Ah, so, I got my room by 4:30! I was so glad that man didn’t call and say, “sorry, we actually are full tonight!” I would have probably had a full blown meltdown! The room was gorgeous, too. The outside isn’t much to write home about, but the inside was redone, with stone shower flooring and a waterfall shower head, exposed beams and a massive king sized bed with the fluffiest of pillows. I showered, started my laundry, and relaxed.
Once it was time to put my clothes in the dryer, I text Pebbles, he met me and Ellie at McDonalds. A cheap dinner and a new friend! We talked and ate (one of us constantly going back for “one more thing..” I think the hiker hunger has set in hard!). Once it got dark, we said bye to Pebbles as he walked to his tentsite and Ellie and I made our way back to the motel. Yall. I slept like a baby.
I didn’t stir until 7:45am. I packed, chatted with Ellie as I walked out. She’s having to zero here while waiting for new shoes to arrive. I know that pain. I walked down the road to a tiny restaurant inside a gas station, Chaco Grill, where I met Pebbles and got 2 breakfast burritos and some Fry Bread to share. The burritos were phenomenal.
We hiked out around 9am, and took the old CDT route, which led us away from the area known for loose dogs attacking hikers. It was a paved road to a gravel road to a dirt road to a trail. It was the same old thing until we hit the actual trail. Nothing very exciting, all residential for the most part.
We ate lunch sitting at a stream right at the start of the trail itself. Then, the elevation continued to gain as we walked, and the beauty got more incredible with every step. I think this has been my favorite day on trail so far! I mean, yesterday truly takes the cake, but views wise: today! There were firs, pines, aspens all around, and then green mossy meadows and wildflowers as far as the eye could see. Butterflies and birds.. I was seconds from starting a musical I was so happy.
Water was everywhere, and even with wet feet my mood couldn’t be dampened. It was like magic. Blue skies, and just.. LIFE.. everywhere. I was in love. We ended up cowboy camping in a little meadow, far enough away from all of the widow makers. I can hear elk bugling in the distance, and birds are still singing, even with the sun about to set. I’m pretty dang content. Goodnight, everyone!
Even though I was so full of gratitude last night, I ended up being so close to tears. After 30 minutes or so of trying to fall asleep, my feet wouldn’t stop throbbing.. I’m not much of a crier, so I refused to let the tears start, knowing if I did I wouldn’t be able to stop them. I popped up at some point and took some ibuprofen and then propped up my food bag to elevate my feet on. Eventually, sometime after 11pm, I fell asleep.
I woke up this morning around 6 and started packing by 6:10. I went ahead and took more ibuprofen, even though my left pinkie toe blister apparently popped during the night, so it wasn’t as painful. I slowly got my crap in my bag and took down my damp tent, then walked over to Animal and Pebbles. Squirt had just started walking trail, and Animal had hot water for me to make my coffee, and even had creamer. What delicacies!
We snapped a quick picture and said our “see ya laters.” We were hiking by 6:45, not terrible seeing as how we chatted a bit with Animal before leaving. The guys with motorcycles were up and attempting to get their bikes to start. We never saw them leave, but Animal passed us as we were taking the turn off the dirt road. It wasn’t 10-15 minutes up trail when I had to stop and go dig a hole. We’ll blame that on the hot coffee, and not on the bratwurst, burger, potato salad, and pound of coleslaw I ate last night. No shame.
Once I got going again, the trail was a stunner! It meandered around and eventually up the mesa we saw in the distance from camp. Parts were slick with that thick mud, but it was all pretty manageable. I surprisingly never slipped or fell, so, I’ll take the win. The views from the top of the mesa were so picturesque. I stopped and stared out from just about every angle, since the trail basically followed the mesa all the way around to the opposite side, before starting its way down into the valley below.
The valley was basically a huge cow pasture, with some trees and lots of grass, mud, and a little bit of flowing water from all the recent rain. I startled one baby calf while she was sipping water, and try as I might, she would not come back to the water. She just kept running up the trail, stopping to look at me-see me-and then start running again. Poor baby.
Eventually the trail passed a solar cow trough that I got water from, and then it reconnected to a dirt road that went on to dead end at the highway that takes you into Cuba, New Mexico. The road walking was way less fun today on sore feet, but 13 miles into town is a hell of a lot better than 21 miles into town, which would have been the case, if not for Animal and Squirt, and their incredible generosity.
When I got into town, I realized I still didn’t have service. I walked to the motel that Pebbles and I had talked about, and the sign said “No Vacancy” and there was no sign of Pebbles anywhere. He was only like 10 minutes ahead of me on the highway, I could see him during some of the straight aways. Since I didn’t have service, I gave the motel guy Pebbles’ number.. he said he’d call us when he got a room clean. Cool cool.
I walked across the street to a chicken and BBQ place, washed my nasty hands (they smelled awful after knocking some mud off of my leg, mud that must have been mixed with cow poo-bc it was RANK), and then messaged Pebbles on my Inreach to tell him where I was. He met me there and had lunch too. He had gone into the Family Dollar to get a couple things for his resupply right when he got to town, so that’s why I couldn’t find him. He then told me then that he planned to camp for $5 behind the dispensary instead of sharing the motel room for the night. Ummm. Ok. Not me.
Lunch was pretty good. I got a burger (not as good as Animal’s last night) and some fries, plus a side of Mac and cheese. It hit the spot. Pebbles got Mac and cheese too, and then this couple offered him the rest of their chicken bucket because they couldn’t eat it all. It was a perfect situation, because I wouldn’t eat chicken off the bone either way, and he devoured it. Win-win!
After we ate, we headed to the small grocery store and got our resupply stuff. I then walked up to the hardware store to get fuel for my stove, while Pebbles set his stuff up in the area owned by the dispensary. There’s just no way I would rather do that than sleep in a bed tonight, especially the way my feet are at the moment. I need my amenities. Budget be damned.
From there, we met at the post office and mailed our resupply to Ghost Ranch.. which is only 2.5 days away from Cuba. I’m slightly concerned that it won’t make it on time, and we’ll be stuck zeroing in a resort camp that charges $35 to set up a tent. But, what can ya do? We’re at the mercy of the post office Gods. And honestly, I wouldn’t be mad at a zero, regardless of the costs if we’re being honest.
Now, we’re sitting outside my motel-still waiting on them to tell me a room is clean. Pebbles is hanging out with me, since there’s shade here. The plan is to take a shower and do my laundry once they let me into a room.. and then relax with my feet up until morning. It’s just after 4pm.. so, fingers crossed this happens soon, or my ass might be camping against my will.
This town is.. odd. It’s all spread out along this one main road-which has tractor trailers constantly going by, along with everyone else. There’s no red lights or crosswalks. We met another hiker, Ellie, who says it’s sketchy at night here, with a lot of homeless roamers. I plan to be in bed before that’s an issue.
Well, I’ll update the rest of my day tomorrow-for now I’ll just wait for my room! Until then!
When I say the trail provides, boy does it! Pebbles was packed and on trail before I ever even got out of my tent. I woke up with my feet still throbbing and wondering why the hell I’m even doing this. I can’t keep up with him, and honestly, if my feet and legs continue to hurt like this, I don’t plan on trying. It might be time to let him hike ahead on his own so I can quit feeling like I’m holding him back. It’s frustrating as hell, but he is so much younger and fitter than me.. so why keep trying to keep up when it’s just making me and him miserable?
I left only 20 minutes after Pebbles, but man I was hobbling. Every step hurt, and I was so very slow going. And I decided I didn’t care. The trail was pretty gorgeous, so I did my best to just soak that in, and tell myself that if it’s time to split up, it’s time-we need to both hike our own hike.
Around 7:30, I came across two guys at a Bronco at a dirt road crossing. They offered me a Gatorade, so I took it and chatted with them while I drank it (mainly so I could give them the empty bottle back.. I didn’t want to tote it). Squirt is hiking the CDT now, and his friend, Animal rented the Bronco and is slack packing him for a few days while they hike and explore together! So cool! Animal hiked the CDT in 2016, and had been looking for ways to give back to current hikers, so while he and Squirt do their thing, any hikers they come across they offer trail magic to. I want to do this!
The Gatorade rejuvenated me and really perked up my mood. Pebbles was no where to be seen, but I was no longer down in my feelings. The ibuprofen probably also kicked in, too. My little miracle anti-inflammatory drug. I was happy as a clam and smiling at every little bush and flower as Squirt came flying past me. He was kind enough to slow down and chat a minute before heading off at a very fast pace. He’s like Pebbles (plus maybe 20 ish years), 6 foot something and thin with a long stride, and-he’s slack packing-so not toting any weight at all on his back. He was out of sight within minutes of passing me!
When I got to the next dirt road crossing, Pebbles was sitting there with Squirt, Animal, and the Bronco, drinking coffee! They offered to slack pack the two of us the next 5 miles! On the day my feet needed it the most, these two come out of the woodwork and help a girl out! We haven’t seen other hikers AT ALL practically, and here we are getting slack packed! See. The trail provides.
I happily slung my whole pack in the Bronco, only bringing a water bottle. 5 miles? I could go without everything for 5 miles! We started off together, the three of us, and then even going much faster myself, those two were way faster than I’d ever be! I’d have to actually run to keep up. No thanks! I told them to go ahead and just enjoyed my 5 mile pack free hike.
The terrain was up and over mesas, with desert all around. It honestly felt like being in Monument Valley. Stunning views all around, rock formations of all kinds, pinnacles and sweeping valleys between them all. I was in awe the entire 5 miles. The sky was overcast and I could see storm clouds rolling in, but even that added to the beauty of it all. I was so so content.
When I got to the meeting point, everyone was there and starting to eat lunch. I did the same, sitting on the ground listening to them chat. Animal and Squirt wanted to know if we wanted to slack to the next road crossing, and camp there with them.. which would be the 20 miles Pebbles and I was planning on today anyway (that I 100% did NOT think I was going to make it to this morning). We said we were in, and got to hiking.
More gorgeous views and the clouds were rolling in thick with rain.. but none had dropped from the sky yet. How lucky were we?!
Until, that is, I got to a road that I wasn’t expecting to see everyone at, because it was way too soon.. apparently, the road Animal wanted to camp at was impassable, so he quickly whipped around the Bronco and got to this road crossing to cut us off. The deal was either we take our packs from him now, and camp where we originally intended, without them, we hike 13 miles on the trail to the next road crossing, or we hike 10 miles on the dirt road to that same road crossing and camp with them.
If we took options 2 or 3, we’d slack pack it and not have the full weights of our packs. With the storm rolling in and sure to pound us at any minute, I didn’t feel safe taking the trail, as it went higher and more exposed than the road. When I pointed that out, Pebbles and Squirt quickly agreed: road walk 10 miles and camp with Animal! Heck yeah!
So, off we went. Within 20 minutes, the sky let out all of the anger it was holding. Lightening, thunder, and so much rain! I was worried about Animal navigating these back county dirt roads in the downpour, because I could barely see through it and it was like being stuck in quicksand. The mud just continues to cake and cake on your shoes to where lifting your leg feels like 30 pounds are attached to each foot. It was tough going. And when you pick up any speed at all, it’s a slip and slide!
We could see the Bronco’s tire tracks on the road, and where he slide a bit at times too. When I finally turned the corner and could see that gorgeous SUV in the distance, I all but screamed! I was so damn happy! Plus, Animal was going to make us all dinner! If I could have ran without falling in that mud, I would have!
I made it to everyone just before 6:30pm! Animal made us grilled brats, hamburgers with cheese, avocado, tomato, and lettuce, potato salad and coleslaw. I ate like a flipping pig! Once everyone had their feel, which I made sure Squirt and Animal were done, I demolished the rest of the coleslaw. Talking with them and Pebbles, laughing, eating good food, enjoying everything about the crazy day and the trail and how it all works out how it’s supposed to, all it combined just had me so freaking thankful for this day. I truly didn’t think I’d make the 20 miles to catch up to Pebbles, let alone 26 miles with new friends. I’m beside myself with gratitude.
Anyway. We ate and then Pebbles and I set up our tents on one side of the dirt road, Squirt set his up on the other side and closer to the Bronco, Animal set his sleep stuff up inside the Bronco. As we were all setting up and winding down for the night, close to dark, 3 motorcycles/dirt bikes come squawking through. As they go over the cattle guard the dirt road intersection, across from us, 2 of the 3 bikes shut off. Uh oh. Apparently, the thick mud did something to their clutches.
We listen to the 3 of them freak out, panic, and attempt to work it out. Animal starts to walk over it offer his assistance in anyway, and a dude waves him off. Ok, figure it out yourselves then. And after 30 or so minutes of revving engines and bikes not moving, they decide they need to just set up camp tonight and deal with it in the morning. So, the three of them are across the dirt road from Pebbles and I, and diagonal from Animal and Squirt.
As I lay here in my tent, motorcycle guys are all on their individual phones telling their people about their mishap. I get it, but also, it’s after hiker midnight now, so please shut up. Eh, whatever, my belly is full and my heart is content. I guess it’s time to try to sleep regardless. Because we got an extra 6 miles done today. We only have a little over 13 to Cuba, New Mexico tomorrow. And, we’re getting a motel room, so a shower and a bed is in order.. I’m excited. And so very thankful that today worked out the way it did, the trail provided, and I don’t have to split up from Pebbles for being too slow.. yet. Ha. Goodnight yall.
