The Unpolished Princess

Start: Unaka Mountain Top (AT mi 358.1). Stop: No Business Knob Shelter (AT mi 338). Today’s miles: 20.1 miles. Total AT mileage: 1855.1 miles.

I got up around 7 and attempted to quietly go get my food bag down.. I couldn’t have been that quiet because I heard the others stirring a little, but they mostly ignored me. I huddled back into my tent and made my coffee and breakfast. The views on top of Unaka Mountain were still spooky, misty clouds coming through the leafless pines as the sun started to rise.

I packed up, said goodbye to my buddies, and was hiking away a little before 8. I had 20 miles to knock out and not a second to waste! A little ways into the morning, the mostly downhill curved upwards to a grassy field named “Beauty Spot” and it was exactly that! Off to the left of the field, through the brush, you could tell you were still high on a mountain with other mountains around and fog creeping between them. I was above the clouds! It was the nicest view of the day so far! Then again, I had just gotten started, but still.

Over half of the day was spent going downhill, steep in sections with rocks, but mostly long curved paths sloping gently down. It was easier terrain, but it did make my knees a little sore. Towards the bottom, I ate my lunch on a log at a shelter.. mainly because the 2 guys there had taken over all of the space in the shelter and on the picnic table. They were doing a section hike, and at noon they were just getting started for the day. One tried to unload some of his Cliff and Kind bars on me and made a face at me when I declined-but I’m sick of those things and refuse to carry even an ounce more than absolutely necessary!

I walked along the Nolichucky River from above for a mile or so before getting into Erwin, Tennessee. The trail passes right by a hostel with a little store, so I decided to go there to get a soda. As I was walking up, MashedPotato was sitting there chatting to a friend on the phone! I left him to go inside to get some goodies, to return to his picnic table minutes later. I wanted Mountain Dew, but ended up with Dr Pepper since they were out.. I also got a Gatorade, ice cream sandwich, AND a huge honeybun.

MashedPotato and I talked a minute while I stuffed my new sweets in my mouth. He had just ordered pizza, which I would have loved if I hadn’t just eaten lunch and 2 deserts! He was planning to get to the same shelter I was, so I didn’t feel bad departing quickly, since I’d see him soon anyway. He and his friend were in the middle of booking flights for Puerto Rico to celebrate the end of his hike.. that sounds pretty nice!

The next 6 miles were mostly uphill. But the views around almost every switchback we’re looking down at the Nolichucky River surrounded by mountains jutting up around the water. It helped distract me from the climb, which I really appreciated. I finally got to camp around 5pm, found a spot in the back away from the other hikers around (3 section hikers on a gear shakedown hike, one of them is doing the AT next year, her husband has already done it), and another thruhiker, southbound from the start.

I ended up eating my dinner at the picnic table with the section hikers, after I threw my bear line. I was still eating when MashedPotato got there. He set up his hammock and then joined me and the others for his dinner, I was the only one still eating. He brought the rest of the pizza he didn’t finish for lunch, and I was jealous for a second time. We talked and laughed until the sun started to set.. and then the others all said goodnight, so he and I went over by his hammock and my tent and continued our conversation. The sun was going down, but it was only 7:15.. so neither of us were tired. He has a unique laugh, almost like a chuckle mixed with mischief that really cracks me up! I enjoy his company and will miss him when I get off trail and end up a minimum of 3 days behind him.. ahhh trail life.

I eventually came and got in my tent to lay down just after 8pm. I’m still not tired, but my body wanted to lay instead of sit. And I also had to type all of this out. The moon is shining through the trees, so although the sun is gone, it doesn’t really feel dark. There are so many trees blocking the view of the moon that I can’t tell if it’s full or not, I’m guessing it’s not but it might be getting close, since it’s so bright.

Also, tomorrow I’m going to hike just over 18 miles to Sam’s Gap and then get picked up by a Trail Angel, SoFarSoGood, that hiked the AT in 2019.. I met her in Damascus and when she told me she lives in Asheville I jokingly mentioned she should drive me to my rental car for Lauren’s Bachelorette weekend.. well, she took my number and messaged me yesterday asking if I still needed a ride! She has offered to pick me up, let me stay with her and her husband tomorrow night, and then drive me to the rental car place on Friday! The kindness of the trail folk truly is unmatched! I’m super excited to see her and her husband again and the stress free ride/stay is definitely an added bonus!

Ok, I think that’s all I know for today. Sweet dreams, y’all 🙂

Start: No Business Knob Shelter (AT mi 338). Stop: Sam’s Gap (AT mi 319.7). Today’s miles: 18.3 miles. Total AT mileage: 1873.4 miles.

I’m liking my morning routine in the woods, way more than I like waking up in hostels for sure. I creeped around and got my food bag down, then snuggled back into my tent and sleeping bag, making my oatmeal and coffee while laying on my side all cozy. It’s a good feeling that’s short lived, because once I finish my meal, I’m already worrying about losing time with the daylight every second I lay there not hiking.

So, I packed up and was ready to leave by 8. MashedPotato came over and ate his breakfast chatting with me while I packed. He wouldn’t leave for a good 30 minutes or so after me, but naturally he’d catch me quickly. He’s a fast hiker, I only get ahead of him when he’s taking breaks. Hike hard, rest hard. Too bad I’m not quick enough to do the same.

The morning was uneventful and wooded with very little views of anything other than.. well, woods.. it was serene though. Eventually I climbed to an exposed bald that had stunning views of the mountains around it, and as I hiked down it and came up the next one, I made my way to the top only to find myself at Big Bald with 360 degree views. I think my desire to rest and recharge has me at a disadvantage because I’m simply too tired to figure out how in the world to describe these views to you. They were just-jaw dropping.

Blue bird skies and grassy mountaintops with nothing but mountains and more mountains overlapping each other in fading shades of blue in the distance, but vivid bright pops of color in the trees closer to me. Truly, just know it was everything I hoped it could be in that moment. Prettier than the views from New Hampshire, similar to that of the Roan Highlands.. magical really.

I was all smiles as I left that Bald, hiking downhill back into the tree coverage. I stayed on the high of those views for the rest of my hike, the majority being in spacious wooded mountainsides that let the sunshine come though. I got to Sam’s gap just before 5pm and happily plopped into the grass, took my shoes and socks off and laid back to rest while waiting for SoFarSoGood to get there. I told her 5-5:30 as my potential ETA, so I was early and she was right on time!

We were chatty on the way to Asheville, where she lives. She was so incredibly kind to pick me up and let me stay with her for the night. We quickly popped in the grocery store and picked up a few things before getting to her lovely home nestled on a mountain ridge in Asheville. It was beautiful! And her husband does woodworking, so he made all of the cabinets, tables, side tables, window trim.. I was blown away at the craftsmanship!

We sat on the front porch, sipping white wine and munching on cheese and crackers while dinner cooked.. which ended up being a nice fresh salad (man I’ve missed greenery more than I realized), baked chicken and potatoes! So so yummy. We did some trail talk and realized we’ve both gone through a lot of the same experiences and have gained so much from these experiences.. and she shared some perspective on what to expect, both mentally and physically, when I finish.. tonight has been a night I’ll cherish. I couldn’t be more thankful for meeting her back in Damascus, or more grateful for her kindness to me.

Eventually I showered and got ready for bed. She has set me up in a very nice room with an even nicer mattress AND a fan! Lol I have a good feeling I might actually sleep in a bit tomorrow! I sure hope so! Goodnight y’all!

I slept in until 10am! That’s the latest I’ve slept since starting the trail! It felt absolutely AMAZING to get that much quality sleep. I’m still on cloud 9 over it.

SoFarSoGood made up some breakfast and coffee for me and I ate while sitting on her deck playing with the orange cat named Ottie. He was a cutie-I’m slightly concerned that I’m becoming more and more of a cat person..

Anyway-she took me to get the rental car and we said our goodbyes, with plans to see each other on Monday-when she will graciously drive me back to the trail. I got the rental car and drove north to the Airbnb we rented for Lauren’s bachelorette weekend!

We had so much fun celebrating Lauren all weekend, fun I don’t intend to elaborate on here.. simply because it’s not related to the hike. I will say, though, that I had an absolute blast getting to be off trail with friends and it was most definitely a weekend to remember! Haha

Sunday (today) we said our goodbyes and I drove back to Asheville while they all headed back to Atlanta. I was able to resupply for the next several days, get my Smokey Mountain National Park Backcountry permit all sorted out and saved to my phone.. and I’m updating here, resting my legs, and enjoying my last zero before I finish this thing. If nothing unforeseen complicates my plan, I’m praying I’ll be finishing in less than a month, hopefully the weekend before Lauren’s wedding-so I won’t have trail life to deal with after being home for her big day. It just feels simpler to be done before the wedding weekend.

Anyway, I’ll be back at it tomorrow. I’m going to take advantage of my rest day and catch up on some TV and snacks 🙂 Thank you for following along with me on this journey. I appreciate each of you!