The Unpolished Princess

The cruise boat started moving around 5am this morning.. not that I noticed-I slept right through it all. When we woke up to get ready for the day and have breakfast on board before our first outing, I was impressed with the views out of our big picture window in the room. It was stunning!

We had breakfast while the boat was in motion, and before we were finished, we were already docking. They really have this all down to a science. We met Osama in the lobby at 8am and headed off to Kom Ombo Temple. There’s something about walking up some stairs and then being blindsided by the raw beauty standing in front of you. Pillars and stone built so high, it’s still completely unimaginable that this was created more than 2000 years ago! Just-insane.

The temple was built to honor two gods: the crocodile god, Sobek, and the falcon-headed god, Horus. We learned about Isis, goddess of magic and healing when we went to Philae Temple, Horus is her son. Anywho-since the temple was built for both, it has a double entrance. The scenes carved into the stone were beautiful, and even a little risqué. There is a scene with penises peeing-symbolizing their owners were scared in a battle and wet themselves.. ha. I’m sure I just butchered that story-but either way-they carved a small scene with a couple penises on it and I act like a 12 year old boy and find it funny. Real mature, amiright?

Osama walked us through the crowds and was able to show us so much and explain the scenes laid out in front of us. He pointed out the ways the high priests could sneak through the secret passageways and be the “voice of the gods” by hearing the person’s prayers in one area and sneaking around to be the voice somewhere else entirely, to sometimes deceive people into doing things that benefited the priest. Meh, I’m tired-so I’m not sure if that makes sense. Basically, the priests could be sneaky as hell, even back then.

We saw the scenes including the crocodiles, too. Apparently, someone would pick the “special” crocodile to keep and praise for the crocodile king, feeding it and all that, after sterilizing it. When it died they picked a new one. Crocodiles were mummified and buried with or around important people that passed away, too. Kinda crazy! Imagine walking inside to pray and coming face to face with a croc! Just kidding, they kept them in a special place, and they were all over the Nile River in this area, too.

They would still be all along the river now, too, if they weren’t relocated into Lake Nassar when the high dam was built. Now, it’s thought that more than 80 thousand crocs are in those waters, the lake created from the dam-and you’d never know it by looking at the lake itself-it looked like Lake Tahoe when we saw it yesterday from Abu Simbel. It’s wild out here.

When we left the temple we walked right into the Crocodile Museum. There were tons of mummified crocs on display, along with statues created to honor Sobek, the crocodile king. I really enjoyed this small, one room museum. It was loaded with information and really neat trinkets, carvings, and statues. It also had air conditioning-so a big win there.

We got back to the boat before ten, and hung out in the little bar area watching the river excitement until lunch time. I’m not sure when we started moving again, but it was probably before 11am. We sipped Cokes and waters while watching other boats go by, along the shores of the Nile with their farmlands, cows, and donkeys.

We were all pretty exhausted. It’s been go, go, go this entire trip so far, and very early mornings-which is completely necessary with this heat. We got to talking and decided to ask if we could stay on the boat this afternoon so we could relax and swim at the pool on the top deck-instead of going to see Edfu Temple. It was going to be so hot. Our guides agreed, and so we ended up having the rest of the day free.

We ate lunch and then quickly changed into our bathing suits to lounge around pool. We swam some and laid in the sun-it was a little awkward, because we were docked. One side had the town and the other side had another boat tied to us. We got some stares, from both sides, for sure.

When it got a little too hot and my skin stared getting red, we moseyed inside. We napped and I read some. Just before 5pm I met Terri on the upper deck to watch the sunset. Andrea joined us. Mom kept napping. The rooms are so perfectly cold that it’s hard to get back into the heat after you’re comfortable.

The sunset was phenomenal. The way the orange glow turns to pink and then purple that always makes me smile. It’s hard to be anything but grateful when you’re in that moment. I’m still in awe of everything here. The people, the river, the infrastructure. Old homes right next to even older ancient structures. It’s everything I thought it would be, and then like nothing I could have ever imagined all at the same time.

We had dinner together before heading back to shower and get into bed. I’m really bad about falling asleep the second I lay down these days. With all of the excitement all day long, once my head hits these pillows it’s like the light switch was flipped and I’m comatose before I even realize I closed my eyes. A great sign of another perfect day.

Can every day be my favorite day?

We had a very early morning, waking up at 3:30am to get ready for a 4:10 leave time to go to our hot air balloon! The boat had docked in Luxor last night and we’ll be staying here tonight as well. We were led to a motorboat to cross the Nile and get in a van on the other side to get us to the balloon launching spot.

We got to take this journey with other folks from our boat, 4 of them being American women who booked through the same tour company as we did! They’re from Tennessee and absolutely hysterical. I really enjoyed being around each of them, two sisters and their daughters. The daughters are about the same age as Andrea and I, so it was an easily made friendship. They also found out about this tour company through “word of mouth” in a Facebook group. We took pictures to post to the group at some point, it’s crazy how social media is able to bring complete strangers together.

Anyway, we all watched as the balloons were filled and the baskets were stood up. Mom and I were the last two to get in the basket and then off we went, up into the sky. We got to see the Valley of the Kings and Queens, the farmlands and the desert, the Nile River.. and then the sunrise. Something about hot air balloons and that big ball of fire appearing for the first time in the sky that brings a tear to my eye every single time. It’s just overwhelmingly beautiful. And to be with my favorite people when it happens is the icing on the cake.

As we were landing, some young boys came running to our landing spot on their donkeys. Yes, their donkeys. They galloped across fields and dirt roads to pose with their animals for tips. It’s a pretty sweet gig, because of course we took their pictures and then how on earth could you tell those sweet 7,8,12 year old faces no when they put their hands out for a dollar or two? Don’t get me wrong, their sweet faces got a little too persistent for “more” dollars, but hey-can ya blame them? Also-kudos to them for rushing out each morning before 7am. I don’t think I’d have been that money motivated at their age.

We unloaded from the baskets and then got in the shuttle van to go back to the motorboat to cross the river and get back to our cruise boat for breakfast. Talk about a mouthful and a huge run on sentence. Sorry. My English teacher would be so appalled. Ha-breakfast was great, including fried eggs, fruit and croissants. Plus all the coffee of course.

At 8:30am, we met Osama in the lobby to head out to Karnak Temple. It’s the largest temple complex in the world-a complex because it has so many different temples in it. Many different Pharohs of Egypt added their contributions to it over the years, creating a complex over 200 acres. There is a walkway lined with sphinxes on either side that spans over two miles long to connect Karnak Temples to Luxor Temple, called the Avenue of Sphinxes. The whole complex at one point was fortified with a wall surrounding it.

It was beyond gorgeous, especially some of the many many pillars that still had their vibrant colors visible towards the tops and on the ceiling. It blows my mind that something like this is even possible. We walked through and Osama told us stories about the Pharohs and their statues here. We then got to mosey around on our own, snapping pictures and soaking it all in.

It started getting super hot by 9am. When we got back to the cruise boat, we all were wiped out from the heat. We got to relax awhile, have lunch, nap, have some wine, all before Osama was back to get us at 4:30pm to take us to see Luxor Temple. It was a short car ride to the temple, and on the way we saw a McDonald’s and a bookstore. It’s sort of neat to see American things way the heck over here.

I absolutely LOVED Luxor temple. The sun setting in the background of the temple may have had a huge part in making this one of my favorites. The air was warm, but not unbearable like it gets in the heat of the day. This temple also has the world’s largest open air museum. Pretty impressive stuff. It’s always the massive columns that get me though, I think that’s why I love Greek and Roman history as well. The magnitude of these places and the details of the carved stones is just beyond anything I can imagine being created.

This temple isn’t dedicated to one God-it’s dedicated to the rebirth/rejuvenation of kings and is thought to be the site where the new pharoh had their coronation ceremony. It’s also a burial site for many Pharohs, as well. Ramses II seemed to have his name on practically every temple in Egypt, and this one is no different. There is battle scenes carved here from his victory during the Battle of Kadesh.

One area has Roman scenes painted on the walls, covering the original ancient Egypt carvings.. from when the Roman Christians took over the temple and turned it into a Coptic Church. It’s wild that the colors still show up today.. and that the restoration teams are able to preserve these pieces of history so well. There’s also a birth room, with scenes of the Devine birth of King Amenhotep III.

We walked through and got gorgeous pictures with the night sky coming though the pillars. Then we walked with Osama and took a ride through downtown Luxor in a horse drawn carriage. Andrea and I were in one, Terri and Mom were in the one behind us with Osama sitting upfront with the “driver.” We went through the city streets for over an hour, seeing the lights and the people-the cars and the chaos. It was incredible, being able to see the vehicles and animals wind and curve through each other with such ease-it seemed unorganized-and yet, everyone knew exactly what they were doing. It’s pretty impressive.

We eventually made it back to our river boat. I was completely pooped at this point. So much so that I forgot we still had to eat dinner. I, for maybe the first time since finishing the pacific crest trail, wasn’t hungry a bit. Thankfully, the boat had some pre-dinner entertainment going on as we got on board: a belly dancer and a Turkish dancer. We swayed in our cushy seats and clapped along, all the while I was thinking that I’m getting really damn old-I was sleepy and the music was loud as hell! Haha.. it really creeps in on ya sometimes. Either way, I enjoyed the show the performers put on for us, loud music and all.

By 8p, we headed down for dinner. I still wasn’t actually hungry, but you know I ate it anyway. It was set up buffet style again, and I was able to get some noodles with beef that was fantastic. They also had the great brownies like they had on the fancy dinner night. It was just perfect-and the best thing to help me fall fast asleep about an hour later, the exact moment my head touched the pillow.

Today was action packed for sure-but what better way to see the East bank of Luxor? Ah. It was incredible. Tomorrow, we meet Osama at 7am to go to the West Bank of the city, to the Valley of the Kings. I’m beyond excited! Goodnight!

Yep. Today is my new favorite day! Even in the heat, I absolutely LOVED everything I got to see today! It was stunning! I might be the only one considering it a favorite though.. haha!

We were at breakfast on the boat, bags packed and all, by 6:30. After breakfast, we met Osama and got immediately on a motorboat to cross the Nile River to get to the West Bank. There, our driver met us and started the drive towards the Valley of the Kings. I was giddy from the start, just knowing I was going to be a happy camper today, no matter the weather.

Our first stop was at the Colossi of Memnon.. where two massive statues of Pharoah Agamemnon III stand guarding his mortuary temple. Now, they greet us to the West Bank. When I say they’re massive, we’re talking over 60 feet tall. And as of right now, they’re standing alone, no walls or other parts of the temple close by (they’re still doing restorations in this area), so they feel even larger when you stand next to one and look up.

From there, we headed to the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut. She was one of the greatest Pharohs of Egypt, and the second woman to rule the country alone. During her time as pharoh, there was mostly peacetime, and she was able to establish trade routes and treaties with neighboring nations. In her temple, her statues depict her as a king, with a false beard to show wisdom and muscles to show her strength. Her temple is a masterpiece with three terraces with staircases leading up the middle to each level. Beautiful just doesn’t seem to cut it.

After leaving Hatshepsut, we made our way to the Valley of the Kings-where many of the tombs of the pharaohs are. When I tell you that they’re incredible, I mean it. Words could never do it justice. Each tomb is down in the ground, carved out rooms with colors and carvings all the way from the entrance to the openings that held the sarcophagus and the mummified pharoh. Now, the majority of the mummies found have been moved to a temperature controlled museum in Cairo that we’ll get to visit before we leave Cairo.

The 4 tombs we got to see are those of King Ramses IX, King Ramses I, King Tutankhamen (or just King Tut lol), and King Ramses IV. Only King Tut’s tomb had his mummy in it.. and while his tomb was beautiful to see, I found the others more gorgeous and vibrant than his. His mummy was unbelievable to witness with my own eyes. I can’t believe his body is there, in a glass case, still very much intact, after thousands of years. I can’t even preserve my leftovers. It’s fascinating.

After seeing King Tut, our moms were quite over the entire thing. The heat was oppressive.. like nothing I’ve experienced before-and I was hiking in the deserts of California quite recently. I think that’s the only reason I wasn’t completely losing my mind-because the sweat that started to roll down my body never stopped.. it was a constant stream that was impressive all on its own. We could have bottled it, it was so free flowing. So, for our last tomb, our moms hung out under a fan in the shade, while Andrea and I sauntered through the heat.

I’m so glad I did. King Ramses IV was my favorite tomb. The colors were just magnificent, like they were painted yesterday. The walls were all covered in painted carvings and scenes so beautiful that if my spirit returns one day I might have to go there to find Ramses instead of myself. Ha. The golds and yellows were striking against the reds and blues. So absolutely amazing.

After the excitement and beauty there, I seriously would have went into every single tomb available to me.. even with my river of sweat-but quite literally, everyone else was actually melting. Mom looked close to passing out, Terri was zoned out, too, and Andrea was willing to put up with my shenanigans, but I didn’t want to keep our moms out there any longer or make anyone miserable, it was just too much. While our apps said it was 91 degrees, I sincerely think it was more than that-and humid.. with zero air movement. Stifling is the best way to describe it.. stifling, suffocating, oppressive.. but the skies looked gorgeous 😉

We walked back to the start of the tombs and got on a trolly-all of us trying to sneak some wind flow through our dresses for an ounce of relief. Back in the van, we thanked God for our air conditioner. It took a good 15-25 minutes for all of us to stop panting and to cool off a bit. We were driven back to our boat, the long way.. so no longer having to cross the river on the motorboats. Driving the long way around meant we got to put our luggage in this van and then be taken to our next hotel, Sonesta Luxor Hotel.

I think this may be my favorite hotel yet. We checked into our rooms, then went to lunch at the Italian restaurant on site. The food was great (mushroom risotto, can you believe it?), and Mom got Terri into a laughing fit so hard that we all ended up crying laughing for a solid 10 minutes! I don’t think I’ve laughed that hard in a while.. once we’d slow down, Terri would get going again causing a wave of renewed laughter. Ahhhhh, fantastic times! My face and abs are still sore!

After lunch, we made our way to the pool (after getting into our bathing suits) and swam until nightfall. Andrea and I had wine while swimming, floated and talking with two of the girls we met on the river cruise. There’s nothing like shared experiences to bring you together! Ha! They were miserable in the heat today too.

We ended up eating a light dinner on the terrace, overlooking the Nile River. It was gorgeous, and the heat had died down. Tomorrow we fly out early to Cairo for the day/night to then go to the White and Black Sand Deserts on Saturday. We’ll be with Sherif tomorrow, so we’re all pretty pumped to see him again. I know I am!