The Unpolished Princess

Start: Sam’s Gap (AT mi 319.7). Stop: Stealth Site (AT mi 305.3). Today’s miles: 14.4 miles. Total AT mileage: 1887.8 miles.

Coming back to trail after time off is difficult.. not because of not wanting to be here or anything mentally negative, but because it’s hard on the muscles.. everything started to relax and heal-then BAM-right back at it with a very heavy food bag. None of this was unexpected.. I knew I’d physically struggle today, and overall I’m proud of my progress! I’m just tired..

I woke up in my Asheville hotel sometime after 8am.. my room was gorgeous and the king size bed was just what I needed to rest up before today. I packed and loaded up the car, checked out with the hotel and then got a breakfast burrito to go from their bistro. It was wayyyyy better than I thought it would be, and it included salsa and guacamole-no extra charge!

I drove to the Enterprise where SoFarSoGood was already waiting for me, I was early, but she was even earlier! I quickly went inside to handle the return, then the two of us set off for Sam’s Gap, happily chatting the whole way. Once there, she gave me a few snacks she had gotten me, some great fig bars and some apple cinnamon cookie things that I tried when she picked me up-that I absolutely fell in love with! SoFarSoGood is truly an incredible trail angel!

We hugged and said our byes for now, knowing we’ll hopefully be seeing each other again in the near future.. and then, me and my over stuffed with food pack headed up the road and eventually up a dang mountain. The terrain was smooth but steep, and it probably felt steeper than it was because of the load on my back. I had sent a good bit of stuff home with Lauren, but it was like I subconsciously added that missing weight in food alone.. luckily, the more I eat the lighter it gets!

I passed several gentlemen out hiking today, along with a couple, but there wasn’t a whole lot going on. The tops of the mountains were wooded, so I only got views every now and then of the other mountains spotted with turning leaves. The sun was shining and the temperature was mostly in the high 50s, so I was happy.. just slow going and soaking it in. I think I’ll even miss the struggles of the trail soon, when it’s over. I’m making sure to take the time to appreciate everything I can, while I can.

I ate lunch on the side of the trail at a stream, so I could load up on water while eating. I didn’t eat until after 1:30 thanks to that burrito and a weekend full of incredible meals. I just wasn’t hungry. The weight instantly felt better once I finished and lugged that pack back on. By 4pm I made it to the shelter I had originally aimed for. I decided to fill up water again and then push on. It was too early to sit around cold, I’d rather get some more mileage with the sun still up.

I struggled to find the stealth spot listed in some comments, but when I saw a sloped clearing I decided to go ahead and cook my dinner, eat, then hike on to the next shelter-headlamp close by. I knew getting to the shelter would end up causing me to night hike until 7:30-8pm, since the sun is setting earlier and earlier, an estimated 6:50 set time for today. I cooked and ate my dinner, already putting on my jacket and gloves while sitting there waiting on the food to cook. It’s getting quite chilly tonight I think.

Within 20 minutes of repacking and heading out, close to 5:45pm, I got stung by a wasp on top of my left foot-it stung me through the sock and was wedged between my foot and my shoe. It HURT. I kept hiking, because what else is there to do? However, when I saw a flat chunk of ground off to the left around 6:30, I decided I’d make camp here instead of pushing the 3 more miles to the next shelter. I cleared out the leaves, limbs, and debris from a section of ground to put my tent. Before setting it up though, I quickly scouted out a tree to hang my food in and got that squared away before I lost the sunlight.

Once satisfied with my food bag, I set to work putting up the tent and unpacking. I was shivering while doing all of this, so the second everything was done, I was hopping right into this sleeping bag. I almost swapped it back out for the quilt, because I hate how heavy it is, but in this moment of cold weather with the wind blowing and the sun gone-I’m thrilled I kept it! I’m not toasty, by any means, but surly when I finish messing on this phone and can zip it the rest of the way up-I will be! I don’t think my quilt would have kept me warm tonight.

So, the plan for tomorrow is just over 19 miles, followed by 11 or so into Hot Springs, North Carolina. The trail passes right through town and I already booked an hour hot mineral water soak for that afternoon-it’s practically my only real motivation to get to my planned location for tomorrow, since I know I’ll be cold in the morning and not wanting to get up.

For the record, as I’m laying here listening to the wind blow around, I can also hear the semi distant howls of what I assume are coyotes. That’s a little unnerving, for sure, but the beauty of the wasp sting from earlier is that this Benadryl I’m about to take for that will probably also help me sleep and not think about these wild animals so close by.. ha! Gotta love nature! It’s always an adventure.. Sweet dreams.. y’all stay warm!

Start: Stealth Site (AT mi 305.3). Stop: Spring Mountain Shelter (AT mi 285.9). Today’s miles: 19.4 miles. Total AT mileage: 1907.2 miles.

Those distant coyotes from last night ended up coming a whole lot closer. At one point it sounded like they were getting butchered within 100 yard of my tent. I attempted to google “will coyotes attack a hiker in a tent” but didn’t have the service for the search to work, my screen was just blank. I had been texting Lauren, so I asked her to google it for me. Basically, I wanted to know if a pack of them found my tent, would they surround me and attack.. haha.. Thankfully, Lauren said they shouldn’t. That was all the confirmation I needed to put in my earplugs and drift off into a deep sleep!

I did, too. I didn’t wake up with any of my watch alarms. I slept until 7:30 and only woke up because of my pesky bladder reminding me I had been in my tent for almost 12 whole hours without getting up to pee. This getting dark earlier in the evening and staying dark later in the morning is really messing with my head. I’m usually a heavy sleeper regardless, but when it’s dark-I really sleep. Waking up is always a struggle, even when it’s bright outside, but attempting to get up before the sun is such an absolute struggle.

Either way, I was happy I slept well and didn’t get mauled by angry coyotes during the night. I got up, got my food bag and ate my breakfast back in my tent, sleeping bag wrapped around me, still warm. I was tempted to just lay back and close my eyes again, but instead I released the air from the mattress to make myself get moving. I packed and left camp just before 8:30. Later than planned for a long day, but not as late as it could have been if I had fallen back to sleep!

The sun was gorgeously shining through the trees just far enough away for me to see the brightness, but not feel any of it. The leaves seemed to change even more overnight, it officially feels like winter is coming.. although I hope it takes its time. When I hiked through a field on the way to the top of Big Butt Mountain, there was frost on the grass.

Speaking of Big Butt Mountain-what a name.. and a lack of exciting views. There were actually none, I even took the side trail and did a little rock scrambling to get to the actual top, and only saw the trees surrounding the rock slab I was standing on. Welp, no time to fuss over extra work with no reward.. I had some mileage to make!

From there I seemed to stay on a ridge line for a while. I had stunning views off to my left, and then came across Harold’s Rock early afternoon. Harold was a trail maintainer and active hiker, over many years he talked the others into agreeing to put “his rock” on top of this ridge line so people would have a nice place to sit while eating a snack or their lunch. While there was a sign telling me this, there was also an older man there telling me this, too. He had met Harold once, hiking past this very spot.

We both ended up eating our lunch in a different spot down off the top and in the shade. I forget his name but he was sweet and so was his dog. We chatted during my whole lunch, as I pet his pupper (that was sad I wouldn’t share said lunch with it). There was a group of 13 men (appearing to be in their late 30s or early 40s) that came through our lunch spot 1-2 at a time.. this sweet man told each one of them that I’m a thru hiker and almost done with the whole trail. He was bragging on me like we were family, and it was so very precious to be a part of. I bet his grandkids adore him.

After eating, he carried on his way and I went mine. My way ended up being a long downhill stretch that was covered by the green tunnel. It was refreshing, easy, and all around good hiking. However, that eventually came to an abrupt end.. and the climbing began.

I had 3.8 miles of hellaciously steep uphill climbing to do.. every mile or so of that 3.8 would briefly saunter off flat or slightly downhill before absolutely crushing my calves in its next ascent. It was brutal. I had to take several breathing breaks and several more “Jesus Christ, are you kidding me?!” cursing breaks. Eventually, just after 5:30, I made it to the shelter I was aiming for. If I had crossed any water before then, I think I would have stopped early, I was beat up!

The second I scoped out the camping options around the shelter, I put my tent up on a flat spot on a hill away from the shelter itself. I could see at least 3 men down at the shelter and knew it would be loud down there. I unpacked before taking my food and heading to the shelter’s picnic area. I met 3 section hikers, 2 of which are brothers and who were building a fire. It was nice to have since the temperatures were already starting to get chilly and the sun wasn’t even down yet. I had already put on my puffy jacket, wool headband and my gloves.

I walked down to the stream and got my water to filter, then cooked my dinner while chatting with the guys. Another man appeared shortly after me and joined for dinner and fire conversation.. it’s usually the same stuff with section hikers-who has hiked what and how far and how long, how much packs weigh and what gear you like.. bla bla. I stayed and chatted until I finished devouring my food- thoroughly enjoying myself and the company but I felt wiped out from the day. I got good and toasty by the fire, thanked the guys profusely for creating it.. then I retreated to my haven on the hill after hanging my food bag on the provided bear cables. I actually like the bear cables and wish they were at every shelter. It takes the stress away for sure.

I had planned on typing all of this up once I got tucked into my sleeping bag, but I’ll be honest, I hardly typed out the notes for today before passing out, phone in hand. I woke up a little before midnight and decided I’d just have to wait and type up my thoughts some other time.. sleep won in the battle of importance. I’m here to tell you, it’s getting so hard to stay awake to get this done! I love the journaling every night, having these memories to reflect on in “detail” even if it is simple detail-but dang, my body is fighting me to sleep, and some times, it just gets to win. Today was a tough one, those killer climbs at the end being so unexpectedly difficult. So, with that, I’ll try to do better.. hopefully! Goodnight, y’all

Start: Spring Mountain Shelter (AT mi 285.9). Stop: Hot Springs, NC (AT mi 274.9). Today’s miles: 11 miles. Total AT mileage: 1918.2 miles.

All throughout the night, chestnuts fell from the trees above and pelted my tent. Before I put the earplugs in, it would make me jump every time one made contact. Once the earplugs were in, I slept so good.. I actually got up at 7 and got going by 8. Everyone else was still asleep, except for one of the sectioners in the shelter, who waved bye to me as I passed him.

The terrain was mostly easy going, a few small climbs but overall downhill all the way to Hot Springs, North Carolina. The trail had some pretty views, visible barely through the thick trees. There were a couple of spots to get a good view, including “Lovers Leap” and switch backs down the mountain until eventually walking along the French Broad River. The river was stunning and wider than I expected.

When I got to the road before climbing up a set of stone stairs to the bridge, a cat darted out to me and practically forced me to pet it, pick it up, and scratch its belly. I mean, I’ve never been a cat person a day in my life-but it is really starting to happen without my consent. Apparently being single in your 30s just attracts cats, regardless of your personal preference for them. They are starting to grow on me.. lord help me!

I walked through town and stopped in at an outfitter to resupply. I got my goodies and then met back up with Lizard across the street at a restaurant.. I ordered so much food and came no where near able to eat it all. Lizard struggled to finish hers too. We shared some appetizers, which didn’t make it easy for our entrees. We had jalapeño poppers, cheese sticks (homemade with meat in them), and tater tots with my hot fingers and her burger. And a beer or two, of course.

After lunch we walked over to the Hot Springs Resort and Spa. I booked a mineral spring soak in a hot tub at the spa, so we checked in and got taken back to our “spa location.” It was along the river and really serene. Our hour soak seemed to fly by, my muscles the happiest they’ve been-well, since the bachelorette weekend in the jacuzzi.. haha. It was fantastic! I was a prune by the time the guy knocked and told us our time was up. We got out and found some picnic tables to sit at and dry off-the resort doesn’t offer towels, and naturally we don’t carry one, due to the weight.

We dried out before getting our clothes back on, and then walking back to the little downtown area and going to the brewery, Big Pillow. They had live music starting soon! We got our beers and at some point got more food-tacos this time. Then enjoyed the singing and apparently stand up.. one guy got up there and started telling Halloween jokes.. him laughing at himself was far more funny than the actual jokes. It was a good time.

At 7:30, Sunshine from Happy Gnomad’s Hiker Hostel came and picked us up. We wound through the mountains for 15 minutes before getting there, to this perfect hiker haven. I got a private room, unpacked and showered, happy to be warm and dry in a cozy bed. I’m quite content here. Alright, it’s bedtime. Sweet dreams, y’all.