The Unpolished Princess

Start: 1651.3

Stop: 1674.2

Today’s miles: 22.9

Total PCT miles: 1526.4

Today was spectacular, and exactly what you’d expect on your first day walking in to Yosemite National Park, our 5th national park so far.. I was in awe all day.

We started hiking and it was a little chilly, but I quickly warmed up. It was a slow and gradual incline to the top of a pass with a beautiful alpine lake named Dorothy Lake. I ended up going the wrong way around the lake and didn’t even realize it until another hiker I had seen earlier started coming back towards me. He showed me on our app how off trail we were, so we walked back together-then skirted the lake and did a little bushwhacking and log crossing together.. instead of walking all the way back to the junction we both apparently missed.

As the trail started climbing up to the pass, around rocks and a tiny bit of snow, the other hiker got ahead of me. Just as I was wondering if Margot went the wrong way, too, or if she went the right way and was now ahead of me, I walked right into her! The other hiker passed her and let her know he and I went the wrong way and I wasn’t far behind, so she waited for me. We sat and had some snacks before moving on.

At the top of Dorothy Lake Pass, the views were simply incredible. Pictures just truly can’t capture that raw natural beauty, but they try. I was giddy and happy the whole day! The descent from the pass was also slow and gradual and easy. There was a ton of water everywhere, more lakes, some squishy areas in a meadow with a stream running beside the trail- and it was every bit as perfect as it sounds. The only thing that could have made it better would have been if my cabin was off to the side and my dogs were running out to greet me.

We stopped to eat lunch together somewhere on that downhill. While we were sitting there, talking and marveling at the beauty of this place, we both started to miss Marquis. I checked to see if I had service, and when I realized I didn’t I was bummed. Then I remembered my Garmin Inreach! I sent him a message telling him we missed him and hoped he was doing well-all while praying he wouldn’t be mad that I was using up his messages.

After lunch, Margot and I got stopped by our very first ranger! He made me show him my permit, which he thoroughly read, and my bear canister, too. Margot showed hers-and the three of us chatted for awhile about the park, the permits, weather, water crossings.. all the things. He was super nice and I was happy about having a kind interaction, so many have mentioned some rangers being kind of snippy and rude after dealing with so many people all the time, and probably not having the correct things.

Just after talking with him, we had a large stream to cross.. it wasn’t too deep, maybe mid calf high, but it was very wide.. so I took my socks and shoes off and walked across in my crocs. Margot opted for barefoot and we sat on the other bank of the stream to let our feet dry. It was starting to get late afternoon and we still had some climbing to do.. I was getting worried we wouldn’t make it to our planned site before dark.

I heard back from Marquis on the Inreach, he was doing well, made it through the Sierra and was now in Kennedy Meadows South, getting ready to start the desert. He said the sierras were cold and difficult but incredible. I’m now even more excited for the Sierra, and missing Marquis that much more. I wish we had caught up to each other!

The next river crossing had a huge log across it. I got to it first, and started across, but half way the limbs sticking up off the tree log started to snag my shorts and I got anxious that I’d fall if I continued, so I slowly backtracked and then took my socks and shoes off again and crossed in the crocs. Margot came through on the log while my feet were drying on the other side. She doesn’t wear loose shorts, so the limbs didn’t snag her as badly as they grabbed at me, and she’s way better balanced in general I think, haha.

After that last shoes off crossing, we started our first of two climbs, each one over a thousand feet of elevation gain in under two miles. It. Was. Tough. The second climb had slick rocks from waterfalls cascading down the trail, making it hard to move quick. On the descent of the second climb, there were tons of loose rocks and we ended up in our headlamps. Damn the sun for setting so early these days! And damn the rocks for slowing us down!

At the bottom of the descent, there was a valley with a fast moving creek running through it. Since it was dark already, we decided not to attempt the next climb to find our intended campsite. We’d only be a little short, and that was fine by me! We looked for campsites on the side of the creek we were on, but couldn’t see much. What I could see was that Margot’s headlamp is a hell of a lot better than mine! I thought I could see fine until she shows up and suddenly I can see another 50 or so feet! It’s nuts!

Not being able to find a suitable campsite on this side of the creek meant a very sketchy rock hop crossing of said creek to the other side to find camping. It was very sketchy, fast moving water with lots of slick rocks. I was able to make it across with dry feet somehow, and just barely.

Margot had to get her feet wet at last minute, with her legs being just a little shy of reaching the second to last rock on the rock hop. Actually “hopping” across rocks is beyond terrifying. This water wasn’t high consequence in the sense that it would sweep you away and you’d drown, but it was scary in a “it’s cold as hell, the water is even colder, and falling onto sharp, slick rocks in ice cold water would be awful” kind of way.

Across the creek, we looked for about 10 minutes for the supposed campsites. Yosemite has some serious camping rules-like you must be 25 feet away from the trail and 100 feet from water and yada yada yada.. welp, we couldn’t find any established sites like our app claimed we would. So, we did our best and found mostly flat spots on sandy gravel type ground. We’re both a little slanted. Oh well.

We set up camp, and just ate our dinner. It’s 9:45 now and the stars are outstanding. I can hear the creek rushing by and our bear canisters are stashed “far away” like they’re supposed to be. I’m a bit cold, so I think it’s bedtime. Goodnight y’all. YAY FOR MAKING IT INTO YOSEMITE!

Start: 1637.1

Stop: 1651.3

Today’s miles: 14.2

Total PCT miles: 1503.5

Sometime before 4am, I actually got cold! I sat up and got the fluffier blanket from the foot of my bed and was out like a light. It was great! I woke up before my 7:15 alarm.. like 6:50 ish maybe, and went to the bathroom.

When I came back, I laid for a few more minutes and then decided I was awake, so I took my medicine and Margot and I went downstairs to the store. We resupplied, she mostly had all she needed from a trail angel, Outdoor Jay that shipped her a full resupply in a bear canister! She just needed a few little things to supplement. He’s pretty incredible to do that. I was also really impressed with the food he found her, too.. especially since she shared some of it with me!

Anyway, we made our purchases and then went to the restaurant for breakfast. We got pancakes, eggs, hashbrowns, bacon, and biscuits and gravy.. and unlimited coffee.. and no berating. It may very well be my favorite breakfast on this whole trail so far. Everything was so flavorful and cooked perfectly, unlike the usual somewhat bland breakfasts we’ve had. We absolutely stuffed ourselves full. AND it was only $20 each for all of that! Crazy!

Afterwards, we packed our bags and sat in the lobby loving on their old pup, Gabby. She was precious, with grey around her sweet eyes. At 10am, a different driver drove 7 of us hikers up to Senora Pass and we began our climb. It was so beautiful up there today, that I’m once again at a loss for words. Steep climbs up to steep mountaintops covered in snow in places, small lakes around, just miles and miles of views in every direction.

When I had service, I FaceTimed my friend, Stacey, so I could see her pretty face and show her these outstanding views. Man I really am missing home and my people, but getting to see Stacey and talk a bit before I lost service helped give me some motivation. She also gave me a pep talk about knowing I’d be able to finish by the deadline I’ve given myself. Hearing her say that only gave me more motivation to make it happen.

We had a few snow crossings that weren’t too bad. And then we came around this corner and I could see a tiny dot going up a near vertical chunk of white snow. I wanted to panic, but Margot kept me in check. When we got close to it, she and I were the only 2 of our group of 7 left. We put on our spikes and she let me go first, so if I slid.. I’d slide back down to her and she’d tell me I was fine.. lol.

It was terrifying. It was steep, and each step felt like it was one ounce of pressure away from sending me back down hill. I kept my eyes directly in front of me. Just step, step, step.. no looking around and scaring the shit out of myself.

When I got to the top, I realized the steps went left, I slowly maneuvered my way that way before seeing that now I was headed in a down slope to the trail. My goodness, it’s just so terrifying. But, I never feared for my life.. I knew if I slipped I’d slide a long way back down, but it didn’t look like I’d be hurt unless I landed too hard or hit a hidden rock or something.

Margot came up after me, looking cool as a cucumber, her steps looking like normal walking steps, not “please don’t slip to my near death” steps like mine. She’s so good on snow. Maybe I’ll feel that way after the Sierra, but I doubt it. I don’t find this high risk business fun.

We had one or maybe two more small patches to cross, we didn’t have to put our spikes back on. Then we started a pretty massive descent. We decided to stop a little early, like 5:30, because it wouldn’t make much of a difference for the next few days either way, and Margot hiked her first day with her bear can, and while taking it like a complete champ, her back was hurting by the end of the day. We had already decided we wanted a shorter day before her back started to make its discomfort known, but I think she was relieved that I was happy to stop, too.

We got to camp and start setting up.. and I kid you not, by 5:45 there were 7 other people that we haven’t seen all damn day also setting up all around us. CliffJumper and Gazelle are 2 of the 7, but I didn’t catch the other’s names. They’re funny and kind and loud. Although, now it’s dark at 8:02 and everyone has pretty much respected the hiker midnight bedtime rule and all is quiet. I bet it won’t be so quiet come 6am. Ugh. I think the Sierras will be pretty crowded this year, too.. with all the flipping around.

Lord help us. Ok, that’s all I got. Time to fall asleep before someone starts snoring and I can hear them over my earplugs. Goodnight!

Start: 1618.6

Stop: 1637.1

Today’s miles: 18.5

Total PCT miles: 1489.3

I slept great again. And I also struggled to get up. Why am I always like this? We managed to get on trail a few minutes after 7am. Good enough, it’s cold!

The trail was again, stunning. This part of the trail is seriously something special, with views that are as gorgeous as they were back in the first few days of Washington. I wish I could describe it better, but the words are eluding me. And pictures really just don’t do it justice.

There were some patches of snow around, I like seeing it from afar, I still don’t like crossing it. Within 3 miles of the road to get down to Kennedy Meadows North, we came across a patch that Margot and I felt more comfortable crossing with our microspikes on. Three other SOBOs that we had passed a little earlier caught up to us, and they put theirs on too. For some reason that was validating for me.

It was sketchy, but short. If you slipped there, it would be down a water shoot into rocks.. so, I definitely wouldn’t die, but I’d more than likely break a bone. Thankfully, the 5 of us all crossed it just fine. They seemed really cool, but they weren’t going into town, so who knows if we’ll cross paths again.

Around that next corner, and at the top of the climb, we ran into a group of 8 trail maintenance workers. We chatted with them a bit, before carrying on downhill the rest of the way to the road. It was such a beautiful descent, with rocks all my favorite colors: purples, pinks, teals.. it was insane. I was super excited and stopping every few minutes. I’ve been collecting and sending some rocks to my friend, Kelsie, and I was happy to grab a few of these pretty colored ones for her. Margot is going to mail them for me when she gets into Yosemite Valley.

All of these rock colors has me missing Marquis. He’s ahead in the Sierra, not sure where, but either way, I wish he was here telling me why these rocks are the colors that they are. I get it’s probably “just different minerals” or something simple, but his excitement over explaining it is a joy to watch. I hope he’s doing well. Surely his legs aren’t hurting anymore, or at least not like they were.. so, I’m happy for him all the same.

We made it to the road at Senora Pass and didn’t have service to call the place we’re staying at to ask for a ride. We waited awhile, trying to hitch, but the two cars that passed, well-passed. I messaged mom on my Garmin Inreach and asked her if she’d call the number to Kennedy Meadows and ask them about a ride. We waited. No response. We waited. No cars. I messaged her again, thinking maybe she was already asleep. Still no response. Yikes.

Then, a lady passes us, but then stops, puts her car in reverse, and comes back for us! I quickly message mom and again telling her to abort calling them.. I still didn’t have a response from her, so I assumed she hadn’t seen my messages. Good thing, we have a ride now!

Rhonda is recently widowed, and on her way back from visiting her son in Utah. She was only an hour from home, and squeezed us in her pretty Camery. We talked the whole way down to Kennedy Meadows North, a pack ranch and campground with cabins, yurts, a general store and restaurant, plus rooms with single beds in above the restaurant for hikers to rent.

Rhonda let us out and made sure we were ok before leaving. My goodness she is the kindest soul. We went inside and got beds in the female dorm, I was so happy to learn they weren’t bunk beds. We picked our beds and got connected to WiFi. I talked to mom and found out that she did call, the man was on the way to get us, and her responses weren’t coming through on my inreach. She had tried calling back to say never mind, but the phone just rang and rang. Uh oh.
Margot got her stuff that was shipped to her, and I told the lady helping her about the miscommunication, in case she can radio the guy or something to tell him we aren’t there. She seemed pissed. We all still heard the phone ringing.. so. Anyway. I apologize profusely and tell her I’m more than happy to still pay him when he does return.

We then went across to the restaurant, and then waited for almost 35 minutes before getting a menu. They were overwhelmed with people! But, it wasn’t a big deal, they gave us sodas while we waited.. we were just hungry. During this waiting time, a man appeared at our table, beer on his breath, and he absolutely berated us for pulling him out of his dinner to come get us and then not even be there. I attempted to be calm, apologetic, and polite and explain to him that we didn’t think my mom was getting the garmin messages, since I got no response from her and I always do..

He did not care. He insulted us for being grown adults and needing “Mommy” to get our ride instead of calling ourselves. I again attempted to explain I didn’t have cell service, hence messaging someone responsible to call for us-and thinking the messages either weren’t going through or weren’t being received. Even Margot attempted to explain and help me apologize for the mishap.

He was so flipping rude, even after admitting he picked up another hiker while he was up there, a solo female hiker.. WHO WOULDNT HAVE OTHERWISE GOTTEN A RIDE.. but that didn’t matter.. he was irate. He made some comment, and went to storm off, and I may have yelled after him, “yeah, go have another.” I don’t know what the hell is happening with me and restaurants lately.. but my God it’s been ridiculous. Shit happens. He has to realized that, especially living somewhere with no freaking phone service! I’m still a bit pissed myself.

Anyway. The waitresses were incredibly kind. I’m sure they witnessed it all, but pretended not to. We finally placed our order: soup, salad, NY strip steak with a baked potato and zucchini. It was phenomenal. The steak was cooked just right. And then, to top it off, it came with desert! Peach cobbler, no less. It wasn’t Uncle Keith’s, but it was still pretty delicious.

We finished up and headed out back to the laundry and shower house. After quick showers we went upstairs and got in bed. It was already after 8pm and I was pooped. All this fussing was attempting to ruin the absolute otherwise perfection of the day. Our dorm room had Strider, who we all know we’ve met before, but we aren’t sure where. It isn’t the same strider that also fell down Cutthroat Pass the day I did. And then there was ChickenDinner: the girl ol cranky pants picked up instead of us.. I can’t see how that’s a bad thing, seeing how she got here and they got her money by having her stay..

Anyway, the 4 of us chatted a little and then all went to bed pretty quickly. I’m writing this the day after, because the plugs to charge my phone were no where near my bed, and I didn’t want to keep anyone awake longer than necessary. So, I can say, it took forever to fall asleep, but when I did, it was comfortable. No complaints there! Which may be a first when sharing a room with 3 other women. Ha!