The Unpolished Princess

Start: Imp Shelter (AT mi 1886.8) Stop: Rattle River Hostel (AT mi 1895). Today’s miles: 8.2 miles. Total AT mileage: 870.3 miles

I woke up at 6 and decided it was too cold to attempt to get out of my mostly warm quilt.. so I slept in until 7:30. Eventually my bladder won the war, because if it weren’t for that, I’d probably still be sleeping now.. haha

I got up and got going just after 8am. It was cold enough that I hiked in my sleeping leggings, long sleeve shirt, and all my rain gear. The forecast didn’t call for any rain, but it was misty enough up in the clouds to threaten it anyway. I was slow going for a good 4 miles. The same stuff, up and over, climb and slide. I passed Mount Moriah and then started my way down, a descent I knew would end at a hostel. Hard to be in a bad mood when you know whatever happens-a hot shower and a bed are waiting for you.

I found a downed log by a creek crossing and ate my lunch around 11:45. I was too hungry to wait a second longer! And-I was looking forward to that Chick-fil-A sauce. Not long after packing back up, I started seeing more south bound folks. I chatted with Doolittle for a bit, she really gave me hope for the terrain getting better after my next 3-4 days.

Suddenly, without warning, the trail changed into a delightful, smooth, downward sloping ACTUAL footpath! I kept waiting for it to return to the mountaineering, but happily-it didn’t! I turned on some music and jammed out the whole way down to the hostel. I’d come up on people, briefly, and chit chat a little.. but man my mood was as good as it’s been in a long time! I was practically dancing down the trail and loving every second.

I got to the hostel and checked in. They’re pretty strict on their rules, so it was shoes and poles outside, pack on the pack hook, grab a towel and loaner clothes and then shower. After you shower, you’re allowed in the house and to your bunk. The pack, sleeping bag and that type gear wasn’t allowed inside, so I just took my toiletries and electronics-they washed all my clothes for me and returned them (actually very quickly).

I hung out outside in the sunshine with some other hikers, Flamingo and Lost&Found. We ordered some pizza and when it arrived we scarfed it down before going to dollar general for a resupply. The system here works out great. Everyone hung out around a fire talking, laughing, and shooting the shit. I hung out pretty late, not wanting to go climb up to my top bunk bed until I had to.. they aren’t the easiest to get in and out of as an adult with sore legs. Haha

Anyway, it’s bedtime now, and already there are folks snoring up a storm. Such is life in a hostel I guess. I think I’ll sleep well regardless! Goodnight, y’all!

Start: Pinkham Notch Visitor’s Center (AT mi 1873.7). Stop: Imp Shelter (AT mi 1886.8) Today’s miles: 13.1 miles. Total AT mileage: 862.1 miles

We both woke up earlier than we technically had to. I slept so good that when I heard a crick and rolled over to see what it was and realized Poptart was already awake-I happily went ahead and got up, too. Holy crap, there is a first for everything. Poptart said I didn’t even move last night, and I believe it. I fell asleep listening to the rain.. I briefly woke around 5am and had the fleeting thought of feeling chilly (I forgot the blanket Uncle Eddie got me downstairs and was so comfortable I didn’t think about it), but I was back to sleep before I knew it. It was the best night of sleep I’ve had in a while.

We packed up and headed downstairs with all of our stuff. I had a chocolate chip muffin and a monster energy drink: breakfast of champions. Uncle Eddie told us about a ski slope trail that also takes you up to the top of Wildcat D Mountain, which is what we had to go up today anyway. We thought on it and decided to “ski blaze” (Poptart’s term) our way up the mountain and not go up the AT, which is known to be difficult hand over hand climbing for 3 miles.

He dropped us off and we followed his directions to the far ski lift area and started looking for our way up. We were pretty sure we spotted the gravel ish looking “road” but to be sure, since this wouldn’t be on our app at all and neither of us had service, we asked the woman at the ski patrol hut to verify our plan.

We headed up PoleCat ski slope. Parts were very gradual and other parts were stair master steep, but the whole way I was just thrilled I wasn’t climbing up the way the AT intended me to. This insider information felt like a sweet gift during all the difficulty this section of trail has given me. Poptart spotted raspberries on the way up and we stopped to eat a few that were ripe, which only added to my delight.

When we got to the top of the mountain, we immediately saw two hikers coming out of the woods. They carried on and we stopped to put on our rain jackets because it was drizzling a little but already super cold and extremely windy. Our views were stunning and I was thrilled to find out the ski slope we came up was the same mileage (3 miles) as the part of the AT we skipped. And clearly the elevation was the same or very close. So, I don’t really feel like I cheated myself out of anything-besides a lot of irritation.

From there we had a bit more of a climb, which was rocky and ridiculous like the stuff we’re sadly starting to expect of this area. However, before we knew it, we reached the top of Wildcat Mountain. Then it was downhill to get to the Carter Hut, where we ended up eating lunch.
The Chick-fil-A sauce is a total game changer. It makes me actually excited for lunch time! I smothered my salmon with the sauce and ate every bite-happily. Normally I’m forcing myself to eat it. We sat and enjoyed the warmth of the hut and even got to have a free piece of cornbread, which was actually pretty good too.

The climb up to Carter Dome from the hut was long but the rocks were stepping rocks instead of climbing rocks, so I enjoyed it a lot. We also got some views before the clouds rolled in. The trail from Carter Dome all the way up and down the other peaks to North Carter Mountain was enjoyable. I stopped to take tons of pictures and just took in my surroundings. Poptart kept me laughing all day long. It was a great time.

And then we started going down North Carter Mountain. It just never seemed to end. We weren’t hiking quick to begin with, but it definitely got so much slower on that descent. We were once again sitting on the rocks to scooch down safely. Then the rain started coming down, so it became a slip and slide mixed with wet rocks and thick mud. Originally we were thinking of finding a stealth spot close-ish to to the shelter, to avoid both people and paying the $5 to stay. However, with the wind howling and attempting to blow us off the mountain and the fact that we were getting more and more drenched by the second-the shelter started sounding real nice.

It was just after 7:30pm when we made it to the shelter. To our surprise, no one else was in it! The caretaker came down to show us around and take our money.. while there were other hikers tenting there, the shelter was all ours for now! Holy cow! Could we have gotten any more lucky? We never actually saw anyone’s tent. One guy with a cute pup running around was in the cooking area, but that was the only other person we saw.

We unpacked and quickly got on our dry clothes. I was shivering so hard and the wind was chilling me to my bones. My hands felt numb, but they’ve been super sensitive ever since getting burnt on Mount Washington. We ate our dinner and chatted with the guy and his dog. He was just out for a weekend hike and was very nice. His stove wasn’t working with the wind, so I let him boil his water with mine. Hot food was the only thing keeping me semi warm, so I knew he had to have been cold. He was out there trying to get his stove to work since before we showed up at the shelter. Yikes.

We put up our food (bear box) and settled in for the night in the loft part of the shelter. It seemed clean and the caretaker said there haven’t been rodents.. so that put me at ease. It was so cold that it took awhile to get warm enough to fall asleep. I couldn’t type again because of it, so I didn’t get to type this blog post out until the following day-it feels safe to say that once I did fall asleep, I slept well. I did wake up when I’d roll over because of the quilt shifting and the coldness sneaking in. But it was still good sleep!

Anyway, another day down and another day closer to Katahdin, before the flip down to hike south. Thanks for reading along!

Start: Mount Madison Stealth Site (AT mi 1867.5). Stop: Pinkham Notch Visitor’s Center (AT mi 1873.7). Today’s miles: 6.2 miles. Total AT mileage: 849 miles

I woke up to clanking poles on rocks and thought it was a moose. Sadly, it was a crazy hiker coming up Madison for the sunrise. It wasn’t even 5am yet. Good for you, buddy. This happened several times but I didn’t get up to start packing until after 6. I was still just so exhausted.

I eventually did pack up, but instead of my normal routine, I did take my time eating my breakfast sitting on my ground cloth in my warm clothes wrapped with my quilt. Everything was already right there, why not?

I got to hiking just after 7am. I had to go the rest of the steep downhill to the campsite to get water, then some relatively minor ascents and descents (like 300 ft or less of elevation change) to get to Pinkham Notch Visitors Center, on the road. I decided after my hellish afternoon yesterday that I’d decide what I wanted to do by the time I got there and let my tent dry out. I could either get a hostel to come get me, sleep in town and really get my body clean and warm, or hike another 6-8 miles to stealth camp past another hut. We all know I refuse now to ever ask them for anything, so I wouldn’t be stopping at the hut.. although I do think it’s the last one I’ll have to deal with.

As I’m moving slowly down the rocky, now wooded path, I see stealth site after stealth site.. some with people still in them, some empty now.. some that were bigger than mine, some-not so much. I come across someone to my left just getting ready to get their day started. When I go to say, “good morning!” I realize it’s Poptart!! I haven’t seen her since New York!

I was thrilled! A friend! We ended up hiking the rest of the day together, chatting, talking about our tramiies and who is where and all that jazz. It made for a great day. Even though I did have my ankles try to kill me and I took a nasty fall. I was just happy I fell today and not yesterday. Lol

We got to Pinkham Notch just after noon. I laid my tent out to dry and we could see storm clouds rolling in. I didn’t have service, but the visitors center had a weather report for the area.. rain late afternoon, potential thunderstorms throughout the night, rain in the morning, then clearing up afterwards and for the following day. Hmmm. That sounds a lot like God telling me maybe I should get a room for the night and really let me and my tent dry out.

So, Poptart and I ate lunch at the Visitors Center. Her Uncle Eddie came to get her, because he lives in North Conway-you know the place-the town with the REI I’ve been to like 3 times. Lol While we’re all talking, they offer to let me come with them! NO WAY! The generosity was just amazing. I agreed, probably way too quickly. I grabbed my stuff and hopped in Uncle Eddie’s Jeep Grand Cherokee with Poptart and we were off.

He was such a sweetheart. We went to the house, unpacked and laid stuff out, realized what we needed for food and gear, and made our lists.. then took turns showering and resting. We all hung out together watching TV until Uncle Eddie cooked us hamburgers, corn on the cobb, and baked potatoes. We even had a Cesar salad beforehand. SHEESH! I felt like a princess for sure! And I still can’t believe they were so willing to have me tag along!

After cleaning up dinner, we headed to REI. I got some gloves for my hands that are still super sensitive, some sunblock stick for kids (super sensitive skin in general), and a new dry sack for my food bag.. mine was getting loaded down with ducktape attempting to patch its holes. Plus-I got a few probars, because I love those things.
Then came Walmart. Poptart found ChicFilA sauce and little travel sized squirt bottles-so now I’m toting some chicfila sauce of my own.. maybe that salmon at lunch tomorrow won’t be so gross! Hahaha

As we headed back to the house, the rain came and hasn’t let up since. I’m so glad I decided to trust my gut on cutting the day short, and I’m even more glad that Poptart appeared and invited me to stay and play with her and her uncle today. It’s truly been a wonderful day.

And now, with heavy eyelids, a full belly, and clean body, I’m going to sleep in a bed listening to the rain outside the window-and marveling in the fact that none of it will drip on me tonight! Haha
Sweet dreams, y’all