The Unpolished Princess

Start: Plumorchard Gap Shelter (AT mi 73.7). Stop: Unicoi Gap (AT mi 52.5). Today’s miles: 21.2 miles. Total AT mileage: 2140 .6 miles.

I woke up with someone shining their headlamp into my tent on their way to and from the privy. Thankfully, because of the earplugs, I couldn’t hear them.. but I was definitely annoyed-seeing how it was 5am and all. I rolled the other way and slept in until 7. When I got up to get my food bag, for my breakfast ritual alone in my tent, Jonathan, MudLantern, and Twig were all awake and talking. I waved a tired “good morning” and carried on walking. Yep-the trail isn’t making me a morning person.

By the time I finished my grits and coffee and started to pack, the colors from the sunrise were just starting to peek through the trees.. barely. When I walked out of camp at 8, there was a slight pink hue, MudLantern and Twig were gone, Jonathan was back in his sleeping bag. I yelled out a “bye!” And got one in return.

I hustled up and over the double humped mountain with no name that I could officially tell-but housed “Bull Gap” between the humps, so maybe it’s Bull Mountain-which felt like an accurate name as I was hoofing it up and over it. There was another little mountain to cross before getting to Dick’s Creek Gap. I showed up just a couple minutes after 9:45 and Jon, TownLegs’ husband was there waiting with a Gatorade for me. I happily hopped in his warm SUV after quick introductions. I was cold!

We chatted the whole way to Unicoi Gap where he dropped me off with my day pack. I had missed Jon every time he had previously came to visit TownLegs, which was often.. I was happy I got to meet him now though, on her last day. I started hiking back towards Dick’s Creek and he headed towards Springer Mountain to be there when TownLegs finished. Depending on where they were when I got done, they’d either come get me or I’d hitch to their hotel.

The slack pack was a tough one. I immediately went up Rocky Mountain, which made me huff and puff and say a prayer of gratitude that I didn’t have my full pack. Then, the second I was down that one, I went right up Tray Mountain-another wind sucker for sure. It took me some considerable time, even with the lightness of my day pack.

Close to the summit of Tray Mountain, I ran into Catapult and Spirit, two flip floppers I’ve passed a few times, almost always while I’m slack packing.. haha. We stopped and caught up a few minutes before I carried on northbound while they continued south. Then, just over the summit and trying to find somewhere to eat lunch out of the incessant wind, I saw Trippin and DeepFried (who hike with the other two, so it made sense to see all four together). I chatted them up awhile, even though all of us were shivering but not wanting to miss the opportunity to catch up a bit.

They’re all four summiting the day after me, and when they noted my confusion, since we’re practically in the same spot, they told me they were going to zero on Thursday because of the cold rain coming.. ahhh. That makes sense now. While standing there talking, Twig appeared. Once she got in on our conversation I was afraid I’d literally freeze to death right there on the mountain. Eventually we all started inching away in our respective directions until we got to throw in some “byes!” And “hope to see you soons!”

I found a campsite log to sit on down the mountain some and mostly out of the wind. I was eating my bagel sandwich when MudLantern came by. We were both way too cold for anything but a brief encounter. We congratulated each other, knowing after this moment it’s doubtful we’ll cross paths again, and said our “byes” too. I tried to inhale my sandwich as my body shivered. It’s just too cold.. even in layers I’m not staying warm, thanks to my lovely body sweating when I climb these mountains-and then the cold trying to freeze that damp sweat.

I got moving and tried to keep it quick enough to get warm, but not overly sweat-which is a ridiculous thing for me to try to do with this body. One does not simply happen without the other in this body. Maybe I’ll get lucky when I’m reincarnated, but for now, attempting that is just laughable, if you can laugh with your teeth chattering.

Anywho-I thought the toughness of the day was over until I smacked into Kelly Knob. It was probably only so strenuous because of being cold and tired, but I swear it kicked my butt and had me gasping for air like I was back on day one. Sheesh. It’s almost over, shouldn’t this feel easier? I guess not. The trail gives so much, but she also makes you work for every bit of it.

I managed to get up and over, and the downhill was much more kind than the ascent was. I even jogged a bit down some of it. Jon came to get me from the trail head just a little after 5:30.. I had sat on the ground to wait for him when a couple passed and then turned around to come back and ask if I needed a ride.. “it’s just too cold to leave you sitting out here..” and as I’m explaining, Jon pulled up! Literally less than 2-3 minutes all said and done. The couple was happy I wasn’t stranded and we all got in warm vehicles.

TownLegs was back at the hotel, showering. I was so excited to hug her and congratulate her that I was probably very annoying to be around for Jon. He’s too nice to ever tell me that though. We got to the hotel and I immediately hugged her, then apologized, since she was clean and I was most definitely not. We caught up a minute and then she gave me some of her clothes to put on after my shower, while ours washed.

That shower was glorious and I probably stood there way longer than necessary, making sure everything was perfectly thawed before getting out. I put on fresh clothes and we talked while waiting for the washer to finish. Once the clothes were in the dryer, the 3 of us headed out for our celebratory dinner for TownLegs! It was delicious! I had country fried steak with gravy, Mac and cheese, a loaded baked potato, like 5 rolls, and I put a hurting on the appetizers we shared.. onion rings and fried pickles.

We stayed so long, we were the last customers out. Trail talk when you haven’t seen a friend since the disaster of the Whites can go on for a while.. haha! Once back at the hotel, they let me sleep on the hotel room’s pull out couch so I wouldn’t have to pay for a room. They were so incredibly welcoming, and Jon wouldn’t let me A: buy their dinner, or B: buy my own. Talk about trail magic!

They were entirely overwhelming with their kindness. Rides, drinks, dinner, clothes, a place to sleep. I truly am so very very grateful. And, not to mention, the company itself was my absolute favorite part. I loved getting to be there for her finishing day. I feel like I’m a Tourist cousin! (TownLegs’ tramily is named the tourists, if I didn’t mention that before.. TownLegs, TBird, TieDye, Smiles, and DoubleDecker). I can honestly say I love these people.. and I truly mean it.

We didn’t stay up long once we were back in the room.. we talked a bit before all hitting the hay. It was much needed today! Sweet dreams!

Start:Unicoi Gap (AT mi 52.5). Stop: Neels Gap (AT mi 31.3 miles). Today’s miles: 21.2 miles. Total AT mileage: 2161.8 miles.

I slept hard with my earplugs in. When I woke up and tiptoed to the bathroom, I thought TownLegs and Jon were still asleep-they weren’t, they were hanging out in the hotel lobby until I woke up because they had already been awake for hours! It was only 7:45! Haha

I packed up my stuff and they drove me to Unicoi Gap, after kindly stopping at Hardee’s so I could get an egg and cheese biscuit (or three, don’t judge me..). We hugged bye, for the final time, and Jon took our picture. Her AT journey was complete now, day one of “after trail life” had begun for her, and it scares me a little.. because that day is quickly coming for me, too. I started up the relatively steep Blue Mountain as they pulled away, honking and waving to me as they went. They were in for a 9 hour road trip home after they stopped back by the hotel and loaded their belongings.

I took my time up Blue Mountain, finally posting a couple of the previous journal entries that I haven’t gotten a chance to upload-this time wasn’t because of lack of service, it was simply because I was spending every second I could with my friend and was too sleepy to attempt it last night after dinner. The uploading of pictures and journal entries distracted me from the climb itself, since I couldn’t attempt to hike fast while messing around on my phone.

Before I got to the top, I ended up in my rain gear.. cold creeping in on my hands and legs, and little spritzes of rain here and there, but the rain was only during that climb. When I did make it to the top, I felt successful-the blog was updated AND the hard part of the day was completed! From there the trail was mostly downhill and meandering. I still had a lot of miles to cover, so I tried to keep my pace up by listening to my marathon running playlist.

It was cold enough to keep me in my rain gear throughout the day, and in my fleece and gloves, too. The weather app claimed it would start pouring by 4, then not until 6, and then not until 9pm! Talk about getting lucky! I mean, I was hiking in a cloud all day, so their were no views, and I was cold, but I wasn’t wet AND cold. That’s really the important thing. It could always be worse. And with the dampness and the mist, the leaves were shimmering and the trees were looming overhead, I felt like I was walking through a movie scene.

I knew all day that I had a bailout spot if I was too cold and miserable to continue.. I could stop hiking and get picked up at 15.8 miles at Tesnatee Gap, or I could hike another 6 miles to Neels Gap.. if I went to Neels Gap, I was under the impression of more options for sleeping inside. With the rain coming overnight and continuing all night and all day tomorrow, I knew I wanted to be inside, warm and dry no matter what, and then would suck up the rain tomorrow-but probably get to another hostel at Woody Gap or Gooch Gap, depending on how far I got today. If I stopped early today, I’d have to hike farther tomorrow in the rain or push it off to my last day before the approach trail-which made me nervous. I didn’t want anything to happen to make finishing Saturday a problem.

So, when I got to Tesnatee Gap at 3:50pm, I was anxious about knocking out 6 more miles.. knowing I’d be hiking the last bit in the dark more than likely. I started calling places for a bed for the night. I called the cabins at Neels Gap-they’re apparently closed on Wednesdays. Weird. I called the store at Neels Gap because they had a hostel listed on GutHook-the man politely told me that they didn’t open the hostel this year, but I could camp out back for free. Crap. I don’t want to camp in the rain!

Last but not least, I called a bed and breakfast, Your Home In The Woods. Mrs. Bonnie answered and said she had room for me, and that I should text her husband Paul when I’m close to confirm a pick up time.. she’d be at church, and if I didn’t text him, he’d be sitting at Neels Gap waiting for me by 6:30, just in case I lost service and couldn’t update him. Wow. Talk about kindness.

I made it up and over Cowrock Mountain, Wolf Laurel Top, and Levelland Mountain in decent time, which had me walking into Neels Gap and Mountain Crossings stone building at exactly 6:30pm. I was shocked I had made it when I said I would, and managed to not need my headlamp yet-although I was probably about 10-15 minutes from its use being a requirement. I took a picture of the Shoe Tree.. the tree full of shoes hikers toss up, either in victory for Southbounders almost done, or in defeat for northbounders deciding to call it quits. Personally, I think it’s more of the latter-because I know I wasn’t throwing my shoes up there with more than 30 miles to go to the end..

As I snapped the picture of the shoe tree, Paul greeted me warmly and then let me load into his truck. He gave me a homemade lemon scone to munch on while he drove me to his home in Blairsville, only 15-20 minutes from where he picked me up. While he drove he pointed out things in the area, gorgeous views of the valleys and the pops of color showing off on some of the mountainsides.

I got a grand tour of he and Bonnie’s gorgeous home nestled in the woods. Then, he took me to my private room, with a private bathroom too! He told me dinner would be ready in about an hour, and that another hiker was here, too. He knew we had both heard of each other but hadn’t officially met yet-and I was excited to finally get the chance to meet the Sundae I’ve heard all about over the last 2 months! Lizard had hiked with her awhile, and so had Towelie and other friends, too! But, I didn’t let my excitement of meeting her slow down the chance of a hot shower, right now. Meeting new friends would have to wait until dinner.

I showered and dressed in my clean sleep clothes (thanks to TownLegs yesterday for letting me get everything washed while I wore her non hiker clothes), and then made my way to the dinner table. I finally met Sundae, and immediately saw why everyone adored her! She’s funny and open and a complete joy to be around. We never had a dull moment, between her, me, and Paul, conversation was ongoing and pleasant. Mrs. Bonnie ended up joining us at the tail end of our dinner, because she was at church for Wednesday night bible study.

Paul made us an incredible dinner: vegetarian chili with white rice, biscuits, and fresh salad. We all talked and ate, and then Sundae and I continued to talk and eat even more. Such a phenomenal home cooked meal, surrounded by wonderful people. Eventually, at almost 9pm, we retreated to our beds after determining a time to get up and get a move on in the morning. Sundae would be getting to Springer Mountain Shelter tomorrow night, and then wait to summit until Friday morning, when her dad got there to meet her! He will get to the parking lot and then hike the mile uphill to the shelter and they’ll do the summit and the 8.8 miles of the approach trail together.

As I was walking to my room, Paul let me know that he and Mrs. Bonnie would have room for me to stay tomorrow night too, since it’s going to be raining all night tonight and all day tomorrow.. which then, he said, “you could slack pack tomorrow, if that’s something you’d be interested in..” if only he knew I’m basically the slack pack Queen these days.. hahaha! I happily squealed a yes that made him laugh. Why wouldn’t I want to slack pack over Blood Mountain tomorrow when it’s going to be pouring on me all day and never get over 46 degrees?! I’m giggling still thinking about how the Unpolished Princess grew up to be the Slack Pack Queen! Hysterical, really.

Now, laying here I’m both happy and sad. I’m thrilled I’ll be done in three days, while also sad over the same thought. I won’t miss the cold or the rain, but I think I am going to miss this trail, this community, this freedom from the normal day to day life. Don’t get me wrong, I’m looking forward to some of that normal life, too. But I think the trail is something that calls to you-and then never quite stops. I guess we will see..

Goodnight, y’all.

Start: Neels Gap (AT mi 31.3 miles). Stop: Gooch Gap (AT mi 16.9). Today’s miles: 14.4 miles. Total AT mileage: 2176.2 miles.

Sundae and I got to sleep in this morning two days in a row for me!). Breakfast was ready at 8:15, I was at the table with coffee in hand at 8:10. I could smell the bacon while I was getting ready. Mrs. Bonnie and Mr. Paul made us a spread: baked eggs in picante salsa with cheese (incredible, really. I think I’ll be making a whole30 version, sans cheese, when I get home), bacon, pancakes, and homemade gluten free muffins with almonds and other goodies in them. Plus coffee and juice! These two are quite the chefs!

Sundae and I took a picture before loading up in separate cars.. Mrs. Bonnie was taking me to Neels Gap, Mr. Paul was taking Sundae to Gooch Gap. I’ll be hiking today what she hiked yesterday, and then tomorrow I’ll be hiking what she’s hiking today.. obviously we both made a good plan since it’s the same itinerary!

Mrs. Bonnie dropped me off around 9:30 and I promised to update a pick up time for later when I had a better guess as to when I’d be getting to Gooch Gap. It was sprinkling, but not too bad, although the cold was definitely here to stay. I snapped a better picture of the Shoe Tree and then headed up the trail towards Blood Mountain. I’ve done this climb before, from another trail, and I was worried I’d be sucking wind and struggling. Honestly. I was at the top before I realized it.. the climb was nowhere near as hard as it was the last time I did it, then again, I was a good 30-40 pounds heavier then and hadn’t been hiking almost every day for almost 6 months when I did it before.

So, I made it to the top, rain coming and going, the cold staying put-making my hands red as the leaves when I’d take a glove off for a second to eat a snack (Mr. Paul’s muffins-I brought 4 with me..). Coming down the rock slabs originally had me nervous that I’d be slipping and falling like I did on the daily in New Hampshire and Maine-and yet-I stayed on both feet all day.. even during the descent with big rock steps. I was shocked and quite pleased with myself.

All of my views were stolen by the clouds, nothing to see but the same misty, foggy views from yesterday, but just like then, I still loved them. I could snap pictures of this trail weaving around trees with fallen leaves all around all day long.. clearly, because I do. The rest of the trail was a breeze. At some point I got hungry and wanted my lunch, but was too cold to sit and eat it. I took my day pack off, swigged some water, made my sandwich, put the pack back on and kept walking, eating as I went, trying to not get mustard on my gloves.

I got to a point and text Mr. Paul that I should be there by 4pm. I was actually going to get there a little sooner than that, but figured I could walk slow, upload pictures to the blog site, and if I got there too early I could start typing up today’s stuff. But, at 3:35 when I showed up, their car was there already and both Mrs. Bonnie and Mr. Paul were walking back from a little hike they decided to go on. I got a picture of them before we all got inside the car with the seat warmers on high.

They drove me back to the house in the woods, winding around curved roads with gorgeous views.. some better views than I got while hiking, honestly. They said every day the colors pop just a little bit more, then before long all of the leaves will have fallen and there will be a stark difference in the beauty-but still beauty all the same.

Once back at the house, I showered and then rested before dinner. Close to 7pm, dinner was ready and Sundae’s dad was here! He drove up today, will sleep here tonight, and then in the morning Mr. Paul will drop me off first, then take him to Springer Mountain to meet Sundae for her finish and the approach trail! He is so nice and we all four chatted throughout dinner.. which was spectacular, by the way.. biscuits and salad and a casserole with rice, chicken, corn, broccoli, cheese.. probably other things too, and then topped with shaved almonds.. whew. I won’t lie to you, I ate at least half of that casserole dish by myself, and when Mrs. Bonnie asked if I wanted to pack out the rest to eat tomorrow I made them all laugh over my excited “ohhhhh yesssssss.”

Mr. Paul is going to email me the recipe. It’s good.. like, not just because I’m a Thru hiker.. like it’s actually really good. Anyway. Now, I’m laying in bed, unable to get pictures to upload to Facebook.. and sore as can be, but over the moon reflecting on this experience. How lucky am I that my last “in town” stay was with a couple that treated me like their granddaughter? I’m so grateful, beyond words for this entire experience, and mostly for the people I’ve been blessed to meet.

Tomorrow, when they drop me off at Gooch Gap, I’ll be on my last “real” day of the Appalachian Trail. I’ll technically be stopping only a quarter of a mile from the southern terminus to camp for the night.. that way, when I get up Saturday morning and pack up to leave, I’ll get to the summit sign within minutes, and then only have the approach trail to finish this epic journey. I wanted to get to the end of the trail the same day as I finished the Approach Trail, so it’s all officially on the 6th of November-exactly 6 months to the day from when I started.

“They” say that on average it takes 5-7 months to complete a thru hike of the Appalachian Trail.. and on this one, I don’t mind being exactly average at all. I’ve never been the fastest hiker, I’ve never claimed to be a purist, but I’ll get to say I’ve walked the whole way. My feet have gotten me every single step of the way, most of the time with my full pack on, some of the time with the ease of only carrying that day’s necessities.. I’ve got a continuous footpath that I’ve created, from Georgia to Maine-starting in the middle and making it to Mount Katahdin in Maine, then coming back to where it all began and making it home to Georgia.. sometimes I hiked northbound, sometimes I hiked southbound, once I even hiked miles out of order.. but the path is connected the entire way. I’m pretty damn proud of that. And if something were to happen between now and Saturday, I think I have it in me to crawl the rest of the way if I have to. If New Hampshire and Maine taught me anything, it’s that I’m a whole lot tougher than I give myself credit for sometimes.

Anyway. I better get some shut eye. We have to be up early tomorrow to get Sundae’s dad to her so she can finish this thing 🙂 Sweet dreams, y’all.