The Unpolished Princess

Start: The Maine Roadhouse Hostel (AT mi 2004.9). Stop: Bigelow Col Campsite (AT mi 2012.9). Today’s miles: 8 miles. Total AT mileage: 988.2 miles

I slept so incredibly well. The mattress on the bed I slept on was phenomenal. I should have looked at it now that I think about it. I may just have to call Jen and find out what brand it is. Anywho, I got up at 6:45 and used the bathroom before heading downstairs to breakfast.

It was a feast! Eggs, bacon, toast, fresh fruit, pancakes, and hash browns. I’m shocked I’ve lost any weight with the way these ladies at the last two hostels have fed me! Man, it’s been good. After breakfast I paid Jen for my stay and my resupply, then headed upstairs to pack. Since they have to take several trips to the trailhead because of all the hikers, I took my time. I wasn’t ready to go either way.. those pj pants almost had me tell them I wanted to zero.. I came sooooo close!

I packed, but before I changed or stripped the bed, I laid back down to work on yesterday’s blog. Why rush? Lol.. I loved every second spent horizontal! When I finally couldn’t justify laying around any more, I stripped the bed and changed my clothes. Ugh. It was so sad.

Downstairs, while waiting for others to get ready for the shuttle, I got my picture taken for their hostel wall. They just opened this season and they are doing so incredibly well. I’m excited I got to be on their wall.. and I saw SO MANY of my friends on there too! Sauce & FarOut, Lilo, Killer, Wizard, TBird, TownLegs, DoubleDecker, Smiles, Flamingo, Lost&Found, Spring, Trippin.. omg. So. Many. Friends.

Once we got a group ready, we went to the trailhead. Flow is a SOBO hiker I met last night, he’s an ER nurse, so we talked shop a bit. I don’t miss work, but I do miss the people I work with.. he was telling me with covid getting worse again, he may come off trail to do a crisis contract. I did enough of that last year and the first few months of this year. If covid somehow stops my trail, I’m sitting my butt on my couch for the rest of this year regardless.

He and another SOBO hiker set out southbound and Luau, Proton and I started north. I was technically in the lead while they stretched and got ready.. they both passed me within the first hour, Proton within like 15 minutes.. haha, the kid is quick.

It was super muggy today. I hit the trail by 9:30 and was completely soaked through like I jumped in a lake (just way less refreshing) by 10. I ended up chugging 2 liters of water before 11 and refilling both bottles. And we were just climbing to a peak with no name. Cool. It was close to 4 miles uphill to get to this viewpoint, which I actually took the side trail to. Then, a mile or so later I came to the junction that had the shelter down one path and a pond down the other. I chose the pond route for my lunch.

Once down there, Scout, Spaceman, and NoRush were there doing the same thing. Everyone had taken off the super wet with sweat clothes to let them dry out some while eating lunch. I did the same, I also got into the pond (the water looked clear) and used a bandana to splash myself and cool off a bit while my shorts and shirt air dried. I sat on a rock and ate leftover pizza from yesterday while chatting with everyone. It was a glorious lunch. And beautiful day. Hot, but better now.

Originally, my goal was to only get to this pond/shelter for the night. But, after spending an hour there, even after the others left, I decided I had it in me to hike on. They were all going at least another 10, I was considering doing 3.. and if that went by fast-maybe 6 total.. but I was 100% not aiming for the 10. It was already 2pm and that would get me coming in to a full shelter and trying to set up my tent late. No thank you.

So. From there, I had to go up and over the horn (another horn, you’d think they’d give it a different name). It was another steep climb, but not really technical at all. It was just so humid again. On the way up Bigelow West Peak, I could sense that rain was coming. Something about it suddenly feeling that much muggier and clouds rolling by that you just know the sky will break soon. I decided to pick up my pace and huff it out so I could get over the peak before the rain hit.. initially concerned only with slick rocks on the downside.

I was literally 0.2 miles from the exposed rock summit when I heard a crackle of thunder and saw the flash of lightening. I stop dead in my tracks and hunched down in the middle of the trail. Then, immediately as my knees bent to hunch, the sky dropped buckets on me. I turned and headed as quick as my feet would carry me back down to bigger tree coverage. I was literally at the sign saying to stay on trail and not trample the fragile alpine flowers when all this happened.. aka: right in the danger zone.

I was standing off trail amongst the bigger trees when I see the water turn the trail in front of me into a river. About 10 minutes later, as quickly as it came, it just stopped. And the sun was shining. I came out of hiding and started back up, cautiously. I made it just a bit further than before, right by a high rock cairn, when just ahead two lightening bolts cracked across the sky at the same time. The thunder came before I could get the one out for one Mississippi. I turned around and sat in the trail, as it felt like the lowest point I could get to in that second. I waited a minute, and then took my pack off, set it and my poles beside the cairn-covered them with the rain cover, and darted back down trail to the safety of those bigger trees.

I had my phone with me, TownLegs had messaged me checking in on my lovely detergent rash. I chatted with her a while and she unknowingly calmed me a bit and confirmed I made the right choice to wait out the storm where I was. I then called and talked to my mom for awhile. When ya got service, you take advantage.. even in a thunderstorm apparently.

I waited there for almost a full hour before creeping slowly back to my pack. The weather app said more storms will come later, but there will be an hour or so lull in between. But to be mindful of wind gusts up to 50 miles per hour. Hmmmm. So, at 5:45pm I treaded lightly to my pack, put it on.. stared a bit, then made a dash for it. I was 0.1 miles from the rock summit here, and only 0.4 miles from the campsite between the 2 Bigelow Mountain peaks.

Between where I was standing and the summit, the wind was coming in huge waves attempting to blow me off. I almost lost my rain cover, I snatched it as it went to go flying.. as I tucked it into my waist belt, I realized during it’s almost departure off West Bigelow, one of my empty 1L smart water bottles was blown off into the abyss. I stopped and tried finding it, but it was a lost cause.. it could be in Canada by now lol

I strapped the only other water bottle I have in a little tighter, then carried on.. quickly as possible while crouching low to not get blown off myself. I snapped a quick picture of the summit sign then darted down the trail to the tree line. Apparently I am capable of moving quicker than I thought on wet slippery surfaces. Who knew? Lol I let TownLegs and my mom know I made it safely to the other side and to camp.

I found a flat spot for my tent back behind a caretakers building that’s all boarded and locked up. Technically im supposed to be set up on a tent platform, but with the storms coming through tonight, I decided I’d risk a magical person appearing to make me move in order to have my tension on the tent safely staked down.
I then made the trek to get water, with my one water bottle.. lol. It was uphill on trail 0.2 from where I set up camp. It’s annoying to know I’ll have to do that same uphill tomorrow morning, and it’s a lot of boulder scrambling, too. Lovely.

Once I got back, I filtered my water and took my food down to a tent platform to sit and eat my food a little more comfortably than on the wet ground or in my tent. While in the process of making that move, a man showed up. I showed him where the tent platforms were and we chatted while I ate and he set up. He was coming up the other Bigelow when the storm hit, just father down.. haha. How fun has today been?

Now I’m all set up in my tent, he’s just down the way a bit and we’re the only ones here between the Bigelows listening to the rain and wind whip through here like we’re teenagers in trouble. The tent is holding up steady and I’m nice and warm. I was so hot earlier today, and then after getting soaked through with the rain, I got chilly. Now there’s a chill in the air with the wind.. which is all perfect for me because I sleep better when it’s just a little cool.

Speaking of, that’s exactly what I plan to do now.. goodnight y’all.

Start: Stealth Site (AT mi 1996.5). Stop: The Maine Roadhouse Hostel (AT mi 2004.9). Today’s miles: 8.4 miles Total AT mileage: 980.2 miles

I got up at 6:35 and set to work packing. I felt this urgency, knowing I had two huge mountains to cross before I could get to town. I love the trail, but man, knowing a nice shower awaits you is more motivating than one would think. When I got out of my tent (I pack the inside first when I don’t have to rush out to pee first thing), Steak and Scout were already packed and eating their breakfast. By the time I got my tent down, they were headed out. I knew I wouldn’t see them again until I got to the hostel lol

I ate my breakfast and then headed out too, telling Mr. Shakedown man bye and good luck. He was just getting up and admitted he didn’t sleep well, guaranteed he won’t forget earplugs on his big trip!

The trail was uphill but not bad for the first mile, until I passed the original campsite I was aiming for yesterday. Then it was straight up South Crocker Mountain. It had rock steps and nothing was technically “too” steep, but it felt like it just kept going forever. Apparently this is the steepest and longest on the trail so far, people just don’t hype it up.

At the top, the trail leveled out a bit before heading down 300 feet into a valley between the two mountains. And then.. you guessed it, right back up North Crocker Mountain. That one didn’t seem as strenuous, although it too was steep. I had it in my head that once I got to the top of this mountain it was 5.2 down hill miles to town. I was just praying the downhill wasn’t as steep as the two uphills I’d conquered already.

The tops were anticlimactic. But also it was threatening rain, so naturally my views were nothing but white misty skies. That’s ok, it was so muggy I was actually hoping it would rain, just enough to cool me off some. It only sprinkled for a minute, long enough to take my pack off and put the rain cover on, get it back on and start walking again. Haha, oh well. If I hadn’t stopped, it would have down-poured.

The last 5.2 miles were mild! I was so happy and cruising down that mountain. Some spots I could actually jog a little. The chaffing rash I have started to flare up along my panty line with only 2 miles to go. I got to where I was walking bowlegged and trying to pull my undies away from my skin. It wasn’t my thighs rubbing, it didn’t feel like anything was actually rubbing at all, it was the material simply touching my skin. So, with 1.7 to go, I stopped and swapped my undies and shorts for my sleep leggings. It was instant relief.

I got to the parking lot and called The Maine Roadhouse. Jen said she was heading to come get me. About 3 minutes before she got there, the sky dropped.. and I was happy as hell for my umbrella. I huddled under it with my pack and waited.. and then a lady in a SUV whipped through that parking lot so quick! Lol She said she stepped on it when the rain started.

I’m in love with this hostel. Two friends started it, and this Jen (they’re both Jen) is from Georgia. She felt like home. I got a private room, and the bed is perfection in every way. The loaner clothes (what we wear after we shower but before our clothes are washed) are so damn comfy, too. I almost want to zero here just to keep wearing these pj pants. After my shower, Jen took me to the general store and post office. I sent some stuff home, got a pizza and drinks.

The rest of the afternoon and evening was spent sitting at a big table eating and talking. Runway, Sling, and Tinman were there, along with Steak, Scout, Luau, Proton, and their friends. Then Spaceman and NoRush appeared, too. Spaceman is thinking our rash is more of a chemical burn.. his hips look like mine, but like they did the first day, swollen and angry as hell. DirtyPasta told Hopper about the detergent, so hopefully they get a different brand.

I came up to my room around 7:30 and fell in love all over again with this bed. I tried to order me a duplex tent like David’s, but the camo color isn’t currently an option, so I emailed them to see if it will become one again or if I can special order it. The other colors seem more see through or too bright, and in a tent I prefer to leave the onlooker thinking it’s a dude inside and not me by myself. Camo does just that. While I have his and I’m grateful, eventually I will need my own.

I talked to my mom for a while and laughed and laughed. I’m so happy she’s coming to see me soon! It’s what’s motivating me to not move into this hostel and never leave. I miss her like crazy and she and I giggling on the phone like little school girls just makes my heart so much happier. I get sad thinking that not everyone has this type of closeness with their mom.. she’s literally my number one in all things. The thought of not having that relationship is heartbreaking.

Anyway, it’s off to sleep for me.. although I kind of want to stay awake to relish every second of this bed.. but that’s silly. My head seems to be swimming with thoughts today, so I have a feeling it’s going to take some time to shut it down. Hopefully not too much time. Sweet dreams, y’all.

Start:Poplar Ridge Lean-To (AT mi 1983.4) Stop: Stealth Site (AT mi 1996.5). Today’s miles: 13.1 miles. Total AT mileage: 971.8 miles

Well, my waking up nicer business ended this morning. The 4 section hikers that showed up yesterday woke up loud as hell this morning. Sling, Tinman, Runway, and BlessedBillygoat all got up quietly and snuck out of camp by 6.. the other 4 decided that everyone else must be up, too, because they were loud as shit yelling to each other and talking. I literally had to do some deep breathing to not scream out a good “STFU!”

I waited until I heard them leave before getting up and packing. I was so annoyed that my good sleep was interrupted that it took me some time to get over it. I was pretty much grumpy the entire time I was in camp. I ate my breakfast and then was hiking by 7:30.. the time I had originally decided I’d get up.

I took that as a sign that I’d probably need more time to hike today. It’s the longest of the 3 days before the hostel.. so, I guess I shouldn’t be so irritated with those early LOUD risers. I just find it so rude. Anyway, officially letting it go now, as I write this LOL.

The trail was both a mixture of beautiful forest with calm trail and full on “what the hell?” The first part of the day had a slow, long climb that wasn’t too bad, truthfully. It got my blood pumping and the sweat pouring, but ups are much easier these days compared to downs. I only have to focus on my breathing going up.. coming down requires focus on each step, knees, ankles, feet, pack..

I ate my lunch at the top of Lone Mountain. It was uneventful but sunny. So I dried my bandana in the sun and ate some snacks. I couldn’t force myself to eat the tuna. I just couldn’t. While I sat, a SOBO hiker came through and sat and chatted with me while he waited on his partner to make it there. I enjoyed the company, chatting about what’s to come for each of us and all that. Then Steak appeared. I assumed he was ahead yesterday when Luau and Proton passed. He and Scout had stayed at a stealth site back a ways. After chatting with him a bit the two of us carried on.. him light years ahead of me within about 2 minutes.

The terrain from the top of Lone Mountain didn’t turn down, instead it meandered through the woods for the prettiest part of today, with views popping up here and there down short side paths. It was 2 miles of heaven. It also looked like the type of terrain you’d spot a moose in, and there was quite a bit of poop, but no luck. I passed Steak when he found a sunny spot to hang out his tent to dry. He had the Zpacks Triplex (same as David’s except bigger for 2 people), but it got a bit soaked last night where they camped so he wanted it to air out better before making it to camp.

I carried on and passed a shelter without going down to it. Then it was a steep uphill climb to get to the Sugarloaf Mountain. Once I made it to the sign, there was a blue blazed trail saying the summit was up about 150 yards.. a man happened to be coming down it as I was crossing it and made the comment, “it’s socked in up there, can’t see a thing. I wouldn’t waste my time if I were you..” Little did he know, I wasn’t going up that side trail either way.. but I felt better about my choice knowing the views weren’t there.. hahaha

I passed another SOBO hiker and paused to chat him up a bit. Everyone seems super friendly today. Some days people just pass with a “happy trails” and nothing else, today people wanted to talk! And you know what? That was fine by me! I did, too! I wasn’t listening to music or a new audiobook.. today I just soaked in all that was around me. And it felt fantastic. This guy was the one that told me the stealth sites I’d see once I cross the river at the bottom are nicer in his opinion than the camp site a mile afterwards. The campsite was my original intention.. but I saw on my app about these stealth sites, too.. so now that he confirmed it, I had a new goal: one mile less than the campsite. While that means a mile more tomorrow.. eh, whatever, I’ll deal with tomorrow.. tomorrow. 😉

So I started the descent to the river. It started out nice and smooth-ish.. a few rocks and roots every few steps but not every step. Then it opened up to a cliff with the view of all the surrounding mountains and the river down below. At first, even here the trail was ok. I was wondering how in 1.3 miles I’d end up all the way down there at the water.. shortly there after, I figured it out.

HOLY HELL it was straight down! It felt scarier than Madison in the dark to me! The rocks looked freshly “rock slid” off the mountain. Like I was seriously worried that one step on the wrong rock would send the whole cliff side down to the bottom, me with it. The dirt even looked different-dry and almost sandlike.. unlike the wet mud dirt of every day prior. Maybe that’s why those rocks are still standing? Who knows? I don’t, but I do know I was very worried about my safety coming down that thing.

Luckily, I safely made it to the bottom, hearing rushing water for almost 15 solid minutes before reaching it. I crossed over and knew the search was on for a tent spot. I didn’t have to look far. There was a slanted one to my right, one right ahead with roots.. I kept going-a man was set up with his tent a little father on the right, and then to the left: perfection! There’s a fire ring with logs for sitting, and then just beyond, a nice flat spot for my tent. Out of politeness I made sure the man was ok if I set up here, if he said no I don’t know what I would have done, because this was destined to be home tonight regardless.

Before putting up my tent, I looked around and made sure there would be enough room for Steak and Scouts tent if they decided to make it here today. Technically, my spot would be better for them.. but I snagged it anyway since it was flatter. They’d still fit just off to my right a little bit. It was 5:45 when me and Mr. Man walked back to the river to get water. Once we did, I stayed and bathed before coming back and changing into my camp clothes.

I finished unpacking and then filtered water and made dinner. A ramen bomb. He came over to ask some questions about everything.. he’s doing a gear shakedown to see how he likes everything and what he does or doesn’t need for his section hike of the 100 mile wilderness at the end of the month. He seems super excited and had loads of questions.. all of which I was happy for because it was keeping me from crawling into my tent with the sun out.

Finally I cleaned up and we did retire to our tents. Around 8pm I saw a hiker pass my tent. I recognized the hair but wasn’t completely sure, so I yelled out a, “Scout, is that you?” Lol it was and we chatted through the tent for a few. I already have my pants off, letting my rashy business dry out/do what ever it does with hydrocortisone cream on. She told me 2 of her friends had the same thing happen to them after staying at the cabin, so I think I’ll call Hopper tomorrow when I get to town just to let her know, they may want to change their detergent, because TownLegs told me she got a rash after washing there, too.

Anyway, I asked if they had enough room for their tent in the spot next to me.. and that if not, I’d be willing to swap spots with them if they’d help me gently move my tent over there without completely unpacking the inside. She said she’d let Steak decide once he got there, but either way I didn’t need to move my tent. They are so dang nice. He showed up and said they had plenty of room next to me to set up. So they started doing all their chores. I still haven’t moved from my bed. Something tells me I’ll have to go pee before too long though.. I accidentally chugged a lot of water after dinner lol. The body wants what it wants! I just don’t want to have to put my pants back on.

So, there ya have it. The things that I think about. Oh! Before I forget! No snakes today AND today was the second day in a row of not falling! I’m a little scared to think what tomorrow brings.. haha It should be a really steep climb to the top of South Crocker mountain, a 300 ft decent and then a climb up North Crocker, with a 5 mile “ok” descent to the road crossing to get picked up for the hostel. So I’m told by my shakedown friend across the campsite from me. If he can do it with a 40 pound pack, I can do it, too! Hopefully a little faster so I have more time at the hostel!

Sweet dreams, y’all!