The Unpolished Princess

Start: The Maine Roadhouse Hostel (AT mi 2004.9). Stop: Bigelow Col Campsite (AT mi 2012.9). Today’s miles: 8 miles. Total AT mileage: 988.2 miles

I slept so incredibly well. The mattress on the bed I slept on was phenomenal. I should have looked at it now that I think about it. I may just have to call Jen and find out what brand it is. Anywho, I got up at 6:45 and used the bathroom before heading downstairs to breakfast.

It was a feast! Eggs, bacon, toast, fresh fruit, pancakes, and hash browns. I’m shocked I’ve lost any weight with the way these ladies at the last two hostels have fed me! Man, it’s been good. After breakfast I paid Jen for my stay and my resupply, then headed upstairs to pack. Since they have to take several trips to the trailhead because of all the hikers, I took my time. I wasn’t ready to go either way.. those pj pants almost had me tell them I wanted to zero.. I came sooooo close!

I packed, but before I changed or stripped the bed, I laid back down to work on yesterday’s blog. Why rush? Lol.. I loved every second spent horizontal! When I finally couldn’t justify laying around any more, I stripped the bed and changed my clothes. Ugh. It was so sad.

Downstairs, while waiting for others to get ready for the shuttle, I got my picture taken for their hostel wall. They just opened this season and they are doing so incredibly well. I’m excited I got to be on their wall.. and I saw SO MANY of my friends on there too! Sauce & FarOut, Lilo, Killer, Wizard, TBird, TownLegs, DoubleDecker, Smiles, Flamingo, Lost&Found, Spring, Trippin.. omg. So. Many. Friends.

Once we got a group ready, we went to the trailhead. Flow is a SOBO hiker I met last night, he’s an ER nurse, so we talked shop a bit. I don’t miss work, but I do miss the people I work with.. he was telling me with covid getting worse again, he may come off trail to do a crisis contract. I did enough of that last year and the first few months of this year. If covid somehow stops my trail, I’m sitting my butt on my couch for the rest of this year regardless.

He and another SOBO hiker set out southbound and Luau, Proton and I started north. I was technically in the lead while they stretched and got ready.. they both passed me within the first hour, Proton within like 15 minutes.. haha, the kid is quick.

It was super muggy today. I hit the trail by 9:30 and was completely soaked through like I jumped in a lake (just way less refreshing) by 10. I ended up chugging 2 liters of water before 11 and refilling both bottles. And we were just climbing to a peak with no name. Cool. It was close to 4 miles uphill to get to this viewpoint, which I actually took the side trail to. Then, a mile or so later I came to the junction that had the shelter down one path and a pond down the other. I chose the pond route for my lunch.

Once down there, Scout, Spaceman, and NoRush were there doing the same thing. Everyone had taken off the super wet with sweat clothes to let them dry out some while eating lunch. I did the same, I also got into the pond (the water looked clear) and used a bandana to splash myself and cool off a bit while my shorts and shirt air dried. I sat on a rock and ate leftover pizza from yesterday while chatting with everyone. It was a glorious lunch. And beautiful day. Hot, but better now.

Originally, my goal was to only get to this pond/shelter for the night. But, after spending an hour there, even after the others left, I decided I had it in me to hike on. They were all going at least another 10, I was considering doing 3.. and if that went by fast-maybe 6 total.. but I was 100% not aiming for the 10. It was already 2pm and that would get me coming in to a full shelter and trying to set up my tent late. No thank you.

So. From there, I had to go up and over the horn (another horn, you’d think they’d give it a different name). It was another steep climb, but not really technical at all. It was just so humid again. On the way up Bigelow West Peak, I could sense that rain was coming. Something about it suddenly feeling that much muggier and clouds rolling by that you just know the sky will break soon. I decided to pick up my pace and huff it out so I could get over the peak before the rain hit.. initially concerned only with slick rocks on the downside.

I was literally 0.2 miles from the exposed rock summit when I heard a crackle of thunder and saw the flash of lightening. I stop dead in my tracks and hunched down in the middle of the trail. Then, immediately as my knees bent to hunch, the sky dropped buckets on me. I turned and headed as quick as my feet would carry me back down to bigger tree coverage. I was literally at the sign saying to stay on trail and not trample the fragile alpine flowers when all this happened.. aka: right in the danger zone.

I was standing off trail amongst the bigger trees when I see the water turn the trail in front of me into a river. About 10 minutes later, as quickly as it came, it just stopped. And the sun was shining. I came out of hiding and started back up, cautiously. I made it just a bit further than before, right by a high rock cairn, when just ahead two lightening bolts cracked across the sky at the same time. The thunder came before I could get the one out for one Mississippi. I turned around and sat in the trail, as it felt like the lowest point I could get to in that second. I waited a minute, and then took my pack off, set it and my poles beside the cairn-covered them with the rain cover, and darted back down trail to the safety of those bigger trees.

I had my phone with me, TownLegs had messaged me checking in on my lovely detergent rash. I chatted with her a while and she unknowingly calmed me a bit and confirmed I made the right choice to wait out the storm where I was. I then called and talked to my mom for awhile. When ya got service, you take advantage.. even in a thunderstorm apparently.

I waited there for almost a full hour before creeping slowly back to my pack. The weather app said more storms will come later, but there will be an hour or so lull in between. But to be mindful of wind gusts up to 50 miles per hour. Hmmmm. So, at 5:45pm I treaded lightly to my pack, put it on.. stared a bit, then made a dash for it. I was 0.1 miles from the rock summit here, and only 0.4 miles from the campsite between the 2 Bigelow Mountain peaks.

Between where I was standing and the summit, the wind was coming in huge waves attempting to blow me off. I almost lost my rain cover, I snatched it as it went to go flying.. as I tucked it into my waist belt, I realized during it’s almost departure off West Bigelow, one of my empty 1L smart water bottles was blown off into the abyss. I stopped and tried finding it, but it was a lost cause.. it could be in Canada by now lol

I strapped the only other water bottle I have in a little tighter, then carried on.. quickly as possible while crouching low to not get blown off myself. I snapped a quick picture of the summit sign then darted down the trail to the tree line. Apparently I am capable of moving quicker than I thought on wet slippery surfaces. Who knew? Lol I let TownLegs and my mom know I made it safely to the other side and to camp.

I found a flat spot for my tent back behind a caretakers building that’s all boarded and locked up. Technically im supposed to be set up on a tent platform, but with the storms coming through tonight, I decided I’d risk a magical person appearing to make me move in order to have my tension on the tent safely staked down.
I then made the trek to get water, with my one water bottle.. lol. It was uphill on trail 0.2 from where I set up camp. It’s annoying to know I’ll have to do that same uphill tomorrow morning, and it’s a lot of boulder scrambling, too. Lovely.

Once I got back, I filtered my water and took my food down to a tent platform to sit and eat my food a little more comfortably than on the wet ground or in my tent. While in the process of making that move, a man showed up. I showed him where the tent platforms were and we chatted while I ate and he set up. He was coming up the other Bigelow when the storm hit, just father down.. haha. How fun has today been?

Now I’m all set up in my tent, he’s just down the way a bit and we’re the only ones here between the Bigelows listening to the rain and wind whip through here like we’re teenagers in trouble. The tent is holding up steady and I’m nice and warm. I was so hot earlier today, and then after getting soaked through with the rain, I got chilly. Now there’s a chill in the air with the wind.. which is all perfect for me because I sleep better when it’s just a little cool.

Speaking of, that’s exactly what I plan to do now.. goodnight y’all.

Start: Bigelow Col Campsite (AT mi 2012.9). Stop: Flagstaff Campsite (AT mi 2022.8). Today’s miles: 9.9 miles. Total AT mileage: 998.1 miles

Today was, in a word: incredible. And it being my 100th day on trail makes it all the sweeter. The wind whipped all night, but it only lightly sprinkled until about 10pm. With all the wind, the outside of the tent was dry by the time I woke up.. which wasn’t until a little after 7:30am. It still felt cool outside of my sleeping quilt, so I stayed put until I was sure the sun was up and going to be beaming on me. My clothes were still soaked, and the thing about having one pair of shorts and one sports bra: if they’re wet, you’re wet, too.

I got out to pee, then got back in to eat breakfast in my cocoon. Then slowly packed everything I could before having to take off my camp clothes and get into the wet ones. I’ve decided I don’t like my short sleeved shirt. It bunches under my arms and annoys me throughout the day. So, I did wear my long sleeves, but everything else was the wet stuff from yesterday.. including my socks. I have a few more days before town, so no point in making both pair of socks wet.. yet.

I finally left camp at 8:35, and moved slowly up to the peak of Bigelow Avery Peak. It felt like an incredibly short climb, and I had to remind myself that it was only this easy and short because I slept in between the two peaks. When I got to the top, it was stunning views all around. Ski mountains one way. The mountains I had crossed another way, and lakes upon lakes the other way. 360 degrees of gorgeous no matter which way I turned my head. It was so pretty, in fact, when I realized I had service I sat on a rock wall and worked on uploading yesterday’s blog.

When I posted it and soaked up a bit more views, I forced myself to get my pack on and continue walking. I now had a decent descent to maneuver, and then climb up and over Little Bigelow Mountain.. which in comparison looked small but wide on the elevation map. I had started this day 3 miles ahead of my initial plan anyway, so I really had no actual goal in mind for where to stop. I could go 8 miles total and get a bunk at a hostel in town, I could go almost 10 to a lake, 15 to a shelter.. today’s options were endless. I decided I’d just see how I felt when I got somewhere. But one thing was certain, I had to get off this mountain.

I started the downhill and it had moments of slick, hold onto the trees to not slide down a rock face, brace for dear life.. but they were short sections surrounded by beautiful, thick wooded forest with huge moss covered rock boulders. It was serene.. and for a Friday, I really didn’t pass or get passed by many people. At some point mid morning I started listening to an audiobook. I’m enjoying it.

On the uphill of Little Bigelow, I decided the second I found a semi decent rock or stump or fallen tree log, I’d stop for lunch. I was maybe 0.1 from the summit when it came, and I didn’t even care to wait to see the summit sign first. I stopped and ate my peanut butter tortilla.. it gave me a little heartburn, but not as bad as in the beginning.. so maybe the weight loss is helping me in that department.

After lunch I continued on, at a “can’t be bothered” pace, listening to my book. I snapped pictures when the views came, I meandered, I enjoyed. At some point at a shelter, the one everyone stopped at yesterday except me, I got water from a fresh spring that was super cold and even more refreshing. It’s a little annoying to only have one bottle.. I chug and then have to filter again instead of having one filtering while I’m catching up on my water intake. Even so, I took my shoes off and sat a while, aired out my toes from my wet and very disgusting socks.

Once I crossed the road that the hostel picks up at, I saw that I didn’t have service. That makes that choice an easy one.. plus I really don’t need another town stay at this point. All I’d want to do is get another water bottle and wash my socks.. haha. I just kept walking. I came across the “pond” that looks as big as a lake. The water is crystal clear and so gorgeous. There was a sandy beach, but I continued on the trail, excitement brewing.. I decided after seeing that water that I’d go to the campsite listed on my app, find a tent spot, and go for a swim!

Which is exactly what ended up happening. I walked around the pond on trail for maybe half a mile before I came across some tent sites. Dirt pads down in the woods. I continued, just in case something else was better up ahead-but then ran into a couple tenting.. so I turned back, wanting to make sure I got my spot early, especially on a Friday afternoon. It was 4:30 when I found my spot. It was down a hill a bit more than the original I saw, slightly out of view from the passerby’s on trail, more flat, and closer to the water. After I set up the tent, I walked down to the water with my camp clothes, food, and water bottle in hand.

I had an entire beach to myself! It was absolutely beautiful! I laid out my shorts and long sleeve hiking shirt to air dry, then promptly got in the water. I was nervous about leeches, but this water is super clear so I decided it was a small risk. I had my lighter in my food bag if it came down to that. Another hiker told me that you hold a flame to the leech it releases itself. I swam, floated, and washed my body. It felt so freeing! Then, I sat out on a big rock on shore to dry.

When I started getting hot, I took off my undies and bra (to lay them out to air dry) and got into my camp clothes. I continued listening to my audiobook, gazing off along the waters, watching birds fly and ducks squawk. I cooked and ate my dinner sitting on a piece of what appears to be driftwood. Once done, I went back to camp to throw my bear line, seeing how I’m the only one nearby and there’s water so close.. and unpacked the rest of my gear so when I come back for bed, it’s all set and ready to go.

I brought my headlamp with me and decided that I’d sit on the beach and watch the sunset. It’s already darker back at the tent than it is down here, but I don’t want to leave this serenity just yet. Even if I am tired. So, I’ll sit here a while longer, listen to my audiobook, then gather up my clothes and go to bed. Today has been just one of the best of days. The terrain looks pretty smooth sailing from here, too. A couple minor blips on the elevation profile, but nothing major.

I hope y’all have a Goodnight, and the sweetest of dreams.

Start: Flagstaff Campsite (AT mi 2022.8). Stop: Stealth Site near Harrison’s (AT mi 2038.2). Today’s miles: 15.4 miles. Total AT mileage: 1013.5 miles

I’ve hiked over 1000 miles! It’s so thrilling to know I’ve accomplished that, but clearly it wasn’t on my mind this morning, because I forgot to make a twig 1k sign to take a picture of. Whoops. I’m almost to the halfway point in my journey.. I’ll end up crossing that some time after I return to trail from my side trip with my mom. The whole trail is 2,193 miles, so the halfway mark is 1096.5 miles.. 83.5 miles from where I’m currently sitting.

I thought it was going to rain overnight. When I woke up to a dry tent at 6:35, I went ahead and got a move on.. remembering the last time I was surprised it didn’t rain and took my sweet time getting ready-only to get poured on. Sometime after 8pm, two more groups of hikers came through. One pair camped just above me, the others camped down on the beach itself. I’m glad I got my fill of the water before those folks showed up.

I started hiking by 7:30, happy it wasn’t raining and the terrain was calm around the pond. The elevation had the two little blips to do first thing this morning, but I honestly hardly even noticed them. By the time I thought I might need a pause to catch my breath it was already going back downhill. Shortly before 8am, the sky fell. I was happy I already had my rain cover on my pack. I pulled out my umbrella and tucked away one of my trekking poles. No need for both on such easy ground.

It continued to rain most of the morning. Sometime just before 12, I decided I wanted to eat lunch and kept my eyes peeled on somewhere suitable. The rain took a break, and therefore, so did I. To my complete happiness, I did so on a small beach. I took my socks and shoes off, soaked my feet for a few minutes, then at my lunch sitting on a piece of drift wood. While eating, I saw the wind bringing the rain across the water towards me, so I popped up, rolled my pack over so it was protected by the cover, and snagged my umbrella. I ate the rest of my food sitting under it without a care in the world.

I waited for the rain to slow before getting up and repacking. I felt so good on this terrain that I decided to hike from here in my sandals.. just to try it out for a bit. It worked well for about 2 hours, then the trail started to have some rocks to step over and on, so I traded my sandals back for my socks and shoes. The wet trail made my feet slide too much in the sandals and I didnt want to risk a fall into mud.

The rest of the day went by quickly. I was irritated with myself because with less than a mile to go to the shelter I was aiming for, I had to take my pack off and go dig a hole. I guess I’m still living up to the trail name, PBS. Even still, with the shoe swaps and long lunch, plus the hole digging, I still made it to camp by 3pm. There’s a man that has a hunting camp close by and he sells breakfast to hikers, you just have to come make a reservation the evening before so he can make sure to have enough food. He also apparently rents out cabins to hikers when he has availability. I knew it was a long shot, but I toted my pack with me to his place, just in case.

It was close by, maybe 0.3 miles total. And the trail to get to him had gorgeous lake views one way, stream views continuously, and then a waterfall, too. It was stunning. I got there and Tim, the owner let me reserve a spot for breakfast, but told me his cabins were sadly full. He offered me some lemonade and I happily obliged. Sitting on his porch, rocking, and watching hummingbirds come to his feeders on his deck with the creek passing by down below was the highlight of my day. His dog, Charlie was a cute and loving addition, too!

His nephew’s wife brought me a white claw to drink (she laughed and said, “this is me offering trail magic” lol) and we chatted awhile. Her and her family are visiting Uncle Tim like they do every summer. She’s an ER nurse so we had tons to talk about. It was getting close to 4:30 and I made the comment that I needed to go try to find me a spot for my tent at the shelter, and she and Tim told me of a great stealth spot just on the other side of the bridge.. the way I’d have to walk back to the camp in the morning for breakfast either way. I graciously thanked them and headed off to snag it before anyone else did.

The spot is perfect. It’s nestled in the woods next to the creek, and just at the fork of the AT and the bridge to get back to Harrison’s camp in the morning. My plan is to pack up, leave my pack sitting at the fork behind a tree, and pick it back up on my way out. What perfection!

I set my tent up, then I went to the waterfall area and washed off in the rock pools just before the water went over the edge. Then changed clothes and hung wet ones to dry. I ate my dinner and prepped my camp for my return. Then, completely unlike me, I got my headlamp and phone and walked back to the hunting camp.

Everyone was sitting around watching the hummingbirds. They are magnificent little creatures. They remind me of fairies. While sitting around and talking, they told me of a side trail by my camp to walk to the big pond to watch the sunset. So that’s where I am now.. sitting on the shore watching the sun go down, basking in its warmth. I’ve had a wonderful last few days, and I wouldn’t trade them for anything.

Tomorrow, I have to be at breakfast by 7am, and then just under 4 miles from here is a where the Appalachian trail crosses the Kennebec River, the only river the AT doesn’t have a bridge to cross and can often be too unsafe to fjord. To remedy this, the AT pays someone to shuttle hikers across the river by canoe, and the canoe has a white blaze on it.. so it’s the official route of the trail. The canoe person doesn’t started until 9am.. so I can take my time eating breakfast before heading that way.

That’s all I have for you today. Hopefully I’ll have some decent service soon. I had none today to attempt to upload yesterday’s blog. I’m getting into more remote areas of Maine, so the daily posting may be a thing of the past for a little while. Lol don’t be too sad 😉 love y’all! Goodnight! I’ll just be over here dreaming about “patriotic pancakes.”