The Unpolished Princess

Start: 1536

Stop: 1561.8

Today’s miles: 25.8

Total PCT miles: 1414

I couldnt sleep for the life of me last night. And it wasn’t because of bears, either. My right hip started hurting and just would not let up, no matter which way I turned. It sucked.

Around 5:30, Margot did hear a bear though. I didn’t, and kept trying to sleep until 6, when I relented and started packing. We were hiking by 6:30 and I was hurting. My right hip didn’t feel right, although my pack finally felt manageable with only todays food in it.

The trail was stunning as we hiked into Desolation Wilderness, an area known for its lakes and views. We had a pretty hefty climb up to Dick’s Pass, but we passed by so many little creeks on the way, and then were gobsmacked when we first came across Fontanillis Lake. It was just so pristine! The water was beyond clear, the mountains jutting up around it felt completely unreal.

We kept moving, knowing we had to get to Echo Chalet before nightfall, so we could hope for a ride into South Lake Tahoe tonight, where Margot had already booked us a room. It got pretty hot, and the trail was exposed, going around these beautiful mountains. I started to have some tummy issues early on in the day, and they definitely did not improve as I walked. In total I dug 5 catholes.. in very open areas because when you have to poop, you have to poop. I couldn’t exactly wait for a forest to appear.

That being said, as absolutely beautiful as today was, I was grouchy. My stomach hurt, constantly sounding like cartoon lava, my hip hurt, making me limp some, I was hot.. it just wasn’t fair. I tried so hard to just love the moment, but besides what I could actually see, I was miserable.

As the day progressed, we only passed more and more beautiful lakes. Margot stopped to swim in one, because OF COURSE you should-but y’all, TMI but here we are: my butt was too raw for me to want to get in water and then hike 7 more miles. I was so jealous of how much she was enjoying the water, and I don’t blame her for a second for soaking up every bit she could. I almost just went for it anyway, but with the bubbles my stomach was roiling with-I didn’t want to take the chance.

So, after hanging out with her while she swam awhile, I carried on. I was moving so slow anyway, I knew she’d catch me after she had time to dry out a bit and start hiking again. The descent from Aloha Lake where she swam down to Echo Lakes was a rough one. It was very rock filled, almost like trying to walk through a dump truck of gravel-just sometimes the rocks were the size of small dogs.

Eventually I made it to an area with a phone and a water taxi sign. No one answered the phone, and I’m here to tell you, if they did-I would have 100% rode in a boat to the Chalet instead of walking the last 2.6 miles to get there. When Margot caught up to me, she agreed she’d take the taxi, too. Alas, we had to walk.

It ended up being fine, the trail was gorgeous and Echo lake is apparently a pretty popular place to own property. I didn’t realize it was a lake people lived on. I got great service a mile from the Chalet, so I messaged a few friends, chatted with my buddy Brittany-who lifted my spirits tremendously.

When we made it to the Chalet (a general store basically for the lake, and the parking lot for the people who live and play on the lake too), it was just after 7:30 and already getting dark. We knew our hitch hiking chances were getting slimmer by the second. We looked for the numbers for trail angels, found 2-but no dice. Margot tried Uber. A lady paddle boarding said if we were still here when she got back, she’d take us-but she was just getting started and “would be awhile” because of the super moon.

I tried Lyft and after 20 or so minutes, I got our ride accepted, but the time for pick up just kept getting longer, so it wasn’t looking too good. Another hiker appeared, CliffJumper from the Netherlands, and asked if he could catch the same ride we get if it worked out. We said of course and we all sat around in the dark, getting cold, waiting for either my Lyft lady to appear or the paddle board lady to come back.

I was getting hangry, my stomach finally agreeing it was done being a brat and wanted some food now. Cool. Our Lyft lady ended up getting to us first. She was so nice and even dropped off CliffJumper at a trail angel’s house on the way to our motel. Once at the motel, now 9:30, we were exhausted, but the room was gorgeous! I ordered us McDonald’s (the fastest option) on DoorDash, Margot showered.

The food came before I could shower, so I ate and then showered, finally getting into the cushy bed by 10:30. Y’all. I am Worn. Out. I told Margot I’d be ok with taking a zero day tomorrow if she was. My hip really hurts. So we’ll see if this room is available in the morning. Sweet dreams.

Start: 1513.2

Stop: 1536

Today’s miles: 22.8

Total PCT miles: 1388.2

I woke up to a gorgeous sunrise, just like we planned, the only difference is, I got to wake up to it a few times, because I kept pressing snooze. Ha. It was so beautiful, and the wind kept me bundled up tight until my bladder forced me up. Margot slept in some too, and we didn’t get started hiking until sometime around 7:30.

It was cold this morning, numb fingers for the first mile or so.. and collecting snowmelt water didn’t really help any. It was nice to be a bit cold though, making me move a little faster to warm myself up. There was also a climb to start the day, to the tops of the ski resort ski lifts. Lake Tahoe was off in the distance, that same dark blue water like Crater Lake looking like a mirage in the distance.

We had more climbing after the initial up and down, and it was all exposed ridges with strong winds. It felt like it was going to topple me over at times, like a turtle wobbling in its shell. It was so beautiful that I didn’t care though. Margot stopped to eat her lunch before me, but I’ve already eaten all my candy and good snacks, so I was afraid if I ate too early I’d be hungry before getting to camp.

So, I pushed on. I went about another hour before sitting in the shade of a tree and out of the wind to eat my food. I’ve been listening to “The Winners” which is apparently the 3rd book in a series, but I didn’t realize that, and the book was just as incredible without reading the first two. I highly recommend it. So, I ate and listened to my book, then got back to walking.. tearing up towards the end of the book, and very happy no one witnessed it.

We’ve been leapfrogging a group of 4 or 6 hikers for the last couple days. It seems like every few hours we’re crossing paths again. When we were leaving Old Station we rarely saw anyone, now there’s always someone, and I think it’ll only get busier. We’re merged with the Tahoe Rim Trail right now, and in a coupe days more we’ll merge with the John Muir trail, arguably one of the busiest trails in the US, if not the busiest. Hard to state facts out here when I don’t have the service to verify it. Hopefully I proof read this and do just that, haha. (I’m proof reading, but not fact checking, too tired 😉 )

Anyway, the last 3 miles or so were mosquito hell, but as the sun got lower and the temperatures got cooler, they’ve mostly disappeared. I know they’ll be back though, the bastards. We set up camp a mile away from the Desolation Wilderness border, because Margot doesn’t have her bear canister yet, and you can’t camp overnight in that area without one. So, tomorrow we’ll hike the whole way to Echo Lake and then hitch into South Lake Tahoe.

Tonight, we may get a visit from a bear in the area that everyone on our app says is aggressive and “very hungry.” Whatever that means. It hasn’t attacked anyone, but it clearly doesn’t scare off easy. So, fingers crossed it doesn’t come to visit us, and picks one of the many other camps nearby to say hi to in the middle of the night.

Even still, I plan to have my earplugs in and stay oblivious.. hopefully it doesn’t try to join me inside my tent. Goodnight y’all.

Start: 1487.1

Stop: 1513.2

Today’s miles: 26.1

Total PCT miles: 1365.4

I woke up today determined to not let myself be as negative as I was yesterday. And while I was frustrated with my new perceived weakness over toting this stupid bear can, and my entire body ached from the extra weight, I managed to enjoy most of today.

We didn’t leave camp until close to 7, and I didn’t get to camp until just a minute or two after 8pm, but I didn’t have to hike in my headlamp, or set up my tent with it on (mostly because of the moon, but still), so overall I’m counting today as a victory. Just a very painful one.

The trail was so beautiful, big rocky, open vistas where you could see the trail winding around the mountaintops and between the valleys. There was so much up and down, and a lot of people too. The trail crossed through tunnels underneath interstate 80, which was a little crazy.

Just before going down to the tunnels, Margot and I ate lunch in the shade and then walked the short trail to the highway rest stop at Donner Pass. There was running water and flushing toilets, which I took full advantage of, and even washed my face after scrubbing my hands. The only downside: no vending machines. I think a soda would have perked me up big time today.

After crossing under the highway and over a road leading to the Donner Pass area (also no vending), we climbed and climbed. It was so gorgeous, but the wind was wild. A few times I’d somehow smack my feet into each other when I’d go to lift one up, almost like how it feels in fast moving water.

During that climb, no lie, 8 people passed me. I started to feel so defeated. Like how can one 3 pound bear canister slow me down so much? It’s ridiculous. Although, I do think part of it is its size and shape.. it’s causing me to completely pack my backpack differently and it throws off the weight distribution. At least that’s what I’m telling myself.

I watched the colors change in the sky with the moon popping out and little glimpses of Lake Tahoe showing up dark dark blue against the pink and purple surrounding it, as I made the final ascent to our planned camp spot. Margot had already cleared me a spot for my tent and was setting hers up when I arrived. There are plenty of other hikers nearby. And the wind is still a little nuts, but the sunrise view in the morning is supposed to be spectacular. I hope so, because I’m sleeping with my vestibules open for that reason.

I’m sure there’s more to say but I’m just too drained, so it’s time to bundle up and get some sleep. I really hope it’s restful sleep tonight. Sweet dreams.