, and to sit on a rock and eat a snack-when the book was getting so good I couldn’t focus while walking AND being hungry. Lol

I saw several cute bunnies, bigger than I expected.. brown with perfectly white cotton tails. I saw 3 deer bounding away from me at some point, and tons of people out hiking or running the trails. It honestly went by quicker than I expected!

Rumble picked me up at the road and drove me back to the hostel. Once I checked in, I quickly claimed my bed, grabbed loaner clothes, and hopped in the shower. That first shower feels so damn glorious! My goodness I could have stood there all day-if the hot water had cooperated. I, like most normal women, prefer my water scalding hot, and it just didn’t last all that long here, in an older house with 3 showers and 2 washing machines going. It was still quite nice though.

Once I dressed in my borrowed clothes (some really comfy purple shorts and a 2x tank top that hangs off me and required a tie on the side to keep it from turning into a dress), I unpacked all my dirty clothes and promptly claimed a washer.

I waited long enough for the wash to cycle and to get everything in the dryer, before darting out the door to a restaurant in walking distance to eat. I was going to go with the tramily here, 2 section hikers and 2 flip floppers, plus the lady that’s working the hostel, to a Mexican restaurant, but I couldn’t determine how long they were going to wait before going and my snack had definitely worn all the way off. I wanted food now.

So, out I went. I ended up getting jalapeño poppers (with cream cheese-my fav filling!) with a chili ranch sauce to dip, a goat cheese burger with a side of house made chips and a pickle. I ate ALL OF IT. Not one bite left! And had 2 beers and 2 waters. I sat on a patio and loved every second of it.

Once I paid, I walked over to Walmart-conveniently located between the hostel and the restaurant.. I got my resupply stuff and headed back. Somehow, during that time, they all went to Mexican and made it back before me! I was gone maybe 2 hours, max. They were sitting out back having some beer, and invited me to join.. I did. These girls had me cackling! They are hysterical, and I was entertained for hours! Even when I finished my beer and decided to drink a Dr. Pepper instead!

At almost 9, I had to depart the fun. They’re all zeroing tomorrow and I’ve decided I don’t want to zero yet. So, I came up to my bunk and organized my belongings to make the morning easier on me. It’s almost 10pm and I’m so worn out! I hope I sleep well, although it’s a little stuffy up here.

Today was such a good, productive day! If I can keep on track with these 15 mile days, I should be in a good place to finish mid November, although I feel like it’s way too early to make assumptions like that. In all honesty, I’d love to finish before November 11th, so I’d have the trail completed before my best friend, Lauren’s wedding.. mainly so I don’t have to worry about getting back on trail after it. However I look at it though, there’s too many unknowns to stress about that now. I’ll just keep doing what I can between now and then and see how it all plays out.

Here’s to towns, showers, good food, and good folks! Goodnight y’all!