The Unpolished Princess

Start: 69.4

Stop: 80.6

Today’s miles: 11.2

Total PCT miles: 268.4

I really loved today. I slept phenomenally, I got up and packed before 7, and the 4 of us all headed out at about the same time-all with the same mission: get to High Bridge Camp before 12:30. That’s when the bus to Stehekin comes and it doesn’t come back until 3pm.. which would have been fine, too. But earlier is better, right?

I hiked a bit with Heidi, trail name Silky, an Australian teacher who is quick witted, funny, insightful and very upbeat, and her hiking partner, Maddie, an Australian midwife who is potentially one of the most genuinely kind and compassionate people I’ve met-while also being very chill and fun to be around. The three of us walked across several swing bridges and then chatted about life off and on until the hills slowed me down and they got ahead of me.

That was ok, I love getting to know folks but trying to talk and walk up a mountain (even a small one today) is quite embarrassing lol.. so, for the rest of the time I listened to my audiobook. We had 11.2 miles to get done in 5 hours. Having a deadline meant not enjoying the beauty as much as I’d have liked, like the gorgeous water crossings and little lakes out of no where.. and a MASSIVE tree that looked biblical Maddie spotted. Even still, I soaked in what I could and loved every second.

I made it to the bridge at 11:58. A whole 32 minutes early! Apparently I was only a few minutes after the Aussies, and then Margot got there not long after me! Perfect! I checked out the Stehekin river passing below the bridge, the teals of that glacier looking water were simply gorgeous. We’re technically still in the North Cascades National Park, and y’all know I love a National park 😉

The bus got to us right on time, and as the passengers disembarked, mostly day hikers, it started to sprinkle. Once we got on the bus, it looked like real bad weather was coming.. I was very happy I made this bus and didn’t have to wait around in the rain for the 3pm one!

The bus stopped at the bakery for 15 minutes before continuing in to town. I got some kind of mushroom, pesto, heaven filled breaded thing and a pecan sticky bun. DE-LI-CIOUS. The four of us ate on the bus so we wouldn’t get left. Once in town, we had to figure out the lay of the land. Stehekin is only accessed by hiking in, like we did, boating in across a lake from Chelan, or flying in on a small plane. That’s it.

Because of its remoteness, the town has zero cell phone service. Like NADA, zip-none. The one lodge in town, connected to a general store and next to the post office, offers WiFi for $5 for 24 hours AND they only give out 30 a day because otherwise their system would get overloaded and everything would crash. Cool cool. Because of knowing all of that, I decided to enjoy my friends today, and then get the WiFi in the morning and do my best to get all the things done I need to. Like upload 9 posts, check out the snow coming up (there will be some), download an app that has more roads and trails apparently and works very well without service, download some audiobooks.. sheesh, that’s already sounding stressful.

We sat for a bit under the deck of the lodge, waiting to see what the weather would do. No one wants to set up a tent in a storm, and it was early still-plenty of time for it to pass. Thankfully, it never came. But while we were waiting I got myself a can of Pinot Noir. Yep, a can. Whatever.

We walked up to the campground and set up our tents. We talked awhile, laughing all around, at times with literal tears running down my face (this was probably the wine’s fault). Margot made the choice to wait for tomorrow to shower and do laundry so it’ll give herself something to occupy her time.. and I agreed to do the same. Eventually I made my way back to the lodge and sat on the deck charging my stuff. When everyone else got there, we waited for the restaurant to start serving dinner and then went inside to order.

I had fish and chips and it was fantastic. I’m just now realizing I obviously liked all my food and ate it too fast to remember to take a picture of it! Ha, maybe I’m getting a bit of hiker hunger? Or maybe it’s just the excitement of it not being ramen noodles or mashed potatoes. Either way, please know I thoroughly enjoyed my meals, even if they are pricey.

We hung around until our stuff was charged and the restaurant was cleaning up, and headed back to our tents. We noticed a line of people going into the visitor center, so we joined-because why not? I’m still not sure what they were celebrating, but they had food and a band set up, a little picture taking area and all sorts of National park stuff. I got my stamp and sticker for my national park book (another one I get to scratch off the poster Jennifer got me!) and the others talked with the ranger about trail conditions.

That was the topic of conversation once back at our tents, the ones that are now surrounded by loud non PCT hikers who are not currently in bed at 9:40pm like I wish they were. Apparently we have 50 good miles out of here south, and then we hit “sketchy snow” that caused one hiker to turn around and back track to Stehekin. They did say that they only hear from hikers when they don’t make it through, they never hear from the hikers that do-and I think quite a few people are ahead of us and must surely be making it, right?

Either way, it does no good to worry about it right now.. we don’t have service to verify anything and cross check with postholer and Facebook groups and all do that. Something tells me a good bit of tomorrow will be dealing with that. Oh, also, another hiker that I’ve leap frogged with a bit, Strider, came into town today and said she slipped right where I did before Cutthroat Pass and had to scramble around the scree and boulders and vertically climb back out, too. I think she did it alone though, and that makes me sad.. I know she had to be terrified. She did it yesterday too, and was already set up at Six Mile Camp when I got there last night-so she fell before I did! Crazy.

Anyway. I think it’s sounding real earplug time, if ya know what I mean. Group camping can be very annoying. And while I’m happy I’m with new friends and making connections, I do really wish I was in a motel, Lodge, hotel, something with a bed and no people when I closed the door. Hopefully, when I make it to Steven’s Pass in so 7 odd days (starting Monday or Tuesday, because I’m waiting for my resupply box), I can make that happen.. and decent service, too.
Okie dokie, goodnight y’all.

I woke up to the sound of those same non-thruhikers talking that I fell asleep to last night. So irritating.. but I did sleep great so I can’t complain, really. I gathered up my dirty clothes and my electronics and headed down to the lodge.

I set my stuff down with Heidi and went inside to order breakfast. Stuff was charging, my burrito came out quick, life was great. Margo came over and the three of us talked a bit. Sometime after 10, Margo and I went to do laundry and shower. We shared a load of laundry and used the detergent pods someone left behind-because the store only sells the bag of like 20 instead of individually like any business that caters more to hikers. I don’t think they like us much.

I showered first and it was a quick quarter operated one.. much nicer than Fish Lake in my opinion. Someone had left their mini shampoo and conditioner bottles and I was THRILLED about that. I had to awkwardly air dry again.. least favorite part, but man feeling clean felt great! While Margo showered, I painted my nails and laid on a picnic table.

Waiting on our laundry, A-Train and Drake showed up! The day in the snow they decided to set up camp where Wolf, Pica, and FoodTruck camped the night before-the rainy but snow free campsite. They just didn’t want to risk climbing back up that elevation into more snow, especially when all of their layers were wet. Smart choice.

They started doing their laundry and shower chores, Margo and I decided to walk to the bakery, and Maddie joined us. We walked and talked and got a lift half way. I ate another pesto mushroom croissant (Margo says that’s not a croissant lol) and some pizza slices. Not too bad! But definitely better yesterday right off the bus and first access to non trail food.

Marquis and the couple Margo had been hiking with before catching up with me (Annie and Riley) got off the bus while we were there! I was so happy to see more people we knew 🙂 They had to hop back on the bus though to get to town and set up camp, we knew we’d see them again soon.

We strolled on our way back, talking, laughing, stopping by everything we passed.. including a garden that sells local honey harvested from the bees they keep, goat milk cheeses and all kinds of other things. Beautiful set up, and refreshing to see. It makes me want to have a green thumb and grow my own veggies-but let’s be real, I’m ever home long enough.. and Aunt Kathy is the one with the green thumb.

We made it back to town and when we saw Annie and Riley, Annie had a snow basket for a trekking pole she found on trail that she was going to put in the hiker box.. IT WAS MINE!! I had lost it day before yesterday and spent 20-30 minutes backtracking looking for it! How perfect!

More hikers started to show up, Wolf & Pica, FoodTruck, Marquis, several we didn’t know. There’s an area under the deck to the lodge that we all hung out at for hours talking. Margo and I ended up getting some dinner to go and eating down there, too. Everyone laughing, cutting up, getting serious talking about the snow coming up and their plans.

Maddie made the big decision to get off trail. The bouncing around, changing plans, pushing miles in scary situations just wasn’t the headspace they wanted to be in or their idea of spending their time wisely, simply because these stresses aren’t a good time and aren’t fun-I totally get it. Another hiker, Peaches, decided the same thing today, too. It makes me so sad, the challenges we’ve been thrown have been tough, and it makes me wonder how far away I am from one more sketchy area or flip decision causing me to change my mind, too.

Eventually we made our way back up this hill from hell to our campsites. It’s actually warm tonight, which is quite the happy change.. and, because I’m surrounded by actual PCT hikers, it’s almost completely silent at 9:40pm, with over 10 tents set up. Hiker midnight is legit. Goodnight, y’all.

Start: 80.6

Stop: 85.7

Today’s miles: 5.1

Total PCT miles: 273.5

I slept so good! I even got up early, without any prompting, to get on the WiFi at the lodge and try like hell to get my blog posts up. That WiFi isn’t wonderful, but it was faster with the majority of the people with access being asleep still.

I was sitting there at 7am and to my delight, Maddie was down there too, sitting on the dock reading a book. There’s just something about some people that you just feel in your soul are solid and good and insightful in ways I don’t think I am. Even at 7am my heart felt a little heavy that they’d be leaving today.

I got breakfast right as they opened the door at 8am, another burrito, just as yummy today, too. I paid for my next WiFi voucher and continued on my mission to upload my posts. The pictures to download to the posts take FOREVER on good WiFi. It was slow going, certainly, and I definitely wouldn’t have enough juice to post my pictures to Facebook.. that’s gotta wait for another town and legitimate service.

I talked to mom and that always makes me happy. Yesterday I got to talk to Aunt Kathy and Uncle Keith, too. I’m missing home a little bit. Not having an easy connection out here has been more difficult for me than I imagined it would be. Simply because a week at a time is long when you’re experiencing incredible things, but can’t tell the ones you love about it yet.

I went to pack up my stuff at 9:30 and then left everything at the picnic tables to walk to the post office. My box wasn’t here! Noooo! The woman told me to come back later, like between 11-2 and hopefully it’s on the incoming shipment. Because this town is so remote, we have to wait on the daily ferry that brings the day’s mail. Ok, no problem.

I was shocked at how many of my new friends were willing to not leave out to hike until I got my box. Some definitely still hit the trail at a normal time, but Marquis, Margot, and Silky were dead set on not leaving me. A-Train, Drake, Wolf, and Pica already decided they were going to zero today regardless.

While we waited, some of us went swimming in the lake for a bit. Margo is a legit long distance swimmer and loved every moment of being in that very cold water. I swam a while, too, not nearly as long as her, but longer than anyone else lol something about beautiful water, cold or not, it’s meant to be enjoyed. And we did just that! It took awhile to dry off in the sun afterwards, but it was awesome!

My box wasn’t there when I went to check, and the woman told me to double check the bear boxes that the ferry folks put the UPS and the FEDEX boxes in. I told mom specifically to send it USPS only, and in a priority mail large box-but lo and behold.. there was my package! The one at least 3 other people waited to hike out for.. haha Thank god it was there, but I felt real bad that everyone waited around for me, and were willing to wait until 11-2 TOMORROW too before hiking out. Wow.

Once I had my box and was opening everything up and organizing-everyone was quickly like, “let’s get this next bus then!” Which was literally already parked next to us and about to leave. I rushed to get my stuff together, snatched my phone off the charger-hoping it had enough, and got on the bus. We stopped a the bakery again, on the way-and I got my 3rd pesto/mushroom/Heaven croissant and a cinnamon roll.

We got dropped off and naturally it was pouring down rain. We all got under a ranger’s porch waiting out the storm. Within an hour we started hiking. We made it 5 miles to a rushing creek and set up camp. Silky and Pebbles (Marquis) made a fire and the four of us sat around it eating dinner and laughing so hard I could cry just thinking about it. These three are just my favorites. Hilarious and yet still capable of quality conversation, too. Like fun to be around on the surface, but I’m certain I like them on a deeper level as well.. the trail does that-brings out vulnerabilities and causes people to get close quick. I love making these connections.

The fire is out and it’s a little more chilly than the last two nights back in Stehekin. I think we’re planning 14 miles tomorrow and will take it easy before hitting the snow. I personally really don’t like the idea of the snow that’s coming, but I’m praying that being with people will make it easier for me, and possibly even enjoyable too.
Ok, I’m tired. Goodnight!